olstoney

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Morning All,
Off to the hobby shop at 9am to pick up the Dubro hinges. I admit to not having read all of the posts, but you guys must be replacing all of the cheap plastic horns on the control surfaces. What have you guys been using?? I'm going to look at the Dubro 5-40 and 6-32 and go from there. Might as well get most of the hardware at once.

kroflite54

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i must admit.i've never used ca hinges .i've always used the dubro pinned hinges.and prob will on the u-cando.After i epoxy them in,i always drill a hole in the top of each hinge and and push a toothpick in the hole and glue it.Just over kill but i feel much better about the hinge staying put.

ken.

lord lucan

Oldstoney, Joe and everybody...
Fairly whizzing along with the UCD now..the Irvine carbon rods and chrome plated ends are superb ..so sleek.. Glued and bolted the horz stab in situ....all controll surface hinged and mounted, " small " # 117 Du-Bro pinned hinges & Du-Bro heavy duty horns ...all servos & ext'n leads routed ...Belly pan mounted and affixed with....silicone adhesive / sealant, have a look...[:-]..... wheel pants sorted as per recomendations, ie DONT cut the end of the axel shaft ,route it through the other side of the pant ....GP balance machine out later for gear placement... Pukka O.S. remote glow to fit, along with fueling valve.... couple of other twiddly bits then thats about it....Oh ...canopy...!

olstoney

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Lord Lucan,
What size or Dubro part number horns did you use did you use them on the ailerons as well?I'll be on the way to get them shortly. Thanks olstoney...

AcroJo

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Lord, I myself have often struggled with this quandry. Many sleepless nights spent lamenting over this mechanical challenge. When inverting an engine must one compensate in some manner? Are the lugs that stick out on either side of the engine block centered to the thrust line of the engine? If so, at 3/16" thickness for the Saito 100 is the top of the engine mount struts engineered from the factory to fall 3/32" below the thrust line of the model, where simply turning the engine upside down results in the same line? For now, what I can offer is that on this model from the bottom of the fuse to the center mark indication on the side of the engine mount it is between 4" and 4 1/16" I would like to say that it is supposed to be 4 1/32" up but I am not sure if the mount is on squarely without further investigation.

Stoney, I used the HD control horns from "Dubro" unfortunatly, I do not have the catalog numbers. This will require a little gum shoe investigation on your part.

Ken, You must go way back. Thats an old trick with benificial results at the same time offering peace of mind, especially with the larger control surfaces. I peg them on my combat plane. With the pinned hinges, so far all I've done was to rough the surface with sand paper to ensure a good bond. Joe

kroflite54

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hi joe.

yes, you can say i go back a few years ,i've been flying ro planes for 37 years and some of the old ways still work good.but new ways are in a lot of cases better.I,m always learning and asking questions .I'm trying to finish up on my robinhood 80 and then start on the u-cando-60.doesn't seem to be enough time in the day and i've only just retired 2 weeks ago.lol

ps. your control rods and set up look great bud.

ken

kroflite54

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sorry lord lucan .it was your control set up i was commenting on .nice looking set-up.i just got the names mixed up.I do suffer from brain farts once in awhile lol.



ken

lord lucan

Joe , Stoney et all...
Had some more Du- Bro horns and stuff arrive from Tower this morning ..stock # for horns is DUBQ1885 or LXEMF9..$5.69 for two..see photo.. sexy stuff ..!

Joe..Yeah.. when you posted that photo up of that engine/engine mount set-up..basically you were going to be the thicknes of your eng mount lugs shy of your centre line...

Whichever way up you mount that GP eng mount , the bearer face of the mount ,ie the one with the webs attatched to it will allways be on the centre line....

I was led to believe that all (generally speaking) engines had the centre of thier crankshaft in line with the bottom face of thier eng lugs, so...Hell, ! You know the rest..!

At least we did'nt get to the stage where a faulty cowl was brought into question..!

Joe, you ain't been near any drapes have you...?

The reason i wasent 101% sure this morning was that i ,personally, had never mounted a Saito...(Whoa..!, dont knock it till you've tried it..) so THIS (Saito) could have been the exception to the rule... keep us posted later..!

AAArrrrggghhhhh.!...Ther'e back.!...with blow up sea-horses and god knows what...!
more later ...I'm bound to get in a tangle with this GP balancing machine thingy...TTFN.

lord lucan

Hang on......!...What am I doing...! sending photos and stock # of items BACK to you guys in the country from which I'VE just paid a kings Ransom for, to import here...

olstoney

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AHHHHH!!!
Lord, Joe and all, Just got back from the hobby shop and glad I flew by the seat of my pants on the control horns. Checked the thread when I got home and got the same parts Lucan just got, After momma gets Easter breakfast I can start building. I am really finding the tips you guys provide to be helpful and I really appreciate it and hope you don't think I'll become a pain in the arse!! I am really just a sport flier and will set this airplane up with the right parts but will be real conservative control throws. I am into having a realaxing time, not worring about busting up a good investment getting crazy. That being said, do you guys really think it is necessary for me to do the engine offset thing and all that other stuff??

Rocketman_

kroflite54,

I'm from the era of toothpick pinned hinges also and you shouldn't feel that it is overkill. I remember when Klett hinges hit the market and how great we thought they were but we sure did secure them with epoxy and toothpicks. Back then when you were hot dogging around the sky with 100mph+ models you used toothpicks if you expected the model to last. I think some people have not kept a model flying long enough to find out that oil, vibration and the rigors of many flights will loosen hinges.
By the way, CA hinges work well too and are quick and easy to install. They can have their faults though. Some can be a little stiff. Some people have models that are CA hinge killers and there don't seem to be any universally accepted explanations for that.

AcroJo

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Stoney, even if you are not into 3D I would still recomend right thrust. Under acceleration it pulls left. Hands free, under power, it will circle the field in a left hand pattern. Joe

olstoney

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Joe,
Is there an easier way to get the right thrust?? I plan to use the factory supplied motor mount. Although I have no problem getting the Ernst shims that you guys have been talking about they look like they would cover up the hole in the firewall where the fuel lines exit. I'll probably leave the fuel tank in the factory location for right now. Could I just drill some holes in some aluminum flat stock and slide that under one side of the factory mount?? That should not indent the firewall as much as flat washers do. I'm not sure that I could accurately drill four holes in that Ernst shim.

AcroJo

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Sure, flat stock will work better than washers. It all depends on how anal you want to get. I have just measured the plate and 1/16" equals roughly 1 degree, contrary to a statement that I made earlier when I said 1/8" is 3 degrees. The flat stock will leave a larger footprint and distribute the surface area with less chance of compression. Now the measurement that I just took is at the thickest point of the tapered shim, which sits to the outside of the mount. Considering how wide your aluminum strap is, being rectangular, it will sit in from the edge of the mount and add to the degrees so, you may want to taper it slightly. As far as marking and drilling the Ernst thrust plates. I cut a template from paper to the size of the plate, struck some crosshairs on it with a pencil, lined it up on the firewall and marked the holes. Now all you gotta do is lay it on the plate and transfer the marks. Then drill the center for your fuel lines. Joe

olstoney

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Thanks Joe,
Am I correct then to think that I would then have to move the whole motor mount slightly to the left of the "tick marks" to center the crankshaft in the cowling??

By the way, did you mention something in an earlier post about getting a Wildhare?? My friend just got done putting his Wildhare Giles together. It is one hell of an airplane, quality stuff here. I don't know how they do it for the price. I am so impressed I have been talking with Tom out there about the Edge 540T. I can't decide on going with a G-62 or something more exotic. I think the G-62 although heavier is a better all around choice. They run forever, go in alot of airframes and with CH ignition start easy. Oh well time to stop dreaming and get this one done first.

AcroJo

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I've heard nothing but good about WildHare and the price is hard to believe. I've been eyeballin the 28% Extra LS. Mmmmm WildHare. With a DA 50. Mmmmm DA 50. I should have bought one instead of another UCD. THe money was there. Think about it, I took a pretty straight forward $200.00 plane that could have been packaged out at around $500.00 complete. With my lust for technology I have now managed to turn this thing into an $1100.00 flying goodie bag with no garantee that this one won't go on a dirt diet like the others. Back to your question. Yes you must shift the engine to the side so the spinner will line up where it exits the cowl. Joe

olstoney

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Joe,
When I was talking with Tom about engines, he really liked the MVVS 60. Problem is they are really hard to get. I try to stay away from rear carb engines. I don't like cutting BIG holes in a firewall!! Best warranty I have found is with a Brison 5 freak years and if you bust a crank on a crash they will fix that for one time free. If you order the Brison from Wildhare, it comes with CH electronic ignition eliminating the mechanical advance problems. For the price Tom charges it is a deal. After many discussions, I am inclined to go with the G-62, it just seems more versatile. I'll order the Ernst shims, do I mget the .60 size??

AcroJo

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You are correct sir! .60 size it is. I like the rear exhaust, do a nice cannister muffler. I'm not keen on something like a Pitts style muffler. Too loud and I don't know if its a lack of back pressure or what, but the engines really break up. I wish the Saito was a rear exhaust. Joe

rfw1953

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OK you guys. You are really getting serious with this bird. I used Dubro control arms, but not HD. I used the standard size. Here is the web link for what I used. Dave, really nice shots and your control linkage really looks strong.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD932&P=7

I didn't add any offset and didn't use pinned hinges. I used Radio South CA hinges and added two additional for the ailerons, but only used three each for the elevators and rudder. I flew the plane again today. Got about six flights in and about the same on the WM Extra. I have 50+ flights on mine with no slop in the conrol linkage. I noticed today that the remote glow connection had somehow separated after my last flight with the wire hanging free. I guess it was a bad solder job. Other than this and the cowling screws eating a bit in the cowling, everything is holding together very well. I have really been putting it through the paces and holding nothing back.

I will be interested to hear how the offset helps the flying charicteristics. When I take the cowling off to repair the remote glow I am going to move the battery back on the CG. I am having a ball with mine. How soon before some maiden flight reports on the new birds?

lord lucan

Gents..
On the balance m/c ...no major probs...except you need to lay some sheeting of some description accros the wing for the pads to sit on..
Got the tank mounted with a nice Du-Bro filter ...photo...
Semi fitted the remote glow....jury is still out on fueling valve requirements...got a GP valve but not sure if its the way to go
Going to a R/C " Event/show /trade do" up north today, will be looking for some goodies.... dearnt bring anything major back...i'll get disbared...or should that be... dismembered..! ...will take camera.
Oh..!.. most important thing.. have you guys,and if so, what to, set your dual rates up for this little lady..? Or, is it just instant , sheer , unswitchable offabble....terror..? TTFN

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Morning And Happy Easter Gents,

I have to take momma to breakfast this morning, then I'm going to start on this airplane. Still waiting for my engine to arrive from Quantum. Servos are on the way as well. Guess I'll start ironing out the covering and trimming the slots in the control surfaces for the hinges and get those installed. I am still mulling over installing a fuel filler as they can be troublesome and going with a 3 line system instead. Has anyone tried an onboard glow driver yet vs a remote glow adaptor?? If anyone is interested, I located a super deal on a new Brison 4.2. I would buy it myself but can't swing the funds right now. Joe?? This engine is selling for less than a new G-62!! Planning to fly tomorrow if it doesn't rain......

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Yesterday we wrestled with a heli at the field. Traced the problem to a remote glo hook up, which, along with past incidences, only fortifies my feelings that those things are more hassle than they are worth. I've been doing a hole in the bottom of the cowl, in which a long neck glow driver fits right into. If the plane is not on a bench, I agree, it is a little difficult, but definatly glitch free. My ambitions for a gasser are now on the back burner until I recover from this investment. Hopefully my dreams will be realized later this season. Took mine to the field yesterday for a maiden after we did field repairs. The wind was relentless, no way with this kite. Will try again. That reminds me, I need a fuel filter raising the price tag a little higher. Joe

rfw1953

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olstoney - I know there has been much negative press regarding fuel valves. I have been using for years with never a problem. The guy who passed this along to me has been using them for as long as they have been available and likewise, never a problem. if you let an airplane sit up for a long while the rubber seals can dry out which can allow air to create a problem. Likewise, a crash into the dirt can cause dirt to create problems. One thing for sure, the valve sure keeps the fuel from flooding the carb and makes refilling a very easy. Now I know Joe hates the added weight, which you may also want to consider [8D]. For those guys with flooding problems this may be the cure.

I also put a remote glow on mine. I took a piece of brass and twisted it to mount to one of the engine mounting bolts and then used socket head wood screws to mount to the cowling hard point. For the fuel valve I used a thin piece of ply and made the mount and then notched out a slot for the mount to fit near the firewall. Both have held strong and worked justed fine. I did have the remote glow wire come loose yesterday due to a bad soldering connection on the wire going into the remote glow. The wire came already attached form the mfg. I guess it just wasn't strong enough to handle the vibration or maybe I caught a wrench on it when installing the muffler. See the pictures below for both. The remote glow sure makes engine starting much easier in that you don't have to reach below the engine when mounted inverted. I just stick the glow driver on the side and fire the engine.

Happy Easter to all - He is risen!!!

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Roger, Happy Easter. The quick fueler is a must regardless of any weight penalty. The only reason one is not on this model is that with the cline regulator I had to go fuel dots, first time, we'll see how I make out. My comments on the remote glo attachment and the item I really would like to try, the remote glo driver is basically how it connects to the glo plug. Just dosn't seem substantial. Now if there was a way to thread the little probe on the end of the plug and use a nut to secure the wire, then I would be satisfied. I've never used one and from what I've seen at the field, it could just be bad installations on the modelers part. Don't know. BTW, did you recieve the cowl binders yet and have a chance to install them? Joe

rfw1953

My Feedback: (2)

Sullivan has a good locking device for the remote glow. This isn't a glow driver that provides on board power to the glow plug. It's simply a relay of power for allowing the pilot to to have side access to a remote glow that transfers the power from the ni-starter to the glow plug via the remote glow to the glow plug on the engine. The remote glow mounts hard with a nut to secure it to the mounting bracket I made for mine. This all fits nicely and is secured well. The problem I had was that the soldering job on the wire to the remote glow had separated due I believe to vibration, or I had caught hold of it with a wench when installing the muffler and possibly pulled it loose. Honestly, I think it was just a bad soldering job, but haven't had any problems with the long stem connector to the engine. It locks in place and has worked very well making starting much easier. I have actually read about guys starting their planes upside down because of not having easier access to the glow plug or due to carb flooding.

I haven't ordered the cowling snaps as of yet because I have mine already installed with the rubber gourmets that are working fine for now. I will no doubt use these on future models, or if I have to replace the gourmets later on.

Really looking forward to hearing how your new bird flies. Post some pictures and give us a report after. Good luck and hope all goes well.