I've been looking at the plane for a while now. Thought it was a good price at $99. With the sale Hobby People has right now, $20 off online orders, I had to get one.

I got the plane for under $81, shipped to my door for $97.

I was amazed at how well it is put togethor. No need to get the iron out on this one. I hope to start it this weekend. Seems like a pretty easy build so hopefully it won't take long.

I plan on putting a Saito 72 in the nose.

Salty--

I built one of these as a raffle plane for a club function. It was generously donated with an OS 70 FS and radio by our local hobby shop. Wait till you try and install engine mounts/engine/cowl. Oh and the pickle fork that runs the elevator. It is supposed to be a 3D plane, but there is not room to mount the elevator and rudder servos and still have enough room for servo arms with enough length for 3D throws. You might consider stacking the servos if you want wild throws. None of the cross brace balsa sticks were cut on an angle, just square ends butt glues into corners--check the airelons. I'm sure it will fly OK but it was the most frustrating ARF assembly I have experienced. If you are looking for a great ARF that is similar to this turkey, check out the Seagull Harrier. It comes in a 40 and 60 size and was an easy build and is a delight to fly.

Good luck and post your impressions of this kit.

Greg

Greg,

Thanks for the comment on your build. I'm not a 3D flyer by any means. I would put me down as a basic sunday flyer. I only do the very basic aerobatics. I've always had fun with planes with the thick airfoil; SSE, Magic Extra, Funtana. I figure this would be a good combo with the thick wing and tall fuse.

If after I fly it a few times and I think I need more throw, I was actually looking at how little room is in there. I figure I can put the elevator servo in the fuse and tail mount the rudder servo. I think I would have to add nose weight if I put dual elevator servos in and left the pull-pull inside the fuse.

How did your build balance with the 70FS?

Salty--

I don't recall any issues with CG. I must have installed battery behind cockpit area. Like I said, I'm sure it will fly OK and if you are just using for sport flying should be fine. The guy that won our raffle plane is not one of our members, I have not met him before, and he was flying a heli the day of our funfly. He bought one ticket and won! I have not seen him since the event (May 21, 2006). Pictures of the plane are on our web site at www.hawksrc.org. Click on Hamilton Hobbies Fun Fly.

Greg

Greg,

That looks almost like me. LOL

I took some measurements, getting ready to mount the engine, and it seems the Saito may be a tad long. If I measured it right the spinner back plate will be about a 1/2 inch from the tip of the nose cone. I'm going to see how long the OS 70FS is, your mount seemed to fit alright.

Did you drill the engine mount holes as put in the directions or did you come up with your own location?

I started putting it togethor last night. I got the wings glued and servo mount holes drilled. I was hoping to get it done today and tomorrow, but the wife dumped a bunch of "get 'er dones" when she found out I took the day off. Oh well... I'll do what I can.

The plane looked good. I still haven't figured out what I'm going to put on it yet. I also have a couple of pilots I'm in the process of interviewing for this one.

Right now it's between Mr. Skinner and the USA Beany Baby.

I looked on the OS website. The manuals show the OS to be longer then the Saito. Maybe I missed something on my measurement or forgot to carry the 2.

So, on with the assembly.

I found it impossible to install the engine the way the directions suggested. If I remember right, I taped the cowl on so it looked right and then made a mark on the fire wall that lined up with the center of the hole in the cowl. Next I bolted the engine to the mounts as far to the rear as I could and then set the engine/mount assembly on the fire wall and slid it around untill the mark on the firewall from ealier looked like it was lines up with the propshaft. Transfer the holes from the engine mount and then drill the firewall. As I recall, the instructions were vague about which bolts to use for mounting the engine to the firewall. After you have this done, then you can begin carving out the cowl for cylinder head etc. I don't see how you could ever set the engine on the firewall and then "place the cowl over it and move it around till it lines up" as the directions indicate. There may be better ways to do this, but this is the method I used. Came out pretty close. There is a little offset with the cowl, but not very noticeable.

When you get to the pickle fork for the elevator, I cut the slots in the fuse for it, per the plans then layed the assembled for on the bottom of the plane for reference and made the bends in the fork. To get the ends thru the slots, I used the inner nyrod of a set of plastic inner pushrods and threaded them through the slots and onto th pushrod ends. In my case, the fork compressed enough when I pulled it through the fuse to allow the bends to exit the slots at the proper location. Not sure if I was lucky or good, but the threaded ends were the right length.

Keep me posted on your progress.

Greg

I did something similar to that to get the shaft lined up with the cowl.

I mounted the engine on the mount; kinda screwed that up. I tried to leave room for the carb in back, but forgot to leave room for the mount bolt heads. [:@]

I then sat the engine and mount on the firewall, holding the plane vertical of course. I put the cowl on the fuse and just move it around until the shaft sat in the center of the hole. I did have to cut some area away for the head before I could get it work. I also put a spinner on the shaft to see how it would look.

Here is a pic with the spinner sitting on the shaft and then the final mount of the engine and cowl.

I haven't put the time in I thought I would so it's still in progress. So I won't get to fly it this weekend but I may next.

Let's see, I have to put on:
elevators - stab is glued in
rudder - easy CA hinges
linkages for the control surfaces
belly pan
canopy

Sounds simple... key word is sounds.

Got the entire nose section complete and the tail feathers are on. I just need to install the elevator setup to complete the tail.

I decided to go with a 13X8 for starters. Went to the LHS to get one and all they had was MAS. No worries, I'll use it until the APCs come in.

Dripped a little CA on the rudder and wouldn't you know it... out of debonder. [X(]

Canopy and belly pan tomorrow morning and then the radio gear.

Salty--

Your plane looks great. Thinking back, I had to dremmel out most of the lower front portion of the cowl to allow clearance for the OS 70 cylinder. I was only able to save a small (.25" +/-) strip of cowling. I'm sure it will crack first time it's flown. Doesn't show though unless you look closely. Keep us up to date with your first flights and impressions.

Greg

Thanks Greg.

The plane seemed like a simple build. I thougth I would have some trouble getting the engine to mount on the firewall, but it wasn't that hard.

I ran into a snag the other day and I put the plane on hold for a few days. I cut the holes for the tail cables and push rods as stated in the manual. After running the pull-pull cables I noticed the cable was binding against the edges of the holes I cut. I remeasured them to see how I got it wrong. Even went back a few hours later and it still came out that I cut the holes like the manual stated.

So now I'm going to have to increse the size of the holes for the wires to move freely. I have to decide how I want to cover the HUGE hole in the sides of the plane. I could either glue in a piece of balsa or just put some covering over the hole.

I'll probably wind up putting a piece of balsa in so that it's done right.

So I won't be flying it this weekend, so maybe I can get it done this weekend and get it in the air next.

Not much left to do on it; belly pan still, canopy and radio gear. Oh yeah, and those darn holes.


I'll post a pic of the bottom of the cowl so you can see how much I had to cut out.

Here are a couple of pics of the bottom of the cowl. I wasn't intending to make the hole that big, it just worked out that way.

I think mine was cut a little more, yours looks great. I remember having trouble getting landing gear machine screws in.

I didn't like the idea of using wood screws. I put in machine screws and blind nuts. I think I used 4X40 screws; I flew my 4*60 for years with that size on the gear.

After I wrote that post yesterday I was getting ready for work when I saw what I did wrong. I took out my ruler and looked in the manual to be sure of what I was seeing. I put the rudder horn too high. [&:] Well, that will be an easier fix then cutting out the fuse for the cables.

I'll see about putting on the belly pan when I get off tonight, if I'm not too tired.

Interviews for the pilot position are coming to a close. There was an unexpected entrant that appeared impressive so now it's three in the final push for the position.

Progress:

I got the rudder fixed; funny how things work when you put them togethor right. Belly pan is glued in and looking good. Pilot interviews are done. Cookie Monster came out of the blue and was VERY impressive.

So the planes done, got the radio dialed in, except for the ailerons but that's not big deal. I always save those for last.

I get out the ol' balanco-meter and flipped the plane upside down. Get it laid on there ever so gentle.

It's a little tail heavy so I first put the battery way up on the fuse; I can put it in the tank compartment plenty of room. Still tail heavy so I get out the lead and see what I need. 8 ounces [:@] on the engine for balance. Way too much.

So now I'm thinking about some mods to cut out having to stick on so much lead. I'm going to move the throttle servo to the front of the radio compartment first. If I still need nose weight I'll get a heavy hub. The hub will get me nose heavy I'm sure but it should put in the range of just moving the battery around.

I thought I would be nose heavy with that 72 up there.

Greg, if you're still following this: did your build come out tail heavy?

So much for flying this weekend, maybe next.

I think I put the battery under the fuel tank. Were you able to figure out some way of using longer servo arms to get "3D" throws, or do you plan on sport flying only? I think I mentioned in an earlier note that the servos are too close the fuse sides to allow for long arms. One guy suggested stacking one servo above the other, but since this was a raffle plane, I didn't go to that trouble.

Let me know how yours flies.

Greg

There's no way to get a lot of throw out of servos in the stock location.

I did put the battery over the tank, mounted the tank low to line up with the carb. I even tried using a large, sub c cell, battery for the extra weight and still needed a lot of nose weight to get it to balance.

I think what I may wind up doing: putting the throttle servo behind the tank to help bring some weight forward. This will allow me to put a servo in the forward bay to get more throw from one of them, maybe the rudder. Then I can open up one of the side servo locations to move in inward some to put a longer arm on for more throw also.

I'm also not a 3D flyer but I would like to have a plane capable so that I can one of the guys that do 3D to show me on my plane how it's done.

I picked up a heavy hub the other day for the Saito. I think I'll start with the mods on Fri when I have the morning off. Then maybe I can finish it up on Sun, if not then the following Fri when I'm off again.

It's been a few days, ok a couple of weeks, but I finally got it done.

I had to do some mods on it to help reduce the weight but I think they will all help out in the end. I moved the throttle servo forward, just behind the fuel tank. That allowed me to move the rudder servo forward in the servo tray. I had to cut some of the wood from one side to allow the servo to sit more toward the center of the plane. This allowed me to put in a longer arm for more throw. I had to redo the pull-pull wire but that wasn't a big deal.

All of this with the heavy hub and lock nut inside the spinner I got it to balance, juuuust forward of 3". I did have to get a wire cable for the throttle, that wire didn't like the bend needed for the servo to sit so close.

Here are a couple of pics of it all done. Using the old Mk1 Mod3 bathroom scale it comes in right around 6lbs. I start my shift tomorrow so I'll have to try and get it into the air on Sat.

OK, pics won't load for some reason... I'll put em on later.

I have purchased a paramount and was wondering 2 things:

1. Did you use standard ball bearing servos for all your contols?

2. Someone mentioned Stacking the sevos for more throws. How do you do that? or should I mount the elevator servo on the outside of the fuse?

I do want 3D capability out of this plane

I just used ball bearinv servos for mine. I'm not a 3D pilot and don't really wring out a plane. I haven't flown the Paramount yet, but it is finished and ready to go.

I did move the throttle servo; made a mount right behind the tank. It wasn't as easy as I thought, had to adjust for the wing.

I then put the rudder servo in the location left empty by the throttle servo. I had to shave some of the wood on one side to get it closer to the center. I also put a longer servo arm on so I needed it closer to center for it to have enough room. I used some spare ply to raise it a bit, don't remember what size it was.

Since I had the extra room I put a longer servo arm on for the elevator also. I used the Dubro heavy duty arms on all of the surfaces. Not for strength but for the longer throw they give.

I could have sworn I took photos of all the work I did but can't seem to find any. I'm recharging my camera now and will take some when it's done. I recently swapped everything over to a new pc so I may have lost them in the move. I have a digital camera so taking photos are cheap, no big deal.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Since I am planing on trying 3d I used high torque servos in mine. I strongly recommend that you modify the servo loaction as salty25 describes.

In my case I built a tray for the throttle servo close to wood piece in the middle of the openneing at the fuselage. I placed the elevator servo where the throttle was supposed to be. I used the gaps where the elevator and rudder servos had to be located to put in the center of it the rudder servo. You will have to raise the rudder servo to avoid overlaping of the pull/pull cables with the elevator's arm, also you will have to cut some wood to allow the cables to move freely.

alvagron,
How did you get yours to balance? I had to use a heavy hub and about 3 squares of lead, I think it was three, up front. That put the balance point center of the CG range.

I have the next three weeks off, so I'm hoping to maiden mine this Saturday. I have all the honey do's done so I should have the full day to myself.

I yet have to get the prop and spinner for it. It seems slightly tail heavy with an OS surpass 70 II in the nose installed as far ahead as possible. It will be rainy tomorrow [:@] [ernesto is coming our way] so I might be able to tell you by tomorrow night and hope to flight test in on Sunday if the wheater allows .

I don't remember what prop I put on, but I got the blue spinner as you can see in my pics.

I put on a Saito 72 and it came out tail heavy as well.

I have to work on my daughters car tomorrow so I won't get to maiden it yet. Hopefully I can to it on Sunday.

As much water as Ernesto is dumping I hope your field doesn't flood out.