ultra stick 60 advice needed
#76
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From: , NJ
Thanks for the pic. Did you bury the batterys back in the fuse, or just put them in the back of the radio compartment? If you buried them, did you cut a hatch, and if so can you send a picture.
ORIGINAL: countryshooter
I mounted my servos in the back cause I need the weight back there + I put in 2 batteries 2700 for the receiver and 4500 for the zenoah g20 engine. I put the batteries as far back as I could and CG came out just right.
I mounted my servos in the back cause I need the weight back there + I put in 2 batteries 2700 for the receiver and 4500 for the zenoah g20 engine. I put the batteries as far back as I could and CG came out just right.
#77
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What I did is I taped the batteries to a dowel and gently went as far back as I could and once I got the CG where I wanted it I taped it down so it couldnt move so in the future if I ever have to take them out I just grab the dowel so I didnt have to make a hatch. On each of the servos I reinforced the mounts on the inside so they would stick out.
#79
Here is a picture of my US with the servos in the rear ,battery under the wing hold down bolts ,an OS 91 Surpass and no lead in the tail. Also notice the additional rudder made from a US120 Aileron. Gave more slow speed rudder but with so much coupling it didn't help Knife Edge so it it gone now. I just got a set of floats to build for it to try this spring.
#80
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From: Pitkin,
LA
I left my servos in the stock location. I personally thought it was easier and better looking to just cut a hatch in the tail for the battery, so that's what I did. The plane balances perfectly fine like that.
#81
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From: , NJ
angrycookieman,
Any chance you can post a picture of the hatch placement? Is it removable, or did you just cut a hole and cover over it? I'm trying to collect all my ideas before I go off half cocked and start cutting up my fusalage.
At first I was leaning toward moving the battery all the way back if that is all it would take to balance, but then Ernie got me interested in the pull-pull rudder.
Like I said, I want to be sure of what I'm doing before I pick up the X-Acto...
Thanks,
Dave
Any chance you can post a picture of the hatch placement? Is it removable, or did you just cut a hole and cover over it? I'm trying to collect all my ideas before I go off half cocked and start cutting up my fusalage.
At first I was leaning toward moving the battery all the way back if that is all it would take to balance, but then Ernie got me interested in the pull-pull rudder.
Like I said, I want to be sure of what I'm doing before I pick up the X-Acto...
Thanks,
Dave
#83

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From: Ellicott City,
MD
Chalk me up as another "aft servo mounter".. I had also hoped not to cut the fuse up, but after dry fitting everything I quickly came to the conclusion that this plane wasn't going to balance easily without putting those servos in the back.. Mine balanced per the book with both rudder/elev servos in the back, rec battery placed behind servo tray under where the wing bolts are, engine (tower 75) about 1/2 inch back from the books numbers, as well as 1.5 -2.00oz wt in the tail!!
Anyway, none of it was that difficult..
thanks cobra!
Anyway, none of it was that difficult..
thanks cobra!
#84
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From: Pitkin,
LA
I can get pics later for you but basically, I just took an exacto and made very fine cuts on the bottom of the fuse until I got it cut loose. I mounted a blind nut in it and got a nylon screw with the finger knurling on it to put in it if I ever need to take it off. I then put foam behind the pushrod tubes, inserted the battery, and foamed the rest of it up. (I also put braces around the hatch for strength) Then I just taped the seams with clear tape, I will cover over it later, or make a latch system for it. Personally, it's easier than worrying about making the servo mounts right.
#85

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I have an Ultra Stick 60 powered by an SK 90. I picked it up literally before the previous owner placed it in the trash. A buddy rebuilt it with lite ply doublers on the outside. Even with an OS .61SF, my original engine until I got the SK, it was nose heavy.
There is a balance point in the manual, 4 1/2", as I recall, but check to be sure. This CG is not tail heavy or sensitive in the least. Build the plane except for the rudder & elevator servos and check the CG. If it is forward of this point, rubber band one servo in the rear and check. I ended up with both servos in the rear with the rudder on top using pull-pull. You cut the hole and put some scrap ply underneath. It's easy, it works like a champ. I have net heard of anyone having a rear mounted servo come out. You will need a couple of 12" extensions.
Don't worry about oil on the servo. I have been using external servos for years and have yet to have a problem.
I know the sides are blue. We didn't have any transparent yellow and this was a trash can plane. But, even at slightly over 8 1/2 lbs it still flies great.
There is a balance point in the manual, 4 1/2", as I recall, but check to be sure. This CG is not tail heavy or sensitive in the least. Build the plane except for the rudder & elevator servos and check the CG. If it is forward of this point, rubber band one servo in the rear and check. I ended up with both servos in the rear with the rudder on top using pull-pull. You cut the hole and put some scrap ply underneath. It's easy, it works like a champ. I have net heard of anyone having a rear mounted servo come out. You will need a couple of 12" extensions.
Don't worry about oil on the servo. I have been using external servos for years and have yet to have a problem.
I know the sides are blue. We didn't have any transparent yellow and this was a trash can plane. But, even at slightly over 8 1/2 lbs it still flies great.
#88

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From: Glendale,
AZ
Well guys,
Here's my 2 cents worth:
I have one completed and with about 600 flights on it with a Tower .75 and a 13x6 prop.
The prop lasted me about 580 flights before I dinged it, and I replaced it with a 13x8 prop.
I fly it off land or water with thi smotor and it flies great.
My photo album has a photo of it on final approach at lake pleasant, here in AZ back in June of 2005.
I have 2 bars of lead at the Vertical that are full length less 3 squares, with the receiver pack mounted aft of the servo tray, and a 16oz tank mounted in the nose (I like to fly for 20-30 minutes at a shot)
Never a problem for power.. SHe will hover just fine, but I am looking at putting a 14x4W on her for true hoverability, so I can pull out of the hover. Currently I just hover high enough to tip her over and go horizontal.
I set up the wings with the flaps, and everything works well.
I just finished one for a friend with a saito 100 that we are going to fly on this saturday.
I had a fellow flier at our club (about 4 years ago) with one in the Saito 100 configuration that he set up to fly 3D, and promptly removed the tail section in a hard snap, so if you are looking at doing hard 3D flying I strongly suggest reinforcing your tail section and possibly running flying wires or pushrods like the 4 star's do or the something extra does. (however he had 60 degrees of throw on all of his surfaces, and was really puishing the envelope of the aircraft when this happened)
If you are looking to fly off water I suggest getting a set of the Bridi Floats, and e-mail me for the locations to mount the thru-bolt blocks (they are a bout 6 hnches forward of where Bridi says to do it for this plane) My plane flies solidly with the floats and will even hover for a second or two.
Good Luck.
Dave
Here's my 2 cents worth:
I have one completed and with about 600 flights on it with a Tower .75 and a 13x6 prop.
The prop lasted me about 580 flights before I dinged it, and I replaced it with a 13x8 prop.
I fly it off land or water with thi smotor and it flies great.
My photo album has a photo of it on final approach at lake pleasant, here in AZ back in June of 2005.
I have 2 bars of lead at the Vertical that are full length less 3 squares, with the receiver pack mounted aft of the servo tray, and a 16oz tank mounted in the nose (I like to fly for 20-30 minutes at a shot)
Never a problem for power.. SHe will hover just fine, but I am looking at putting a 14x4W on her for true hoverability, so I can pull out of the hover. Currently I just hover high enough to tip her over and go horizontal.
I set up the wings with the flaps, and everything works well.
I just finished one for a friend with a saito 100 that we are going to fly on this saturday.
I had a fellow flier at our club (about 4 years ago) with one in the Saito 100 configuration that he set up to fly 3D, and promptly removed the tail section in a hard snap, so if you are looking at doing hard 3D flying I strongly suggest reinforcing your tail section and possibly running flying wires or pushrods like the 4 star's do or the something extra does. (however he had 60 degrees of throw on all of his surfaces, and was really puishing the envelope of the aircraft when this happened)
If you are looking to fly off water I suggest getting a set of the Bridi Floats, and e-mail me for the locations to mount the thru-bolt blocks (they are a bout 6 hnches forward of where Bridi says to do it for this plane) My plane flies solidly with the floats and will even hover for a second or two.
Good Luck.
Dave
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From: Pearland,
TX
Well I am using a G20 on my US 60 and it is a great engine for this plane. I did not have to cut the front like others suggest, I just put both battery packs as far back as possible and mounted the servos in the tail. No extra weight was needed. It is a blast to fly. And no expensive glow plugs, glow plug drivers or very expensive fuel.



