rstekeur

did everyone use 4 aileron servos or just 2, I was planning on using 4, I'm almost done except for the electronics and motor. I used black pin striping along the border of the red and silver, It really made it look nice. Another thing that puzeled me was they said don't remove and covering form the fin or stabilizer when epoxying them. Thats the first arf I'veput together that said that. I wonder why?

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Mate, just flare the ends of these fuel tubes slightly with needlenose pliers or similar. No soldering needed

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

You cannot solder aluminum, so brass is a must.

For my YS engines, after I bend the tubes to shape, remove it from the stopper so it does not get damaged. I solder two wraps of thin #24 gauge wire about 1/16" back from the edge with very small torch using standard electrical solder and paste flux, NOT the acid flux that comes with silver solder!

A little WD40 helps get the brass tubes though the stopper and after the lines are connected, I wrap the same wire around the fuel line twice then give it a few twists to hold the fuel line on.

Never had one blow off with the YS engines.

A large 100 watt soldering gun would probably work too.

Bill S.

rstekeur

Hey, thats a good idea. Thanks

rstekeur

What has everyone done that has used 8 servos done as far as plugging them into the RX? Is 8 to much for the rx or do you need a power bus for the current draw?

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Not for this plane. It's not that big and heavy that it justifies power distribution

rstekeur

Thanks apalsson, I'm tring to keep it as simple as I can. I've been looking at DLE 35ra's for the motor, and there on backorder everywhere. TowerHobby has a sale and the OS gt33 is close to the price. DO you think the os 33 is enough motor?

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

I'm extremely happy with the MVVS 40cc in mine. Evolution are the same brand in the US, if you can get those. Another option might be ZDZ 40

rstekeur

I'ved looked for a zdz40 and haven't been able to find one listed

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

What about Evolution 35cc or 40cc?

rstekeur

the weight of the ZDZ40 is almost the same as the DLE55, HP is 5.5 for the dle and 4.8 for the zdz. Would a DLE55 be too much?

ZDZ40

Wt - 3.25 Lbs
Disp - 40 CC
Power - 4.8 hp
Prop - 20X8, 20X10
Static thrust - 22 lbs

DLE55
-
5.5 HP at 7,500 RPM
 Weight: Engine, 2.9lbs (1310g)
                  Muffler, 3.5oz (100g)
                  Ignition, 3.9oz (110g)

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, a 55cc would be an overkill for this plane
From memory, the prototype plane was flown on the ZDZ40 and the manual states it was at the top end of the power range

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Maybe the best choice is to simply wait till the engine you want gets in stock somewhere?

Bill S.

rstekeur

That would be the best choice Bill, except I have some free time coming up in the next 2-3 weeks and It looks doubtfull on getting a dle30 or 35 in that time frame, and the choices in the 30-40cc size seem pretty limited. I have an OS gt33 on the way. I hope to get out flying in time. I'm going single battery with a battery eliminator filter from Troybuild so I hope to keep the weight down.

railfly

My Feedback: (1)

you will have to cut a hole in the firewall so the carburator can fit behind the firewall so you have the proper clearance for the prop and cowl. I dont think you will for the dle 35. troy models handles the zdz engines and parts . A picture somewhere on this forum shows a dle 30 mounted and they did not cut into the firewall The dle35 is a rear exhaust but I done think it is any different as far as spacing the muffler fits under the carb and the standoff holes are wider for the muffler to clear. The ignition is rated for 7.5 volts which is nice can run a lifepo or lithium ion or run the ignition cutoff.

rstekeur

Can anyone tell me how to set the incedence without a meter. I want to set it to +1 degree to make it easier to fly to start with.

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Buy one!

Its worth it. I have several and use them all when setting up a plane before final gluing.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXET66&P=7


Bill S.

rstekeur

Thanks Bill, I guess I can use a level to get the top wing level with the bottom and then raise the front a 1/4"

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

Set it on a level surface and measure the difference, from the surface, between the leading and trailing edges

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

But does 1/4" equal 1 degree?

I have used levels in the past as well just to check that things were at zero but I don't think there much good for any more then that.

belong to a club? if so, someone must have one you can borrow.

Harbor Freight also has a nice digital gauge one that can be used with RC with a little thought.

Bill S.

rstekeur

rstekeur

All done with the Waco except for setting the Incidense which I'll do tonight so I might fly it sunday. I ended up with a OS gt33 for a motor. Didn't have to cut the firewall and it fit nice. I had to mount the cowl as far forward as I could. Where's a good place to start as far as the incidense. I want it to fly easy to start. Should I set it at 0 or +1

rstekeur

What do you use for the datum line in setting the incedence, level the horizontal stab?

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

Use the bottom wing and set the top wing 0 - +1.5 degree relative to the bottom wing for gentle flight. Be aware though the plane tends to balloon a bit if you set it full 1.5 deg positive.
I have mine set at 0 degrees and it is quite good

rstekeur

It's all ready to go, if I can get a chance to tune the engine it might go flying sunday.