U Can Do 3D
 

My friend goes full throttle, and striaght vertical in a few feet. I prefer half throttle. It is still light in a few feet. I let it gracefully gain a few feet , then it's all madness :D

U Can Do 3D
 

Just maidened mine today. Has a Saito 100 on the nose and man is it awsome. No weigh added and it weighed in at 6lbs 2 oz. Not too bad considering. Got 4 flights total on it and I'm loving it.
Anyone else have the 100 up front, if so what prop are you running?




Neo

U Can Do 3D
 

15x4w apc

Prop for Saito 100
 

APC 15x6

U Can Do 3D
 

APC 16x4W or Zinger 16x5 Tachs over 9000, and slow flight and pulling power is great!

U Can Do 3D
 

I will be experimenting with APC 15x6, 15x4W and 16x4W with my Saito 100. Will let you know my verdict............

Props
 

I Am using a MK 14-8 with cline regulator and powermaster 20/20 and am very happy with this combo. However I have a Apc 15-4 W in the mail and looking forward to installing it and blasting it around.

U Can Do 3D
 

Has the thread finally died??

U Can Do 3D
 

I've been flyin' my UCANDO (90 size) with a Saito 100 (inverted) with a Cline regulator and APC 16 x 4 prop. Engine spool-up is a bit slower than the 15 x 6 but more thrust and slower speeds are my preference. I can't get the plane to Harrier, (upright - haven't tried inverted) even with up spolierons mixed with elevator (up ailerons with up elevator). CG is way aft - with a 6v 1650 mah battery in way aft fuse. But, the plane will hover all day and do slow close-in aerobatics either on the wing or the prop.

When assembling new, I epoxied tri stock at the wing/fuse former and gear area. I have about a 100 flights with no problems

U Can Do 3D
 

Fellas,

I am having a blast with this plane. I just started experimenting with my Futaba Super 8 and what a difference. I used the PMIXs for KE flight compensation and also coupled the Ailerons to the Elevator (Ailevators) WOW!!!!!! My roll rate is unbelievable now when I flip the switch the UCANDO3D (hate the name) just spins around it's axis as fast as I want or as slow as I want. I am only powering this plane with a Magnum 91 Four Stroke with a 15x4W prop. I have unlimited vertical, pulls out of a hover slowly but that is good enough insurance for me. Plane is all stock and I have around 20-30 flights on it. CG is still forward around 4 7/8" to 5". I want to get into flat spins / blenders. Do I need to move my fuel tank from stock to center wing and move my CG back? What do you all recommend? I still want the plane to fly comfortably.

Jeff

U Can Do 3D
 

Maybe I should post this else where, but I'm running what most are here. Saito 100, inverted, cline reg., OS F plug, Cool Power 30%. My problem, is the motor likes to kick back at startup, and spinning the prop nut loose. I've read EVERY thread I can find on this motor, and have tried, and set everything. This is my first glow plane, and there is no one locally that runs Saito to help me.

What seems to help, is spinning it over with the throttle open, to get rid of excess fuel. I then try starting it by flipping it backwards. If it doesn't start, then I hit it with the starter. It will still kick back sometimes flipping it backwards, or when I use the starter.

The motor runs great, good power, tachs a 16x4W arround 9500. I use a tach on the high end. I peak it, and can hear it lean out, but the needle seems not to react when I back it off. To drop it 300 rpm, takes alot, so I have been just going a 1/4 turn. Low end is about 2 1/2 turns in, but again, to idle under 2700, seems unreliable.

Rookie looking for help! Thanxs!

Renie

U Can Do 3D
 

Renie,
If it kicks the prop when applying throttle from iidle, it's because idle is lean. If you can't get idle down to at least 2000 look at your plug, are you using OS F plug?
I have not used the Cline set up, it may need an adjustment I am not familliar with, I run YS engines when going glow.
DKjens

U Can Do 3D
 

I've been running the 100 also......you shouldn't need a regulator in this configuration. I've got about 25 flights.....give or take a few and have had no problems except that I run it out of fuel because I'm, having so much fun. You say that you tached it but you also said you heard it go lean. I know no one at our field that can tune a four stroke by ear. The cahnges near peak are so minute in pitch that a tach is needed to accuratly tune it. Be sure to use a tach at all times. That would be my first recommendation and as statedin the previous post......bottom end sounds too lean.



Neo

U Can Do 3D
 

It transition fine. It kicks back when I try to start. Using an OS F plug. Tank is moved back at the cg, that's the reason for the cline. I used to have the cline mounted back, but since I have moved it right at the carb, the needle is more sensitive.

Renie

U Can Do 3D
 

I agree with Neo and get a TNC tach ;)

U Can Do 3D
 

I had the same problem with my saito 150 kicking back when I used a starter on it. The way I overcame it was to use a Higley Alum nut and a dubro alum prop nut. I threadlocked both and made sure it set up overnight before going out to the field. I now wear a glove, and hand prop it.

With the plane secured (I use a couple of padded spikes in front of the wing) and the glow ignitor off, I go to wide open throttle and cover the exhaust port, and give it a few flips. You want the fuel to flow pretty freely out the exhaust.

Then go backwards against compression one flip, to make sure its not hydrolocked.

Put on a leather landscaping or welders glove (I'm turning an apc 17/6 on mine), plug in the ignitor, and flip it backwards against compression. Not too hard, but enough to make the prop flip back in the normal direction by itself. Mine will usually turn over on the first flip doing that. By placing your prop correctly, you can hit the "hard spot" in a way that your hand willl be clear if it kicks back or turns over.

I absolutely refuse to use a starter on my saito, simply because I got sick of the spinner/nut/and prop flinging at me.

Hope this helps,
Steve

U Can Do 3D
 

I am also using exactly the same higley nut/dubro spinner nut as yours steve, but I'm using an electric starter. No probs so far but I might add the threadlock as insurance. Thanks for the idea......

U Can Do 3D
 

I also make sure I have a few of those nuts in the field box. That way, if I really torque one down with and strip it, my day isnt done. I use the blue loctite tighten-up threadlock. Its in a white tube. It holds great, but will let you break the nut loose without breakin anything else. Also, some of it will stay on the threads when you take the nut off, so there is some left when you change props.

Believe it or not, I feel like I have much better control over the plane by not using the starter on it. I was (and to some extent, still am) highly intimidated by the 1.50. Was nervewracking trying to start it, even with someone holding the plane. Everytime I tried to use the starter, it would kick back, or jump around when the engine tried to turn over. And I wanted to keep a hand on the top of the fuse to hold it. That got unnerving with the large prop. And until i can learn how to pick my nose with my toes, I kinda need all my fingers ;) And I am nowhere near that flexible, and never intend to be. I still use my starter for my smaller engines, but since I learned how to hand prop it, I can do it quite easily.

U Can Do 3D
 

Hi Steve, I'm running a Saito 100 btw. I was thinking of drilling a hole through the spinner nut and tapping it for a set screw. Then tighten the set screw on the engine shaft. Might give it a try....

U Can Do 3D
 

Thanx Steve! That's what I have learned on my own. Flipping it back seems to be the best. I just could not understand why it kicked the prop when I hit it with the starter.

U Can Do 3D
 

Stevezero I've heard many people talk about being intimidated by the 150. I don't own the 150 (only the 100), but with the 150's reputation I'd probably be a little weary too. I've heard more stories about thrown props from that engine than any other.

On my 100, I have a cline regulator and I use an electric start. In all honesty, it's the easiest engine I've ever had to start. No priming or anything. I just burp it with the electric start and off it goes. It's never thrown a prop, (which the 100 is not known for doing anyway) and has given me 0 problems since I've had it. I don't know what it is about that 150, but it's got a reputation :) I make it a point to run the 100's highend slightly on the rich side. (~250rpm off peak) I keep the low end needle as lean as I can get while getting a smooth transition to full power.

U Can Do 3D
 

Hi coomarlin, are you using a spinner or prop nut with your starter ?

U Can Do 3D
 

I'm using a Dave Brown Vortec Aluminum Spinner. I considered a propnut, but went with the spinner instead. I don't imagine that it would make much difference when starting.

U Can Do 3D
 

Mine threw it with both a spinner and a prop nut. It seemed the starter was giving too much force to the left, and breaking the stock saito nut loose just enough to sling everything off. I then tried the higley nut with the stock saito nut and an alum spinner, same problem, but this time just the spinner came loose. Got frustrated, and put the dubro nut on without threadlock (this was at the field), and after three flights, it would work loose and once came off with the starter. If I turned it over by hand, it wouldnt even kick back. So I just forced myself to get into the habit of handpropping it. Now with the threadlock, I'm sure I could nail it with the starter, but there isnt a need to do it. My gloved hand is way clear of the prop by the time it starts turning over to compression, and will usually start on the 1st or 2nd flip. I do have a bit more of a hassle after the engine is hot. I dont get enough fuel into the line/engine, and it takes a few more flips (thats my fault, not the engine's)

The 150 and even the 180's do have a reputation for prop slinging, and alot of it is due to too lean of a low end or trying to start them when they are fairly dry. It starts a viscious cycle of firing forward a turn, then firing backward a turn, then forward a turn, then backward a turn. Eventually somethings got to give, which ends up being the prop nut,spinner.

Just remember, when handpropping, use a glove. It will definately save you alot of grief in the long run.

U Can Do 3D
 

My 100 seems to have to be absolutely dry, or it kicks back. I have been told this is because it's inverted, but there are way too many here that have no problem like this.

If mine does't start with the starter when it's dry, I have to hand flip it, otherwise it will kick the prop.