ThunderTiger Rare Bear
#327
Well, as suspected, IVAN dropped 4.82 inches of rain in just 8 hours and what a mess as our club field is 50% under water.
No RB test flight occurred this weekend but I did get a chance to do several other things on Sunday afternoon such as the break-in on the OS 1.60 FX w/ 16 x 8 3 Bld. and was taken back by the power! I noted that I had consumed the 16 oz. of 10% in about 7 mins. while running the engine in break-in mode (2 min. @ 4 cycle then 10 sec. in 2 cycle then back to 10 sec. in 4 cycle and so on until the tank is empty.) I have the same engine and tank in my GP-GB-R2 and I get 8-10 min of flying time with no issue. OS recommends a 450-550cc (15-18 oz.) tank for 10 min flights and we are in the middle with the kit supplied tank.
The final balance came in at 0 ballast with the 4.8v-1100ma Rx battery in the Battery box on the firewall.
The engine install incorporates the following: Kit supplied firewall & Motor mounts, OS-1.60 FX, Brission 1.60, Pitts style Muffler, Master Aircsrew 16 x 8 3 bld. prop., Great Planes- 3/8-24 x 10-32 Spinner adapter, 10-32x 2-1/4 lg. Socket Head Spinner bolt, Hangar 9 in-line fuel filter.
The Spinner back plate as supplied with its brass insert is smaller than 3/8 so I CA'd the insert into the back plate and reamed it to 3/8 using a step-drill. Also the hole in the Spinner is to small to pass the 10-32 bolt and has to be drilled out ever so slightly. All of this should be done with a drill press to insure accuracy.
I have installed the Sierra retract units with very little mods and they are BUILT TOUGH.
I have not yet gotten the final weight but will do so this evening and report.
As for a pilot, the instructions call for EDDIE THE ACE [X(], well I fully believe he would suffer a HEART ATTACK at the controls of this puppy, so I put a 1/6th scale Williams Bro. pilot in and looks good.
Well, all that is left is to FLY and I'm will be checking the field on Wed. and hope to get it done then.
BR
No RB test flight occurred this weekend but I did get a chance to do several other things on Sunday afternoon such as the break-in on the OS 1.60 FX w/ 16 x 8 3 Bld. and was taken back by the power! I noted that I had consumed the 16 oz. of 10% in about 7 mins. while running the engine in break-in mode (2 min. @ 4 cycle then 10 sec. in 2 cycle then back to 10 sec. in 4 cycle and so on until the tank is empty.) I have the same engine and tank in my GP-GB-R2 and I get 8-10 min of flying time with no issue. OS recommends a 450-550cc (15-18 oz.) tank for 10 min flights and we are in the middle with the kit supplied tank.

The final balance came in at 0 ballast with the 4.8v-1100ma Rx battery in the Battery box on the firewall.
The engine install incorporates the following: Kit supplied firewall & Motor mounts, OS-1.60 FX, Brission 1.60, Pitts style Muffler, Master Aircsrew 16 x 8 3 bld. prop., Great Planes- 3/8-24 x 10-32 Spinner adapter, 10-32x 2-1/4 lg. Socket Head Spinner bolt, Hangar 9 in-line fuel filter.
The Spinner back plate as supplied with its brass insert is smaller than 3/8 so I CA'd the insert into the back plate and reamed it to 3/8 using a step-drill. Also the hole in the Spinner is to small to pass the 10-32 bolt and has to be drilled out ever so slightly. All of this should be done with a drill press to insure accuracy.
I have installed the Sierra retract units with very little mods and they are BUILT TOUGH.
I have not yet gotten the final weight but will do so this evening and report.
As for a pilot, the instructions call for EDDIE THE ACE [X(], well I fully believe he would suffer a HEART ATTACK at the controls of this puppy, so I put a 1/6th scale Williams Bro. pilot in and looks good.
Well, all that is left is to FLY and I'm will be checking the field on Wed. and hope to get it done then.
BR
#328
I was just curiuos, is anyone going to use or already has installed mechanical retracts? Kinda of wondering how well mech. would work, since you have to pull the wings off and loosen the set screw on on the retract servo to allow the retract wire to go with the wing. I thought that it would be a pain trying to get them to work properly again when you go to assemble the wings to the fuse every time, or even having the set screw wear out and stripped from tightening and loosening it all the time, and only to have the RB come in on landing on a failed retract, because of the wire pulling out from a stripped set screw. I'm not to knowledgeable with retracts as most of my planes are fixed gear. The only planes that I've had with retracts and they were mech. retracts were on the Dago Red and H9 Corsair, and didn't really care for the performance of mech. I think I'm ready to try pneumatic.
Just curiuos on the mech for the RB, so if anyone uses them, please post on how well they work out.Thanks
A
Just curiuos on the mech for the RB, so if anyone uses them, please post on how well they work out.Thanks

A
#329

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From: Grantsville, WV, VA
aps, I intend to use mechanicals on my Bear, but I have a trailer so it is pretty rare for me to have to dissasemble a plane of this size. Anything under 27% goes to the field in one piece, unless I am going to a big event and am taking a bunch of planes.
#330
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From: Nor Cal,
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Kudos to Ace Hobby.... Called them this morning, and 15 minutes latter they where faxing me the insructions..(only took about 1.5 hours to fax!!) Now that's some good customer service!! Time to start Assembly!! I shoul,d have it done by the end of the week or begining of next!!
#331
ORIGINAL: cstevec
aps, I intend to use mechanicals on my Bear, but I have a trailer so it is pretty rare for me to have to dissasemble a plane of this size. Anything under 27% goes to the field in one piece, unless I am going to a big event and am taking a bunch of planes.
aps, I intend to use mechanicals on my Bear, but I have a trailer so it is pretty rare for me to have to dissasemble a plane of this size. Anything under 27% goes to the field in one piece, unless I am going to a big event and am taking a bunch of planes.
I have a truck with a tonneau cover and usally leave my Blue Hawk assembled too, since it can be a pain to assemble all the time, it's when I get home and my planes don't fit to well through the door way and the limited amount of hanger space I have requires me to dissasemble my planes.
One question for you cstevec, what brand of mech. are you using?Thanks
A
#333

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From: Orange,
TX
Correction on The Reno Winner:
Rare Bear Took Gold. Dago Red crossed the finish line 1.8 seconds before Rare Bear, however, Dago Red cut a pylon getting a penalty.
I got to fly with that Giant scale Rare bear this weekend at Bomber field, That is a awsome plane, heres a few pics.
Rare Bear Took Gold. Dago Red crossed the finish line 1.8 seconds before Rare Bear, however, Dago Red cut a pylon getting a penalty.
I got to fly with that Giant scale Rare bear this weekend at Bomber field, That is a awsome plane, heres a few pics.
#335
Just got in this morning from Reno, got my Bear shirt, got MY Bear, and still stocked about Rare Bear's win yesterday. For those that don't know, Dago cut pylon #4 on the second lap. John Penny was right behind and saw the cut so instead of trying to kill the bear he just kept within range of Dago to take the win. The photo here was taken somewhere around the 3rd-4th lap, enjoy.
Now on to the Thunder Tiger Rare Bear, I was thinking of installing the RCV 1.20 engine in mine with the recomended 15.75x13 three bladed prop, anyone have any opinions on this set up?
Oh yeah, one more thing. While walking around the pits I got to talking with the Tech Rep from Thunder Tiger that was there with the model of Rare Bear. He was saying that he would like to see a full line of Reno racers all the same size as The Bear as a series put out by Thunder Tiger. I don't know about you but that makes me do this
I wouldn't hold my breath for their release though.
Now on to the Thunder Tiger Rare Bear, I was thinking of installing the RCV 1.20 engine in mine with the recomended 15.75x13 three bladed prop, anyone have any opinions on this set up?
Oh yeah, one more thing. While walking around the pits I got to talking with the Tech Rep from Thunder Tiger that was there with the model of Rare Bear. He was saying that he would like to see a full line of Reno racers all the same size as The Bear as a series put out by Thunder Tiger. I don't know about you but that makes me do this
I wouldn't hold my breath for their release though.
#337
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hi guys, I've found some strange goings ons with fuel tank installation.... as I've already mentioned the tank doesn't fit where the instructions say, thats OK cos you need to raise it anyway...... however I was mucking around in the front of RB lastnight and looking for a place to rest the tank while I fiddled. I found some rather odd shaped formers which I noticed during the build..... If I put the tank in there.... shazaam!! it was made for it to go there!! over the top of the CG and all!! now all theatrics aside, my real question is: I'm running a 120 4 stroke in RB and I want to know would I need a pump to drag the fuel through appx 1 foot of tubing or do I just need to make a tray and put it up front??? I like the idea of putting in its cute little holder because I can then use the normal retract servo tray for my pneumatic valve set up.
#338
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From: Nor Cal,
CA
I'd say with 12" of fuel tube, you're right on the border or slightly past the point of needing a pump. Never hurts to try and see how the engine takes it (on the ground)..and I'd use the large diameter fuel tube.
If anyones got pictures of their pneumatic valve setup in the fuselage... I'd Like to see!!
Anyone fly their RB yet??
If anyones got pictures of their pneumatic valve setup in the fuselage... I'd Like to see!!
Anyone fly their RB yet??
#339
I noticed on my RB today also, that the fuel tank does need relocated, and this wouldn't work if you are going to use mechanical retracts, because it would put it right were the servo goes for the retract, and I noticed nightchook's post, as I under stand it, relocated the fuel tank just behind the original location for the retract servo? but I don't realy want to use 12" of fuel line on the 2300, as I am afraid I would have fuel travel problems.
Also... does anyone know anything about aluminum and if you can braze it or do you have to tig weld it only? I'm trying to modify my pitts for the 2300 to look like the one TT had designed for the RB. Thanks
A
Also... does anyone know anything about aluminum and if you can braze it or do you have to tig weld it only? I'm trying to modify my pitts for the 2300 to look like the one TT had designed for the RB. Thanks

A
#340
Hi fellas,
Just a quick note to say I have attached a sketch showing my fuel tank relocate and mounting.
I'm been having issues posting pic's from my shop computer but will try to do so this evening of the tank relocate and my FX carb. needle moutning.
I had a chance to weigh my RB last evening and it came in at 11 lb. -5 oz which only puts it 5 oz. above max spec. weight. Not bad considering the power I have on board and that I have NO ballest weight in the airframe.
Nightchook, I have a good idea where you mounted your tank and I would suggest that you run your engine and IF you have issues, MOVE the tank forward vs. installing a pump as it just adds complexity to the fuel system and another item tha can fail.
BR
Just a quick note to say I have attached a sketch showing my fuel tank relocate and mounting.
I'm been having issues posting pic's from my shop computer but will try to do so this evening of the tank relocate and my FX carb. needle moutning.
I had a chance to weigh my RB last evening and it came in at 11 lb. -5 oz which only puts it 5 oz. above max spec. weight. Not bad considering the power I have on board and that I have NO ballest weight in the airframe.
Nightchook, I have a good idea where you mounted your tank and I would suggest that you run your engine and IF you have issues, MOVE the tank forward vs. installing a pump as it just adds complexity to the fuel system and another item tha can fail.
BR
#341
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From: Nor Cal,
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Well I've gotten to the point of mounting the motor... There's a Bummer on the getting the YS 91 to fit without cutting the cowl... [&o] Looks like there needs to be about 3-5mm more space between the top of the valve covers and the cowl... It looks like there's more room if mounted inverted, but the stock motor mount is a no go that way as two of the holes will conflict with the battery box..... But with a YS it might not be that bad idea to mount the engine inverted, as the needle valve would have to go thru the battery box with the engine on its side.
After looking at the YS webpage, it shows that the 110 is 1.5mm shorter than the 91 AC (which I have), so that would still not fit (and there would still be the conflict with the needle valve)
I couldn't find the height from prop centerline (or bottom of the motor mount) to the top of the valve cover on the saito 100...I wonder if it's signifigantly shorter. On the OS side... The 91 surpass is 0.5mm shorter than the FX160, so it would probably fit...but too underpowered.
.....well damn....what to do...... It seems like inverted with a different mount is the ticket....I gotta go look at it some more and figure/think it out...
What do you guys think??
(going with a 2 stroke ...ie. os 160 isn't an option...all though it would be the easy way out!!)
After looking at the YS webpage, it shows that the 110 is 1.5mm shorter than the 91 AC (which I have), so that would still not fit (and there would still be the conflict with the needle valve)
I couldn't find the height from prop centerline (or bottom of the motor mount) to the top of the valve cover on the saito 100...I wonder if it's signifigantly shorter. On the OS side... The 91 surpass is 0.5mm shorter than the FX160, so it would probably fit...but too underpowered.
.....well damn....what to do...... It seems like inverted with a different mount is the ticket....I gotta go look at it some more and figure/think it out...
What do you guys think??
(going with a 2 stroke ...ie. os 160 isn't an option...all though it would be the easy way out!!)
#342
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From: Nor Cal,
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On another note... Can anyone snap a picture of the rear frame assembly for me??? I've been ablle to put most the plane together with literaly no pictures in the instructions, but I just can't figure the rear ply frame assembly out for the life of me!!
#343
Can't figure my scaner out, so I took a pic of the manual. Mabey someone else can do a better job at this. Hope this helps in the mean time.
A

A
#344
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From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Hey guys, Vampire thx for your help, I actually mounted my tank in exactly the same spot as you, in the end I didn't want to worry about fuel feed issues, I have also finished the servo\pneumatic valve setup, I wil try and post a photo or 2.... but basically I used the one they supply for the mechanical retract and mounted a HS55 on one end and the valve on the other, connected by a pushrod and glued the whole thing in between the bulkheads, turned out real well. I have one other gripe about this kit... the cowl really doesnt line up very well at all when you take the right and down thrust into account, to me it seems a little too much but I suppose I should trust the kit makers and fly it first.
#345
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From: Nor Cal,
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Thanks for the pic of the instruction manual apsf4u!!! That really helped! Its deffiatly more of a challenge assembling this plane without pictures.....Kinda like a big jigsaw puzzle. Anyhow I've got it all sorted out now. I guess I'm going to use a different motor mount and put the YS 91 inverted....then iit wil be all ready for the 110 when I can get one..
Any reason not to use a hard mount on this plane?? (maybe having to do with it being fiberglass).. I've got several that will work, but no softies...
Any reason not to use a hard mount on this plane?? (maybe having to do with it being fiberglass).. I've got several that will work, but no softies...
#346
I plan on using a Hyde mount and putting my YS 110 inverted with a homemade muffler to take advantage of the fuse scale exhaust.
A couple of questions:
1. Do I need to run a different tank/special fuel line because of the pressurized fuel system of the YS?
2. Still looking for the best retracts, spring air said it would be a couple of weeks - or is there a better choice?
A couple of questions:
1. Do I need to run a different tank/special fuel line because of the pressurized fuel system of the YS?
2. Still looking for the best retracts, spring air said it would be a couple of weeks - or is there a better choice?
#347
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From: Nor Cal,
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Desert toad,
Having just finshed just changing to mounting my YS inverted (Seems like if you're runnig a YS you've got no choice with the conflict betweent needle valve and battery box)...make sure that Hyde mount will fit before buying one (unless you've allready got it). You can see in my picture that it gets tight between the mount bolts and the battery box (stock mount won't work)... You've got about 40-42mm of usuable space between the thrust center line and getting too close to the battery box that the blind nuts will interfere.
Also, If you haven't got to putting the wood frame together, and you want to mount the fuel tank in the stock position, put the servo tray in OPPOSITE of what the instructions say (or in other words have the fuel tank cut-out on the right hand side)... reason: your throtle servo is now going on the left hand side you want the tank on the opposite side so it won't interfere.
As for retracts, I decided on Robart 551rs's with 662 robo struts... Horizon's got the best price...about $200 those... I should have mine tomorrow!!!
All i"ve got left is instaling the retract system, and finishing touches.
On Another note.... I'm not so impressed with how you secure the wings... It's hard for me to tell exactly how it's done as I'm still working off of faxed pages (pictures are pretty much black)....but using a screw in the wing tube?! Seems like the hole will dish out fairly fast creating slop
I'd really like to fasten it somewhat similar to how the Funtana's is... (that's been the best 2-wing attachment I've yet to have....no slop over time).....But it's pretty hard to get at the roots from inside the fuselage in the RB to do that... Gotta think about that one!
[img][/img]
Having just finshed just changing to mounting my YS inverted (Seems like if you're runnig a YS you've got no choice with the conflict betweent needle valve and battery box)...make sure that Hyde mount will fit before buying one (unless you've allready got it). You can see in my picture that it gets tight between the mount bolts and the battery box (stock mount won't work)... You've got about 40-42mm of usuable space between the thrust center line and getting too close to the battery box that the blind nuts will interfere.
Also, If you haven't got to putting the wood frame together, and you want to mount the fuel tank in the stock position, put the servo tray in OPPOSITE of what the instructions say (or in other words have the fuel tank cut-out on the right hand side)... reason: your throtle servo is now going on the left hand side you want the tank on the opposite side so it won't interfere.
As for retracts, I decided on Robart 551rs's with 662 robo struts... Horizon's got the best price...about $200 those... I should have mine tomorrow!!!
All i"ve got left is instaling the retract system, and finishing touches.
On Another note.... I'm not so impressed with how you secure the wings... It's hard for me to tell exactly how it's done as I'm still working off of faxed pages (pictures are pretty much black)....but using a screw in the wing tube?! Seems like the hole will dish out fairly fast creating slop
I'd really like to fasten it somewhat similar to how the Funtana's is... (that's been the best 2-wing attachment I've yet to have....no slop over time).....But it's pretty hard to get at the roots from inside the fuselage in the RB to do that... Gotta think about that one![img][/img]
#350
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From: Fayetteville, GA
I scanned the entire manual for the TT Rare Bear so if you need a clear copy just send me a PM....
This is gonna take a while working on it 10 minutes a day!!
This is gonna take a while working on it 10 minutes a day!!


