Ernie, am currently flying the stock pipe but am open to suggestions. If you can give me hard facts to back up the performance claim I would step up and do the Mousse can. I can tell you for a fact that, on my engine, a Magnum 1.08 carb did not do what many have claimed it would so am thinking about the pipe anyway. Would like to know RPM gain and exact pipe lengths and measurement points. As a side non-benefit... the Magnum carb is alot harder to get corrrect mixture with and a single click will put you there and another will put the engine wayyy lean. May go back to the ST carb.

Is that the carb off a 108 engine? If it's that large of a carburator, you might want to consider a Perry oscillating pump. The carb might be too big for the engine to draw the fuel through, so a pump would help.

Fuel pressurization as well as fuel draw are non-issues. I have the tank right behind the firewall and lines are only a few inches long. Engine idles, transitions, and runs okay at top end but , as I stated, needle adjustment range is minimal and a pump would not affect this. Am pretty good on engines and tuning and believe the 1.08 carb has a much more coarse adjustment, may have to do with needle taper....haven't checked.

I would definitely consider the RCV 90 SP engine. My US 60 is trully vertical with this engine using a 3 bladed 15.75 x 13 APC prop. Will need larger wheels to get proper clearance though...

The RCV is a perfect match in my opinion and would definitely recommend it to anybody.... Just remember to reinforce the firewall from the inside, this engine has tremendous amounts of torque!!!

Thanks, but I ordered the saito 100 today from the local hobby shop. After hearing it in some videos I knew it was what I had to have.

I'm sorry. I missed the part where you're running a pipe. If you get the pipe too short it will give you a really sensitive needle. Try lengthening the pipe and see if that helps.

I was thinking about picking up an US 60 w/ Saito 100 for my next plane. Just want to make sure if it will fit across the backseat of my car before I buy. Can someone please measure tip to tail. Right now I have a NexStar and if I pick the spinner and prop up onto the armrest of one door, I can have about an inch between the other door and the tail.

Thanks, I'd hate to get the thing all built up and not have any way to transport it to the field.

Also as long as I'm posting I might as well get some opinions on the US as a second plane... I just invested in a computer radio so I'll be able to take advantage of the flaps/crow, etc. Should I go w/ a stick, or get something low or mid wing? Obviously since this is my first plane after my trainer I'm not the best pilot in the world, but I'm doing alright and looking for something a bit more fun.

Thanks again,
Dave

The Ultra Stick 60 is 55" long with a 66" wingspan.

Ok guys, got my engine in today, and was wondering how you hooked up your throttles. The pic on the ultra stick box of the saito 100 had a different carb and the pushrod comes out in a good spot. The 100 I got has the throttle lever on the opposite side, so it comes out right in the corner of the firewall, to me not a spot you want to drill. Anybody have pics of how they did there's? Also, the needle valve is on the bottom. Kinda a pain like that.

The carb on the Saito 100 can be turned around.

Yeah, my dad showed me. The instructions should say something about that. Thanks. I'll be firing it up tomorrow.

Thanks Steve. Is 55" the length of the fuse, or is that tip to tail with engine and tail feathers installed? I think I have maybe 57ish inches across the back of my car, so it's gonna be a tight fit, want to make sure before I buy.

Dave

I measured mine with the Saito 100 and it is actually 58" from nose to tail.

Ran the engine today, and all I can say is WOW! It's more power than I expected. It's also much more responsive than I thought it would be. Now I'm done with the break-in, and need to begin tuning.

Dave, the US 60 would actually make a great 2nd plane. It will slow down so much for landings that it is almost laughable, and with low rates set (or the control throws dialed down a bit) it can fly very trainer-like. When you feel like going inverted or doing some aerobatics it's still comfortable with the symmetrical airfoil and zero dihedral built into the wing. As you get really good with it you will discover that it does not like to knive edge due to the fact that they have a bad rudder/pitch coupling issue, but it was never designed to be perfect for aerobatics or 3D. It's so good at sport flying though that this is usually overlooked. I think it is the high wing and low stab that does that.

Ernie

Thanks Ernie,

I'm going to measure the back seat again when it stops raining. Hopefully I can squeeze her in. Like I said earlier, my NexStar just barely fit, I was sweating a bit the first time I tried to load it in the car. That is about 56", so the stick is gonna be a really tight fit. Someone at the local field has one for sale (new in box with new engine), so I may just have to dry fit it before I buy...

Thanks again for the advice,
Dave

I broke down and bought the ultrastick 60 / saito 100 this weekend and am gearing up to build soon.

Does anyone have any pics of their servo and battery installation (rear mounted, not stock)? I want to get an idea where to mount them. I don't want to over do it and wind up having to add lead to the nose.

I also was wondering if there is any more elegant way of connecting/disconnecting the wing servos than 4 seperate connectors. Does anyone make a connector block so you are basically plugging in one large connector rather than 4 small ones? (Hoping to cut down on the goof factor a bit, and also make my life a bit easier)

Another general question, is there any minimum storage/use temperatures for epoxy? It has finally gotten cold in NJ, and my garage/workshop is not really heated (except for the 1500W space heater that is only on when I'm working).

Thanks,
Dave

Hey Dave what part of NJ? I'm central NJ. I got a couple ultra stick 40s and put a saito 82 on them and they are a blast to fly. I put it on crow and I can walk faster then it flys. I got the stick 60 and put the Zenoah G20 (because I wanted to get in gas engines) on that and that thing moves but due to weight it cant fly as slow as the 40s. finally got some snow now I can put skis on them.

I installed a couple of aileron servos in the tail (Hitec HS-77BB's) in my Ultra Stick 40 with a Saito 80 and it balances out great. Just cut a hole in each side near the rear, and reinforced with some lite ply strips. Battery mounts right in the center of the aircraft. Flys like a dream.

I'm in central jersey as well. I fly out of Edison, right behind Middlesex County College. Our club also recently got permission to use a field in East Brunswick, but I haven't had the chance to fly there yet. Let me know how those ski's work out...

Dave

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The new SK 90 two-stroke spins a 15x6 with aplomb too. <G>

I agree with your Saito 100 selection. The Saito .82, which is a fine engine for forty sized airplanes, is a bit anemic for a .60 sized plane.


Ed Cregger

No pictures yet, but my elevator servo is mounted 3" in front of the LE of the stabilizer. (that's the center of the servo) It is mounted as low in the fuse as possible, on the right hand side of the fuse.

The Rudder servo (pull pull setup) is mounted in the very center of the top of the fuse, and it is 8" (servo center) from the LE of the stab.

I used a short piece of CF tube for the pushrod on the stab servo, and a Dubro Pull Pull kit on the rudder servo. With a ST 90 on the nose, I still had to add 3 little stick on weights on the tail, not much at all really.

This definitely the way to go. I would do it again in a second.

Ernie

Thanks Ernie,

I may try to do the same. If it's not too much trouble, can you take a few pictures and send them to me ([email protected]). Also were did you mount your battery? Did you bury it in the fuse? If I could get away with just puttinng my battery further back and keep the servos in their stock location it would probably a bit easier. Also keeping the servos inside and away from the exhaust slime is appealing to me. I don't mind adding a bit of lead to the tail, but it seems some have had to add 6-7 oz with the saito 100. This seems a bit excessive to me, and I'd rather shift a few things back.

And as I asked previously how do you have your aileron/flap servos connected? Do you just plug/unplug all 4 from the receiver or an exetension every time? Or is there a cleaner way (I'm envisioning some sort of connector block that can gang up multiple servo plugs on both ends and give you one disconnect point, however I've never seen such a thing).

Dave

Dave, if you don't mount your servos in the rear you'll wish that you did. There is only a small learning curve to it. (email me at [email protected] and I'll send you some photos this coming weekend)

I mounted my battery as far back as I could without burying it in the fuse. That was easy because with the servos in the rear, you can remove the stock servo mounting tray and mount the battery back there.

Don't worry about the oil on the servos too much. The top, rudder servo stays totally clean and the ele servo only gets a small amount of oil if you angle your muffler down AND use an exhaust deflector on it.

For the servo mounts, you just cut out a hole and then glue some ply mounts to the inside of the fuse. I can send you a photo of how to make those little mounts also. Very easy. And if you have never used a pull pull setup on the rudder, you will be in for a treat.

Ernie

I mounted my servos in the back cause I need the weight back there + I put in 2 batteries 2700 for the receiver and 4500 for the zenoah g20 engine. I put the batteries as far back as I could and CG came out just right.