I just received and have started to put together the Spacewalker II ARF by Seagull. First, let me say that this is one very sweet ARF. The quality of the model is immediately obvious from the well-executed, solid build to the (nearly) flawless covering. It really puts my RCM Trainer ARF to shame!!! And it's just such a fun looking airplane!

But, for every silver lining there is always a dark cloud. In this case, the manual contains a number of minor and not so minor errors that unnecessarily complicated what is an otherwise quite simple assembly. Several of the inaccuracies seem to have been caused by changes in the kit that are not reflected in the text. For example, we are told to make the Z-bend in the throttle push rod when this has already been done for us. I'm not complaining on that count. However, the description of how to mount the engine contains a number of problems. First the type of mounting bolts and nuts seems to have changed (for the better it seems) but more disturbing is that the directions say the make sure the engine's thrust washer is 5 5/8" from the firewall. Well, that's just plain impossible with any engine that would fit into the bracket. I thought the 5 followed by another 5 was a bit suspicious (classic typo) so I tried 4 5/8" and that's a least close so that's my guess as to what it's supposed to be. For what it's worth the photos seem to be more accurate than the text.

Also the fuel tank that came with the ARF is of a different type than the one illustrated and in fact actually seems to be the WRONG type (it's the kind with the little forward facing lip/foot) and that makes it impossible to seat the tank cap in the hole in the firewall. It should be easy enough to work around but it's a problem nonetheless.

Another "difference" is with the wheel pants. In the manual, and on the box which seems to reflect a prototype, the pants have an indent molded into the fiberglass where the landing gear bracket fits. Not on the my kit. The two (very nicely molded) fiberglass pants are both identical and this makes them somewhat difficult to keep from pivoting. I think I'm going to end up having to exopy there in place or leave them off. The pictures of the instillation give only the vaguest clues as to how to attach the wheel and pants with the hardware provided. You definitely have to put on your thinking cap.

Well that's all I've found so far because all the further I've gotten. Anyone else find any other construction problems with this otherwise superbly built and finished ARF?

Aaah. Just remembered something else. On the wing servo installation we are told to attach a 12" servo extension before sliding the cable through the wing. Nowhere are we told that 2 x 12" extension cables are needed. And in fact, they AREN'T needed. The standard servo cable is long enough to go from the servo bay to the hole in the top center of the wing with serveral inches to spare. Now of course a bit more length would be needed to provide more freedom in placing the Rx but since the Spacewalker II uses a servo for each aileron, a Y-cable IS needed and this provides the needed extra reach. BTW, we are not informed of this fact and nowhere in the manual is that made clear that a Y-cable is needed. This will be confusing for someone doing their first two-servo set-up (luckily I had just done one on my "second plane").

It could be that some of there errors stem from differences in the Spacewalker I and it subsequently produced sibling II.

Aaah again. Memory...coming...back. Slowly. On the section describing the mounting of the cowl we are told to use the marks we had made earlier at the location of the mounting blocks. Well that whole section of the text and instructions is apparently missing! And upon inspection so are the mounting blocks!!! There does seem to be some block in approximately the right location for the bottom screws but there are definitely no blocks were the upper screws would go. But then this shouldn't really be a problem because the location is made of 1/8" ply so it should hold up.

All in all this seems like a case of "Don't RTFM!" Too bad for such a great model to have such sucky instructions.

When I got to the crazy motor instructions I just chuckled, took another sip from the lager on the bench, then installed the motor so that the front of the flanges are up against the forward clamp bolt.

The instructions aren't good, I agree. My wheel pants are straight, though, even though I have them installed so as to provide the highest ground clearance.

I don't have my fuel tank stopper lodged into the firewall. I'm not sure you're supposed to.... I installed a popsicle stick to hold it in place from the rear. The manual also doesn't say what to do with the vent line, so you need to pick up some sort of fuel dots.

I like my plane, but I'm glad I threw out the elevator pushrod in favor of a Sullivan rod. I had to install a piece of ply to install the housing in.

-Jeff

I think I am going to change the throttle control rod, the z bend on the end is a little sloppy. I want a clevis going to the carb and a z bend on my servo. If it were not so tail heavy I would also like to move the rudder and elevator servos back to the tail section.

From the Horizon Website:

Mounting the Engine
Step 4
The distance listed of 5 5/8� is a misprint, the distance should be 4 1/8� to 4 ¼�.
Step 6
Place a drop of loctite on each screw. The washers included are not split washers, but rather flat washers.
Step 7
This is a repeat of step 6 and can be omitted.


Mounting the Cowling
This step should state, “Mounting the Cowling�.

Step 2
There are no marks to line the cowl up with as stated in the manual and there is no mention of where these marks should be. You can move it back and forth slightly as needed to line up with the spinner. If using a large engine, it may not be possible to make the cowl line up with the spinner, and there will be a gap between the spinner and the cowl. Make sure there is plywood behind the locations where you drill for the cowling screws to provide adequate strength.
When cutting the openings in the cowling, start with an opening that is too small and then open it up slowly with a grinding drum on a dremel tool to prevent any damage to the paint.

And with the 46 size engine, it flies with very little authority.Go larger.

I'm sure it'd fly like a bat out of hell with a larger engine. But I'll be using a 40-size Magnum 2-stroke! I may eventually put in my 52 RS but this would necessitate changing the motor mount (and all that THAT entails). I'm not interested in aerobatics at all but rather hope to learn more about the "good piloting" required to keep an underpowered plane in the air during scale flying. Since my ultimate goal is to fly scale WWI A/C which were nearly all underpowered and finicky to fly, I think a 40-size should suit my Spacewalker nicely.

I think the 40 will be plenty too. I just reviewed the Spacewalker II, and using an Evolution TPS engine, I found it to be a little overpowered.

Something else to note (BTW, I totally agree with all of your comments - great little plane, terrible manual) If you fly off of grass, you may want to chuck the wheel pants altogether and put larger wheels on it.

MinnFlyer, thanks for you advice. BTW, where in the review -- is it on this site? Also given that so much else is wrong with the manual I'm wondering about all the really important stuff at the end, namely the CG point and all the throw settings. Here's what the manual says:

CG: 7.5 - 8 cm behind the leading edge. BTW, the 8cm mark coincides with the back of the leading edge sheeting. Curious that this is the only dimension given in metric.

Initial Flying throws:

Ailerons: 3/16 up and 3/16 down
Elevator: 3/8 up and 3/8 down
Rudder: 1" right and 1" left

Aerobatic Flying throws:

Ailerons: 3/8 up and 3/8 down
Elevator: 1" up and 1" down
Rudder: 2" right and 2" left

I have to say that the minimal settings seem awfully minimal to me. I think even my RCM trainer had more throw on all surfaces that this! MinnFlyer what do you think?

On my particular spacewalker II with the battery and Rx in the forward compartment (but behind the tank), a Magnum 40 set all the way against the forward retaining bolt, no cowl, and both pilot figures installed, the balance (upside down) is just about perfect at the 8cm position, i.e. right at the edge of the wing sheeting. Would there be any advantage to moving the CG forward to the 7.5 mark with a few bits of lead on the wirewall?

Also thanks for the heads-up about flying off grass and the wheel pants. I'm not sure I'd call my new field here in Japan grass exactly! It's a lot greener than my last field in Southern Cal but still more like small weeds in dirt. Should I still do with the larger wheels?

A word to the wise on the throws. If you have trainer experiance, dont use the low settings. They are so low, that if you get in trouble there will not be enough to get out of trouble. Even on high throws its pretty mild, compaired to others. The CG located at the end of the sheeting, it still feels a little tail heavy. But I am wanting to get a CG machine to get a little more accurate.

The review is finished, but it hasn't been published yet. SOmetimes RCU holds on to them so there's something to post during the winter months.

And don't worry about the aft CG, I set it at 8cm and it still seemed a little nose heavy.