Kyosho gee bee
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From: Bemis,
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A .90 ? You are jumping from a .46 to a .90 ??????
"free horsepower" ?????? God bless you my friend.
Have you ever seen one of these fly with just a midiocre .60 in it ?
With that size prop turning, you are really going to have a problem slowing it down enough for landing.
"free horsepower" ?????? God bless you my friend.
Have you ever seen one of these fly with just a midiocre .60 in it ?
With that size prop turning, you are really going to have a problem slowing it down enough for landing.
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From: oberndorf, AUSTRIA
again:
OS MAX 91FX (it fits inside the cowl without any cutting) and 13x11 APC
best flying performance
worth considering to mount the engine upside down for better gras field operation
mec
OS MAX 91FX (it fits inside the cowl without any cutting) and 13x11 APC
best flying performance
worth considering to mount the engine upside down for better gras field operation
mec
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From: Roscoe,Il
Ok, need more help.
My options are : OS .91FX or the Saito 100 (weighs 3.5oz. less than the .91FX.)
Which one is best considering the weight and balance of the aiplane? Or should I go with a Saito.72 which is 7oz. less than a .61 FX?
Basically, I want to select an appropriate engine that will not require adding any additional weight (for a normal CG), front or back.
Thanks
My options are : OS .91FX or the Saito 100 (weighs 3.5oz. less than the .91FX.)
Which one is best considering the weight and balance of the aiplane? Or should I go with a Saito.72 which is 7oz. less than a .61 FX?
Basically, I want to select an appropriate engine that will not require adding any additional weight (for a normal CG), front or back.
Thanks
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From: oberndorf, AUSTRIA
i use the OS 91FX with tuned krumscheid muffler.
i had to add weight near the engine, therefore i mounted an onboard glow system with one Sanyo 2000 accu.
mec
i had to add weight near the engine, therefore i mounted an onboard glow system with one Sanyo 2000 accu.
mec
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From: canton, ohio
I like to overpower things as much as the next guy and i felt that Kyosho's specs as far as engine sizes was a little undersized but, come on, twice the recomended sizes, how fast is yours going with a piped .91?, i would think that a normal .60 two stroke or maybe even a ys.61 if you wanted a rocket. probably the best all around overpowered engine for this ship would be a ys .63 and it will be faster than the Saito .72 and real close to the Saito 100.
I have a spare Chevy 350 if you need a little more vertical!! it would probably just about fit in that big Gee Bee cowl too.
Gee Bee Jim, what did you use on yours and what is the vertical like?, how much nose weight did you have to add?
I have a spare Chevy 350 if you need a little more vertical!! it would probably just about fit in that big Gee Bee cowl too.
Gee Bee Jim, what did you use on yours and what is the vertical like?, how much nose weight did you have to add?
#31
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From: pittsfield,
IL
Just got some info on the status of the Gee Bee Z from Kyosho! not much but its something.
The model had been redesigned. The wings had some manufacturing problems.
I hope you find this information helpful. Should you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us at this email address. Please be sure to copy all previous emails into any future questions. If you would like to speak to us directly, you are welcome to contact us at 217-398-8970 or by fax at 217-398-7721
Sincerely,
Kraig
Product Support Technician
Great Planes Model Distributors
Also you may want to check our Website at (http://www.greatplanes.com)
"no autoresponder"
>>> josh chaplin <[email protected]> 07/01/02 10:48PM >>>
Hello!
I noticed the Gee Bee Z from Kyosho is what seems to be in short supply. Could you tell me if the model is being redesigned and if so what are the changes being made?
I would like to know this before I purchase one of these exceptional looking models.
Thanks
Josh
The model had been redesigned. The wings had some manufacturing problems.
I hope you find this information helpful. Should you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us at this email address. Please be sure to copy all previous emails into any future questions. If you would like to speak to us directly, you are welcome to contact us at 217-398-8970 or by fax at 217-398-7721
Sincerely,
Kraig
Product Support Technician
Great Planes Model Distributors
Also you may want to check our Website at (http://www.greatplanes.com)
"no autoresponder"
>>> josh chaplin <[email protected]> 07/01/02 10:48PM >>>
Hello!
I noticed the Gee Bee Z from Kyosho is what seems to be in short supply. Could you tell me if the model is being redesigned and if so what are the changes being made?
I would like to know this before I purchase one of these exceptional looking models.
Thanks
Josh
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From: Bemis,
NM
[i]
Gee Bee Jim, what did you use on yours and what is the vertical like?, how much nose weight did you have to add? [/B]
Gee Bee Jim, what did you use on yours and what is the vertical like?, how much nose weight did you have to add? [/B]
When I make a low pass over the runway, I want to be able to read the numbers on the side of that old 1931 racer.
Vertical is the furthest thing from my mind. Shame on you for even thinking that way. This is a 1931 Gee Bee racer. Ya wanna go fast and vertical, build a Diamond Dust, but give that old timer a little respect. But I can't stop you from being stupid, ( different strokes for different folks, right ? ) so if y'all want to put an OS 1.60 in it, go right ahead. Just be sure to report back here in a few weeks and tell me what you have left.
I've been flying mine with a TT .46 for about a year now, and it goes like a scalded cat. Takeoffs and landings are smooth as silk. It flys at a scale like speed, "On the Wing" ( I know that some of you will not understand that statement ); it loops, rolls, flys inverted, and is a delightful little plane to fly. It really looks it's best flying by you at a scale speed, not Mach 2.5.
I balanced mine at 25%, and it wasn't really a problem. I built a little bracket directly under the engine, and mounted the battery pack on it. Lotsa room under that big ole cowl, so get ya stuff up front, and ditch them hardwood push rods and use plastic in plastic. Keeps the tail lighter.
I sincerely wish y'all the good luck that I have had with mine.
Jim
Did I read Saito 100 back there ? Sheech ! Go for the 180.
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From: oberndorf, AUSTRIA
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jim Lynch
[B]
Guys, ya gotta understand my criteria. I BUILD AND FLY SCALE !
When I make a low pass over the runway, I want to be able to read the numbers on the side of that old 1931 racer.
Vertical is the furthest thing from my mind. Shame on you for even thinking that way. This is a 1931 Gee Bee racer. Ya wanna go fast and vertical, build a Diamond Dust, but give that old timer a little respect. But I can't stop you from being stupid,
hi jim,
i respect your posts showing that you are THE expert on the GeeBees.
i agree that it is very delightful to see a scale-like flight and plane.
but do you think, that the Granville Brothers wanted to be able to read the numbers on the side of that old racer? as you stated, the plane is and was a racer. as far as i know the GBroth built such a hugh fuselage to be able to mount the biggest, most powerful engine available the days in 1930.
there are videos in www, showing the incredible speed at a low pass of the GeeBee. which speed is scale, to your mind? mine with the OS91 seems to be slow (compared to the full size one).
i think flying the old timer fast is the only way to give it a little respect (cause thats what it was built for).
do you still think thats stupid?
mec
[B]
Guys, ya gotta understand my criteria. I BUILD AND FLY SCALE !
When I make a low pass over the runway, I want to be able to read the numbers on the side of that old 1931 racer.
Vertical is the furthest thing from my mind. Shame on you for even thinking that way. This is a 1931 Gee Bee racer. Ya wanna go fast and vertical, build a Diamond Dust, but give that old timer a little respect. But I can't stop you from being stupid,
hi jim,
i respect your posts showing that you are THE expert on the GeeBees.
i agree that it is very delightful to see a scale-like flight and plane.
but do you think, that the Granville Brothers wanted to be able to read the numbers on the side of that old racer? as you stated, the plane is and was a racer. as far as i know the GBroth built such a hugh fuselage to be able to mount the biggest, most powerful engine available the days in 1930.
there are videos in www, showing the incredible speed at a low pass of the GeeBee. which speed is scale, to your mind? mine with the OS91 seems to be slow (compared to the full size one).
i think flying the old timer fast is the only way to give it a little respect (cause thats what it was built for).
do you still think thats stupid?
mec
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From: Bemis,
NM
Get with the program MEC, read my post more carefully.
I just posted " My Criteria " ! No one else in this wonderful R/C hobby of ours needs to agree with it.
I just posted " My Criteria " ! No one else in this wonderful R/C hobby of ours needs to agree with it.
#36
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From: Tampa, FL
For any of you guys that really want a GeeBee Z and cant get the arf The adrian Page kit is available. I'm Almost done with mine and it has been a delight to build. It has a Saito 56 4S in it. All laser cut and stuff and it is going to be very light! Just another option if they are not available.
Also if someone asks "Is that an ARF" You can just say NO
Also if someone asks "Is that an ARF" You can just say NO
#37
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From: Klamath Falls,
OR
I believe the actual wording in the Tower Talk was "Back by popular demand"
Dang it, I can't find the TT to verify that, but I thought that's what I saw. It did say new on the front cover. Maybe they mean not previously used

Now that's a clever advertising angle.
Dan
Dang it, I can't find the TT to verify that, but I thought that's what I saw. It did say new on the front cover. Maybe they mean not previously used


Now that's a clever advertising angle.Dan
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From: Philadelphia,
PA
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From: kirkmichael, UNITED KINGDOM
I was at the large model meet at la ferte alais in france last year and two stands had stacks of GB's for sale. perhaps if you search for european model shops you may find somewhere with a stock of them. most kyosho stuff comes out stateside first, but this must have been an exception.
#41
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From: Bay Area, CA,
I have seen this kit at our LHS. It's a pretty nice looking kit.
I have the Adrian Page GeeBee R2 and I have talked to Adrian Page and found out that he has updated his Gee Bee Z kit to use many of the new designs in the R2 Kit.
If I had to make a choice on the Z - I would choose to build the Adrain Page GeeBee Z. But that's ONLY because I like to build 'em. If I didn't have a love for that part of the hobby I would pick up the ARF in the blink of an eye. Again - The kit that I saw was beautiful.
I am thinking of putting a 91 FX in my Adrian Page Gee Bee R2.. and just flying 1/2 throttle.
I can not wait to finish that kit! Of corse.. I could pick up the Z arf.. just to get used to how they fly.... (heheehe)
Ted
I have the Adrian Page GeeBee R2 and I have talked to Adrian Page and found out that he has updated his Gee Bee Z kit to use many of the new designs in the R2 Kit.
If I had to make a choice on the Z - I would choose to build the Adrain Page GeeBee Z. But that's ONLY because I like to build 'em. If I didn't have a love for that part of the hobby I would pick up the ARF in the blink of an eye. Again - The kit that I saw was beautiful.
I am thinking of putting a 91 FX in my Adrian Page Gee Bee R2.. and just flying 1/2 throttle.

I can not wait to finish that kit! Of corse.. I could pick up the Z arf.. just to get used to how they fly.... (heheehe)
Ted
#42
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From: Klamath Falls,
OR
I love to build too. But I don't have that precious commodity....time. As an example, I have been working on a Spacewalker II. Just finished painting the wing, and have the fuse masked right now. Started building it six years ago. Yuck.
So these higher quality ARFs have really been a boon to me. I bought the Cermark Pitts after seeing it. Fun Plane!!!
Otherwise I would forget how to fly beween projects
Dan
So these higher quality ARFs have really been a boon to me. I bought the Cermark Pitts after seeing it. Fun Plane!!!
Otherwise I would forget how to fly beween projects
Dan
#43
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From: Bemis,
NM
Originally posted by Capgains
I bought the Cermark Pitts after seeing it. Fun Plane!!!
Dan
I bought the Cermark Pitts after seeing it. Fun Plane!!!
Dan
It's a compact 1/4 scale, IMAA legal bird that I can take anywhere.
#45
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From: fr sq,
NY
Sorry if this is a stupid question...
I have fairly limited flight experience with my PT20 and Stik 40. Basically I love scale and especially love the Gee Bee...Time is a limited thing for me, therefore although I'm tempted to find a kir or plans for a Gee Bee "Y" (since it has a longer fuse and more forgiving moment) I lack the time to build like I used to so I'm very tempted to buy the ARF. I have a Royal .46 BNIB and it needs a home, I was seriously thinking of the Gee Bee otherwise a Hanger 9 Cap 232 (40) [I'm told the Hanger 9's are basically the finest flying ARFs on the planet]
Given me limited flight experience is it signing a death warrant to attempt to fly this kit with a .46? I see guys on here who say it flies beautifully with a .46 and I also see guys who say it's a nightmare... I have no doubt in my ability to take off and fly the kit, but my concern is the landing...is it reasonble to think I can pull it off with a .46? Any advice to offer?
Lastly, has anyone built the arf with a flapperon-setup? Does it even make sense to have flaps for slower landings or is it not useful?
thanks kindly for all the advice you guys give- and sorry if this is a foolish question, I just don't want to make a costly and heart wrenching mistake.
kindest regards
scud
I have fairly limited flight experience with my PT20 and Stik 40. Basically I love scale and especially love the Gee Bee...Time is a limited thing for me, therefore although I'm tempted to find a kir or plans for a Gee Bee "Y" (since it has a longer fuse and more forgiving moment) I lack the time to build like I used to so I'm very tempted to buy the ARF. I have a Royal .46 BNIB and it needs a home, I was seriously thinking of the Gee Bee otherwise a Hanger 9 Cap 232 (40) [I'm told the Hanger 9's are basically the finest flying ARFs on the planet]
Given me limited flight experience is it signing a death warrant to attempt to fly this kit with a .46? I see guys on here who say it flies beautifully with a .46 and I also see guys who say it's a nightmare... I have no doubt in my ability to take off and fly the kit, but my concern is the landing...is it reasonble to think I can pull it off with a .46? Any advice to offer?
Lastly, has anyone built the arf with a flapperon-setup? Does it even make sense to have flaps for slower landings or is it not useful?
thanks kindly for all the advice you guys give- and sorry if this is a foolish question, I just don't want to make a costly and heart wrenching mistake.
kindest regards
scud
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From: Klamath Falls,
OR
Hi Scud,
I don't think that's a stupid question at all. I just received a Gee Bee Z a month ago, and haven't started to put it together yet, but I am planning on overpowering (YS 63) it simply because flying a plane with a such a small wing, you know it will have to to maintain a pretty good speed to stay airborn. And that the stall speed is going to be higher than your trainer, or your stick. Having more power is going to give you the ability to get out of a bad situation.
I have seen a lot of comments that say "as far as landing goes, well this is a GeeBee" I guess that means it will be a fast lander.
My friend has the big H9 232, and it flies nicely. If you are truely limited in your flight time, and haven't really flown anything other than your two planes you mention, I think the cap may be your better choice. Even with 12 years of flying experience, and 5 years of pylon racing, I am a little apprehensive about what this Gee Bee is going to fly like.... but I always pick the planes that are different from what the other guys are flying at my field.
Good luck,
Dan
I don't think that's a stupid question at all. I just received a Gee Bee Z a month ago, and haven't started to put it together yet, but I am planning on overpowering (YS 63) it simply because flying a plane with a such a small wing, you know it will have to to maintain a pretty good speed to stay airborn. And that the stall speed is going to be higher than your trainer, or your stick. Having more power is going to give you the ability to get out of a bad situation.
I have seen a lot of comments that say "as far as landing goes, well this is a GeeBee" I guess that means it will be a fast lander.
My friend has the big H9 232, and it flies nicely. If you are truely limited in your flight time, and haven't really flown anything other than your two planes you mention, I think the cap may be your better choice. Even with 12 years of flying experience, and 5 years of pylon racing, I am a little apprehensive about what this Gee Bee is going to fly like.... but I always pick the planes that are different from what the other guys are flying at my field.
Good luck,
Dan
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From: Lester, AL
I have been flying the Gee Bee now for 4 months. I installed a Saito .56 and built it pretty much out of the box. I have since gone back and beefed up the wheel pants with wood on the inside to use screws and straps over the landing gear to mount them as described in the MAN article. The first flight was an experiance. Since the .56 was new I ran it on the rich side, but the model was still off the grass in 30 feet with a nice flat climp. It showed no tendencies to nose over and tracked straight as an arrow. I did a lot of slow work to get the feel for it and was pleased at its slow speed work. I would caution on the elevator throw to start out light as mine had a pretty bad snap with any sharp input to loop or turn. I do my landings a little flat and faster than most models I own and just hold it off at 6 inchs or so until the speed bleeds off My only complaniis on the landing gear. It is too lightly built and the grass I fly off is hard on it. The blocks in the wing are laminated plywood and a glue joint failed on the third time I took it out. The gear collapsed on taxi out for the first flight of the day. I had to reglue a joint in the wing.
Over all I think the model is a blast to fly. Not a good second plane by any means but overall very controlable.
Over all I think the model is a blast to fly. Not a good second plane by any means but overall very controlable.
#48
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From: st charles, MO,
pipescs,
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I still haven't put mine together yet. (but I did complete a SIG SE ARF). I have the OS70 4-stroke to put in the 'Z' so power should not be a problem. I imagine I'll be working on the 'Z' over the winter. Fortunately our field has a 400' paved runway so I am hoping the landing gear will last a bit longer.
If you have any other tips or hints you'd like to share about the plane please post them.
Jeff
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I still haven't put mine together yet. (but I did complete a SIG SE ARF). I have the OS70 4-stroke to put in the 'Z' so power should not be a problem. I imagine I'll be working on the 'Z' over the winter. Fortunately our field has a 400' paved runway so I am hoping the landing gear will last a bit longer.
If you have any other tips or hints you'd like to share about the plane please post them.
Jeff
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From: Lester, AL
jbrundt
my mods to the gear fairings were blocks of wood glued to the inside of the fairings for strap screws to anchor and a block of wood 1/2"X1/2"X1/4"on the inside where the axil goes through the glass. The axil whole on one side was becoming enlogated from vibration.
After a few landings the rear of the wheel pants were starting to drag due to the wire struts bending forward and I had to remove them and restraighten them.
I hold the fiberglass pan on with tape as I am still looking at gear mods.
I replaced the pushrods with heavy plastic in plastic rods
The engine you mention should be great. Everything I have read on this site talks about needing power and speed to fly. You will be suprised at its slow speed stability. I still do wheel landings as the model tends to bounce if you try to do a full stall landing
Due to the fueslage shape It tends to crab more than anything I have ever flown in a crosswind and It does do nice spins and stops spinning as soon as you release the sticks
I used the original wheels for the first few flights but have gone to a more scale wheel.
my mods to the gear fairings were blocks of wood glued to the inside of the fairings for strap screws to anchor and a block of wood 1/2"X1/2"X1/4"on the inside where the axil goes through the glass. The axil whole on one side was becoming enlogated from vibration.
After a few landings the rear of the wheel pants were starting to drag due to the wire struts bending forward and I had to remove them and restraighten them.
I hold the fiberglass pan on with tape as I am still looking at gear mods.
I replaced the pushrods with heavy plastic in plastic rods
The engine you mention should be great. Everything I have read on this site talks about needing power and speed to fly. You will be suprised at its slow speed stability. I still do wheel landings as the model tends to bounce if you try to do a full stall landing
Due to the fueslage shape It tends to crab more than anything I have ever flown in a crosswind and It does do nice spins and stops spinning as soon as you release the sticks
I used the original wheels for the first few flights but have gone to a more scale wheel.
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From: Bemis,
NM
Hi Gang: Just a couple of comments to possibly help. I flew mine again in a Demonstration flight just this past weekend. It was an AMA Showteam act demonstrating the Golden Age of Air Racing, and we had a big crowd of spectators. Done correctly, it can really be a crowd pleaser, but I'm always fortunate enough to be able to do it off of pavement, and I can see where grass could really be a problem. So Think pavement !
Secondly, remember that it uses a fiberglass fuselage, cowl, and wheel pants, which results in a high wing loading. If you load it up additionally with a big heavy engine, you are going to even increase that wing loading. I fly mine with a Thunder Tiger Pro .46; surprised ?
Thirdly, it tends to come out tail heavy, so get rid of them hardwood dowls for pushrods. I know that you are thinking that if I put a big engine up front, that it will balance better, but Up goes the wing loading with that big engine. Use your battery pack to acheive balance, mine has been placed in front of the firewall.
It moves out smartly with that little .46, flies fast enough to look like a 1931 racer, and lands like a dreamboat !
Secondly, remember that it uses a fiberglass fuselage, cowl, and wheel pants, which results in a high wing loading. If you load it up additionally with a big heavy engine, you are going to even increase that wing loading. I fly mine with a Thunder Tiger Pro .46; surprised ?
Thirdly, it tends to come out tail heavy, so get rid of them hardwood dowls for pushrods. I know that you are thinking that if I put a big engine up front, that it will balance better, but Up goes the wing loading with that big engine. Use your battery pack to acheive balance, mine has been placed in front of the firewall.
It moves out smartly with that little .46, flies fast enough to look like a 1931 racer, and lands like a dreamboat !


