Help Desk
03-31-2006, 09:57 AM
#26
RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: darock
Hey, bubbagates, can I make a suggestion? If you make one thread a sticky that's going to collect a mishmash of topics hidden within it, you're going to cut the legs out from under the orderly way a forum works. Forums are way easier to surf when each topic or question or subject has it's own thread and title. Right now, this forum has a ton of individual threads asking for help about specific topics. What'd it be like if none of them had titles and were all just one post after another in one thread?
Stickbuilder,
If this works outs fairly well, I'll see about placing it as a sticky at the top of this forum
If this works outs fairly well, I'll see about placing it as a sticky at the top of this forum
As I did mention before, there are four of us already working on a very comprehensive FAQ for beginners over in the beginners forum. You can see that here. It includes a list of questions that has been updated allot
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4038219
This will eventually get into the beginners forum at the top.
Now if you are guys are will to do something like this for dealing with the most common problems and resolutions with ARF's now that too would be a great thing.
03-31-2006, 04:11 PM
#28
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RE: Help Desk
yo stickbuilder...i am totally bummed that your other thread was shut down. i was getting ready to address some of your opponents. been reading it for a few days to see what more developed, then just checked it..and its closed. i support you 110% in what you had to offer about poor quality and lack of concern by the manufacturers to take corrective steps. that thread also proved to me that still today...the p.t. barnum theory lives stronger than ever. i also commend you for having the courage and backbone to tell it like it really is...and not like product review authors in some of the model magazines. keep up the teriffic work!!!
03-31-2006, 06:27 PM
#30
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RE: Help Desk
well i tried to email him, but couldnt...and was in a rush so didnt take the time to pursue finding out how to. i found him here so thought i would let him know on this thread, but your point is taken...
03-31-2006, 07:16 PM
#31
Thread Starter
RE: Help Desk
The name of this thread says it all. I will not answer anything that I think will lead to a urinating contest. I wanted to help where needed, and This (so far) is the place for it. Even here, there are those who want it moved, or re-structured, but I don't know how to do this. I'm an old (well, sorta) man, and I just barely get by on this PC. Maybe someone else knows how to work this contraption better than I do, but until that comes along, I'll keep on, keepin on. 
Bill
Bill
03-31-2006, 10:26 PM
#32
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RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: darock
With the airplane rigged like it is in the picture, take some scrap anything and cut it to fit where you want one of the interplanes to go. Take a pen or pencil and stick it through the attachment holes top and bottom, as if you were trying to mark where to drill attachment holes in that interplane strut. Now take that scrap over to the other side and mark those holes. The bottom marks should overwrite each other and the top marks should be one above the other. Halfway between those top two marks is where you'd drill the top holes if you ignored the fact that your cabane struts aren't "square".
You need to sand down one of your cabane saddles (the "tall" one) so that the two wings are parallel. You need to do that first. The plan I just suggested to you for measuring to find the average distance for the interplane struts will help you when you're sanding down the tall cabane saddle.
Once you get the cabane struts equal, use some more scrap and verify the distances for the interplane struts. They should be equal now.
With the airplane rigged like it is in the picture, take some scrap anything and cut it to fit where you want one of the interplanes to go. Take a pen or pencil and stick it through the attachment holes top and bottom, as if you were trying to mark where to drill attachment holes in that interplane strut. Now take that scrap over to the other side and mark those holes. The bottom marks should overwrite each other and the top marks should be one above the other. Halfway between those top two marks is where you'd drill the top holes if you ignored the fact that your cabane struts aren't "square".
You need to sand down one of your cabane saddles (the "tall" one) so that the two wings are parallel. You need to do that first. The plan I just suggested to you for measuring to find the average distance for the interplane struts will help you when you're sanding down the tall cabane saddle.
Once you get the cabane struts equal, use some more scrap and verify the distances for the interplane struts. They should be equal now.
Thanks this should works! I don't know why I did not think of this before, I use to center a light fixture using a stick in much the same as you explained, when I was in the electrical trade. I will let you know when it's done.
Thanks
roltech
03-31-2006, 10:41 PM
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RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Are the measurments the same for both sides? It may be due to the perspective of the photo, but I wonder... Check the dimensions for both sides. They should be equal, and the struts are to maintain dimension, not alter the dimension and cause the wing panel to move. Hope this helps.
Are the measurments the same for both sides? It may be due to the perspective of the photo, but I wonder... Check the dimensions for both sides. They should be equal, and the struts are to maintain dimension, not alter the dimension and cause the wing panel to move. Hope this helps.
I can see this thread, solving many problems, if one thinking head is good, many is got to be better.
Thanks To all of you.
roltech
04-03-2006, 10:01 PM
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RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Makin it easy to find.
Makin it easy to find.
running real good, there are more adjustments valve, but I did not want to mess with them yet , it might need a good line and carb cleaning??? if you have any experience with this motor, I would appreciate all the info I can get. I will try again so I can note more information to note.
Thanks
roltech
04-04-2006, 04:44 AM
#39
Thread Starter
RE: Help Desk
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
04-04-2006, 09:28 PM
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RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
Thanks
roltech
04-06-2006, 02:38 PM
#41
Thread Starter
RE: Help Desk
Often the diaphragm can become dry and lose it's pliability. If you soak it in fuel, this may correct the problem for you. If I remember correctly, this diaphragm receives its signal from the crankcase and it is a pressure pulse tyoe pump. They are normally bullet proof.
04-09-2006, 12:37 AM
#43
RE: Help Desk
Stickbuilder, just wanted to lend a word of support for what you are doing. I am not yet retired, and, although I very much enjoy helping and enchouraging both new, and not so new, in the hobby, my time is limited right now. All I can do is pop in and out once in a while. I envy your situation. Keep up the good work and thank heaven for the rebirth.
04-09-2006, 05:00 AM
#44
Thread Starter
RE: Help Desk
Retiring is one thing... Getting the wife to let you stay that way is another...[&o] I am working...again... Naw, I can't stand days that are not structured. I'll probably do something useful until I go for the dirt nap.
04-17-2006, 09:08 PM
#46
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RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
Well if you have any additional information It will greatly appreciated.
Thank You
roltech
04-17-2006, 09:44 PM
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RE: Help Desk
ORIGINAL: roltech
Thanks for the info. I finally got it started! but still have some problem with throttle adjustment, works great from half to WOT. but will stop if I bring the throttle lower then half on TX. One thing I might add. there is a line with a plug, when the plug is inserted and engine running, the motor runs for about one to three min. than dies, I also noted that the carb fuel feed line before it dies bubbles are present. Funny thing though if I take out this plug from the line the motor runs till it's out of gas and no bubbles, but will not run lower than half speed, I think that the high speed needle valve is OK by the muffler residue seem to be OK med to light oil spray out of the muffler. I did the nose up WOT runs great, now looking to solve the lower speed to idle, I was thinking, is the reason that leaving the plug on that line that goes to the fuel thank. that a vacuum is created and the pump can no longer suck the fuel out? starving the carb?
Well if you have any additional information It will greatly appreciated.
Thank You
roltech
ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
Sounds like the pump needs cleaning. I would clean the carb as well. take notes as to the original low and high speed needle settings. (count the turns to close) and set the needles to these positions when re-installing. You won't believe the trash that can be found there. Sounds like this may fix your problem. The .61 SF is kinda fool proof. (as long as you don't run it too lean and cook it)
Well if you have any additional information It will greatly appreciated.
Thank You
roltech
04-19-2006, 06:49 PM
#49
Thread Starter
RE: Help Desk
That line with the fill plug in place appears to be the filler line to the tank. I think that you need a vent to the tank to keep vacuum from overcoming the pressure-pulse pump's ability to draw fuel. On non pumped engines, that is accomplished by the line from the muffler. Did you completely tear your carb down? If not, you may have a piece of trash hiding under one of the needles. I had a supertiger 90 several years ago that would starve itself for no explainable reason. Finally after about the 10th tear-down I found a very small grass seed hiding in the High speed needle spray bar.