In the process of putting one together with a OS91FX.
Should I go with the quad flap setup or it that a waste of
time and servos? Using a JR 622 and it is capable of the
required programing for the quad setup

Go for the quad flap. It adds a whole different dimension to the plane. Without them, its just another stick. The weight difference and the cost of two servos is not that bad. Standard servos work ok in this application.

I would go with the quad flaps. Like bentgear said it adds to the excitement. And you could always program full span ailerons if you want. On my US 60, I have quad flaps. I programmed full span ailerons in my radio. With a flick of a switch, I get lightning fast rolls and still retain airbrake (crow) function when I want it.

Yes Yes Yes on the Quad Flaps

Yes Yes Yes on standard servos (have (4) Hitec HS-425s on mine). I'm a little overkill but have Hitec HS-605s on rudder and elevator.

Yes Yes Yes OS FX 91 -- I have the Saito FA-100 on mine, UNLIMITED virtical.

There is only one downside to Quad flaps on this bird. If you fly this plane a lot you will get spoiled by the effortless landings and maybe stall another airplane out of habit. With the CROW activated you almost can't stall this airplane on landing. Stall occurs virtually at the same moment that forward movement ends and then it just drops on its nose rather than a wing.

Alas, I have to go back to flying school to learn how to land my World Models P-40 Warhawk. Two landings and two stalls later and I have to repair my home-made fixed landing gear because they pancaked forward.

ptgarcia
How did you program full span ailerons

YES! Just like Bentgear said.....

jf

It's a piece-of-cake but I had to burn up 2 p-mixes to do it. I am using a Futaba 8uafs with an 8-channel receiver and 7 servos (one dedicated to each of the 4 aileron/flap surfaces). Off the top of my head, I think I have my flaps plugged into channel 7 and 8. I just mixed ailerons to ch 7 on one mix and ailerons to ch 8 on another. If the flap travels in the opposite direction of the aileron, reverse the direction of the flap in the p-mix screen (making percentage shown negative versus positive or vice versa). I'm still learning how to use computers radios so if something sounds funny here please chime in. Hope this helps. See ya.

Forgot to add that the 91FX is a good choice. For some strange reason I settled on a MA 13 x 8 - 3 blade on mine. You will run out of fuel before you run out of vertical. Mount the servo's for rudder and elevator in the tail, a search will turn up several threads on this. Above all, go have fun.
Ed M.

I second the servos in the tail. I also needed to place my 1400mAh battery in the fuselage just behind the wing saddle to achieve the recommended balance with an O.S. FS 91 4-stroke up front. Good luck!

looking or suggestions on my u stik 40 from you 60 stik guys.
Cannot seem to get crow or beyond in programming with my 8103. what am i doing wrong here? have set it up with futaba 8 but lose flaps only function.
all help will be deeply appreciated.
Gary Smith

Check this link out from the Futaba 8U FAQ:

http://www.futaba-rc.com/faq/faq-8u-q177.html

-or- try this in conjunction with the programming instructions in your manual:

http://www.cma1193.com/todo.htm#UltraStick

I read everything here about the STIK. Even though I really think this ARF is ugly, it does have charm. And it's supposed to fly super. I got talked into buying the ARF last Saturday.

I started gluing and joining stuff together on it after we got back on Saturday. I now have completed that Ultra Stik .60 . It's balanced, programmed and ready to fly. The engine is a Saito 100 and the seven servos are Hitec 605's on the ele & rudder and 425BB's everywhere else. The plane weighs 6 lb 9 oz completely ready to fly minus fuel . On the Chipmunk that Saito was turning a 15x6 prop on heli fuel, putting out about 12 lbs of thrust at 9000 RPM. I am hoping that this thing flies as good as the numbers look. A plane this hideous better fly GREAT.

I put the elevator servo and the rudder servo waaay back on the fuselage. I'm glad I did. I still had to shove the battery back to get this thing to balance.

Thanks for the thread. Pics of my setup are at :

http://www.devino.org/mark/airplanepics/stik60.jpg

-Mark-

Cheech...your plane is looking good!

Do you fly off grass? If so, careful on the landings with the stock wheels...they're a little small and if they don't roll well, the main gear mount can crack and then you have an unpleasant repair job ahead. I upped mine to 3.5" and reinforced the mount block with epoxy and fiberglass.

This is one of the best looking sticks on the market and flies GREAT with the Saito FA-100 inspite of its good looks.

Cheech,
The plane looks great. It is raining in Southern Calif. I am going to start building my US 60 this weekend. Did you use a ball link to connect you push rod to your elevator, and did you support the fuselage where you placed the servos?

So it seems I may not be well served by the stock wheels. I have heard they're too small. I may want a pair of bigger ones anyway if for nothing else than to gain a little clearance for my 15" prop.

And yes, rcpilot44, my elevator linkage is ball linkes at both ends . It is a very slop free, easy moving setup. I hardened the servo mount areas on the back with lite ply. Under the rudder servo I did a full little servo tray, covered then epoxied externally to the fuselage. On the elevator I put some lite ply on the INSIDE, behind the servo screws. It's a solid setup.

Again, I am REALLY REALLY glad I mounted the servos in the back. Even with those two servo's and all the hardware I STILL had to shove my battery way back in the radio compartment just to get close to balancing. It's a nose heavy plane. With the 100 this plane would need lotsa tail weight to come out close. I may still add an ounce to the back. To those that are actually FLYING your STIKs, where are you CG'd? I'm at about 4" now.

I guess I'll put a little fiberglass on the landing gear block also. I gussetted it in with some additional balsa tri stock, but the glass wouldn't hurt.

I can't remember what the manual says the C.G. range is, but I balanced mine right in between the two. I think I'm going to move it back 1/4" or so.

This is highly recommended. The extra triangle stock you mentioned does not really speak to the real weakness of this landing gear block. The block is mile hardwood with a very fragile grain structure. A moderate landing that wouldn't even bend your aluminum gear would still be hard enough to break this block along the wood grain and take out the bottom of your fuselage. The same size block made out of multi-ply plywood would have been a better choice.

After my moderate landing tore out the bottom of the fuselage I CA'd it back in place as well as I could. I then epoxied the hell out of it and layered carbon fiber cloth inside and out. It looks like hell but it hasn't and will not break again there, no matter how hard I land.

Yeah, I agree with hilleja about glassing the landing gear block. When I built mine I laid a couple layers of 1/2 oz. cloth over the landing gear block on the bottom inside of the radio compartment and wrapped it up the sides about 1/2-3/4 of the way. Turned out great and have had no problems so far (knock on wood). I also wrapped a layer around the wing bolt down block and epoxied the hell out of that. It was split when I got it. Again, no problems there. Take it easy!

I am building a U Stick 60 right now too and thanks to all the great threads I have already reinforced the landing gear block, firewall and wing hold down. I was wondering if any of you are running an after market tail wheel? To me the stock one seems a little lacking. I'm running a .77 MVVS 2-stroke with a full length tuned pipe so I don't think I will have balance issues. But I was still wondering can I get away with running standard servos in the wings? I'm planning to use the high torque variety for the elevator and rudder but I just assume not run snazzy servos in the wings if it's unnecessary.


JW

I used a Northern Model Products tailwheel from Central Hobbies. Good and strong and no stress on the rudder, though a bit expensive. I think you're probably okay with the standard servos if you're doing the quad flap setup.

I have a full season under my belt with this airplane and have had no servo related problems with it.

Elevator: Hitec HS-605
Rudder: Hitec HS-605
Throttle: Hitec HS-422
Airlons: (2) Hitech HS-425s

Battery -- generic NIMH 1500mah, with Hitec switch.

I have also had no problems with the standard tail wheel that came with the package.

DO: pin CA hinges (all I did was use a trimmed common pin and a drop of CA for each hinge half)
DO: re-enforce main landing gear block (you need to strengthen the block itself, not just where it is mounted to the fuselage)
DO: adjust CG to specs.
DO: setup QUAD flaps -- this plane is king with CROW

I am running four Hitec 425BB's in the wing . These are nothin' special servos in the 42 oz/inch range. They are ball bearing, but basically they're cheap servos. But that translates to 80 oz or more per side and I am SURE that's plenty . My rudder and elevator are 605's. Nothing special again, but 70 oz of torque.

I DID glass up the landing gear block and the wing bolt block last night. Everybody says it's a must. I'm sre I'll be glad that I did. Thanks.

-Cheech

I put a Sullivan tail wheel on mine, the one with the spring that goes from the rudder to the wheel (I think its Sullivan), and used the stock wheel. I didn't like the stock tail wheel setup.

For servos I used:

Rudder: Hitec 605 with pull-pull
Elevator: Hitec 605
Ailerons & Flaps: JR 537
Throttle: Futaba 148

My tail feathers. I replaced that adjustable arm on the elevator. It was used during setup but I now have a a composite Hitec arm.