tugman69

My Feedback: (15)

Thank you for the help This looks like it is going to be a very fun plane

tugman69

My Feedback: (15)

Will one of you please tell me whwere to purchase the cline regulator thank you

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Cline and Associates 807 Alpha road-Box 44 Alpha, Ohio 45301 Phone937) 426-4167 Fax: (937) 426-7711 $60.00
Check out the 'Perry Pump' as well. One showed up at our field and works nicely. Works off the vibration of the engine. Does not regulate fuel, just pumps it. good luck, Joe

gjeffers

here is the perry link:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDG61&P=ML

here is the cline link:

http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/produc...fs_details.htm

good luck

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

There's also the Iron Bay regulator http://www.ironbaymodelcompany.com/W...Regulator.html

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

I've got a UCD 60 that I plan on putting a Saito 100 in. I've read on here some of you not all have had alittle trouble with excess fuel and some idol problems. Barry suggested a loop in the fuel line, which sounds like it would work. But my question is , is it possible to mount the Saito horizontal on the UCD 60??? Seems like that line the tank and carb would line up better since the tank sits so high in the UCD. Just a idea and was wondering if it is all possible. If not I'll go with the loop in the fuel line. Lookin forward to getting this bird in the air! Thanks, JT

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Back up to post #1298. Rajul has his in the upright position. The head comes up out of the cowl, as it would if it were mounted horizontally, but who cares. Bottom line is performance over looks. Joe

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Right on bro ! In fact I don't even use a cowl. Flies 3D great though........

cherokeeARF

Hey guys,
Can anyone tell me how well the U-Can-Do 3D .60 flies with the tower hobbies .75 engine, thanks. Would have gotten a Saito if could have afforded it.

Thanks.
Cory

Barry Cazier

My Feedback: (17)

Can't say for sure because I've only had a Saito 100 on the front of mine but my guess is you would have a real fun airplane. I would think it would fly very good. It might not have the instant throttle response we've grown to love with the big 4 storkes but everything else would be about equal. Just my guess.
Thanks,
Barry

rmenke

My Feedback: (13)

Hve had my 60 size UCD-3d for about 3 years with YS110. Is my favorite airplane and the most flown. Never had any structural problems. I use a 16-4 apc wide as it gives more thrust to get out of trouble, where I am a lot. Is a great airframe. If you can't hover and troque roll one of these, go back to girls.

rcguy1

I used the Sullivan No. S860 tail wheel bracket and the Sullivan 1 1/4" metal hub tail wheel. This helps keep the stress off the rudder when I land hard. I cut out about 1/2 inch balsa from the tail and made an light plywood insert. The hard wood was epoxyed in place to hold the screws for the tail wheel assembly. Hope this helps. Russ

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

After three years of touching down tail wheel first my stock tail wheel is holding up fine. This thing floats in so easy. My 110 is in for service. Have to return a call to YS as it may be ready, or they could have called to tell me that it is dead. In the mean time I have been running a YS 91AC with the same 16/6 that the 110 was spinning. Great power and performance. Joe

on-your-six

can some one point me to the info on the mods
needed for the 60 u can do
thanks tg

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Search the UCD .60 thread in 3D flying. Can't miss it as it is huge. Good reading, Joe

Snaproll John

My Feedback: (56)

Could I get the dimensions from you as to where you cut the hole for the rudder servo opening?
Also, how long are the push rods? They look like they are so long that they would bend/put a lot of weight towards the tail?
I was wondering why you didn't use cable instead?

Thanks for the information. John.

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Servo hole location is 9 to 11-1/4 inches from the rudder hinge line or end of fuse. It puts you directly under the right side elevator. The 4/40 rods, pin to pin, is 9-3/4 inches. I went 4/40 over CF rods or wire for the needed weight in the tail. joe

jkhorvath

My Feedback: (1)

I'm building my first UCD 60 and I am concerned about pulling out the stock hinges during flight. I have done CA hinging before, but I would appreciate and feedback from this effort. I glued the hinges in using thin CA and also pinned each one (in the ailerons, elevators, and rudder) using the end of a medium T-Pin. Then, I sealed over all the hinge gaps with clear Monokote. I have attached a picture of the results. Also, the instructions seem to indicate that the hinges are supposed to go in "short end first". Mine seemed to fit better "long end first". Can anyone tell me if this should cause any problems?

Thanks in advance...Joe H.

AcroJo

My Feedback: (1)

Seems as though you have covered all the bases as far as CA hinges go. When I used to install CA hinges I would insert them the long way. I've also seen where the hing was longer than the recieving stock, so I guess it would not hurt to install them on the width. Regardless of how well they are installed, sub torque servos or a weak linkage setup will destoy them if flutter results. Good luck, Joe

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

Wow, the old UCD thread is still alive! I flew mine all fall with my YS 110 and man it was a blast!

I am about to put mine up for sale here this week. It has served me well and its time for it to move on to make someone else happy. I will miss it!

matt

jkhorvath

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the note of confidence on the CA hinging strategy. I understand that there are no guarantees, but I appreciate everyone taking a look so that anything obviously wrong could be pointed out.

To follow it up, I am also replacing the stock rear wheel with the Sullivan Tailwheel. I installed it by epoxying it to a piece of Monokoted plywood that is shaped to the bottom rear of the UCD 60. The plywood is also epoxyed it to the exposed balsa. Then the whole thing is screwed on using #4 wood screws. See the attached picture.

I am using the stock setup for the main landing gear, although I am considering drilling out the 6-32 blind nuts and replacing with stronger fasteners.

Also, I am using 4-40 pushrods on the ailerons, elevators, and rudder. Futaba S9250's power the ailerons and elevators with a Futaba S9151 on the rudder. Has anyone seen or used Dubro Heavy Duty Ball Links on both side of the 4-40 control arm like the picture shows? Note, also, the Dubro Heavy Duty Control Horns and the Dubro Super Strength Servo Arms. I have seen flutter destroy two aircrafts; it is not pretty, so I try to avoid it with strong servos and zero play in the linkages. If there is anything obviously wrong, please say so.

Thanks...Joe H.

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

just got my ucan do finshed, lost my manual for now
tower has a listing of 4&7/8 for cg from LE, seems kinda forward, is that right?
also throws? they say for 3d
ele=3
rud=4
ail=2&1/8
should i go for that and then around half for low rate?
i do fly 3d and kinda now what i'm doing as far as flying, so i don't need to baby the throws, but i would like to hear what the maunual says??

jkhorvath

My Feedback: (1)

Here is a link to the UCD 60 Manual from GP.

http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma1270-manual.pdf

4 7/8 inches back from the LE of the wing is initially correct (as per Great Planes).

I just finished building mine and I've got serious tail heavy issues with mine. It currently balances out at about 5 7/8 inches back from the LE of the wing. I trying to decide what to do about it. It looks like I need more than 6 oz. in the front to balance. Has anyone tried a Harry Higley Ultra Heavy Hub? Any recomendations for where to place weight?

Here is the control throw recomendations from Great Planes:

We recommend the following control surface throws:
High Rate Low Rate
ELEVATOR: 1-1/8" [28mm] up 3/4" [19mm] up
1-1/8" [28mm] down 3/4" [19mm] down
RUDDER: 2-1/4" [57mm] right 1-1/4" [31mm] right
2-1/4" [57mm] left 1-1/4" [31mm] left
AILERONS: 1-3/8" [35mm] up 7/8" [22mm] up
1-3/8" [35mm] down 7/8" [22mm] down
3D Control Throws
NOTE: The 3D control throws are only meant to be used
for extreme aerobatics. These are not meant for normal
flying. Be confident using your dual rate switches before
utilizing these rates.
ELEVATOR: 3" [75mm] up
3" [75mm] down
RUDDER: 4" [100mm] right
4" [100mm] left
AILERONS: 2-1/8" [55mm] up
2-1/8" [55mm] down

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

thanks for the info, helps alot, mine balances around 5-5&1/4 with no weight, i am going to leave it there, i see some people go back even farther and say it still lands nice, no balooning, i am hoping to get out this coming weekend for its maiden flight, i have a satio 100 in it, should be good i think, we are around 5000' so thats why i think i needed a bigger motor, what are you running that it is so light in the front??
and i do feel comfortable with the dual rate switch, i have a yak, had an edge and a funtana in the past, so i set those up the same way, 3d rates and usually ended up between recomended low rate and high rate for my low rate, i use expo too, that helps...this will be my 1st fat wing type floater, i am looking forward to seeing how she flies...

jkhorvath

My Feedback: (1)

I am using an OS FS 91 w/pump in the front. I think that the reason it is so tail heavy is because I used the OS Aluminum engine mount which does not place the engine out in front far enough. I also used 4-40 rods all around and a Sullivan tailwheel, which adds weight to the rear.

I am really upset about having to add any weight at all to the plane. Plus, I won't be able to use my Tru-Turn spinner because now I will have a Harry Higley Ultra Heavy Hub on the nose.