Building my first ARF's.....(Advice)
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: East Moline, IL
I'm getting a Skyraider Mach II and a Twist 3D tomorrow. The only ARF I have built is my nexstar(which took 5 min) Plan on putting the Mach II together first. If you have had experience putting this plane together or any ARF, PLEASE help me out and give me some advice,tips, tools I need, how to set it up, any improvements I should do, ect...... Want this to be a good experience not a disaster. [sm=stupid.gif]
#2
Senior Member
Skyraider Mach II is literally idiot proof ... the easier is the RCM Trainer but the Mach II is not much harder than that! Have fun. I built mine without the canopy, looks cool to me.
#3

My Feedback: (68)
RoneRic
welcome to the forums, just be sure you have all the basics covered.
Make sure you have all the tools you think you will need.
Make sure all your supplies are there like bolts, screws etc etc. As you gain mroe exp you will start gaining a preference to these.
Read the manual and do the steps without actually using glue etc to dry fit them to make sure everything lines up.
im sure there are others but that what I have for now
good luck and take pics of your birds once they are done. Keep us updated and remmeber the most importbabt thing when assembling/flying:
MAKE SURE YOU ARE HAVING FUN!!!!
any questions, feel to ask us
,att [sm=RAINFRO.gif]
welcome to the forums, just be sure you have all the basics covered.
Make sure you have all the tools you think you will need.
Make sure all your supplies are there like bolts, screws etc etc. As you gain mroe exp you will start gaining a preference to these.
Read the manual and do the steps without actually using glue etc to dry fit them to make sure everything lines up.
im sure there are others but that what I have for now

good luck and take pics of your birds once they are done. Keep us updated and remmeber the most importbabt thing when assembling/flying:
MAKE SURE YOU ARE HAVING FUN!!!!
any questions, feel to ask us

,att [sm=RAINFRO.gif]
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: East Moline, IL
well got them today and started working on the Mach II. First off, the wings went together pretty good.Had to sand the joiner a bit to make it fit. Still in this one area there was a space so I just used alot of epoxy. The space was probably the thickness of a piece of paper. I figured well close enough. Joining the wings sucked because I had no way of clamping them so I had to hold them for 30 minutes. Oh well, know what to get next time.
Couple of questions though, and one is a total newb question. They fuel tank has 3 pieces of pipe. All 3 different lengths. Which one do I use for each,fuel in, pressure, clunk? Sorry if it seeems stupid but the directions were a little sad. Also, do I bend the fuel in pipe? It looks like it is in the directions (I should say picture).
Two, will the epoxy be enough to hold the wings or should I put fiberglass on them? And do I have to cut the covering away to put it on, and do I go all the way around the wing or can I put a piece on each side?
Third, my wheels are not straight across from one another. Tried both wheels on each side and still the same. One is just a little farther ahead of the other one. I assume that this is the way it's supposed to be.
Well, thsts all I got done today. Doing the fuel tank(if I figure it out) and control surfaces tomorrow.
Couple of questions though, and one is a total newb question. They fuel tank has 3 pieces of pipe. All 3 different lengths. Which one do I use for each,fuel in, pressure, clunk? Sorry if it seeems stupid but the directions were a little sad. Also, do I bend the fuel in pipe? It looks like it is in the directions (I should say picture).
Two, will the epoxy be enough to hold the wings or should I put fiberglass on them? And do I have to cut the covering away to put it on, and do I go all the way around the wing or can I put a piece on each side?
Third, my wheels are not straight across from one another. Tried both wheels on each side and still the same. One is just a little farther ahead of the other one. I assume that this is the way it's supposed to be.
Well, thsts all I got done today. Doing the fuel tank(if I figure it out) and control surfaces tomorrow.
#5
Senior Member
The wing does not need to be clamped, just use 5 minute epoxy or just thick CA, that makes life a lot easier and faster to build. HEY I AM JUST KIDDING!!!!!!
I don't clamp my wings, I lean it against a wall or across 2 chairs if the fit is very tight or I use a table and books. I use 90 mins epoxy so I can check on it.
Wheels ... they are no in line as the way it is attached causes this, its ok, you will track on the ground straight, I know it looks weird. As for the wings, there is no need to glass it, the plane is light and hence will take the Gs that are exerted.
As for the tank, you can just use 2 lines since the engine is exposed and not in a cowl, just remove the line to the carb to refuel, there is no need for 3 lines. If you wanna then its as follows:
Pressure line - upper hole, metal tube is bent upwards a little
Fuel line - middle hole, leave the metal tube straight
Refueling - lower hole, bend the metal tube downwards a little
When I say bend I mean the portion INSIDE the tank. Hope this makes sense.
I don't clamp my wings, I lean it against a wall or across 2 chairs if the fit is very tight or I use a table and books. I use 90 mins epoxy so I can check on it.Wheels ... they are no in line as the way it is attached causes this, its ok, you will track on the ground straight, I know it looks weird. As for the wings, there is no need to glass it, the plane is light and hence will take the Gs that are exerted.
As for the tank, you can just use 2 lines since the engine is exposed and not in a cowl, just remove the line to the carb to refuel, there is no need for 3 lines. If you wanna then its as follows:
Pressure line - upper hole, metal tube is bent upwards a little
Fuel line - middle hole, leave the metal tube straight
Refueling - lower hole, bend the metal tube downwards a little
When I say bend I mean the portion INSIDE the tank. Hope this makes sense.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: East Moline, IL
ORIGINAL: tIANci
Pressure line - upper hole, metal tube is bent upwards a little
Fuel line - middle hole, leave the metal tube straight
Refueling - lower hole, bend the metal tube downwards a little
When I say bend I mean the portion INSIDE the tank. Hope this makes sense.
Pressure line - upper hole, metal tube is bent upwards a little
Fuel line - middle hole, leave the metal tube straight
Refueling - lower hole, bend the metal tube downwards a little
When I say bend I mean the portion INSIDE the tank. Hope this makes sense.
#7
Senior Member
Dude ... the rubber 'gromet' or stopper is not enough to seal the tank properly. The metal discs are used to sandwich the rubber stopper, the rubber will expand as you tighten the screw (sandwiched effect - imagine this with 2 nice lanky gals ... hehehe ... ) and this will seal the tank properly. Please do not over tighten the screw as you may pop the tank. Just see that the rubber stopper is slightly expanded and that it is fitting tight, firm and snug.
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: East Moline, IL
ORIGINAL: tIANci
Dude ... the rubber 'gromet' or stopper is not enough to seal the tank properly. The metal discs are used to sandwich the rubber stopper, the rubber will expand as you tighten the screw (sandwiched effect - imagine this with 2 nice lanky gals ... hehehe ... ) and this will seal the tank properly. Please do not over tighten the screw as you may pop the tank. Just see that the rubber stopper is slightly expanded and that it is fitting tight, firm and snug.
Dude ... the rubber 'gromet' or stopper is not enough to seal the tank properly. The metal discs are used to sandwich the rubber stopper, the rubber will expand as you tighten the screw (sandwiched effect - imagine this with 2 nice lanky gals ... hehehe ... ) and this will seal the tank properly. Please do not over tighten the screw as you may pop the tank. Just see that the rubber stopper is slightly expanded and that it is fitting tight, firm and snug.
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: East Moline, IL
Well, installed the servos and control surfaces. Had a slip up, Iwas tightening the control horn and my screwdriver slipped and dented the covering on the tail. Any good way to kinda get it out? Glazed the engine compartment and will let it sit overnight. Tomorrow the engine and the rest of the radio. Not too bad so far, I just wished I didn't dent the covering already.....[
]
Practicing on AFP in the mean time. I have about 2 hrs a day to work on it so coming kinda slow, especially since this is my first one. Learning alot though, the stuff I learn here I will use on my twist.
]Practicing on AFP in the mean time. I have about 2 hrs a day to work on it so coming kinda slow, especially since this is my first one. Learning alot though, the stuff I learn here I will use on my twist.
#11
Senior Member
What do u mean dented? If I think its what it is then use a hot iron on it, the dent will smoothen itself out. Set the iron to very warm, you can just about touch it with bare fingers. Then iron it, take the heat up slowly until you see some results. Also, once the yellow coverig turns dark yellow you know that you are reaching the threshold of scorching the covering.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: East Moline, IL
ORIGINAL: tIANci
What do u mean dented? If I think its what it is then use a hot iron on it, the dent will smoothen itself out. Set the iron to very warm, you can just about touch it with bare fingers. Then iron it, take the heat up slowly until you see some results. Also, once the yellow coverig turns dark yellow you know that you are reaching the threshold of scorching the covering.
What do u mean dented? If I think its what it is then use a hot iron on it, the dent will smoothen itself out. Set the iron to very warm, you can just about touch it with bare fingers. Then iron it, take the heat up slowly until you see some results. Also, once the yellow coverig turns dark yellow you know that you are reaching the threshold of scorching the covering.
#13
Senior Member
Oh man ... never mind it happens ... i was rushing my Phoenix Scanner (3rd time i am getting it) and I forgot to check the vertical tailfin properly before and after I CA it ... slightly lopsided!!! Still flies straight! Hahahaaaaaa ...
#14

Hope you did better
We got a Hobbyco ATF and things went great... until we turned everything on.
ALL the control surfaces went to different directections while the controls were at neutral.
And... no the servos aren't adjustable. So...
what is a good way to adjust the control rod ends? They're so stiff that I'm afraid of ruining the model. Once this is done the rest is cake and then my son & I are ready to fly.
Thanks
mightyhorn
We got a Hobbyco ATF and things went great... until we turned everything on.
ALL the control surfaces went to different directections while the controls were at neutral.
And... no the servos aren't adjustable. So...
what is a good way to adjust the control rod ends? They're so stiff that I'm afraid of ruining the model. Once this is done the rest is cake and then my son & I are ready to fly.
Thanks
mightyhorn
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Thomson,
IL
mightyhorn
I don't quite understand what you mean by cotrol surfaces went everywhere. The servos are adjustable, I would suggest taking the little phillips screw out on the middle of the control horn, lifting off the horn from the top of the servo, when you have them all off, center the trim levers on your transmitter. Turn on your transmitter then turn on the receiver, you should hear the servos centering themselves. turn the reciever off, then the transmitter, line up your control surfaces, and then put the control horns back on the servos, being carefull to not turn the servo motor. Put the phillips screw back in the top of the servo. Now when you turn the transmitter, and reciever on things should look a little better. The clevises on the control surface may turn hard, but you can use them to make final adjustments.
I don't quite understand what you mean by cotrol surfaces went everywhere. The servos are adjustable, I would suggest taking the little phillips screw out on the middle of the control horn, lifting off the horn from the top of the servo, when you have them all off, center the trim levers on your transmitter. Turn on your transmitter then turn on the receiver, you should hear the servos centering themselves. turn the reciever off, then the transmitter, line up your control surfaces, and then put the control horns back on the servos, being carefull to not turn the servo motor. Put the phillips screw back in the top of the servo. Now when you turn the transmitter, and reciever on things should look a little better. The clevises on the control surface may turn hard, but you can use them to make final adjustments.



