I think this engine also creates some problems that are unique to itself. I earlier posted that I had several deadsticks at first and these were due to the fact that I was sure that the advertising hype was correct and that I didn't have to make any adjustments outside the "range" that the collar over the high speed needle allows. After bending back the tab and then adjusting, the engine has run well since. If this engine didn't have this feature I would have adjusted it correctly from the get go with no dead sticks and I would have been singing its praises here today.

I agree that pinning the needle settings can cause some issues. A factory worker in China is probably presetting the needles using vacuum or pressure reading equipment. That's okay for their altitude, humidity, etc. However it may vary anywhere else. The engineering premise of presets and limiters is a good one, just needs some refinement.

One newbie here had a hard time with his, kept quitting in the air after a brief run. Another fellow changed his glow plug and the problem went away. Newbie didn't know a plug could do this.

Tying the model down and letting it run for extended periods on the ground will ruin any engine.

If you were able to do so, you would see a very fine cloud of dust being pulled from the ground and into the engine's carburetor.

Go to a pattern contest and see how much effort most pattern pilots go to to minimize their engine's running time on the ground. Those in the know will have a drill worked out to keep this time as a minimum. Dust/dirt is abrasive and is similar to running lapping compound through your engine.

No engine will tolerate this kind of abuse for very long without showing a drop in power production.

Years ago, in RCM, IIRC, there was a picture that was taken of a model airplane with running engine at dusk. Car headlights were illuminating the dust cloud as it entered the engine. It changed my behavior around engines permanently.

Ed Cregger

Guys, take a engine and set it in Denver and then take it to LA and then complain about the factory setting. Any engine must be set for the area you live in. MDS was the biggest pain there ever was, but you'll still find soneone that likes them. Nothing works 100% out of the box. Ask some of the older guys about Fox and the twin needle carb. You had to re-set them every day. both needles. when you talk about factory setting, think China. My statment was made on the number of engines sold against the number returned which is zero. Should have been in my store during MDS days. I still stand by my first statment. When MDS went down the grapper, Horizon took every one back. This is the kind of company that is behind the Evolution. You pick. Dennis

I am not familiar with the Evolution series of engines, but I do know that bad handling habits can cause any engine to experience premature failure.

When one considers the fact that it is mostly newbies that buy the cheaper "beginner" engines, and couple this with a lack of knowledge concerning proper engine handling, it is no wonder that certain brands develop a reputation that is often not deserved.

Does anyone remember the Fox two needle carbs that had a cast carb body with a tapered fuel nipple also cast into the body? Those carbs worked just fine, if you filed a groove in the tapered nipple and placed a lock washer on it for fuel line retention. If you didn't do this, the fuel line would keep slipping off. You also had to adjust the low speed circuit first, as plainly pointed out in the instructions. If you did these two things, the carbs worked just fine. If you didn't, you were in for a world of agony.

Fox used to push the envelope on large carb air flow rates. One of the symptoms of doing such a thing was a carb that needed readjustment just about every time you went to the flying field. Why? Because the carb openings were so large that just the minor variations between day-to-day air pressure levels would cause yesterday's adjustments to be inappropriate. But when you got it dialed-in - LOOKOUT! Lots of power.

Ed Cregger

Well, for what it's worth, I owned (past tense) three. An Evo 40, 61, and 100. NONE of them ran well enough to keep. The .40 started out ok, but after several tanks, it would start but not transition. The same with the two others, except the 100 never would run right no matter what I did. Our club has several guys that could be considered engine experts, one is FAI Pattern level and absolutely KNOWS engines. He could not get it to run right. We would get it set up at idle, hit the throttle, and it would die. After we got it adjusted to what we thought was correct, I put the plane in the air. One flight, land, refuel, back to 'normal'. I went back up, and it would die on throttle transitions. At times, I could not get it off the ground because it would just die.

I went to my LHS and bought an OS 1.20 AX and replaced the Evo 100 with it. Never again did I have a problem. When I go out to the field now, I fuel up, turn the engine to get fuel flow to the carb, attach the glow driver and flip the prop with my chicken stick and go flying. No more sweating over getting the stupid engine running. That was back in May. I still have that OS 1.20 AX and it still runs like a champ. In fact, it runs well enough that I bought another for another plane and it too runs like a champ.

My LHS has the EVO's in his showcase for sale 'on consignment'. All of you evo lovers.. go on over and pick one up. I'd be glad to sell it to you.

DS.

Had an Evo .46...flew the plane three dozen times and had around a dozen dead stick landings [:'(]. Engine would cut out after 5 or 6 minutes. Nobody in our club could figure it out. In Evo's defense, the thing did hand start on the first flip.

Evilutiona are an excellent motor, I've had a few of them now and never had a dead stick with any of them. You do need to pull the limiter pins out of the high speed needle though, ecspecaily if you're at high altitudes. I've never had any of the needles move either during flight which some have had happen, I just pull the needle out and bend the tab slightly and re-install the needle so it is a little harder to turn. Just remember that these motors use a 4-stroke plug, such as the OS "F" type plug and not a typical 2-stroke plug. I fly at almost 6000ft and ocassionaly around 10,000ft and have had no trouble with RPM's. I do use and have always used 25% nitro fuel and it runs smoother and they all run strong. Just like any other motor, if you over heat it it won't last long. PM me if you have any questions.


Shane

I have a Evo Trainer engine, that is a big pain. We cannot get it to run right for anything. I have change fuel lines, glow plugs, and taken the fly wheel off. These have helped a little, but it just will not run right. I, and everybody I fly with, am not impressed at all with this engine. I just borrowed an OS 46 so for the time being just so that I can fly. I would not recommend this engine.

I have sold a lot of these engines, not one has given me or the club members any trouble. Sure some of them have to be fined tuned other then the factory setting. All you have to know is how. what I still don't understand is why no one that has trouble said anything about sending them back to Horizon to get fixed. They give you three years. I sell the trainer in the store and taught at the field, not one dead stick.. I have sold them since day one and not one customer has asked to replace it. I still say if the engine can't be tuned it's not the engines fault. Now that's just my experience with them. Dennis

I agree, if you go buy the book on these you will never get them tuned right. You need to remove the limiters so you can actually tune it correctly. Also I have not seen one engine despite the brand or cost that hasn't had some sort of problem. Thats why they have warranties. In my racing days I was strictly an OS guy and they ran like a champ, but every so often I or someone at the track would get a bad one, same applies here. If it is truly bad and your tuning skills are up to par, then you should've sent it in for a replacement. I don't waste any time in doing so if I'd spent my hard earned money on something and it isn't right. Horizon kicks ***** in customer service and to think, you may in deed be missing out on your future prefered choice of engine. I have a buddy who is a OS/Saito guy and he always says that If I would've gotten the OS my planes would be faster, Well my Evo's have no problems keeping up with his OS's.. Also as I posted earlier, BE SURE you use the right plug, 4-stroke and not 2-stroke plugs.


Later

I just purchased a 1.00 and upon inspection had found the o-ring which goes between the carb and intake missing. I called horizon and had a complete ring set sent to me in less than a week. Not only the ring I was missing but all needle rings and the metal 0-ring.
Once I installed the o-ring the engine ran flawlessly and within the limiters.
I flew my CMPro Corsair last sunday and had no problems whatsoever.
This is my first Evo engine and if it keeps running the way it did I'll definately buy others.
Hangar 9 did right by me. NO CHARGE
I'm going to order their "Super Plug".



Happy Flying

Tom

Heres a few things to try
check the oring under the carb and reseat
replace the clear line from the highspeed needle to the carb
use a new enya #3 plug they like hot plugs
remove the baffle from the muffler
15% omega fuel
my evo was on the stuburn side till I made these changes

Will just add my 2 cents worth....My Evolution 46 has been run for 2 years with the following observations: As new, ran great, although idle mixture set at far side of limiter. One off runway excursion w/ filp over and then engine would only run for 3 to 5 minutes and quit, both in the air, and on the engine stand. Cause......metal chips in the high speed needle area, I guess came loose during my "excursion". Chips removed, new seals installed, motor runs great again.

NCDaveD