HANGER 9 SOPWITH CAMEL
#126

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From: Lumberton,
NC
I thought about the same thing when I finished mine a couple of months ago. But if you notice the throw differential, you have more throw on one ail. down than up. The opposite ail. makes up the difference when you roll it. Trust me, I have a saito .82 on mine and it is plenty of power and the roll rate is good. If you are looking at 3d rates not happening. But it actually has a scale roll when you take it nose up and start the roll. love this little biplane, just tricky on landings. i had to add so much nose weight to balance it out that if you don't have enough up elevator once you touch down to keep the tail on the ground it will nose over. All it takes is a few nose overs and you figure it out.
LeeLee
LeeLee
#127
Thanks for info - Think I will try it before making any mods to ailerons. Mine balanced with couple more ounces of lead squeezed into the wieght box. BL46 electric and two 3700 4s packs in parallel straped to fuel tank tray.
My original wing set had a sever warp in one wing - Horizon sent new lower set which had restricted aileron movement as noted.
My original wing set had a sever warp in one wing - Horizon sent new lower set which had restricted aileron movement as noted.
#128
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From: Centreville,
VA
Let us know how you like the BL 46 performance. Thanks for the balance info too.
If you want to use the original warped wing, you may try to unwarp it with an iron set on low. (use a nice cotton under shirt over the iron to avoid scratches, or buy a monokote iron with the little "sock" on it). I have warped wings to put in wash out this way. Very easy.
There was a post earlier that said the good balance point is when the nose is about 5 deg down when balanced on the cg ref in the manual.
If you want to use the original warped wing, you may try to unwarp it with an iron set on low. (use a nice cotton under shirt over the iron to avoid scratches, or buy a monokote iron with the little "sock" on it). I have warped wings to put in wash out this way. Very easy.
There was a post earlier that said the good balance point is when the nose is about 5 deg down when balanced on the cg ref in the manual.
#129

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From: Newnan,
GA
Here's a video that I did of my H9 Sopwith Camel:
[link=http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=7c9e04fc3c89d0ede88c&page=1 &viewtype=&category=mr]http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=7c9e04fc3c89d0ede88c&page=1 &viewtype=&category=mr[/link]
I'm using an OS-70 4 stroke with a zinger 14x5 prop. Flys very scale, and I fly it mostly on 1/2 throttle or less. I get five 10 minute flights per tank full. She flys great, but the landing, and takeoff can be a bit tricky. You must keep the wings level on both landings, and takeoff's.
[link=http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=7c9e04fc3c89d0ede88c&page=1 &viewtype=&category=mr]http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=7c9e04fc3c89d0ede88c&page=1 &viewtype=&category=mr[/link]
I'm using an OS-70 4 stroke with a zinger 14x5 prop. Flys very scale, and I fly it mostly on 1/2 throttle or less. I get five 10 minute flights per tank full. She flys great, but the landing, and takeoff can be a bit tricky. You must keep the wings level on both landings, and takeoff's.
#132
Corsair 29,
Nice video! I was very interested in viewing this onse, especially since it is powered by a .70 4-stroke. I put a .90 4C in mine and have not had the chance to maiden her yet. I put a .70 4C in my GP DR1 and she flew ok, but if there was any wind...well you get the picture. There was just not enough reserve power for me with this setup. I guess I can also attribute that to the one extra wing as well. I am chomping at the bit to get the Camel up. Kinda stuck on the ever ending task of detailing. Thanks again for the video.
Nice video! I was very interested in viewing this onse, especially since it is powered by a .70 4-stroke. I put a .90 4C in mine and have not had the chance to maiden her yet. I put a .70 4C in my GP DR1 and she flew ok, but if there was any wind...well you get the picture. There was just not enough reserve power for me with this setup. I guess I can also attribute that to the one extra wing as well. I am chomping at the bit to get the Camel up. Kinda stuck on the ever ending task of detailing. Thanks again for the video.
#133
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From: Centreville,
VA
ivancant,
What kind of detailing are you adding? I am making the ARF look like fabric covering by applying a dull cote (flat clear). I also am painting all the white nylon fixtures a flat earth to look like wood or leather. I am using the pointed spinner from the BL 46, but painting it flat red (Mac used a red pointed spinner). I am also going to put a white silk scarf around Mac's neck.
What kind of detailing are you adding? I am making the ARF look like fabric covering by applying a dull cote (flat clear). I also am painting all the white nylon fixtures a flat earth to look like wood or leather. I am using the pointed spinner from the BL 46, but painting it flat red (Mac used a red pointed spinner). I am also going to put a white silk scarf around Mac's neck.
#134
tclaridge,
I am simply applying dullcoat from Nelson hobbies. My first DR1 (Josef Jacobs) was recovered in black coverite fabric. My second is covered in red & white monocote (Raben) and sprayed with dullcote. Looks really cool but three wings of scallops was a pain. I know a lot of scale folks look down on modification of arfs, but with my work, I do an extensive amount of travel, so arfs are for me now. I was also successful with the spraying with my first Modeltech SE5a. I still struggle with time on those as well. Right now, I have a KMP B-25, GP Hawk P-6 and a Balsa USA Eindecker on the bench(es). Anyway, back to the Camel...I replaced the pilot with a Aces of Iron (scarf included). I did not use Hanger 9's rigging wires. I replaced tham all with elastic cord. I know some folks may say that this is not strong enough, but my PT-17 uses this cord and the tensile strength, although not as good as cable, will suffice for the job. Remember, these planes are not 3D. The guns were replaced with Willams Bros. I put a RAM WWI sound module underneath the top removable deck with the speaker in the lower fuselage. I have installed scale control horns with the elastic cord on all of the control surfaces (with the exception of underwing). So, nothing really spectacular, but just a few upgrades to satisfy myself. With all of this, I still have to redo the balance of the plane, but the B-25 working bomb-bay and bomb release mechanism has taken up a lot of my free time over the holidays. Hope this helps?
Brent
I am simply applying dullcoat from Nelson hobbies. My first DR1 (Josef Jacobs) was recovered in black coverite fabric. My second is covered in red & white monocote (Raben) and sprayed with dullcote. Looks really cool but three wings of scallops was a pain. I know a lot of scale folks look down on modification of arfs, but with my work, I do an extensive amount of travel, so arfs are for me now. I was also successful with the spraying with my first Modeltech SE5a. I still struggle with time on those as well. Right now, I have a KMP B-25, GP Hawk P-6 and a Balsa USA Eindecker on the bench(es). Anyway, back to the Camel...I replaced the pilot with a Aces of Iron (scarf included). I did not use Hanger 9's rigging wires. I replaced tham all with elastic cord. I know some folks may say that this is not strong enough, but my PT-17 uses this cord and the tensile strength, although not as good as cable, will suffice for the job. Remember, these planes are not 3D. The guns were replaced with Willams Bros. I put a RAM WWI sound module underneath the top removable deck with the speaker in the lower fuselage. I have installed scale control horns with the elastic cord on all of the control surfaces (with the exception of underwing). So, nothing really spectacular, but just a few upgrades to satisfy myself. With all of this, I still have to redo the balance of the plane, but the B-25 working bomb-bay and bomb release mechanism has taken up a lot of my free time over the holidays. Hope this helps?
Brent
#135
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From: Centreville,
VA
Brent,
Very helpful. You have nice project goings. I could not find a WWI Aces of Iron for allies at 1/6 scale. Which one did you use?
--Tony
Very helpful. You have nice project goings. I could not find a WWI Aces of Iron for allies at 1/6 scale. Which one did you use?
--Tony
#137
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From: Saunderstown,
RI
I'm picking mine up this weekend from my LHS. I have a Magnum 91 that will be used. I'll need to remember to pick up a few wood props.
This plane looks very nice with the exception of the goofy eye pilot figure. I have a civilian pilot from a GP Super Stearman. If it fits ... I'll try to modify it to look like a military pilot. Maybe some scale panel lines on the cowl.
From all that I've read ... this plane fly's very sport like. I'm looking forward to getting this built and in the air.
Ross 3951
This plane looks very nice with the exception of the goofy eye pilot figure. I have a civilian pilot from a GP Super Stearman. If it fits ... I'll try to modify it to look like a military pilot. Maybe some scale panel lines on the cowl.
From all that I've read ... this plane fly's very sport like. I'm looking forward to getting this built and in the air.
Ross 3951
#138

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From: Lumberton,
NC
Just a little info on the wood prop, from experience use a fiberglass prop or plastic prop for a while until you get the feel of the plane and get it properly balances. Landing's are tricky with this plane and you will go through a lot of wood props until you get use to landing. I have had mine since they first came out and still nose it over sometimes. It is so short you have to add a lot of nose weight to balance it out, and when it touches down you need to have a lot of up elevator to keep the tail skid planted. The wood prop looks nice on it but to save you a little $ start out with some fiber props until you get the feel of landing it.
LeeLee
LeeLee
#139
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From: Los Angeles, CA,
You could use the 1/5 scale WW1 pilot, He would be a little large but not very noticable. The attached picture shows a 1/5 scale Aces of Iron WW2 pilot next to a 1/6 sclae GI Joe:
#140
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From: Saunderstown,
RI
Ok. It took a little bit to finish this one. Too much work and as soon as I get home my 4 year old is on me like a duck on a June bug.
Thanks for the info re: pilots and props. I'll use an APC prop that I have.
I don't think that I will spend too much time customizing this plane. I did a little paint work but that's about it. I may change my mind after a few flights. It is a nice looking plane and from the posts and vids looks like it fly's good too. It may be above freezing Saturday so I'm hoping to see for myself.
Does any one use hi and low rates? I currently have the manual's rates set as hi and reduced the rates 25 - 30 % for low. Am I asking for trouble on this one?
Rich
Thanks for the info re: pilots and props. I'll use an APC prop that I have.
I don't think that I will spend too much time customizing this plane. I did a little paint work but that's about it. I may change my mind after a few flights. It is a nice looking plane and from the posts and vids looks like it fly's good too. It may be above freezing Saturday so I'm hoping to see for myself.
Does any one use hi and low rates? I currently have the manual's rates set as hi and reduced the rates 25 - 30 % for low. Am I asking for trouble on this one?
Rich
#142
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From: Saunderstown,
RI
Thanks MinnFlyer.
My CG stand will not work with the configuration of this plane. I set up a fairly accurate balance using two 1" x 24" wood dowels clamped to a heavy table and an 8" length of 3/8" dowel. The wing sits on the small dowel on the recommended CG. The small dowel sits across the top of the two 1"dowels. The whole plane hangs out over the end of the table and will float and balance. On the cowl I place a small leveling device and balance as needed. I'll post photos later this morning. Picked up this trick from RCU.
I'm on the nose heavy side. Used all the lead that was provided plus some glued in the cowl. I'll guess that extra weight is about as heavy as a double A battery. One day I'll get an accurate scale.
I'd rather be retentive now and not have to repair the plane this afternoon. I have a few WWII warbirds that I've tweaked enough to keep em from nosing over on a grass runway. It's habit now.
Any one check this plane with an incidence gauge? The top wing looked parallel to the 1" dowels on my balance stand and it looks like the top of the cowl is parallel to the bottom of the top wing.
Rich
My CG stand will not work with the configuration of this plane. I set up a fairly accurate balance using two 1" x 24" wood dowels clamped to a heavy table and an 8" length of 3/8" dowel. The wing sits on the small dowel on the recommended CG. The small dowel sits across the top of the two 1"dowels. The whole plane hangs out over the end of the table and will float and balance. On the cowl I place a small leveling device and balance as needed. I'll post photos later this morning. Picked up this trick from RCU.
I'm on the nose heavy side. Used all the lead that was provided plus some glued in the cowl. I'll guess that extra weight is about as heavy as a double A battery. One day I'll get an accurate scale.
I'd rather be retentive now and not have to repair the plane this afternoon. I have a few WWII warbirds that I've tweaked enough to keep em from nosing over on a grass runway. It's habit now.
Any one check this plane with an incidence gauge? The top wing looked parallel to the 1" dowels on my balance stand and it looks like the top of the cowl is parallel to the bottom of the top wing.
Rich
#143
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From: Centreville,
VA
Ross,
Nice pics. Would like to hear your pilot's report when you get it in the air. I have not built mine yet, but fly a good replica on G3, and I haven't had a need for dual rates. I would also be curious if any other pilot's have used dual rates or expo.
What is your motor/prop set up. You said it balances, and you just used the stock ballast, and a little weight in the cowl. I would love to hear your total weight since you achieved CG with the stock ballast. Good job!
Nice pics. Would like to hear your pilot's report when you get it in the air. I have not built mine yet, but fly a good replica on G3, and I haven't had a need for dual rates. I would also be curious if any other pilot's have used dual rates or expo.
What is your motor/prop set up. You said it balances, and you just used the stock ballast, and a little weight in the cowl. I would love to hear your total weight since you achieved CG with the stock ballast. Good job!
#145
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From: Saunderstown,
RI
Hi tclaridge,
Hope I can get out today but the honey do list just got bigger.
I'm running a Magnum 91 4c on 15% nitro.
From what I have read this is more than adequate.
Spinning a 14 / 6 APC prop.
All servos are Futaba 3010's. Overkill? ... but I had them so I used them.
I have a big 2500 / 4.8v stuffed up front on the fire wall on one side of the fuel tank. A counter balance and the cylinder head keep lateral balance.
All control surfaces are set to recommended throws for high rate.
25% - 30% less for low rate.
I have been using 40% expo on all other planes and am comfortable with this so it's programmed in.
I have no clue what the dry weight is. I can get on the scale 15 times and get 15 different readings.
The added weight I used in the cowl is carbide I've hade from back in my tool building days. The stuff is hard and heavy. I do have a little lead flashing in my field box just in case.
Rich
Hope I can get out today but the honey do list just got bigger.
I'm running a Magnum 91 4c on 15% nitro.
From what I have read this is more than adequate.
Spinning a 14 / 6 APC prop.
All servos are Futaba 3010's. Overkill? ... but I had them so I used them.
I have a big 2500 / 4.8v stuffed up front on the fire wall on one side of the fuel tank. A counter balance and the cylinder head keep lateral balance.
All control surfaces are set to recommended throws for high rate.
25% - 30% less for low rate.
I have been using 40% expo on all other planes and am comfortable with this so it's programmed in.
I have no clue what the dry weight is. I can get on the scale 15 times and get 15 different readings.
The added weight I used in the cowl is carbide I've hade from back in my tool building days. The stuff is hard and heavy. I do have a little lead flashing in my field box just in case.
Rich
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From: Centreville,
VA
Rich,
Thanks for the info. Very helpful. Good luck on first flight. I do not have experience with expo, but folks seem to love it. Thanks for the reference! I have programmed my new radio to 25%, but I may up it per your reco.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful. Good luck on first flight. I do not have experience with expo, but folks seem to love it. Thanks for the reference! I have programmed my new radio to 25%, but I may up it per your reco.
#147
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Ross, I would SERIOUSLY re-think the lead weights inside the cowl.
That cowl is made of thin fiberglass, and it's only held on with a few screws. I promise you that the combination of the vibrations of the engine, and the extra weight up front will eat large holes in the cowl where the bolts are - and the cowl will pop loose in no time at all.
Screw the weights to the engine mount, or the firewall, but don't leave them in the cowl.
That cowl is made of thin fiberglass, and it's only held on with a few screws. I promise you that the combination of the vibrations of the engine, and the extra weight up front will eat large holes in the cowl where the bolts are - and the cowl will pop loose in no time at all.
Screw the weights to the engine mount, or the firewall, but don't leave them in the cowl.
#148
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From: Centreville,
VA
I have decided to post my G3 models of the H9 Camel for folks if they would like them. It has been a big help to me getting use to the touchy landings and take offs. The original model requires Add-ons Vol 2. The color scheme for the H9 Camel was downloaded from the Knife Edge site. I then modified the model to be the size, weight, and characteristics of the H9 Camel.
I made two models, one for gas, and one for the BL 46 electric. The electric uses a sound file to make it sound like gas because I have a sound sim in mine. You may change the motor/battery/sound combinations easily to match your setup.
Please let me know if you use it, if it is close to your flight experience.
Happy Landings!
PS You must change the file extensions to "G3X" before importing into G3.
I made two models, one for gas, and one for the BL 46 electric. The electric uses a sound file to make it sound like gas because I have a sound sim in mine. You may change the motor/battery/sound combinations easily to match your setup.
Please let me know if you use it, if it is close to your flight experience.
Happy Landings!
PS You must change the file extensions to "G3X" before importing into G3.
#149
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From: Saunderstown,
RI
Hi MinnFlyer,
That was exactly what I did this morning. In my haste to get this plane in the air I took a stupid short cut ... it is now corrected.
Went to the field and put the Camel up for a maiden. Handles like a Cub on the ground and in the air. Add a little breeze and I was reminded of my long forgotten, flat bottom wing training planes. A little rudder in turns goes a long way in keeping this plane flying smooth. I had one nose over on landing but no damage.
It does take a little re training to fly this plane. The Camel will be the only plane I take to the field for a while. Once I get over the "new plane syndrome" and find the sweet spot with the elevator on landings I think it will end up being one of my favorites.
A Magnum .91 is way too much power but nice to have if you need it. Most of the time I was flying a little under 1/2 throttle. Low and slow over the runway looks real nice.
Rich
That was exactly what I did this morning. In my haste to get this plane in the air I took a stupid short cut ... it is now corrected.
Went to the field and put the Camel up for a maiden. Handles like a Cub on the ground and in the air. Add a little breeze and I was reminded of my long forgotten, flat bottom wing training planes. A little rudder in turns goes a long way in keeping this plane flying smooth. I had one nose over on landing but no damage.
It does take a little re training to fly this plane. The Camel will be the only plane I take to the field for a while. Once I get over the "new plane syndrome" and find the sweet spot with the elevator on landings I think it will end up being one of my favorites.
A Magnum .91 is way too much power but nice to have if you need it. Most of the time I was flying a little under 1/2 throttle. Low and slow over the runway looks real nice.
Rich
#150
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From: Port Arthur, TX
any body up for some scale dogfights!!? I've finished my Great Planes Fokker DR1!! I've read this thread and I'm SOLD!! I'm on the prowl for one of these to add to my fleet! Here's a picture of my DR1. Also here's a picture of a Camel I found on the net that I think I'm gonna recover mine to look like! What do ya'll think?


