How are the plastic push rods on your elevators working out? Have you noticed any flex in the rods? I really like your setup but the plastic push rods concern me. I'm debating on using your setup or installing the elevator servos in the tail and using steel pushrods. How do you like you MDS? I'm thinking about putting a MDS 2.18 in mine.

I am using the semi-flexable Sullivan 4-40 rods. I'm using Rocket City control horns, and DuBro 4-40 ball links on all servo horns.

I've gotta say- my rods are bulletproof so far. I have no control surface flutter or flexing under heavy loads.

The MDS 148 was not enough power at this altitude. I had to add a lot of down elevator on loops and it had very poor vertical. Plane was about 11.75 pounds at the time.

I've made some pretty serious modifications since the first few flights.

Tank (18oz) was moved back to the CG and I had to move my rudder servo back to accomadate the new tank location.

Perry VP-20 oscillating pump with bypass loop back to the tank.

Super Tigre 3000 engine with a MA Schimitar 18-10 prop.

It hovers now.

I had to chop my cowl up a bit to accept the new ST3000. I put the pump on the motor and installed a bypass loop with a T and put a check valve in the bypass line going back to the tank. Without the bypass loop, the engine was getting too much fuel, so I installed the T and ran a line back to the third hole in the tank stopper. This allows for positive fuel flow to the carb, but directs excess fuel back to the tank. The check valve in the bypass line allows fuel to pass back into the tank, but stops air from being sucked back up the line when the tank gets low.

When I initially installed the sT3000 engine, I had to add 2.5oz of tailweight for balance. By moving my rudder servo back a little and taking the tank weight off the nose, I was able to remove 1.5oz from the tail. I have the plane balanced level with 1oz on the tail. I'm balance at the recommended point per the instruction book. 5 5/8" back I think.

Plane flys well now.

I think the MDS 2.18 would be rediculously overpowered at lower altitudes. But, I like rediculously overpowered planes. I say, go for it. Make sure you break the MDS in with low nitro fuel on a test stand before mounting it in your plane. My experience has been that they are a bit unreliable untill they have at least 1 gallon of fuel run through.

I use Omega 5% (pink) fuel in my ST and MDS engines. Both for break-in and flying. They run fine.

You might want to glass your firewall or add some other pretty serious reinforcement to it before putting that MDS 2.18 on the plane. Some have had experiences with the firewall weakening under the loads of the bigger motors.

Good luck with it, and let me know how it turns out.

Pump on ST3000 with bypass loop.

Just so I'm sure I understand, your elevator push rods are the 4-40 steel all the way through? Also, do you happen to know what your ST-3000 weighs? The MDS 2.18 weighs 48 oz + muffler, so I was wondering how that compared to the 3000. Thanks for posting all the pics, I think I'm going to use some of your ideas.

RCPilet,

I am using the ST 3000 on my CAP too and was wondering what the distance is between the thrust washer and the firewall? To get mine to 6" I need to cut off the triangle stock that is on the front of the firewall. Your picture did seems to show that you did not have to do this...

rtn9105:

My pushrods are the Sullivan grafite kind. They are the black ones with the white sleeve. I believe the package says "Semi-flexible". I had to buy the 48" long rods and cut them down to the proper length. This was because my elevator servos are in the tank compartment--way forward in the fuselage.

I would mount the engine on the firewall first. Then just put your elevator servos somewhere on the tail and check the balance. That way, you can get an idea of where the plane would balance with the servos in the tail. I'd bet that with the big 2.18 motor on the nose- you'll be pretty close to balanced with two servos in the tail for the elevators. You can always move your rudder servo around as well as the batterry for balance.

If, after putting the servos in the tail for the elevators- you find that your too tail heavy- you can always move the tank back to the CG and put your throttle servo and battery in the nose. Then add a pump- for those High G maneuvers- and you just might come out with a big fat and happy on your balance.

It's worth a try. I wish I had been able to put my elevator servos in the tail. It was a real pain in the @$$ getting all my linkages and bracing in for my long pushrods.

Galen:

My thrustwasher is 6.25" from the firewall. Yup; it sticks out a bit with the cowl on, but thats okay with me. Even if I had cut the triangle stock on the firewall to move the engine back to 6"-- I'm screwed, because my throttle servo is on the firewall right behind the engine backplate. I posted a pic of the throttle servo in this thread somewhere, just can't remember which post.

As for the weight of the ST3000- I have no idea. I'm using a J-Tec muffler with a 1/4" aluminum spacer between the muffler and motor. Without the spacer, the muffler hits the engine mount.

I'm swinging a Zinger 20-6 prop at about 7800-7900RPM with Omega 5% fuel. It swings a Zinger 18-10 or a MA Schimitar 18-10 at about 8200RPM with the same fuel.

I'm still fumbling with the pump. I'm having trouble getting the engine dialed in just perfectly. After moving the tank way back to the CG- the pump seems to be having trouble keeping up with the fuel demands of the big ST. I have the volume adjustment on the pump turned up too maximum- but still starving the engine. I am going to try and restrict my bypass loop to force more fuel into the carb. I'll probably just put some small fuel tubing on the bypass loop to restrict it. The smaller tubing on the loop will cause enough restriction to slow down the fuel in the loop. Hopefully this will force more fuel to the carb.. I hope-- I hope-- I hope..........

With all this new talk about the Cap, I am getting excited enough to put some finishing touches on her. I guess I have a weekend and I will be finished.

I liked my 33% H9 Cap so much, I copied the scheme.

Here's a pic of the front cowl over the MVVS 1.6. I cut a little too much out, but am pretty happy with the end results.

pequeajim : Where are your servos to get it to balance with the MVVS 160 ? I have the same motor to put on my Cap & could use the info. I would love to see some pics of the ignition placement, switch, batt, etc. Thanks in advance for the help & let us know how the 160 pulls her around. Thanks, Rob

RIght now I have my servos directly in the center of the fuse. My tank is rearward towards the cg.

I will take some more pics for you.

Jim!

I am using a central hobbies bellcrank.





With extended horns

How do you like the bellcrank setup? With it being that close to the horizontal stab, do your elevators have a full range of travel up and down?

Thanks for the info.
If I decide to run my push rods like yours, I'll have an advantage, since my plane is in the rebuilding process, it has no covering on it right now. So any pushrod bracing that needs to be added would be much easier to do now than later after the covering is back on.
I am still thinking of trying to get the servos in the tail and still get it balanced.

My plane came out balanced just fine with the following setup.
1. I used stock elevator servo location and ran two fiberglass pushrods straight back to the rear. required no bending or extra hole cutting.
2. I mounted the ignition battery just inside the firewall against the fuselage side. Plenty of room.
3. the Ignition module is mounted on the firewall right next to the engine mount.
4. You must reinforce the aileron servo tray glue and put extra epoxy all around the landing gear mounting plate area.
5. This plane looks really sharp if you also paint the landing gear white.
6. the Receiver is mounted behind the servo tray and the eceiver Battery is mounted behind the fuel tank.

I have recently acquired a Hanger 9 Cap 232 73" and the plane has a webra 120 2 stroke in it. I am a mild flier at best and I was wondering if this power plant would be sufficient to fly the plane around casually. I also have a super tiger 3000 would it behoove me to put the 3000 in for the 120.

Thank you

Mark

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rtn9105
How do you like the bellcrank setup? With it being that close to the horizontal stab, do your elevators have a full range of travel up and down? [/QUOTE

Yes, but I had to extend the control arm on the belcrank to get the throw that I was looking for. Everything fit fine.

I should have it up in the air in a week or so. Got a FW3D to finish first.

Jim!

I am sure it will fly casually with the Webra... Most folks on here overpower their stuff so much it is hard to believe-

I have flown the H9 Cap 232 (Matt Chapman scheme) it has a Moki 2.1- 2 stroke and it is pretty scary!

james

what do you mean by pretty scary?

Hi Guys,
Has anyone installed the ZDZ40 in the 1/4 scale H9 Cap? If so, please, PLEASE post some pictures of the throttle install (linkages etc.)

I know that Dick Hansen has a web site with a workshop that details the ZDZ 40 in a H9 Edge 540, (same mounting I think).

Do a web search for Dick Hansen Models.

Jim!

flynm,

Send me a pm with your e-mail address, I can send you the original e-mail from Dick Hanson, shows exactly what you need. I am working on the zdz 40 and h9 1/4 cap now.

Thanks,

WOOD

thanks wood

Here's the link to Dick's site where he goes into detail about the ZDZ on the H9 Edge


http://www.concentric.net/~dhmodels/workshop6.htm

Jim!

I know this is the never ending thread but I had just a quick ? for all the people experienced with h9 73" cap.

I just finished mine with 2 elevator servos mounted in the tail. I mounted my saito 1.80 as far forward as it could go. It is way tail heavy. I have (2) 6oz sticks of lead on the nose and it bal at 5 5/8" from the leading edge.

I really hate putting 12oz of dead weight in my plane. Any suggestions?????

caliber30, I had a Saito1.80 in mine with the servos mounted in the stock location and two DB fibverglass pushrods going straight back to each servo. worked great and balanced nicely with only a couple of onces in the nose. I'll add a pic when I get home tonight.