I balanced my 'Stick last night. With the MVVS 1.60 gasser, ign and battery in the nose and a tuned pipe that extends past the back of the wing saddle, I had to put my RX battery in front of the fuel tanks! My servos are in the tail as was my battery pack. This thing is going to RIP. My flying buddy has a couple of flights on his identical airplane now, and even with a brand new engine it is apparent that there is no shortage of power. Early attempts at hovering still had the plane climbing at just over 1/3 throttle!

I'm putting together the same basic set up, did you use the supplied motor mounts ?? Would vibration mounts add anything?

My Ultra Stick's maiden-day was very successful! Only two beeps of down trim and it's flying straight and level! The 1.60 gasser spinning the Menz 18x8 really pulls the plane around nicley. With a slobbery rich mid-range it still flies straight up, seemingly as fast as it flys level, at about 1/2 throttle!

I am running an MVVS tuned pipe on my engine, with the servos in the tail (Hitec entry level digitals, 5475s??) the 1700mah battery pack ended up living right in the middle of the wing bay, along side the fuel tank. I added 3/4 oz of lead to the engine mount, and 2 1/4 oz of lead to the left wing tip, to couter-balance the head and pipe hanging out the right side of the fuse. This combo flies nicley, fast or slow. Landings are very easy. I am really looking forward to spending some quality time with this airplane over the season!

Well, this thread got a friend and me so fired up that we both got Ultra Stick Lites for gas. Here is my setup so far.

First Place Engines 2.4

Four Hitec 5975's for ailerons, rudder, and elevator. Wasn't sure about adding flaps but after reading all these responses I might have to. Hitec 5475 for throttle. Hitec HS-81MG for choke.

This is my first gasser (although I have another--Wild Hare G35 on order) and I wanted to use it to work through the learning process. Anyway, I'm fired up to get it flying.

This has been a great thread with lots of good information.

Good luck on you project Tweet, You are going to have a blast with that plant up-front!

Well, I finally got my Ultra Stik in the Air. Messed around for almost a month with the G26 mounted and could not get it to run properly. It started right up but surged and quit. After many helpers, I called the Techs and was about to mail the engine back. Finally, Jesper, a member with engine smarts figured out the problem. I used the black spacer that came in the box with the G26 between the carb and engine as it was thinner. The light brown spacer that came mounted on the engine stuck out to far for the throtle control rod to line up. The problem was the fuel ports in the black spacer did not line up with the engine block. I called the Techs and they told me, yea--a lot of people are having that problem, throw it away and use the other. (Some answer.) The Stik balanced on the money(I followed members suggestions setting up servos, battery etc.) I used a 12 oz tank and an 17/8 APC prop. Turns 3100 wide open. It does sound like a WW-2 German Stuka in a dive. Nothing seems to be loose but the sound has me worried.
Anyone have any suggestions. RJ Moran

Every Ultrastick I have seen whistles like that. I'm not sure exactly why.

Mine does it too... I have about 30 flights on her now with no issues, I think it sounds pretty cool!

3-D-Flyer and Tweet, Thanks, Now I won't worry. Many of my Club Members insisted that there must be a problem with the Stuke Noise. I agree, it does sound cool. RJ

They're just jealous.

I have all the stuff (FPE 2.4, servos, the airplane) but haven't put mine together yet. I can't wait to do so (time, time, time).

O.K. guys, I just totaled my Ultra Stick in a mid air Monday and I'm going to build another. Hey, it's only money right? Wife didn't think so. So here's the deal, I've read almost every post here and learned a lot. This stick is going to have a G26 on it. I just got tired of fiddling with the Super Tigre even though I had it dialed in perfectly on it's last flight. So, what would you guys do different the second time around building an USL? Do I have to put the servos in the tail to get it to balance with the G26? My Super Tigre powered stick balanced perfectly with the batteries in the tail and I'm pretty new to this stuff and don't feel like doing the servo mod. I should have it Thursday and in the air Saturday if the engine install goes ok. This is such a great flying airplane I had to have another.Thanks,

Todd

Well, I just bought a new Saito 180 for mine today. Before I did that I gave a LOT of thought to a G26. If I would have deiced to go G 26 I would get one of the conversions from RCIGN. They seem to be stronger and lighter than a stock G26. I am going with the big SAITO to keep the weight down.
Ron

Everybody says those are great engines but I'm tired of wiping glow oil off my plane at the end of the day. That's why I'm going gas. I forgot about the converted engines, if the G26 has the power of my 2300 st then power won't be a problem!

Todd

Suitcase changed his old US 120 from a 3000 ST to a g-26. At first while the engine was new it was a dog but after more running time it has gotten stonger and stronger. Gas sure is cleaner and the engine is more reliable. A midair with a big tree has cased him to purchase a new US 120 Lite for his G-26. He is putting the servos in the tail and the fuel tank under the wing. Its not a hard mod to make and it sure is better than hauling extra lead just to balance. I can't wait to fly it. 2 1/2 lbs lighter with the same engine ,sounds like fun!

Back when i built mine i recieved a NIB saito 180 in a trade deal. I had considered it for the US Lite but sold it here on RCU as i knew it was quite the thirsty engine, the funds i recieved for the engine and a little more out of pocket set me up with the Brison 2.4. 1.50- $2.00 a gallon for gas and not having to de-slime after the day was worth the expence! It has ridiculous power, however a have read reviews of this plane with the big saito up front and they said it is quite the performer..... Just think of all the weight savings! It should be a blast, will be looking forward to hearing how it flys. Good luck!

Hi all, I currently have a USL with a Saito 180, and plan to move the saito to a H9 Super Cub, that I will not fly much, maybe twice a moth, and I have a Fuji 32 that I initially was going to install in the Super Cub and now plan to install on the USL that I fly every weekend , I know I would have to cut the firewall.

Do yo think I will have to put alot of weight in the tail? The engine weight is 1.7 KG.

Sould I leave the saito on the ultrastick and install the fuji on the H9 Super Cub?

What do you think?

Thanks in advance

I am building my second USL right now. Learned a couple valuable lessons with the first one. Stock servos dont work on the elevator (first crash) Upgraded to hitech 645 on 6v. I also moved the servos to the rear of the fuse mounted vertically as shown early in the post. I made a trap door in the bottom of the plane to put the battery in and out, used a 1200mah 6v nmh battery. The only other area of concern for me is the wing bolt down plate. It pulled out on the final flight of USL-1. USL-2 will have a little more beef in that area. As for the joiner and the front dowels, the wing did not come apart in the crash and i could not break it at the joint even with may foot on it when i was breaking it up for the burning ceremony. The fuse all broke apart at the factory seams so the glue is the limit of the structural integrety.

I use an osfs 120 with a supercharger on it. Makes it a little nose heavy with the extra weight and the moter sits right out at the end of the stock mount but the servos and battery in the tail help to offset it. I think as long as the weight is forward and rear when you go to hover it makes it easier with the weight right behind the prop and in the tail. I run a 16X8 apc now and im going to an 18X6 on the new one.

I also use a hitek hs81 for a throttle servo to save a little weight up front. I think i will try the mid mount tank this time, had not considered that before.

The saito 180 will do well on the plane as well, i have one on my bipe and love it. The super charger just makes it sound so much better. Unlimited vertical and wing screaming speed. Hopefully USL-2 lasts a little longer that the first one did.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm under construction and my only issue to work out is the mounting of the G26. I've looked over Deserthog's setup and I'm still trying to decide if I will copy it of modify it. I was thinking about attaching the wooden plate to the engine with the counter sunk screws and then attaching the plated and engine with 440 allen screws through the blind nuts that are already there. Good? Bad?

Todd

O.K. Got my plane all finished and ready to head to the airport. One problem though, can't start the engine(G26). I did get it to start yesterday after a lot of tries and it ran great. Tried it again and it finally started again. Today I got it running for a few seconds and that's it. After I choke it, I flip it a few times and it pops but never runs. Any ideas?

Todd

todhog,

Sorry you are having problems getting your G26 started. I have one in my UltraStick Lite also and love the airplane. I haven't found the sweet spot for starting it yet either. If fact, today I had to resort to using the 19v cordless drill. It won't start the engine very well, but it will get it to pop, then I hand start it with one or two flips. Normally, I can get the engine to start by hand. Make sure your mixture screws are set to the factory recommendations and the spark plug is tight, mine wasn't.

My local hobby shop recommended setting the prop at the 1:00 position with the piston just starting to move into the compression stroke. Make sure the engine has gas to it.
1. Close the choke completely.
2. Open the throttle all the way.
3. Ignition on
4. With the prop at the 1:00 position, take a good swing and wack the prop with your hand....don't forget to use a thick glove. Continue to do this until you hear the engine pop.
5. When the engine pops, open the choke completely, close the throttle completely, than open it one or two clicks.
6. Again, with the prop at the 1:00 position, wack the prop.

I hope this works for you. It is a good little engine and gets better as it breaks in. However, I did have a few struggles through the learning curve since it is my first gas engine, and became the master of dead stick landings...probably had at least a dozen.

1. On my setup the vent hole on the metal cover for the gas metering diaphragm faced forward and was affected by the wind and prop wash. The engine ran great on the ground, but ran horrible in the air. It ran very rich. I soldered a brass fitting to the plate and routed it to the inside of the fuselage. That solved this problem. Do a search in RCU and you will find information on it.

2. If you idle the engine all the way back while the plane is in the air, it will die. Apparently, this is typical of this engine, but goes away in time.

Can someone please give the dimensions of the Quad Flaps. I bought my Lite used and the guy installed the ailerons. My local H.S. dosen't have this plane in stock and I'm growing tired of waiting for Horizon to stock a replacement set.

Regards,
Bart

You should have tried the G26!! You absolutely don't need the conversion, stock flies it like a raped ape. My plane weighs in a little over 11 pounds wet. Performance is excellent.. without that crappy glow sound and mess!! 100+ flights, not a single dead stick.. only wiped the plane down twice since new too. I think I have spent a total of $14 in fuel since I have built this plane (March 04)...

Ya better be planning on buying a lot 'o fuel for that 180... it'll run you to the poor house. Those big Saitos only like to run on 30% (OUCH)..


DP

Use a cheapo starter motor. I use the Magnum gear driven starter, it was about $25 at my LHS. Easily starts using it. I gave up hand starting mag engines a long time ago. Put that APC up front and have it kick on you once and (if you still have your finger left) you will know why hand starting Zenoah's are not smart...

DP

Bart
The flaps and ailerons are the same size, 15.625" where they attach to the wing.

todhog,
I spoke to my LHS today about G26 starting problems. They said they have seen cases where the throttle butteryfly is rotated 180 degrees from where it should be. If you look in the carb, you should see the threaded end of the screw holding the butterfly plate to its shaft. If you see the screw head, it needs to be rotated.

oops