I flew the Stinger for the first time the other day. It flies very,very well. I've got the Satio 100 tuned in well. I think it is a exceptional power plant for this model. I've balanced mine at 4.5 in servos in the tail, 600m batt in the rear of fuse. need no extra tail weight for balancing. This plane leaps off the ground in about 10 feet needing almost no rudder input. Steepen your climb angle and punch the gas and this thing becomes a dot in no time!! It rolls like a dreamvery axial no wag in the tail. loops are easy and real clean. I have'nt perfected the knife edge roll/pitch coupling yet(Its been real windy) but im sure i'll get it soon. I didnt want to push it to hard first time so I landed it with the ease of a trainer and checked the tightness of everything. I should have checked the landing gear beter I had to cut the second flight short due to a loss of landing gear in mid air. I would recomend loctite and careful tightining and retightining of these screws. My wheel pants are toast called lanier and am getting more. All in all a sucessful day IMO. This plane is a blast to fly and I cant wait for this dang wing so calm down to go again. Thanks for all your help guys this thread inspired me to buy this plane and it my favorite one right now!!! The info in this thread is IMO the best on this model esp. the bit on the tail servos.

Thanks again
Justin

Oh ya, forgot to warn you about the wheels, lost mine last summer, was a little squirrley with the weight change, never could find the wheels and pants, think they are in the heavy timber I was over at the time. Have looked a number of times. Flew the plane yesterday and really put it thru it's paces, fairly windy and landing got to be no fun so quit to fly another day...Wish Lanier would correct some of the little things like the excessive plastic, loose wheels and the braking fuselage.

Gizmo,

I dont see a weak spot can you post any pic's I would like to reinforce this spot if has been a problem. They might have fixed it on the new arf's I bought mine in Dec.
Justin

Nits, The only pictures I have arn't from the proper view, however I will try and explain. The wing sits into the Fuselage and is pinned on in the front. The bulkhead where pins go into holds the Fuselage together, the sides break just behind this bulkhead below the wing leading edge. The sides will do the same thing at the bulkhead at the trailing edge of the wing. Triangle stock epoxied inside and carbon fiber strips outside top and bottom has worked well for me, do the carbon carefully with a little epoxy over the top and sand lightly until smooth , then cover. Worked for me, anyway.

Thanks Gizmo,

Does anyone know what the white covering brand name is?
Justin

All the covering is UltraCote.

IM CURIOUS IF YOU GUYS HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH YOUR COWL MOUNTING BLOCKS? I CUT THE COVERING ON TOP OF THE WING AND USED 15 MIN EPOXY TO GLUE THEM IN. I'VE LINED UP EVERYTHING AND USED THE SUPPLIED WOOD SCREWS. IVE FLOWN ABOUT 10 TIMES NOW AND I CANT SEEM TO GET THROUGH A SESSION WITHOUT BUSTING OUT THE BLOCKS AND LOOSING MY COWLING . GOOD THING I KEEP A ROLL OF TAPE WITH ME IM GOING TO FIGURE A DIFFERENT WAY TO FASTEN THIS THING ON! IF YOU ARE BUILDING YOUR PLANE I WOULD SUGGEST DOING THE SAME. OTHER THAN THIS SMALL PROBLEM THIS THING IS A GREAT PLANE\
JUSTIN

Same problem here! But after I crashed it, I just let it flop in the wind.

Jon

I did not trust the prescribed way of mounting the blocks. With a Saito 100 up front, I knew vibration would eventually loosen the block mounting and probably crack the Cowl. I Epoxied a 3/4 inch square of 1/8 inch lite ply to the inside of the fuselage where the block mounts. I drilled a hole through the spacer block so I could push a 4/40 hex head screw through the block. The hole is drilled in the rear half of the block. I drilled the start of the hole so that the head of the screw is counter sunk below the surface of the block. The screw goes through the block and fuselage and into a blind nut mounted in the 1/8 inch lite ply. I used epoxy where the block contacts the fuselage side (remove covering). Tighten it up and let the epoxy cure. When I mounted the Cowl, I put the mounting screw into the front half of the mounting block. Same treatment, both sides. Very secure mounting, and It has not vibrated loose.

I BUILD an ARF, I do not assemble it.

I WOULD LIKE TO USE MY OS 1.08 BX1 ENGINE IN THE STINGER 60-IS ANYBODY OUT THERE THIS COMBO?OR WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THIS COMBO-
RON

If you have read this thread you should already know the plane is inherently NOSE heavy, and that is with a Saito 100 up front (22 oz with muffler). The OS 1.08 with muffler is going to push 30 oz. You DO NOT want to put this much weight up front. Everyone has had a difficult time balancing this plane with the Saito up front. Moved the servos and battery as far to the rear as possible. With the OS 1.08 you will have to add a BUNCH of tail weight for balance. You will end much too heavy overall.

My suggestion, if you want a 2 stroke, find a lighter one, or consider another plane for your OS 1.08.

HOF-

THAT WOULDNT BE THE BEST MOTOR BUT..... YOU MIGHT WANT TO PUT IT IN THE 120 SIZE STINGER. 91-2.2 2 STROKE IS THE RECOMENDED SIZE.
JUSTIN

YEA,
I THINK YOU`RE RIGHT I`M GOING WITH THE 1.20 SIZE STINGER-THANKS-HOF

just finished my stinger 60arf with saito 100... Soooooo overpowered its scary... anyone have a good idea about what prop to use with the 100 saito for best match... 14x6 has got too much pull.

I use a 14-6 just don't use full throttle

Hey racsanone,

I had the same dilemma a month ago! After following Areosplat's advice I came to the conslusion that I like the 15X4wide apc. Its a very funky prop and hard to find sometimes. Use a tach and set your Saito between 9800-10500static. Make sure the engine is properly broken in! This prop really slows the plane down to a comfortable pace for me. But.... when you hit the gas it really scoots I've got totaly unlimited vertical and canhover at 3/4 throttle. when I pull it back it will really creep along. Knife edge all day long ect... One word of caution! You have to be careful on down lines and straight and level flight to throttle back it might overrev. I fly 90% of the time about 1/4 to half throttle anyway so just be careful. You might also want to try a 15x6 pro zinger its about half way between a 15x4w and a 14x8.
Good luck
Justin

put the 15 x 4w peop on the stinger and that made the plane perfect... Plenty of pull but slows to a crawl.. Put Cline Fuel pressure regualtor on it with tank set on the CG to help with the nose heavy issues.. What a blast ! thanks for all the posts about the stinger 60, it helped alot....

I am in the process of finishing my Stinger 60. I mounted a Saito 91 four stroke in the nose and have not gotten to the balancing portion yet. You all have success in mounting the servos in the rear. I like that concept. Who makes that bell crank for the elevator? I like that. Is it hard to install? I am very excited about trying out my new plane. Thanks for all the info on the previous posts.

Dave

Go to Central Hobbies http://www.centralhobbies.com/ and click on "Control Linkage" . You will see the Bell Crank listed there.