Tsutomu Mabuchi, No extra strength is needed. Just install as it is.

Here is my review. It shows G-20 installation

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=810]Sopwith Camel Review[/link]

MinnFlyer,
OK, thank you. I bought G20ei for my Camel after reading your review.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

My camel wil be at LHS tomorrow also g20 motor This is my first gas motor Must I make any mods to feul tank + lines ? or do I use standard as is
Thanks

You will have to buy fuel line and a new stopper for the tank that is made for Gasoline.

Gas will eat fuel line and tank stoppers that are made for glow fuel

Got my Camel + g20 yesterday very impressed wil start assembley tomorrow Do I need to ad more down thrust to motor or is the factory settings correct. Im not sure on witch prop to start was thinkin wood but maybe I must start of with 16x4w apc Any sugestions
Thanks

I tried several props and found the APC 16 x x4w to be the best with the G-20

And I don't think a little more down thrust would hurt

what kind of effect would adding down thrust have and in your opinion would you change from factory when using a small gas?

Adding down thrust might decrease the tendency to climb like a home-sick angel.

And - Change what from factory?

Hey Minn, got mine today because of your review. I am buying a new engine for this and want to know if the G20 is overkill. Would I be better off with an 82 fs, Thanks

I think the G-20 is definitely overkill in the power department, but not in the weight department.

An 82 will be more than enough power, just be prepared to add a lot of lead to the nose.

I made 20mm stand-off to get instructed length of 140mm from the firewall to the drive washer.
But it looks like I still need to scrape the firewall a bit not to intefere the muffler.
20mm is a bit thicker than 3/4"(19mm). Did you scrape some of the firewall or is your length longer
than instructed 140mm(5 1/2")?

Tsutomu Mabuchi

I honestly don't know, and unfortunately my Camel got totaled thei week, so I couldn't even measure it if I wanted to

I'm sorry for the crash. I will add 1/8"-1/4" to my stand-off, I don't like scraping
the firewall which may weaken the firewall and such small change would not hurt
the outline of the nose at all. Thank you.
By the way, what caused your Camel got totaled?

Tsutomu Mabuchi

I also am ready to fly mine but have airleron trouble. Both wings I only get maybe 1/2" up travel even with massive servo arm adjustments. I can't evene muscle them up much more by hand..........don't think i need mnore but. they are limited travel. anyone have this?

My dad was flying it on a windy day and on take off the wind got it and flipped it over.

roofer...................i put the saito 3 cylinder radial into the camel. i used a ringed muffler and it fit perfect. i was dissapointed with the power out of the engine. had to fly at full throttle. engine may have been overheatng. may have to open cowel some. wish that all the comments about ground handling had been made before i bought it. as usual early reports are allways overly optomistic

I also am ready to fly mine but have airleron trouble. Both wings I only get maybe 1/2" up travel even with massive servo arm adjustments. I can't evene muscle them up much more by hand..........don't think i need mnore but. they are limited travel. anyone have this?

Yup, but it's not a problem

I managed to install G20 with 1" stand-off wood.
I didn't like, but I had to cut out a lot of the center of the dummy engine
which ruined the dummy push rods, otherwise I had difficulty in installing
the cowl because of protrusion of the velocity stack and the muffler.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

Well i made the 1st flight on mine last nite, wow, she was really touchy. Almost lost it on takeoff and landing with a bounce, i can see she takes come getting used to. I have a Saito .80 and that way overkill on power.

My building is almost done, radio installation and rigging the wings are left.
I cut the ailerons and hinged them with PP hinge. I could not stand the tight
movement of them due to the covering method which would give much load
to the servos.
What I do not like next is the stock linkage of the tail. They are also too tight.
Servos would be strong enough to be able to move them, but I think they would
consume much current also.
I plan to replace them with other suitable linkage for smoother movement, although
it seems to be difficult to do. Only replacement the piano wire with other materials
may be easier. I am looking for a best lod which has less friction.
Have you guys used stock linkage as it was?

Tsutomu Mabuchi

My Bad. The problem of tight push rods were solved. It was simple.
I bent the push rods a bit to fit the tubes then they became very smooth.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

Finished the building. I was impressed with this ARF's very high quality for the price.
The pre-made rigging wire, fiberglass cowl and upper fuselage pan, shock absorbed
gear, pre-installed linkage rod tube and receiver antenna tube are precise and solid.
Only one what I want H9 to change is aileron installation. The original hinging is very
hard to bend upward. I cut and reinstalled them with PP hinge.
It needed no weight in the nose.

Tsutomu Mabuchi

Tsutomu Mabuchi - your plane looks great dit you maiden it? how does it fly I am stil batling to make time to start building mine[:@] Maybe next month wil be better for me also am putting in a g20 what battery are you using for motor and ow long does it lat on a charge
Happy flyin
roofer

roofer,

I have not flown my Camel yet. I wish to make it fly soon, but may be some day in September.
I replaced the original Zenoah ignition to CH since I heard Zenoa ignition eats much current.
I use a 1500mA Nicd battery for CH ignition. I expect more than 1 hour endurerence at least.
However, Zenoah says their ignition is very reliable and emits very little noise although it eats
more current than others. So Zenoah ignition is worth trying to use I think now.

Tsutomu Mabuchi