World Models Fun Fly 3D 1.20
#54
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From: Canton,
MI
I am using Airtronics radio. Planning to use 94161 (hi torq metal gear) on rudder, elevators, and ailerons, then use 94743 on flaps. Regular servo for throttle.
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From: Tulsa, OK,
Ok, I have to ask. I've found lots of stuff here on RCU on this plane. But not one person who flew it yet, that I found. I've got one in my shop, but I want to hear your opinions on the ebgine of choice!
Gordon
Gordon
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From: New Holland,
PA
I think most of us are in the middle of some pretty bad weather and have not been able to get out and fly.
I for one have just started on the plane.
I am going to put a Saito 1.20 4 stroke in it.
Jim!
I for one have just started on the plane.
I am going to put a Saito 1.20 4 stroke in it.
Jim!
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From: Tulsa, OK,
True enough Jim. We've been very lucky here, weather is bad then good, haven't missed a week without flying yet this winter! can't wait to hear the reviews on this one.
I'm thinking about a Moki 1.35 or the OS 1.60fx, but I want to hear what others do. I was thinking gasser, but the powwer to weight doesn't look good to me. ( but I've never had one, either!)
Gordon
I'm thinking about a Moki 1.35 or the OS 1.60fx, but I want to hear what others do. I was thinking gasser, but the powwer to weight doesn't look good to me. ( but I've never had one, either!)
Gordon
#61
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From: Canton,
MI
Anybody mounted the motor on the soft mount yet? I was planning on Enya 1.55 4-sroke, but found that some machining required on the mount plate. I might try my OS 1.60 if the dimension fits w/o major work.
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From: Tulsa, OK,
Hello Sean
I am leaning towards the 1.60 fx. Sounds like you already have this motor, how have you liked it and what did it pull? I know it's gonna be a glow-hog, but I guess that's just life. The weight is only 2 oz heavier than the OS 1.20 4s but puts out nearly 2x the rated horsepower. I've been moving to 4s on my scale stuff, but we'll see here.
Gordon
I am leaning towards the 1.60 fx. Sounds like you already have this motor, how have you liked it and what did it pull? I know it's gonna be a glow-hog, but I guess that's just life. The weight is only 2 oz heavier than the OS 1.20 4s but puts out nearly 2x the rated horsepower. I've been moving to 4s on my scale stuff, but we'll see here.
Gordon
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From: quincy,
IL
Mine is real close to being ready to fly. I'm going with a TT1.2 two stroke. I have an OS 1.6 in reserve if it doesn't perform. I'll be ready to fly in the next week or so, if the weather cooperates. Has anyone made any modifications or changes? I questioned the aft section of the fuselage being all balsa, it seem like a weak point. I uncovered the bottom of the rear open frame work and glued all the joints, then covered it back up. While it was open I put my servos in along with the extensions for my cables.If feels stiffer to me now. Pete
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From: quincy,
IL
I found one of the balsa diagonals that was loose. As it felt around the fuse I just thought I would benefit gluing everything. Cutting the covering off of the bottom open frame work allowed me to get to all of it. It makes me feel better knowing that everything is secure. Also, just for information, my weight is 9 pounds ready to fly. Pete
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From: Tulsa, OK,
Great Pete, Thanks for the weight. Yours is the first I know of ready to fly. When will it go up? Do you know of the weight of your engine? And what sort of muffler are you using?
Gordon
Gordon
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From: New Holland,
PA
Thanks for the information
I think I will to the same to mine as I would feel a little better about the construction. It just "feels" a little less sturdy than my Super Sports Senior, which is really tough.
Great looking plane though.
Jim!
I think I will to the same to mine as I would feel a little better about the construction. It just "feels" a little less sturdy than my Super Sports Senior, which is really tough.
Great looking plane though.
Jim!
#68
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From: Canton,
MI
Actually, I got out my drill and machined the mount for my Enya 1.55 4-stroke. It wasn't too bad. I had to use a much larger bit to "counter-sink" for the flat head screws.
Man, with this soft mount setup, my engine fit was really tight. I had to replace the throttle arm with a servo arm to get it out to where the pushrod would actually meet.
gbisapk:
I have the OS 1.60 in another plane now. Its power is pretty good, but I don't like its midrange and transition. Oh, the weight difference of 2 oz does not account for muffler. With the lightese muffler you can find for the 1.60 (BCM Pitts), the total weight is 37 oz., 5 oz heavier than a 1.20 4-stroke set-up. Not to say that the 1.60 FX won't pull its extra weight... I just don't think it's necessary. Perhaps actual flights will prove me wrong. But to start, I will use the Enya 1.55 4-stroke swinging 17x6 APC @ 9000+ hopefully.
As for CG, it's about dead on the instructed location w/ the Enya, which weighs 34 oz including muffler, w/ battery pack by the rudder servo. If I need to move it aft, I can just stuff my 3x2 5-cell NiMH behind the elevator servos.
Man, with this soft mount setup, my engine fit was really tight. I had to replace the throttle arm with a servo arm to get it out to where the pushrod would actually meet.
gbisapk:
I have the OS 1.60 in another plane now. Its power is pretty good, but I don't like its midrange and transition. Oh, the weight difference of 2 oz does not account for muffler. With the lightese muffler you can find for the 1.60 (BCM Pitts), the total weight is 37 oz., 5 oz heavier than a 1.20 4-stroke set-up. Not to say that the 1.60 FX won't pull its extra weight... I just don't think it's necessary. Perhaps actual flights will prove me wrong. But to start, I will use the Enya 1.55 4-stroke swinging 17x6 APC @ 9000+ hopefully.
As for CG, it's about dead on the instructed location w/ the Enya, which weighs 34 oz including muffler, w/ battery pack by the rudder servo. If I need to move it aft, I can just stuff my 3x2 5-cell NiMH behind the elevator servos.
#69
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From: quincy,
IL
The TT 1.2 weighs 30 ounces with the muffler and puts out 220 plus ounces of thrust, according to R/C Report magazine. I think it will have a decent thrust to weight ratio. I'm hoping to fly it some time in the next week or two. We just got eight inches of snow, so the field will be a mess for a while. Com'on spring!!!!!!!!
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From: New Holland,
PA
Originally posted by fxstbi
I found one of the balsa diagonals that was loose. As it felt around the fuse I just thought I would benefit gluing everything. Cutting the covering off of the bottom open frame work allowed me to get to all of it. It makes me feel better knowing that everything is secure. Also, just for information, my weight is 9 pounds ready to fly. Pete
I found one of the balsa diagonals that was loose. As it felt around the fuse I just thought I would benefit gluing everything. Cutting the covering off of the bottom open frame work allowed me to get to all of it. It makes me feel better knowing that everything is secure. Also, just for information, my weight is 9 pounds ready to fly. Pete
How did you cut open the covering on the bottom. I don't want to lose any of this stuff as it is an odd color. Did you cut on the black tape around the side of the fuse? Do you have a pic?
Jim!
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From: quincy,
IL
Jim,
I cut on the bottom side just inside of the lower longerons. When I was finished I covered it with a piece of black monokote and stopped it where the balsa sheeting starts at the wing trailing edge. I used a "saw tooth" at the trailing edge location so it would look like it was broken out, looks sort of cool. I'll try to get a picture on tomorrow. Pete
I cut on the bottom side just inside of the lower longerons. When I was finished I covered it with a piece of black monokote and stopped it where the balsa sheeting starts at the wing trailing edge. I used a "saw tooth" at the trailing edge location so it would look like it was broken out, looks sort of cool. I'll try to get a picture on tomorrow. Pete
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From: quincy,
IL
Jim,
Here is a picture of how I covered the bottom of my plane, nothing fancy but it looks fine for me. If it wasn't on the bottom I would have had a better idea, but not many people will see it except when I hover. And then they will be so impressed with my flying skills that they won't even notice the covering! Ha!
pceagon,
the rudder cables come out on top of the fuse just in front of the vertical fin. I drilled a hole in the balsa block by the fin and took a rat tail file and made it a long tapered slot. The cable cleared the rear bulk head and had to pass over the first balsa stick at the base of the fin and went under the rest of the other sticks, straight to my servo. I hope that makes sense. Pete
Here is a picture of how I covered the bottom of my plane, nothing fancy but it looks fine for me. If it wasn't on the bottom I would have had a better idea, but not many people will see it except when I hover. And then they will be so impressed with my flying skills that they won't even notice the covering! Ha!
pceagon,
the rudder cables come out on top of the fuse just in front of the vertical fin. I drilled a hole in the balsa block by the fin and took a rat tail file and made it a long tapered slot. The cable cleared the rear bulk head and had to pass over the first balsa stick at the base of the fin and went under the rest of the other sticks, straight to my servo. I hope that makes sense. Pete
#75

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I was so impressed with my friends plane that I bought one and when I started working on it I was more impressed.
Little things like the fiberglassed firewall, the quality of the cowl and the great paint work. Even the tubes were installed in the tail for the braces and nylon guides for the rudder cables instead of the usual balsa slots.
Since both of my Saito 180 engines are in World Mustangs I've installed a new MDS 148 with OS 7-D carb and BCM muffler.
Will fly Saturday for the first time weather permitting.
pceagon...
The cable guides are 1 inch back and a 1/4 inch down from the foreward end of the vert fin where it meets the fuse.
Just rub the area with a finger and you'll see them.
Just cut away the covering with a #11 blade.
Be carefull when pulling the cables through, they must go OVER
the two 1/4 inch balsa fuse braces.
Little things like the fiberglassed firewall, the quality of the cowl and the great paint work. Even the tubes were installed in the tail for the braces and nylon guides for the rudder cables instead of the usual balsa slots.
Since both of my Saito 180 engines are in World Mustangs I've installed a new MDS 148 with OS 7-D carb and BCM muffler.
Will fly Saturday for the first time weather permitting.
pceagon...
The cable guides are 1 inch back and a 1/4 inch down from the foreward end of the vert fin where it meets the fuse.
Just rub the area with a finger and you'll see them.
Just cut away the covering with a #11 blade.
Be carefull when pulling the cables through, they must go OVER
the two 1/4 inch balsa fuse braces.



What size servos are you using on your models?