Well it's been a while since my last post and I've completed alot of things on the plane. I've done the gear mod like Ross suggested. The tank has been one of my main concerns. I'm using a 16oz tank recommended by YS for their engines. It's supposed to withstand the pressure from their system. I thought it out and came up with my own mount. I wanted something that was removeable and that would bring the tank out when the mount was removed. I cut some light ply 3/32" I think. Shaped like a tee. I cut a strip 1" wide and the width of the fuse. I then cut two pieces from the same ply as spacers, and finally a 1" wide piece long enough to cover the width of the tee shaped piece. I glued up the 1" pieces and then glued the final assembly into the fuse just behind the firewall. The Wide end of the tee sets on the ledge in front of the servo mount tray and will be held in place by two blind nuts and machine screws. When the tank needs to be removed, just remove the two machine screws and slide it out of the slotted front piece thats glued to the fuse behind the firewall. Here's a couple pics of the the whole thing.

Well the tank mount works great except for one thing. The tank can't move forward enough to let the wing mount. The tank is 16oz and the tubes hit the firewall. They hit right where the engine mount is so I can't drill there.[>:] I don't wan't to fill the front with foam. I don't think thats a good way to mount a tank. I'm pretty much ready except for the tank. Not gonna make the maiden this weekend though too much to do. I wish someone would post their pics of how you trimmed the canopy and cowl. It would help alot.

I'm using this tank on my Edge. [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD721&P=0]DuBro 16oz tank[/link]
Might work for you too Suitcase.

Thanks Sturtz, I've got a drawer full of tanks, new and used. I can't remember what the exact measurements are on the one I bought from Central Hobbies. It was recommended for the YS though. I guess I'm gonna have to do something different than what I've been trying because I don't see it working.

I'm still waiting for someone to post some photos of how the cowl and canopy is cut.

Well I'm back from RVator's where I've been assembling my xtra. I solved the tank issue thanks to help received here. RV removed the tank from his US 60 and it was a Dubro 12oz and small enough to fit perfectly. I pulled the fuel tubing through the firewall and connected to the tank, eased the mount into the slot behind the firewall and screwed it down with allen head machine screws. I then trimmed the belly pan, marked the spot for the wing bolts and used a rotobroach to cut the holes. I didn't know how well it would work on plastic but it cut two holes big enough for hex head 1/4-20 plastic bolte to pass through as cleanly as if they had been molded in. Not a single burr even. It's glued and drying. I connected the aileron control rods while it dries. Here's some pics of the work in progress.

Oh well, HERE are some photos.

Couple more.

Looking better all the time. I hope your Extra flys as good as they say but if it doesn't who cares. I just want to hear that YS 1.10 screaming with the straight pipe, that will make up for it. HA HA.

I used this 16 oz tank on mine. perfect fit and it angles the hoses just right. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU54&P=0

Suitcase, your extra 66 looking very good! I am drooling over that YS, should be a blast to fly!

Would like to see how you cut the cowl with that motor. If I ever go with my 1.20 Surpass on this plane its going to be inverted. Goes on much easier with no side cutouts on the cowl.[8D] Any opinion?

Well Cal, I'm a little more concerned about the engine hitting than the way it looks with the hole in the side. I would hate to break my engine. Yes since I haven't been able to get any pics of how others cut the cowl I went ahead and started cutting. I ruined my first one doing the hot water thing so I split it down the middle and sanded off the white paint inside so I could see where to start. As I enlarged the hole for the engine I didn't notice that the cowl wasn't perfectly square with the front. In other words the spinner back plate has more gap at the bottom than the top. Now to even it out the only way I see is to shorten the cowl some because the motor shaft hits the bottom of the opening before I can raise it enough to even the gap. The exhaust is another whole thing. I'm not even gonna fool with it tonight, I'm aggravated with the whole thing. Wonder what I need to do so the screws that hold the cowl on will hold? Just CA the holes? I have some #6 button head screws and bonded washers for it. Is the fuse thick enough to hold? Anyone know??

I put some wood backing to give the screws some bite (applies to canopy and bellypan too). They'll vibrate out of the balsa pretty quickly. Even with the backing, I have had a couple vibrate out so I am going to tap the hole and use a nylon machine screw instead of the metal self tapping screws.

I have attached a picture of my cowl showing the engine cutout for a Saito-100. The muffler was a beast to get around.

I contacted Vector Flight about the angle at the front of the cowl.
This was in the original mold, and was intended to be used with 3 degrees of down thrust.
There isn't much you can do about it. There is no down thrust in the 300S. In the reply he stated that is something that will be changed in the future.

Greg

Thanks for the pic Ross. I'm working toward an opening about that size my self. The angle of my muffler will cause it to hit the firewall so I'm opting for a extension only, no muffler. I was going to install fuel dots in the cowl but now I'm considering putting them back farther in the fuse. Or maybe I'll glue a piece of ply to the firewall flush with the side of the fuse and just have a hole in the cowl so I don't have to disconnect all that when I remove the cowl. I don't even feel like fooling with tonight. I put together a kit quicker than this thing goes together.

I used a fuel valve and located it on the fuselage behind the cowl. The valve is simpler than the fuel dots as long as you don't have any leaks. You wouldn't want to mess with plumbing any time you wanted to remove the cowl. Here's a picture of the full side of the plane. You can get a better idea of the fuel valve location and the cowl placement. You might like the polished landing gear. Field is fairly rough grass so no wheelpants.

Ross

I used an OS FS 1.20 on mine and mounted it inverted. was very easy to do and didn't require removing much of the cowl. The only real issue is the length from the firewall to the spinner backing plate. It's a little longer than stated in the instructions but I checked it out with VF and they said it's ok as long as you make sure the cowl is mounted flush at the top since it won't fit tight all around. I also installed a Dave Brown 120 size motor mount and mounted it at the same height as the factory 90 size but I offset it about 3/16" to the left (as viewed from the rear towards the front) to counter the 2 degree right thrust. This made the prop shaft come out in the center of the hole in the cowl. Balance can be a problem. I used Sullivan flying wires, dubro heavy duty 60-90 control horns and mounted a 6 volt battery to the bottom of the wing saddle to help with the balance. I also used dual servos on the elevator and mounted an ultralight throttle servo just behind the fuel tank. I haven't checked the final balance, but I'll let you know how it comes out. Was very close when I tested last. After I maiden it, I'll post a few pics. I think it's bad luck to take pics before that first flight and LANDING...

I use 3/4"x3/4" lightweight aluminum angle to mount remote glow plugs, fuel valves and dots. It's easy to drill a hole for the valve in the aluminum and you can mount it to the fire wall so it is flush with the cowl and you don't have to remove anything when you remove the cowl. I get mine at Home Depot

I'm using fuel dots which I mounted to the firewall using a piece of vinyl tube ala spad fuse. It's screwed to the wall and I opened up holes in the cowl to access them. It worked really well. You can see my tank install, I love it cause it makes access so simple.

Well as she stands; I'll tywrap the battery to the wing mount at the trailing edge for balance. The radio will mount to a piece of ply in front of the servo tray. Install the switch, run the engine for final check, install the cowl and set throws, head to the field. Can I make it today??? Who knows. I'll fly today but don't know if I'll get this thing ready or not. I'll post some final pics of mine if all goes well. Eric sent me some pics of his build and he did a great job. Hope mine flys as good as his looks. lol

Well I finally got it finished and headed for the field. I didn't have much hope though that I'd fly because I couldn't get the YS to run right. I know, "boy am I surprised!" Anyway, we started it which was no problem. But it wouldn't continue to run especially when I tried to taxi out. I'm headed for the glow forum for some pointers. It ran flawlessly on the bench and transition was immediate. I don't know what the difference is. I did have the muffler on it on the bench and it's not on now. It hit the firewall without an adapter so I just put one of those rubber extensions on it. I heard it would run even better without the muffler. Here is two photos of the bird at the field. I give up,, my ISP is so slow I tired of waiting for them to upload.

Ordered my Extra Aug. 19. Got it today. Almost done with the wings. Looks like it's not going to be too complicated except for the plastic parts. And yes the instructions do suck.

Hi Def. Good luck with the plane. There's a ton of little things that drag out the assembly of it. Not least of which is the tank. I just ordered a new one from Central Hobbies, mine leaked. Here's a couple pics of my completed bird. I'm using a YS 110FZ. Haven't maidened it yet though.

Here's how I did my fuel dots. Thats down spout from left over SPAD material. I screwed it to the firewall and it works great. I used a rotobroach to cut the holes in the cowl for it.

I drilled a hole just behind the angled former and glued in a antenna tube and ran the antenna out and to the vert stab. It's held tight with rubber band.

Here's a pic of the opening for the engine and muffler extension. As you can see, I'm not using the muffler at all, just the rubber extension.

There doesn't seem to be much interest in this thread so when I maiden it, Ill post the results and then I won't post anymore. If anyone is building one, you can email me and I'll help if I can.

Looks great Suitcase !!! Please post some more pics and your post maiden report.

For the antenna, I brought it out the back of the radio compartment and used a narow strip of white sign vinyl to tape it to the bottom of the fuse right to the tail (on the outside). It does a 90 deg bend at the back and runs an inch or two up the vert stab.

Ross