On some of the past threads regarding this model, mention was made of things starting to let go after some flying; mainly glue joints.

Anyone have any current feedback on this?

Steve

I can't speak for the g-trick, but I have had problems in the past with kyosho arfs busting glue joints. On my Pitts S2C, after the second flight the firewall separated and the only thing holding the firewal/engine on was the cowl. Still landed it safely, but it still shouldn't have happened. I emailed Kyosho and aparently they went through a period where they had a bad batch of glue. Kinda makes you wonder huh!!! I personally will NOT own another Kyosho plane again. Lost my pitts and my cap 232, but that's a totaly different story......

if you are wanting an aerobatic plane similar to the g-trick, look into the u-can-do 3D from great planes. Here are the specs for both.


Kyosho G-Trick
Wingspan: 66.1" (1680mm)
Wing Area: 810 sq in (52.25dm)
Weight: 8.2-8.4 lb (3700-3800g)
Length: 65.4" (1660mm)
Wing Loading: 23.4 - 24 oz/sq ft
Airfoil: Fully Symmetrical, Mid Wing
Engine: .90-.91 (2-stroke) or .90-.91 (4-stroke)
Tuned pipe
Price: 467.49 (tower hobbies)


Great Planes U-CAN-DO-3D
Wingspan: 65" (1651mm)
Wing Area: 1024 sq in (66.1 sq dm)
Weight: 7.75 lb (3.5 kg)
Wing Loading: 16-17 oz/sq ft (49-52 g/sq dm)
Length: 68" (1725mm)
Airfoil: Fully-symmetrical mid-wing
Engine: .61 -.91 (10-15cc) (2-stroke)
OR .70 -.91 (11.5-15cc)(4-stroke
Price: 189.99 (Tower Hobbies)

Pretty similar. But the Kyosho cost over 2 times more that the GP. Plus the GP ARFs are built allot better that the Kyosho. This is just my $.02. But I know which one I would get!! I hope this helps ya out!! :thumbup:

I have the G-Trick and have been flying it most all summer. It's held up well, so far! you may have read my previous posts about the initial quality of the plane. If you were to get one, I'd get a bottle of CA and some epoxy and go over it pretty well. (like inside the fuse, between the balsa sides and fuse doublers, add tri-stock under landing gear mount, wing hold down, etc, etc).

As far as comparing it to the UCD3D - while I don't have one of those - I think the G-Trick is geared more towards pattern. UCD3D has a much fatter wing and is meant for more of the slow, 3D stuff. The G-Trick excels best at the pattern type maneuvers. while it does have pretty big control surfaces, its weight doesn't lend itself well to the same 3D type of flying the UCD3D is known for.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, ask away! Again, mine is still going strong (purchased Dec. 31, 2001) and will have to do no more maintenance for next year (other than usual inspection). Flying mine on YS 91.

Regards,
Scott

The G-trick is definitely NOT a UCD. As for Kyosho ARFs, in my opinion they are very good quality and are actually very-well protected in their boxes. Compare that to people getting smashed ribs in their UCD wings and LG blocks that fall out, you get the idea. I have built two KY ARFs and own a Majestic, would not hesitate to buy another Kyosho ARF. I have also seen a G-trick up close and it was very nice. You get what you pay for.

Thanks, Scott, I was hoping you'd chime in.

A pal has the UCD. Interesting airplane, but I already have a Kangke CAP 232 Sport that is almost as agile. I'm looking for the pattern-like looks and performance. To be honest, I'm just curious at this point. It's either going to be one of these or a Raptor 60 helo; can't make up my mind!<G>

I too will be using a YS 91FZ. Also, PCM with 9252s. I have some big Dubro nylon hinges to replace the metal ones. How about the other kit hardware; particularly the tank? Is there room to put a Dubro 14 ouncer in there?

Mention has been made of the flimsiness of the glass in the wheel pants. Does this apply to the other glass parts as well? I'm fighting this right now on my H9 CAP 232.

On THAT topic, are the wheels big enough to fly off grass with?

Any other nuggets would be appreciated...

Steve

I've got a couple of Kyosho ARFs and the quality IMHO is VERY GOOD.

The glass work is great on the G-Trick. I haven't flown with the wheel pants on, mainly because I've been to busy and at times lazy to put them on! We fly off a grass runway that has been covered in astroturf (thank you Atlanta Falcons!). Sometimes I land it in the grass to get it slowed down after landing and it does well - but I suspect with the wheel pants on it may bog it down.

wheel pants don't seem too thin to me. due to some carelessness in handling, I've chipped the 'glass on the belly pan in some small parts. that's it.

I love my G-Trick and been contemplating another if the price at Tower keeps on dropping (knock on wood).

I'd suggest dual elev servos or a setup like Central hobbies has (bellcrank on elevator). But then you'd have to hack up the fuse to get it in there. That's why I went for the dual elev servos (9202, work great).

It gets lots of oooohs and ahhhhs at the field. Knife-edge like you wont believe with almost no coupling. Snaps start and stop when you want. fly it first on low rates and then go from there.

Move tank to CG.

here are some websites to help you out:
http://www04.u-page.so-net.ne.jp/fa2...0/Gtrick90.htm

http://www3.justnet.ne.jp/~n.aoki/Sub9.htm

http://www.rcaerosport.com/articles/...ick/gtrick.htm

http://at.sakura.ne.jp/~mfc/technical/technical.html

Enjoy!

Thanks a heap, Scott.

Man, you're making this decision easier...<G>

Steve