RCU Forums - GP Cap 232

RCU Forums (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/)

- 3D Flying! (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/3d-flying-82/)

- - GP Cap 232 (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/3d-flying-82/4437012-gp-cap-232-a.html)

You guys are killing me :D All I can do is remember what it was like to fly my Cap with my DA. Just got 11 inches of snow here and 40 mph winds! If its not ice storms, its snow storms here and its only Dec![:o] Seems like its going to be forever till spring.
Well, keep up on the flight reports, I'll gonna see if I cant put another deer in the freezer tomorrow.

Help me out guys.. The Cap manual says to use 1 inch or 1.5 inch metal servo arms for full 3D throws. Should I just go 1.5 all the way around? Aileron/Ele and Rudder? I want to get the AirWild's. They come in 1.25 or 1.5. Thanx.

I just used heavy duty Dubro plastic arms. Never had a problem.

Can anybody help me out here.. The Hangar 9 titanium links.. For instance.. 3.5 inch means 3.5 inches total length? Including the threads?

I believe so. I ended up using regular links. I don't think I could get the ti links in the length needed. IF you use 4-40 all-thread with the CF tube over it it will work just as well.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: RadarController

Help me out guys.. The Cap manual says to use 1 inch or 1.5 inch metal servo arms for full 3D throws. Should I just go 1.5 all the way around? Aileron/Ele and Rudder? I want to get the AirWild's. They come in 1.25 or 1.5. Thanx.

I went with the Airwild 1 1/4" all around. Ele/Ali and Rudder. Plenty of travel. I got mine from Troy Built Models.

Gott'em. Airwild 1.25's all the way around.

I will be posting the finished product of my GP CAP232 soon. I personally love the CAP and choose to not pay homage to the Yak or Sukhoi(although I like). This kit is lighter(due to one piece wing) with realitively the same wing loading/span as the others I mentioned. As well as costing close to 100 dollars less, because it's not the latest and greatest. However, I have chose to put the Great Planes Yak-54 wheel skirts on my cap for weight loss! Maintaining some appearance rather than none. I've chose a couple other aftermarket mods that I like for quality/performance/weight listed below:

- FPE 2.4(40cc) = total weight with ignition/muffler is 52oz turns 20x10/6800 http://www.fpengines.com/html/24.htm
- Master Airscrew 20x8 Scimitar/2.8oz http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAA53&P=7
- Irvine Plastic spinner w/ alum back plate(bought in europe) = 1.5 oz lighter than stock
- Hangar 9 titanium links http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/GHard...ages.htm#links
- Two Fremeco 2600mah lithium ion batteries = 3.5oz each http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/LiIonBatteries2CELL.htm
- Powerbox Sensor double switch/duel independent 5.9 regulator - http://www.powerbox-systems.com/e/po...nsor/start.php
- Hydrimax 4.8 NIMH 750mah AAA ignition batt = 1.9oz provides roughly 6 - 10 min flights http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPYL6&P=7
- Yak wheels skirts = 2oz lighter than stock and provides appearance and aerodynamics(drag reduction) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLLB8&P=Z
- Hitec Mighty Mini Servo = .95oz - roughly one oz lighter than standard servo http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXN664&P=ML
- Stock main wheels = actually lighter than Kavan due to being foam
- Troy Built titanium axles http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/AxlesWheelcollars.htm
- Troy Built Carbon Universal landing gear = 3oz lighter than stock http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/LandingGear.htm
- 14 ounce Dubro tank/stock tank vice dubro empty = dubro 1oz lighter
- One 5955TG servo for rudder/installed on outside fuse in tail/one is all you need with that torque http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHZR9&P=ML

Might slave off of one of the Fremeco's for the ignition. After all is done I'm hoping to get ready to fly weight about 12.5lbs. Maybe less. Not too shabby for a gasser. My first I might add. With duel battery security as well. I'm not sure if the money/weight will substantiate performance, but I didn't want to buy an expensive DA(although for the aftermarket accesories I could have), and I really wasn't too keen on a chinese engine(no offense to those who have bought one, but I'm waiting a year or so to see feedback). Stand by for pictures and future updates. I'm a dork.

Did anyone else have an issue where the rudder pushrod (servo mounted in the rear) actually touches the left hand elevator half when it moves down? How did you solve the problem?

=R

use some dubro http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFPW7&P=0 to move the link to the side so it will not touch let me know if you want a pic.

Did you cut the rudder control horn as the manual illistrates? Page 15. Or does it still hit? I haven't got that far yet. I'll be assembling that tonight.

as in my pics the pushrod hits at 3d levels, due to the plastic servo horn beeing fat , if using a Aluminum Horn ( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFVK4&P=ML )then the arm is lowerd to the body of the plane so there is no chanch of touching or binding with the dubro link. i am not at 3d level yet so i am not worried about it , and i cannot got the 11/2 aluminum servo horn easly here.

RadarController - yes, I did cut the control horn. I currently have the rudder pushrod in the second hole, and it still hits. See picture.

Elvir - I was in the 3rd hole, but moved it to the second hole. I'm reluctant to move it in any more as I don't wish to lose rudder resolution. I've got some Airwild MLP aluminum horns on order, hoping that will solve the issue.

In the pictures, you can clearly see the rudder pushrod touching the elevator half.

=R

Another option is not running ball links on the servo and control horn. I'm using dubro kwik link on the control horn and the ball link on the servo. That might provide clearance. Actually the Airwilds will solve the problem. The Dubros are very high off the gear of the servo the Airwilds are not. Look close at my picture. You'll be good to go. Try out the Kwik links too. They're tried and proven. Even Troy Built says so.

My servo arm is on the other side, and the horn is lower on the rudder, and there is no problem.

So the arm on your rudder servo points down, below the bottom edge of the fuse?

Are you using ball links at each end or the standard 4-40 metal clevises that came with the plane?

Would you be able to post a picture?

=R

mkking09 has the best for the no binding . but installing al servo arms getting the ball link claser to the air frame will also solve the problem, well it is sat morning and i am gooing to the feild will try to post some new smoke pics today .

sorry for the miss spell it is (closer to the air frame)

Ball links (because I had them) on the servo end, clevis on the other.

Rudder arm hangs down a little below the fuse, I am using the metal arms that come with hitec servos.

well it is time to say merry christmas to all .

Complete and ready to roll! 13lbs 5oz

- First Place Engines 2.4 40cc
- two Fremeco 2600Mah Lithium Ion reciever batteries
- Power Box Sensor/duel switch
- 14oz tank
- 750 mah Hydrimax NIMH ignition battery
- Hangar 9 titanium rods
- HS-225 Mighty mini servo throttle
- 5 Hitec 5955TG servos
- 20 x 8 Master Airscrew Scimitar
- 3.5inch Plastic Irvine Spinner
- Air wild servo arms/dubro ball links
- rest is stock

Beautiful, but way overkill (5955mg, and the 5200mah on the rx) !!! I'm a little worried about your throttle servo, between vibration and heat, I would expect a failure. What is holding the rear of the tank in place? The cowl mounting method is a little original. I am curious as to your thoughts on that? I have been using http://www.pspmfg.com/CowlBinders.html they work very well and look excellent. Watch the tips on that mas, they have a tendency to split. A zinger pro would be a descent backup, ideally a xoar. How is your balance with that setup, I believe there is a type o in the manual as far as the aft limit is concerned.

Also, I defiantly think you are going to need to open up the front of the cowl for cooling around the engine. Gas engines produce a lot of heat, and need a lot of exposure. It might be ok with the 0deg weather I am experiencing but with the heat of key west You will need more cooling. Be sure to provide adequate air exit area on the underside of the cowl.

Radar, Please don't take my comments the wrong way, your craftsmanship is outstanding. I really like your placement of the decals, and your cowl work. I just wanted to point out some possible problems that may be lurking in the future. My comments are not meant to criticize but to possibly prevent problems with your beautiful airplane and engine.

I'm always looking for criticism. So definetely no hard feelings. These were my thoughts.. Servos you can never go wrong on buying the best. The 5955TG's from what I've read.. Have no slop or wear on the gears even after as many as 100 flights! The batteries only weigh 3.5oz each. Troy built suggests duel batts for 50cc aircraft:

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/LiIon...sWhatToGet.htm

The plane still comes in at a good weight for having duel batts. The other Fremeco is behind the firewall. Haven't balanced it yet. So I may have to move the one in the center of the Fuse. The gas tank isn't going anywhere. It's solid. I'll check it after one day of flying to see if it's vibrated anywhere. The cowl.. I could open up the hole in front of the cylinder head a tad. Air does come in the two holes next to the spinner as well.. Funneled air creating pressure and coming out the bottom should work well also. Weed eaters and chain saws run all day and don't have any air moving over them! I'm running 32:1 for the first few gallons. So we'll see what happens! I'm a glutton for punishment! Throttle servo.. I realize it's closer to the engine than the spot that the servo is made for.. Can't see how the heat would be that much different under the cowl with air moving? Should be fun! My first gasser.

Here's what I did to my cowl when I switched to gas and it stays nice and cool.

I'll soon be in the mix. I've had my Cap on order for abut two weeks now. It's on back order untill late Jan. Ordered a DL50 for it yesterday. I was going to go with the 1.60, but the draw of going gas got the best of me. I have always wanted to try gas as it seems to require much less field equipment and to getaway from cleaning all that oil off the plane after flying would sure be nice.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the 1.60 I got for Christmas....
Doug