I'm assembling a Cermark Cosmos ARF. The horizontal stab slides into a closed slot on the tail from the side. How do I epoxy it in when there isn't room to squeeze the epoxy into it. If you put epoxy on it before installing the stab it will smear all over the stab when you slid it in and there won't be any epoxy on the joint. The fit is pretty snug. I'm at a loss on the best way to proceed. Would be great for any advice.

skeeter

Properly position prepared stab in place and glue with thin CA followed by medium, that is all you need...

Bob

I would put the stab in position and mark the outline of the fuselage on the stab (both sides, top and bottom). Remove the stab and use a sharp exacto knife to remove the covering on the stab just inside of the fuselage outline so that you will have good wood-to-wood contact where you are going to glue the stab (careful not to score the wood with the knife, thereby weakening it). Using 30-minute epoxy (or longer), lightly coat the wood in the contact areas of the stab and fuse and allow it to soak in for a couple of minutes. Then slide the stab into the fuse, stopping just short of fully inserted. Add some more epoxy to the still exposed side of the stab, push the stab through and expose the other side and likewise add more epoxy and then properly center the stab. You can use paper towels and alcohol to remove any epoxy that got onto the fuse or stab covering.

That's the way to do it. Don't forget to cover/ protect the stab around the glue joint with some tape before you apply the second batch of epoxy. Makes for less messy clean up once you're done.

Cheers,V.

LOL.

Bob

+1 for RBACONS method. In addition I have protected the portion of the stab that is pushed through the fuse with Saran-Wrap.

Brian

Ok, already had the monokote stripped off on the stab to go in the fuse. I did RBACONS method and it seemed to work fairly well. Got a little epoxy outside the joint but it looks ok. Thanks for the help.

skeeter

+2

RBacon's answer is dead-on. In a nutshell you're basically using the stab to smear epoxy onto the wood inside the cut-out in the fuselage. It's a little bit messy but as he said, alcohol and paper towels cleans it right up. Don't pout on the alcohol though.

Also best if you use slower epoxy - 30 minute is the best choice. Plenty of time to work and clean up and then check to ensure the stabilizer is aligned properly.

Edit: Sorry, didn't read down far enough to see that it's already a done deal.

+2

So much fster, simpler and just as strong. And less mess.

As I said in the verticle stab question epoxy is needed when shear strength is needed. This type of positioning for a horizontal stab does not require significant shear strength.

I found it funny that the best advise here was completely overlooked. Not only does the epoxy method need more prep and cleanup work it is actually a weaker bond then if CA were used. Ca penetrates the wood much better then epoxy does, alignment wouldn't be an issue as you could have tacked it in place, adjusted as necessary and then flowed thin CA into the joint when ready to make permanent.

Lather it up with epoxy, slide it in, and then wipe excess off with denatured alcohol. At least that is how we do it ;-)

This is, of course, is assuming that denatured alcohol will not affect the finish of your stab. Try a test spot first....

-Sean

You can lead em to water but you cant hold their heads under....

Sure you can hold their heads under water. It's just hard to get RC parts delivered to San Quinton when you're doing 6 to 10 though.

If the fit is neat, aliphatic glue works very well too. Align the stab then run some glue along the joint and let it soak in. The excess cleans off with a wet cloth.

My big problem with recommending "aliphatic" glue is that many people will use Elmers White glue. Elmer's White is not waterproof which presents quite a problem in humid enviornments like Mobile Alabama. Yellow aliphatic like Elmer's Wood glue yes, but standard white glue, no way.

BTW, I have built a lot of furniture using wood glue - it stands up quite well.

Use Gorilla Glue...Of course useing common sense...it will expand as it dries..use small amount on important points, like the front part of stab since that will be the part trying to get lifted....After it dries you will need to trim and or sand down any portion that has bubble out....and maybe use touch up paint if needed.....but it will hold that stab in place for sure.....hope that will help you..

This works, too. I'd never say, "THIS is the ONLY way." More than one way to skin that ol' cat... It's whatever works, for you!

"He who knows he knows, knows nothing.
He who knows of nothing, really knows."

I have used both methods I have never had a stabilizer come loose. When cutting the covering for the slot, sometimes it is a little jagged, so after the stab is glued in and locked down solid, I take and mix up a little 6 minute epoxy, use a toothpick and put a small thin line on the joint where the fuse and stab meet on the top and the bottom. Not a lot, just a little on the end of the toothpick and drag it down the joint. I do not do this for strength, I do this to help seal the joint from fuel, and to hold down any little piece of covering you may have.