Re: Re: Building tips
 

In a previous UCD post, rumor had it that GP had shipped some models with and without required firewall thrust angle. I also thought I heard some one else say that they had a UCD that actually had LEFT thrust angle built in. Well,... mine is an example of just that. Study the picture below. Looking at the picture, notice the gap along the front right fuselage edge and the inside transition of the T-square. The vertical edge of the T-square touches the fuselage further down the fuselage, indicating left thrust. I still need to add 3 washers most likely in order to get the required right thrust. After reviewing some video of me flying last month, I heard myself say a few times "Geee, see how it pulls to the left when I gun it!". That got me thinking. :D

U Can Do 3D
 

The biggest tip I have is don't expect to complete it in 6 to 8 hours.

Maybe I am just slow.

My kit looked good. Pelininary visuals appeared that the engine had up thrust but my little carpenters level showed that I was in error. Lets see how it turns out!

Allie33

U Can Do 3D
 

I AGREE ON THE TIME OF ASSEMBLY COMMENT. BY THE TIME I FINISHED CHANGING OUT TO 4-40 LINKAGES AND DEVIATING IN OTHER MINOR WAYS FROM THE CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE, IT TOOK ME ABOUT TWO 6-8 HOUR SESSIONS TO BE READY TO FLY.

MT

U Can Do 3D
 

I would second that. I must have spent a similar length of time with the 4-40 conversion, Dubro pinned hinges, Sullivan tail wheel, triangular balsa stock around the landing gear area, fiberglass around F1. If you decide to use a Sullivan tail wheel don't forget to put an extra hinge at the bottom of the rudder

U Can Do 3D
 

I'm going to go with CA hinges, but I'm going to make the rudder hinges bigger than what the kit indicates. There is enough hinge material left over to make much bigger hinges. I've always had good luck with CA hinges in the past so I have no reason to believe I won't this time. I'll just keep my eye on them closely.

CA Hinges
 

I have not had any problems with CA hinges todate either. There are however one or two earlier posts on this thread where the hinges have failed. There is another thread where it is recommended to use a wax crayon, and draw a line where the material is going to 'hinge'. This will stop CA going into the hinge area. It maybe that 'failed' hinges mentioned earlier were as a result of surface flutter. I just don't want to take a chance :)

U Can Do 3D
 

I've run into another potential snag. I bought some Dubro dafety lock clevis for the control horn end of my linkages and some Dubro Ball links for the servo end. When I got home I realize that only 1 end of my sullivan 4-40 pushrods were threaded. Both the clevis and ball link are self tapping.

What should I do. Just go with metal soldered clevises on the horn end, or would it be better to cut the rod to length and use a threaded brass coupler? I really like the safety lock clevises and hate to give them up, but at the same time I wonder about using brass couplers. The only time I ever used them was on a throttle control.

I guess I do have one other option. My dad has a set of tap and dies, but to be honest I'm not sure if it would have a 4-40 die. Would I be able to just cut the wires to length and then use the die to thread the ends? Is there any issues with threading sullivan 4-40 rods?

U Can Do 3D
 

You can also take some clear monokote, ultracote (preferred over monokote due to the lower temp), or even clear packing tape to seal the hingeline. I am using the CA hinges, but have sealed everything with clear monokote (neighbor had some, if I were to do it again, I'd get the ultracote).

I maidened mine today, and all I can say is WOW, WOW, and WOW!!!!!!! My 80 four stroke is going to find a home on something else. It has over 1/1 power to weight, but just not enough for me to be comfortable. I have a 91 2 stroke on the way.
I need to add alot more right thrust, I think mine was one of the ones that shipped with left thrust. I may add a degree of downthrust as well. I think I am still a bid noseheavy (I estimate I'm at 5 1/2" right now.


The rudder on this thing is amazing. I think this plane will do a double hammerhead from hover to hover, with enough engine on it (Hope to find that out next weekend).

After flying it today, I am convinced the CanUDo3d is a dehydrated Dioblotin XL. It's just a shrunken version. They fly so similar, and so slow and manuverable. I would highly recommend this plane to anyone.

Here are a couple of pics from the field after the maiden.


GOT THROW?????

Steve

Waterfalled on the First flight
 

Did it ever waterfall, even without flaperons turned on. High rates are just a little lower than the pic, so they dont bind

U Can Do 3D
 

I'm not sure that you can cut 4-40 threads with a die because the diameter of the rod is not the same as diameter of the outer threads. I have run into this problem when trying to cut threads. I was told that the manufacturer "rolls" - "presses" the threads; thus, squeezing the diameter of the rod causing the rod diameter to be too small for thread cutting.

U Can Do 3D
 

Coomarlin,

Sullivan sells the multi-sized 4/40 threaded rod package( 2 4 inch, 2 6 inch, 2 8 inch, 2 12 inch I believe). I bought one packet, and was able to use them for every piece of linkage. I had to cut off about 1/2" or so on either end to make some line up, but still had plenty of thread for the clevises. If your hobby shop carries them, pick that up and use it. Beats the heck out of trying to cut your own threads, or soldering clveises.

Steve


You know, we are coming up on the most read forum on here (the Aeroworks Edge forum has more views).:D

U Can Do 3D
 

Steve, did you mount your fuel tank @ CG? (don't remember you saying)

U Can Do 3D
 

Steve, your plane looks HAPPY! It must have enjoyed it's first flight as well!

How did your pull-pull work out?

U Can Do 3D
 

Hehe, Yeah, it was definately happy it made it down in one piece :D. I had originally cut a small opening in the nose, but was concerned about airflow, so I opened it up. The square box wasnt cutting it from a style standpoint, so the CanUDo got a facelift hehe.

My tank (8 oz)is not quite on the CG. It ends just at the leading edge of the wing. My tank pressure was a little low on extended verticals (not good in TR), and I didnt use my perry pump. I could run the pump and have continuous pressure, but I'm going with the 91 FX. Twice the power, and more prop. I'll prob go with the stock tank, and push it back to the cg, if I can figure out where to put my receiver and throttle servo. I could move them to the rear of the fuse, if my extensions are long enough. (Theres a thought). I already have an access hatch cut for the battery. I might also go with a 6 volt pack, for more speed/torque.

The pull pull worked great. I may tighten a couple of turns of slack out of them, if I see they are wandering a little.

U Can Do 3D
 

By the way,

What props are people running with the 91 fx? I'm thinking either an APC 15/4, 14/6 or even a 16/4. Am I in the ballpark, or are there others that work well? I am open to wood props too, if they work well.

U Can Do 3D
 

Steve,

Could you tell that big of a difference that would make you move the tank back?

U Can Do 3D
 

Well, I couldnt, as I only got a couple of flights on mine today. The right thrust was really bugging me, and one deadstick downwind landing on the last flight made me quit while i was ahead. I think every little bit would help, especially in keeping the balance close from the beginning to end of the flight. And if the general thinking is a CG of 6 inches or further back, then moving things aft seems to be a logical choice.

U Can Do 3D
 

I'm new to 3D but not to flying. Do you think that I can get away with a 5.5" - 5.75" CG on my first flight?

U Can Do 3D
 

I'd try conservative and go between 5 and 5 1/4 5 1/2 at the most. Better to be a lil noseheavy, than tailheavy on the first flight. you can always move the cg back.

U Can Do 3D
 

OK, thanks! I'll go with 5.5". I think that I can handle that.

U Can Do 3D
 

Are you guys using the supplied engine mount and screws? What the heck is a #29? That is the size they suggest for drilling into the mount. As far as I know I don't have a #29. A 5/32 bit looks like it would be the closest, but with my luck as soon as I use it, the hole will be too big and the bolts will strip. I usually like to use mounting bolts that go the entire way through the mount so I can put nuts on the end. The bolts that come with the kit are only 3/4 inch and they are self tapping.

U Can Do 3D
 

I am putting bolts w/lock nuts on the engine mount. A little extra security is worth the $1.00 in parts for me.

U Can Do 3D
 

A #29 drill bit is .136" in size.

What to do
 

Getting my first one tomorrow.U Can Do,YS91,15/6 APC,8411 on tail,9411 on wing.8231 on throttle, all Central hobby hardware,carbon push rods,good tail wheel,carbon main landing gear,Just need to know what to do with all of this stuff.Thanks Daryl

U Can Do 3D
 

How's the weight of that YS 91 for the UCanDo?

-s