Sweet Denis.
Lucky (read: Patient) dog, that is a great deal!!!

This is a great thread. This is one of those planes I'd quickly pass over on Tower's site having never seen (or heard of) a full scale Staggerwing, and with which the picture on Tower's site doesn't do justice.

After skimming through here, seeing real photos of the Top Flite plane AND pics of the 'real' Staggerwing, it has bumped it's way to the top of my wish list. As soon as I can find room to store another plane...[8D]

Joe:

If you EVER get a chance to attend a "Classic Aircraft" fly in, do it. Witnessing a full size Beech Staggerwing in flight will make a believer out of you !

"can I get a witness ???????



Denis

Amen, Brother!!!

Ikon N'west kit. I'd love to be able to say I was the builder, but I'm just the happy owner. When I got it, it still had Kraft servos. I installed new Hitec servos and a Spektrum Rx. Onboard glow is homebrewed... made it from a servo, a toggle switch and a great big 4,400 mAh NiCd D-cell. It's a great flyer. Here's Budd Davisson's article about the full scale. It's still flying around somewhere down in Florida. http://www.airbum.com/pireps/PirepC3.html

If you ever get tired of flying the beautiful Ryan of yours I'm sure we could work out some sort of trade

Appreciate that info on the C-3

no lack of personality that one !



Denis

Here's a Byron Staggerwing if anyone needs a project: http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=501350

Called my local hobby shops and YES...he has the Top Flite Staggerwing in stock! Picked up the large box ($75 below Tower price to boot!). Ordered the retracts and brought her home. After taking all the parts out of the box the only sign of any damage was the windshield pulling away from the fuse (as others have mentioned earlier in this thread). I'm looking forward to the build. At long last we are together...now to figure out the engine to use.

Good for you, Tim. Welcome to the thread.
Re engines, I can tell you that installation doesn't get any better than the OS160 2 stroke, which was used in the prototype. Use the OS metal mount, put a 1/4 ply spacer behind it, and measure, drill and bolt into place. Takes about 15 minutes and all reports are that the 160 flies the airplane great.
Al

You can see the install in the background.

Oops. Sorry for the double post. If you'd like some closer pics I'll be glad to make a couple and post them for you.
Al

I second Al's opinion. If I were to do it all over again, I'd go with the 1.60 2-stroke as well. In terms of economy, simplicity and ease of use, that combination is hard to beat. I coulda built and flown three of them for the $ I've sunk into mine [:-] Geez, that's a depressing thought lol

Al - Your FW is looking great! When's the maiden flight?

Thanks, Paul
The maiden'll be in the next month. I have a little more work to do, then I want the weather to calm down a bit. Right now it's in the high 70s; tee shirts and shorts at the field today. Tonight in the 30s, tomorow it's supposed to be in the low 40s, high winds, rain and a possibility of some snow. Lousy until Friday. Come on May!!! LOL
Al

Thanks for the advice guys, you are speaking to the practical side of me. With the 1.60 two stroke did you have to add a lot of nose weight? I've been planning on a 4 stroke twin for this but haven't made up my mind. I have been debating whether to go with the OS 3.00. Are these twins hard to set up and run? They do sound great but I have no experience with them. Thanks again,

Tim

I'll defer to Al regarding the nose weight question. Concerning the four stroke twins, they are not at all difficult to set up or run. I would recommend using onboard glow to keep the cylinders lit at low rpms but that's the only "complication". They start easy, run great and sound fantastic.

Haven't yet balanced mine, as I'm finishing up the Focke Wulf before I get back to the Staggerbeech. But Rowdog used the OS and added weight to balance. Can't remember how much weight he added but it will take some, no doubt about that. It's posted on here.

I just finished mounting the engine on mine tonight ( OS 160 twin). Again for the nose weight i will be placing eveything I can up front, including reciever battery and on board glow battery. Give me a week or so and lets see if I have to come up with nose weight !

Photos will be posted of the engine installation: Just not tonight: Its toddy time here in warm Arizona !!!!!

Denis

knucklebutt,
What prop are you gonna use?

Mike;

I was just thinking about props: Lets see: the manual says from 15 X 8 to 20 X 6. So I think I'm gonna start with an 18 X 6

Got any suggestions ? Do you have this engine: if so would love to get your input


Denis

O.K. Gang Here's one of the mods I did. I know most of you have finished you Beech already, however for those who haven't;

Tail wheel doors; very flimsy, most will be warped; I reinforced with a piece of 3/32 wire epoxied. That got em good and stiff; also chucked the wood pieces that hold the rubber bands. Made my own out of brass, and attached springs. (youre not gonna use rubber bands in Arizona, they dry up and crack within a week) Also; that aluminum door spreader;;;; round out those edges one thing A & P school taught me: No pointed or sharp edges on any metal piece, round off all corners. Added a little dark red paint, and there ya go

Denis

Nicely done Denis...thanks for the tip, I'll keep this mod in mind...looks great. Do you have pics of the 1.60 mounted? Please share, love all the pics.

Tim

Engine Install:

For the 160 twin you will need spacers to fit the engine to the cowl opening. I used nylon spacers available at the local hardware store. I needed exactly 1 1/4 " for the correct fit. Again for nose weight purposes I mounted the throttle servo on the firewall. I favor this over a long pushrod. I cut and epoxied 1/4 spruce to form an "L" shape, epoxied and screwed the spruce mount into the firewall, brushed on finishing resin to make it fuel proof. Next: on to the on board glow system:

Denis

Sorry photos didn't make it on that last post: here ya go

Looks great Denis. Are you worried about the throttle servo getting oil in it? I'm assuming you don't have to cut the cowl for the heads. Looks like I may be able to squeeze an OS 3.00 in the nose (cut out for the heads in the cowl I'm sure)