RE: U Can Do 60
 

I lost the main gear yesterday... Not a hard landing, just had a bounce...After inspection, I found that there was NO glue or supporting structure under the gear block. Since this plane was pre owned, I don't know if this is something that is installed from the factory, or by the user... So, I re-engineered it and it will hold, I would hope..

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Nova, I don't have any remains from the first batch of UCDs run, but from a newer model I see the mount block is glued to the former that you can see, the one with the holes for the wing dowels. On the other side of the block, inside, out of sight, is another half former that the other side of the block is glued to. There is also tri stock bracing finished with two 1/8" pins that go through the block and the two formers. Is that what you find? I don't know if it was a later improvment or what. Joe

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Nova flier Did you ever get your Saito 100 problem worked out ? I did not here from you if so. Steve

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Mine's ready to go, just waiting for some good flying weather.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I lost my landing gear. I forgot to screw them in tight and I almost hit myself in the head with em. I thought it was a bird flying at me.. but.. when it hit I thought to myself.. "I might need that." This was my maiden flight and the first airlplane to fly other than trainer. The winds were about avg 20 mph.. and.. I had a new transmitter that I was not used to (8103). Had flapperons on and high rates on all (didn't know which way they were supposed to be set). The plane was all over the place b/c I didn't know how to use expo. I was able to bring it in after about the forth pass and belly land just as smooth as could be. Says a lot for the plane for someone with that little experience at the time to be able to bring it in safe at all.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

My first post was number 136 in this thread, and I've also been following this thread ever since, even though I don't post here very often.

I test flew my UCD 60 in October 2002, and it's still around despite some near fatal incidents such as broken CA hinges......an inverted landing......an engine flameout during a hover that knocked the landing gear mount and the firewall loose.....and several more engine flameouts at critical times that probably should have killed my UCD.

My UCD 60 started out with a Super Tigre 90, and later a second ST 90. But both of those engines always had throttling and reliability problems.......which nearly cost me my UCD on several occasions. Adding a mousse can pipe to the ST 90 greatly improved the throttling and reliability, but not enough to give me 100% confidence in the engine 100% of the time. The next-to-last straw was a flameout in a hover with the rudder less than a foot off the ground. Fortunately, the UCD fell a few inches, stood on it's tail, then flopped forward, breaking the prop and flattening the landing gear. The final straw was an exact repeat performance a few minutes later. At that point, I decided the ST 90 had to go before it re-kitted my UCD.

So a few months ago the ST 90 w/MCP was removed and a TT Pro 120 with a MCP was installed. BIG IMPROVEMENT!!! The TT 120 w/MCP spinning a Zinger 16x5 has finally made my UCD come alive. And more importantly, the engine has proven to throttle well, with 100% reliability. The more I fly the UCD with the TT 120 w/MCP.....the more I like it......and the more I kick myself for not installing this engine in the first place.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Can anyone recommend a good replacement fuel tank for the UCD? Preferably one that is of similar size and one that would work best with a cline regulator? Anyone ever tried the sullivan flex tanks? how would they work in the UCD with cline?

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I use the Sullivan tank in my UCD3D , I'm using a YS110FZ , the pump on the YS put's out allot of pressure, Iv'e had no problem's ..... tank work's well for me ....JW

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I am having problems getting my low end right on my ys 110fz. Where are your settings for your high, low, and regulator? I know I have the high right actually. I used a tach and that is pretty easy for me. The transision from low to high is good too... but.. my idle is always rough. I have tried everything on the low from all the way screwed in (rich) to 3 1/2 turns out. I did balance the prop too.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Coo I had a flex tank in mune at first and it blew up like a football, ckacked the fuse in a couple of places. I went back to the stock tank and since it's the stiffer white plastic it doesn't bulge hardly at all. Whatever you do make sure you use one of the stiff tanks like a Du-Bro or Sullivan. I have a 16 oz. Sullivcan round tank that will fit but it will take a bit of surgery to get it in there, opted to stay with the stock tank for now in mine.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Thanks for the info Scott. If the flex tanks bulge that much then I'm not interested. Do you still use the stopper that came with the stock tank, or did you use an aftermarket stopper. My stopper loosened and popped out of the tank causing fuel soaking. I thought about upgrading the tank or even just replacing the stopper but was looking for suggestions.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Coo, what about the tanks that are used in gassers. The cap screws on.
Dave, Good to hear from you. My first one was from the 2002 batch. I wish I knew about RCU at that time.
c016Y, how old is th YS, from what I've read they are cranky until you got a few gallons in them. Autoguns could straighten you out on it, I'm sure. Joe

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I have 2 and 1/2 gallons of powermaster ys 20/20 run through it my ys 1.10fz. It seems like it should be broken in pretty well? It might even be my regulator pumping fuel in when at idle. I know that is bad for smooth idle.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

c016Y, I thought that my Saito 100 couldn't run any better, until I installed my regulator. I have nothing but praise for it. Smoooooth, with the lowest idle I've ever seen. I do my low end adjustments on the bench while running the engine. Its a little scary, but the quickest and easiest way. Joe

RE: U Can Do 60
 

I pitched the stock stopper and used an extra Sulivan I had in the pile, along with the Sullivan plastic back plate. It all stacks up like so.....stock metal front plate(hole drilled out to accept the Sullivan screw)/Sullivan stopper/stock metal back plate(hole drilled too)/Sullivan plastic back plate. The Sullivan stopper is a loose fit in the stock tank but with enough turns the stopper will mushroom enough to fill and seal the gap. The reason for the metal parts is so that I can really crank down on the screw and compress the stopper well. The Sullivan plastic back plate will not allow the screw to loosen up at all.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Hi so your 110 is running rough? ...is it detonating when you go from a idle to mid-throttle ? if so it's to lean and you will need to richen it up a little.....You can start by turning the low idle in all the way ,then back out to 1 1/2 turns from closed...this is a good start point ...on the other hand if the engine is just running rough your to rich ...run the engine to temp....set your high needle then return to a idle let it idle for 15-20sec....if the engine start's to run rough Without detonating lean it down in SMALL increments..leaning is (counterclockwise and rich is clockwise)...Just the opposite from the high needle.....after each adjustment clear the engine by running at top speed for a few second's......The regulator is factory set ,the screw should be flush with the bottom of the regulator body...... I hope this helps you....JW....Two more thing it's better to be a tad rich then lean.....also you my want to try a different prop...I use an APC 16x6 or a APC 16x4w.....JW

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Yeah.. I know saito's are nice. I know the ys's can be too (I really like the built in pump). They are not as easy to tune though. My friend has several that will just purr at low idle.. then mine sits there and the whole plane shakes. I was hoping someone could tell me what they have the low and high end setting at on their ys 1.10fz just for comparison.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

autogun.. you must have been writing at the same time as me. How many turns out do you run on the low and high? Is your regulator slightly above or below the casing?

I don't detonate. Transition is smooth.. it is just the rough idle.

I agree on the prop. I liked the 16x4W. The 16x6 will not sit still with my idle probs.. ha. They make a 17x4W now that I thought I would try. I see it on their page but it is like 2x the price.

RE: U Can Do 60
 

sound's like it's running fat on the low end.......I just edited the post ...I think mine is @ 1 1/4 or so on the low and the high is just over 1 1/4 turn's...The reg on mine is set @ the factory spec...flush with the regulator body....with the 16x6 prop you need to tie a rock to it if you want it to sit still...LOL....JW

RE: U Can Do 60
 

OK.. I just didn't realize people were actually using rocks. That was what I was thinking I should do. Good advice.. I will do that. jj.

I will try those settings out. Thanks

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Copy that ...save all the metal stopper plate's and put them in a 12gage shotgun shell....For target practice.....LOL...JW

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Hope that will help you ....By the way you'd never know the rock is trailing you ...And it make's hovering easier.....Bwahahaha...JW

RE: U Can Do 60
 

J Dubya, I knew you knew. One thing you may want to mention that a lot of people miss. When running in the low end adjustment to reset to factory settings, make sure that the throttle is closed to find the proper "bottom" before backing it out. Joe

RE: U Can Do 60
 

Oya ....I stand corrected.......CT is 100% correct.......CT,you know the old saying......Do what I mean , Not what I say....LOL....Just kiddin.....Did everyone copy that....JW

RE: U Can Do 60
 

cumn thru.. what do you mean make sure the throttle is closed before backing out. Are you saying that in order to completely close the low end that the throttle has to be closed or it will not screw in all the way? I don't see how that would correlate.. so... I think I am just not understanding you.

I fixed it by the way. I turned the regulator out/couter clock/richen. I actually have it above the casing. It immediatly started purring. I was elated to see this. didn't bother to set the high end fully. The low end was great. The high end was too rich, but, didn't have my tach and didn't want to mess with it w/o tach. It was actually holding still with my 16x6 prop!! Of course... this was on grass, but, I think it will hold on concrete. I had to turn the thing out over half a turn (I am told that is a lot for the regulator) http://home.comcast.net/~mark.fuess/ys110.htm.