Trib,
Doesn't look like the right paint. That one says for plastics. I guess the Testers would be OK. I would buy a small can, and try it on the tail first. That way, if you don't like it, at worst you can pay about $6 and have Horizon ship another. But honestly, probably any flat clear will be fine.

thanks a lot

Here is some other stuff that I have acces to: http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...rod_id=TES1960

For a 1/6 scale pilot, fully articulated, is 12" tall the right size?

Here's what I'm thinking of... http://www.franktiano.com/scaleproductFrameset.htm\
I'm going to modify the cockpit so that he can sit inside. I'll have a dash board, joystick, throtle quadrant and all the instruments inside the cockpit. I'm going to have to dig it out and put balsa sidings to accomodate this pilot, of course. I will be posting pictures of my progress.

Is this reasonable?

Never mind, I found that lusterkote flat clear. Thanks a lot

Trib,
Just watch the weight on that cockpit. It is behind the CG, and for every ounce of cockpit weight, you will need another ounce or two of ballast. So the added weight is double or trible the weight of your mod. Something to consider for the electric version.

thanks. I was thinking about that too.

Any flight reports?

I have noticed that the dummy radial is built into a large plastic disc thing. Do I have to cut dummy out with a knife or do I leave it alone? Heres a picture: http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...AN4234-100.jpg

review, http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=810
huge thread, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#4794677

Cut out the spaces between the cylinders, but leave the outside ring intact.

Outside ring? conecting the end of the cylinders together right?

Trib,
Yes. When finished it should look like a bike tire with 9 fat spokes. Cut from cylinder to cylinder, but only go as high as the cowl will cover. No need to cut more of the dummy engine than necessary.

I am building a sopwith and was wondering does the cowl fit flush up next to the fuse or over the fuse. my cowl want to fit flush but there is covering missing on top of the fuse just in front of the cockpit hatch

Can you post a pic? I had a little wood exposed, so I painted it with Tamiya Flat Aluminum. Near perfect match.

After cutting the bottom of the cowl out to make clearance for the exaust I was able to flex the cowl over the fuse. It's a tight fit but it goes over the fuse and not flush up to it.
I'll try and get some pics of her laters

kerwin, my first cowl did not fit over the fuse at all. The second body and cowl was a nice fit. I wonder if you are having the same problem? If so, don't struggle with the cowl, call Horizon for a replacement. I think the early kits may have had a cowl too small. Not sure, but worth checking.

I was just looking for someone that had some experience with the Hanger 9 Sopwith. I have had mine for probably a year. I've been flying R/C for almost 30 years and of the dozens and dozens of planes I have owned, I have never had one that I couldn't fly. That is until I got the Sopwith. Today I crashed mine for the fourth and final time. It's repairable, but I just don't ever want to see it again. It's a beautiful plane and was one of my favorites to "LOOK AT". Every time I have tried to fly it, It jumps off the ground and tip stalls to the right. The CG is right where the factory says it should be. I even made it a little nose heavy. I have an OS 61 2cy for power. I have a Futaba 9C radio and Futaba heavy duty BB servos. The radio range checks fine and the pack cycles to its rated MAH. I am totally puzzled. If there is anyone out there that wants to comiserate with me or who has some info on this problem, drop me a line.

ART SILVER
[email protected]

Art,

Sorry to hear about the problems you've been having. I had one of these and it flew beautifully with no tendency to tip stall at all. "Leaping" off the ground might be an indication of an incidence problem with one of the wings. I know the feeling about not wanting to ever see it again. I've had one or two planes like that myself. Don't give up, you'll figure it out.

Art,
Sounds like the wings are twisted. The interplane struts, if placed backwards front-to-back, can cause the wings to "wash-in." So normally you want a little wing "wash-out" to avoid tip stall. Wash-in can cause tip stall. Sounds like your problem. Eyeball the TE of both the upper and lower wing. Spend some money on a good incidence checker, and examine the angle of both wings inboard and outboard and compare it to the incidence of the horizontal. Check the length of the interplane struts to make sure they are correct. I think I posted the correct lengths earlier in this thread.

I have heard other reports from folks that this plane doesn't fly right. Mine flys great with no tip stall. CG is right on the 4" mark. However, when I first put the plane together, the wing had "wash in" because I followed the manual on the placement of the interplane struts. The manual is wrong/confusing, and the service bulletin on the Hangar 9 site is BACKWARDS too!!

This plane looks awesome in the air, and is a gentle flyer with the CG in the right place. It is very touchy to land though, but it is worth it. Double check your wings again, and you might find some twist.
Good luck!

hey guys, am looking to build one of these with Saito 90 radial, anyone here have some experiences/advice to share on this combo? I never own a radial before but have few Saitos single cyl

Are the flying wires required for flying this plane? I purchased one of these at a swap meet but it didnt come with the wing flying wires. I have read several threads on this plane but have not seen anything about whether the flying wires are functional or just for looks. I am sure adding wire will strengthen the structure but are they really required to fly it?
Thanks, Denny

Denny, I noticed you have not had a reply to your request yet so I will give you the manual answer - wing flying wires are optional but the tail flying wires are required - this probably why there were no wing flying wires with your model - the wing flying wired are available fron Horizon if you no need them and they do add realism to the model.
John

Thanks for the reply John. Mine did come with the wires on the tail but not the wings. I do like the looks of the flying wires, an important detail to me. I plan on doing the same thing I did with my big P-6E Hawk and use some black elastic to simulate teh wires. They are much easier to install and remove when assembling or disassembling the plane at the field.
Denny