RE: Lanier Yak
 

FYI,

For those of you guys who fly hard 3D, you will want to reinforce the part where the canopy attachment to the fuse (the one with the 4-40 screw holding the canopy to the plane). Mine sheared off during a very violent waterfall-KE spin on my Edge. Everything else is intact, but that was kind of anoying.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Here's a simple fix for that soft tail wheel bracket. I used some alum. flatstock to brace between the forward mounting screw and the tailwheel attachment point. Used a 1/8 pop rivit for the rear attachment. I also bent the bracket lower to raise the fuse rear to 5 1/4" off the floor. This makes it less likely to bounce on landing and easier to prime the engine since my carb. is in back of the ZDZ and fuel would rather run out than up. I changed out the silly foam wheel which flattens out all the time to a solid 1 1/4" Dubro at 12 gram heavier. [img][/img]

RE: Lanier Yak
 

gonna do some more research on the planes flight capabilities

RE: Lanier Yak
 

I plan on having a blast with it all day tomorrow. SHHHHHHH work doesn't know that. :D Supposed to be one of the nicer days here in Northern Ohio 63 and sunny. A few of us are taking the day off, so it should be a regular good ole time. A few madiens and flying the S%^& out of the Yak. I will have more to report after that. Also, I have decided not to do any tweaking until next week, not brag, but for you Futaba people out there, I have confirmed that my 12ZAP will be shipping tomorrow. :)

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Did it shear off the tabs or pull through the fuse sides? Had the screws worked loose wich may have caused a vibration then the failure? Thx

RE: Lanier Yak
 

tabs came unglued. They stay put where the screws are

RE: Lanier Yak
 

I am building one now and the kit is great. I have the DA50. One thing you need to know is that on the wheel pants they have drilled two holes for the axle to go thru and the axle is too short. It will only go thru the landing gear side.
So far the kit looks great and I am excited about it. I will use JR servos, 320 oz torque, and one servo on the rudder.
JErry

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Hi
I had to add another peice of ply to the sdie for the axle to engae the wheel pant.....with the DA I tink you will need to go pull-pull or you may encounter bal issues....I set my DA at 7.25 from the firewall and with a pullpull it bal. easily
Regards

RE: Lanier Yak
 

By the way, the the Axel being too short, it is not too short. That is the way they now come. I have a Super Stearman by GP and a Waco by Kangke and both the axels do not reach the other side, because you would see a hole in the wheel pants on the outside. If it is properly done, with a ply insert and blind nuts on the inside of the wheel pant and 3/56 bolts, it holds very well, and easy to adjust thte wheel for centering and taking off the wheel pant. the pics showing the inside is the Stearman set up, it has over 700 flights on those wheel pants, the other wheel pant showing the outsde is the Waco, and those have no flights, as the plane has not flown yet. But you can see on hole in the wheel pant.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

about that tailwheel. Alum. does not spring, it bends. I added another brace to the bracket and got a stiff assembly. It tore off. Especially with a small wheel, there needs to be some cushion. Check out the Ohio SuperStar Products tailwheel assembly. At only 1/2 oz. difference, which looks like it belongs on a 20# airplane? Shame on Lanier. The original just flattens out! Those silly axle collars holding a shaft going through 1/8" alum is also doomed to be sloppy. Superstar has a Dubro hollow treaded 1 3/4" tire, spring steel bracket, long housing for the tailwheel shaft, welded tiller bar, and much finer spring, all for $15. I think ground handling will be much improved. Had to end my day when the orig. mess ripped off.
Still, she flys great. 45 degree elevator and rudder puts the airbrakes on this puppy. I think I will back if off for less throw and more precision. Aleirons are adequate with 1" servo arms and the adjustable control horn tightened up to the cup washer, but could not use the supplied metal clevis, because mine came with silicone tubing keepers, not clevis clips. The tubing, when put in place to keep the clevis together was in the way for the servo arm to go to its max throw. I changed out all the clevises to Dubro 4-40 Safety Lock Kwik-Link. As far as using the #4 hardware, I have no problem with it, since the rods are short. However, a kit should have usable hardware, not stuff everyone has to replace.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

thinking of mixing my elevator halves to aileron imputs to be able to roll even better. I have 9 channels to mess with. wonder what the flat spin will look like with elevator halves mimicing the ailerons? rolls should be a blur, but probably need to keep the power on.
I have a problem with the rudder bouncing back and forth. I switched to JR metal gear with a shorter arm and it mostly stopped, but have less throw. Still loosing canopy screws. Will try a inside serrated lock washer. Tried lok-tite and nylon washer. Still came out. Had a hinge fail in the tail, had to re-glue it. Still going rearward with CG, want inverted to be hands off. It rained today and 40 mph winds with stroner gusts, calling for tornados and severe thunderstorms. I decided to change out the tailwheel. Maybe more research tomorrow. Let me know how they fly, guys.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

IFlyWhenICan,

Sorry to take so long... I had a couple nice days come up and had to bust to finish the GP CAP232 for review... Got the maiden in on it... but it was windy and still need some more footage and in-flight photos...


On your throws... these should be real close for you:

Elevators (measured at the furthest point on the elevator... point closest to fuse) Standard rate = 1 7/8" 3D Rate = 3 5/8"
Rudder (measured at the very bottom furthest point) Standard rate = 5" 3D Rate = 7 5/8"
Ailerons (measured at the root point) Standard rate = 2 1/8"" 3D Rate = 3 7/8"

Just an FYI... I use these awesome throw meters from http://www.hppilots.com

I have 4 of the 3D Pro meters and a 3D Rudder meter... I can clip them on all surfaces, zero them, and never have to touch the plane again til the surfaces are setup. It's alittle overkil, because you can get two 3DPro meters and do the elevators then move the meters to the ailerons. And if on a tight budget you can use just one and trade them around the plane one at a time.

Thes enewer versions have boca bearings and a magnifying glass for a more accurate reading.

(I had to fudge the rudder setup as It's designed to slide between the counterbalance... but this rudder/fin is SO thick and deep it obscured the meter. You can set it up like i have it (on top of the counter balance) and use the clamp pin for reference just fine. Just don't slam the stick as it might throw the meter off and poke a hole in your covering... It's held in place with "magnet clamps" that are strong, but these digital servos are fast and furious! :)

I'm pretty sure he has combo deals where you can get 2 of the 3D Pros and a Rudder meter at a discount... call and find out.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Took the day off yesterdaqy to fly it and I'll tell you what, I love it more and more every flight. Me and a buddy with a GP Patty were flying formation, lot-o-fun!!!!!!! Anyway, I am lucky that today I am singing praises and not crying my eyes out. I have small Li-Po packs for the reciever that I switch out every flight and charge each time. Well dummy me picked the wrong pack and put one of the dead ones in the plane. I was flying around and something wasn't right, I landed it and sure enough the radio died right there. I made 2 mistakes here, 1 I didn't number my various packs to know which was charged and which wasn't, 2 I have indicator lights telling me if the battery is good or not and didn't look at them.
The funny thing is, I have been the loudest preacher at my field about battery condition and charge. 50-70% of all crashes are battery related and I almost lost it due to wanting to have too much fun. Scary thought, but atleast it's in one piece and ready to go again this weekend.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

I don't think you are saving enough weight to justify the hassle of battery swap, potential mishap (like today) and potential battery failure.

You love it now... go ahead and throw 2000+ pack at it and lfy all day long without worries... ;)

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Thanks Maudib...I appreciate the info a lot. [sm=thumbup.gif]

patternman...here is something that I tried when losing screws from canopies or cowls..I put some clear silicone sealer on the threads of the screws and install them. It doesn't stop loosing them all together, but it does slow them down from backing out.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Finally, a break in the weather !
I Broke the twentieth flight mark with mine as of yesterday and a few minor things to harp on..

As noted earlier the stock tail wheel is good for about ten flights, swap it out quickly. I will be ordering a "Petes models" tail wheel from Troybuilt , have never had one of these and they look pretty rugged for a CF unit.

The main gear are starting to sag already[:o]. I’ve worked hard at setting her down easy on the runway because our field is a bit rough this time of year. So I haven’t bumped the gear yet, but still getting some droop. Won't be as much an issue with you seventeen pounder’s. (Are you reading this graph tech ??)

The wheels them selves are also starting to show some wear and tear. They are nice and light, but maybe too light for this plane. Will swap them for some Sullivans. Very easy to get flat spots on them. One night on the cement floor is all it takes. need to rack it or support the fuse while parked.

Cowl is starting to chip where I did my cut outs.

Hmmmm,
That’s about it !
Did I forget to say that I Love this plane !!!
Little annoyances aside this thing is a blast to fly. Burned over a gallon of gas just playing harrier. I couldn’t count all the times one of my flying buddies kept saying " Its gonna snap ! Its gonna snap !!" LOL.. never did, just floats around like a big balloon.
Fun time.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

pcsol,
what is the optimum setup for harrier? CG, Deflection, etc.
Patternman turned 3D

RE: Lanier Yak
 

on the canopy screws, I find that putting a fuel tubing (silicone) between the fuse and the washer is the perfect solution. I've never had a screw back out that way.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Canopy Screws???Give me a break!!!!This NEVER Works long term!!!

RE: Lanier Yak
 

are we talking about the same thing? I'm talking about the 4-40 you use to hold the hatch/canopy to the fuse.

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Hi
I guess not..
regards

RE: Lanier Yak
 

lol

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Hi, i have my yak ballanced at 7 1/2 in from le of wing, and i will not snap or spin, any help?????
Jim

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Are you saying you have flown it and it WON'T snap or spin? The Yak is a VERY stable aircraft and doesn';t get any help from an elevator snap tendency.

Still at high rates you should be able to snap very nicely.

In flatspins, play with the ailerons... first switch rudder/elevator to high, leave ailerons on low and try your flatspins... if it still flops outs, try the maneuvers without any ailerons at all... just elevator and rudder input.


You say you are at 7.5"... how does it land? node down or floaty?

RE: Lanier Yak
 

Patterman,
I started out at 7" and have quickly moved back to a 7 3/4 inches (maybe even a smidge more). I have kept my elevators at 25 degrees on low and 45 on high. I use tons of expo to make up for my dumb thumbs with these throws . At 7 3/4 inches and on high rate the elevators are very touchy but the rudder and ailerons have remained constant throughout the range. I will be dialing out a lot of the expo on both to get a little more crisp snaps and rolls but will leave it cranked up on the elevators for now to keep me out of trouble :D

Jim: not sure what to tell ya, I started out at 7" and have had no problems snapping from the git go. However I could not get her to flatten out inverted or upright until I got back to around 7 1/2" (and full throws). How much throw are you using ?