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Hangar 9 1/4 Scale Piper Cub ARF???

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Old 08-31-2013, 08:57 AM
  #1426  
HELI-MECH
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Originally Posted by althepal88
I put the PA 18 cowl up to my J-3 and yes, it will fit perfectly. You will have to fabricate new mounting blocks. You are on your own if you are looking to match the paint. The closest commercially available color match is Parma yellow that I use on my rc cars. Prime the cowl in white, color with the Parma, and then clear coat to seal the finish.
Thank you for the response, I very much appreciate you doing that. Its good to know before I order it. I will try to locate that paint as well.
Old 08-31-2013, 11:43 AM
  #1427  
althepal88
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For an idea on the mounting blocks.......download the assembly manual on the PA-18 from the Horizon Hobby site.
Old 09-01-2013, 06:49 AM
  #1428  
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Mike~ I would tell ya to try the stock H9 gear. I have two 1/4 scale H9 Cubs and absolutely love the action on the stock gear. It is very scale and functional, IMO it is not worth it to buy the robarts unless you break these (which is pretty difficult to do). Even if I broke mine today, I would by the stock again before I got the robarts.

If you are around today, I will be taking mine to Stone Mountain RC Flyers if you want to come check it out. Come on by

Bradley


Originally Posted by jmcowart
Shifting to a slightly different area of interest I am wondering about the Robart Gear for the Hanger 9 1/4 scale J3 Cub. I have an H9 J3 Cub ARF ready to start assembly and was trying to decide about the landing gear. What is the benefit of the Robart system over the Hanger 9 stock landing gear? I was under the possibly mistaken impression the stock landing gear was an all metal scale version of the original Cub gear. Am I mistaken? If so, what's the difference? Would it be worth the extra cost to obtain the Robart gear? I'm willing, as I want not only true as is practical scale, but strength and reliability. Is that goal met by the stock landing gear that comes with the ARF? Or should I go with the Robart?

I would sure appreciate some insights on this question - and of course, some pointers on which way to go. Thanks for the help.
Mike
Douglasville, GA
Old 09-01-2013, 08:47 AM
  #1429  
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Many thanks. I had about come to the same conclusion just from reading the forums and I certainly appreciate your thoughts. That is exactly what I will do. I have ordered a set of DuBro 6" inflatable wheels to use with the H91/4J3, to help with the rough grass surfaces at our field, to help minimize "bounce" and just cause I like the Tundra-way they look. Today is family birthday time and the Grandson has elected the Olive Garden, so Stone Mountain is not an option today. Thank you kindly for the invite.

Our club is getting our field and plans ready for our annual Douglas County Appreciation Day fun-fly and open house coming up and soon as that is out of the way I will be starting on the Hanger 9 1/4 scale J3. I look forward to it and I'm sure I will ask for help and advice as I go along. I am putting a DLE 30 on the cub.

Thank you again for the information and suggestion. I agree, and will do. Best Regards, Mike in Douglasville.

Originally Posted by bsbauman
Mike~ I would tell ya to try the stock H9 gear. I have two 1/4 scale H9 Cubs and absolutely love the action on the stock gear. It is very scale and functional, IMO it is not worth it to buy the robarts unless you break these (which is pretty difficult to do). Even if I broke mine today, I would by the stock again before I got the robarts.

If you are around today, I will be taking mine to Stone Mountain RC Flyers if you want to come check it out. Come on by

Bradley
Old 09-01-2013, 11:22 AM
  #1430  
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my only other advise is that if you go with the tundra tires, try to always take off of the grass. Asphalt runways will wear the tires out a bit faster.
Old 09-02-2013, 05:35 AM
  #1431  
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Robart makes Two sets of 1/4 scale cub gear.. 1 for the BUSA Cub and 1 for the Sig Cub .. The BUSA Cub is wider.. I have all 3 gear .. The Hanger 9 gear is every bit as well built as the Robart as far as I can tell and it is painted as well..The Hanger 9 that I have is on the PA18 but it will be the same except for possibly the width . I love the Robart gear but would not replace Hanger 9 gear because there is no reason to .. It is completly finished , works great.. Stands up as good as anything .. (don't over o ring it) make the suspension too hard . It needs to work . About 4 o rings per side ,or use shock cord ..
Old 09-02-2013, 05:46 AM
  #1432  
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I have both Hanger 9's new PA18 and Two 1/4 scale J3 Cubs....The PA18 Cowl is entirely different .. It is way wider and much lower in height.. I can give you the measurements if you need them...A PA18 cowl wont fit on any of my J3 Cubs .. You can get the Hanger 9 J3 cowl too or buy unfinished ones from BUSA or fiberglass specialties ..
Old 09-02-2013, 06:46 AM
  #1433  
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Default Cub Yellow Paint

Originally Posted by althepal88
I put the PA 18 cowl up to my J-3 and yes, it will fit perfectly. You will have to fabricate new mounting blocks. You are on your own if you are looking to match the paint. The closest commercially available color match is Parma yellow that I use on my rc cars. Prime the cowl in white, color with the Parma, and then clear coat to seal the finish.
I have found that Top Flite Cub Yellow # TORR 7518 is an almost perfect match for the H9 J3. It take 5-6 coats to get the color match.
Fred
Old 09-02-2013, 07:27 AM
  #1434  
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If you are talking about a color match I am not sure about that.. My PA18 is blue and white.. However the firewall on the PA18 and the J3 are shaped quite differently and if you are going to convert a J3 to a PA18 you will need to do some work there.. The J3 is tall and skinny with a round top and the PA18 is wider and has a flat top...I used some paint from Canadian Tire called Krylon Sun Yellow to spray the cowl on my BUSA Cub , also the interior .. It is not a perfect match to my 21 century fabric but it will do ... I can't get the Top Flite Paint up here in Canada as they consider it dangerous goods and wont ship .. I think it is a better color match if you build up the layers.. They are both reasonaby fuel proof ..
Old 09-03-2013, 05:49 AM
  #1435  
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Originally Posted by bikerbc
If you are talking about a color match I am not sure about that.. My PA18 is blue and white.. However the firewall on the PA18 and the J3 are shaped quite differently and if you are going to convert a J3 to a PA18 you will need to do some work there.. The J3 is tall and skinny with a round top and the PA18 is wider and has a flat top...I used some paint from Canadian Tire called Krylon Sun Yellow to spray the cowl on my BUSA Cub , also the interior .. It is not a perfect match to my 21 century fabric but it will do ... I can't get the Top Flite Paint up here in Canada as they consider it dangerous goods and wont ship .. I think it is a better color match if you build up the layers.. They are both reasonaby fuel proof ..
thanks for the info guys, I plan to replace the firewall and everything behind that to the window area to scale it to PA18. My firewall is already broken as it was stepped on GOod oppurtunity to change it to the pa18 set up as well as flaps, and tail feather mods. I'll most likely take a piece of covering in and get it color matched at our auto paint store for a can of spray bomb that will match well.
Old 09-06-2013, 06:36 AM
  #1436  
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Could I please make another request to pick the brains of you guys who have been there and done that? This time around I am hoping I can use a Jtec Pitts Wrap Around muffler on the DLE30 I have waiting for installation on my H91/4J3.

Is there room with the standard standoffs? Has anyone set up their Cub this way- with a DLE30 and Jtec Pitts Wrap Around Muffler? I don't want to hack anymore out of the firewall than needed for carburator, etc requirements.

I have a Jtec Pitts Wrap Around on my YAK54 with DA60 and it just required a lot of surgery on the cowl bottom. Is the 1/4 scale Hanger 9 J3 the same way?

I would sure appreciate advice and the benefit of your experience on this so I don't typically go staggering off like a drunk playing center in a soccer game. Thanks, You'all.

Mike in Douglasville
Old 09-13-2013, 10:39 PM
  #1437  
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I just picked up a never flown H9 1/4 Super Cub, PA18 but did not get the wing tube. Since HH does not support this plane any more can someone tell me the correct OD for the tube and if it is aluminum or carbon fiber. also where might I find one?
Thanks !
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:21 AM
  #1438  
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Originally Posted by gva1956
I just picked up a never flown H9 1/4 Super Cub, PA18 but did not get the wing tube. Since HH does not support this plane any more can someone tell me the correct OD for the tube and if it is aluminum or carbon fiber. also where might I find one?
Thanks !
I may have a NIP wing tube. Measure the ID of the tube in the wing and how deep the tube is. Also measure the width of fuse at the wing tube.

In the mean time I'll look for it.
Old 09-14-2013, 06:03 AM
  #1439  
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I did measure the ID of the tube section in the fuse and came out with 27.7mm. Thought that rather odd so I felt I should see what others say.
Thanks for checking.
Old 09-14-2013, 07:32 AM
  #1440  
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I measured the tube in my New Hanger 9 PA18 and it is only 19 mm I guess they have down sized them a bit .. The wing tube in my Sea Gull Spacewalker 120 is 24.7 mm. When you measure it inside of your wing you will get a larger measurement by a few mm. to allow for a little free play ..They are both aluminum and I see no reason why either aluminum or carbon fiber would not work for your Cub . I think if you do a search on line you will be able to find someplace that will sell tubes in the size you require ..Sometimes even after a plane has been discontinued you can still get parts .. Have you checked ? It is a pain in the butt when you can't get parts for some of these planes because they are really nice birds . I like the PA18 . Thats why I bought the new one .. I have bought a spare cowl , windshield and window set for mine just in case they become discontinued and I need one .. ..How did you get lucky enough to find an older Unflown PA18 ? Thats a pretty good score .. I am not sure but given the choice I might choose the older one over the new one..The only down side is that you can't get parts ..I see them still flying and the are awesome planes.. Very well built..
Old 09-14-2013, 10:07 AM
  #1441  
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Originally Posted by gva1956
I did measure the ID of the tube section in the fuse and came out with 27.7mm. Thought that rather odd so I felt I should see what others say.
Thanks for checking.
Maybe these folk can help you.

http://www.rcfoam.com/index.php?cPat...c6b0eb73891914
Old 09-14-2013, 10:22 AM
  #1442  
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I'll look to see if i have an extra around.


casey
Old 09-14-2013, 02:44 PM
  #1443  
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A 27mm tube would result in .014 inch radial clearance. Check http://www.tntlandinggear.com/composite_tubes.htm for 27 mm tubes.
Fred
Old 09-14-2013, 08:59 PM
  #1444  
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Just wanted to double check with someone who owns one that 27mm is the correct size. That link for CF tubes will be very helpful, Thanks everyone.
Old 10-15-2013, 12:43 PM
  #1445  
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Finally have had the opportunity to get into my recently received H9 1/4 J3 Cub - What a nice ARF this is....... Good quality all the way. No problems with it at all. Took me a little while to be sure all the adhesive covering was activated and to fully shrink the covering. There were not too many wrinkles even without shrinking. This is a relatively big fuselage and wings and I think it took me two hours each to shrink and get rid of all wrinkles on the wings and fuselage. My hand looked and felt like a crab by the time I was finished but It looks nice.

As I am putting a DLE 30 on the Cub I had to position the standoffs and the engine properly and drill correct pilot holes for the DLE30 standoffs. Got that done and sealed the front of the firewall with epoxy. I have removed part of the light ply where the stock fuel tank goes as I am using a 16 OZ RotoFlow tank. I have sealed the inside of the nose and firewall with epoxy as well. Now all I have to do is figure out how to position and secure the FotoFlow tank. Possibly industrial strength velcro and at least one velcro strap, assuming I can contort my hands to fit a strip in the confined space.

I did some minor painting in the cabin area. There is a bare plywood edge at every joint pretty much, so I went over all those edges with a Chrome Yellow mixed up by Home Depot. Matches pretty well.

Have all the CA hinges installed and the ailerons and elevators also installed. I am delaying the rudder until I can work on the tail flying wires and other points. Must install the tailwheel tomorrow.

I changed out the stock Cub wheels for DuBro inflatable 6" wheels (without air inflating them) and they look very nice. Not Tundra of course, but a bit more substantial than the 4.5" stock wheels. The grass at our field can probably be better handled by the 6" tires I think. I had to make up new axles for the DuBro wheels. Got 3/16" music wire from the LHS, cut off the needed lengths and, using the dremel, gound out notches for the set screws. I replaced the M4 set screws with M4X8 stainless socket head screws. Of course everything was installed with blue locktite. I put a full drop of medium CA on the nuts and screws holding the wheel hubs together. Will have to watch them to see if they remain tight.

I'm thoroughly enjoying working on this ARF. It is of excellent quality, and there is room enough to work. Looking forward to assembling the wing struts.

Regarding the landing gear: I had wondered if the Robart gear was better. I have found the stock landing gear that came with the Cub to be excellent quality and strength. I did purchase a couple of collapasing struts to replace the stock ones. I will be using O-rings instead of the stock springs and the Robart struts (although about 1/8' short) are built to hold bungees or O-rings. Painted them up with the Chrome Yellow from Home Depot and they look and work great....

If anyone has any suggestions, tips, cautions, ideas, or opinions I would be greatful to hear them. I know there is a lot of experience out there on these great Cubs, and would certainly appreciate tapping into that wealth of knowledge. Thanks. Mike from Douglasville.
Old 10-15-2013, 01:44 PM
  #1446  
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I think you will find that the landing gear is top notch , You may however want to use 1/8"shock cord in place of the O rings . I think you will find that the O rings don't last very long ..You can find the shock cord at sporting goods stores , Its used inside tent poles and things like that . I find about 20" tied into a big band and then CA the knot . Wrap it around the little bolts on your gear and you can play with the tension till you get it right . It will last forever .. Well a long time anyway ..You have a fantastic plane ..That DLE 30 is going to be big power .. You will need to keep your weight forward and still add some lead ..I use the DU bro 1/3 scale Cub wheels on my 1/4 scale Cubs.. I have Three ..I use 5/32" Allen head cap screws for axels . They work great . I purchase them in bulk from Micro Fasteners .
Old 10-15-2013, 02:04 PM
  #1447  
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The os gemini 160 can be faund in rc univers used for a round 500 usd in clisfied
Old 10-15-2013, 02:56 PM
  #1448  
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The ASP 160 twin is in stock at Hobby King for $358.19 .. Clone to the OS 160 twin ..I have one and they are great motors but he has made his motor choice already .
Old 10-16-2013, 06:01 AM
  #1449  
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Default Hanger 9 1/4 Scale Piper Cub ARF

Originally Posted by bikerbc
I think you will find that the landing gear is top notch , You may however want to use 1/8"shock cord in place of the O rings . I think you will find that the O rings don't last very long ..You can find the shock cord at sporting goods stores , Its used inside tent poles and things like that . I find about 20" tied into a big band and then CA the knot . Wrap it around the little bolts on your gear and you can play with the tension till you get it right . It will last forever .. Well a long time anyway ..You have a fantastic plane ..That DLE 30 is going to be big power .. You will need to keep your weight forward and still add some lead ..I use the DU bro 1/3 scale Cub wheels on my 1/4 scale Cubs.. I have Three ..I use 5/32" Allen head cap screws for axels . They work great . I purchase them in bulk from Micro Fasteners .
Thanks bikerbc, I appreciate and enjoy the comments. Thanks for the advice. I am planning to use two batteries, positioned as far forward as I can shoehorn them in place. One 5,000 mAh LiFE for receiver and servos, and one 1,100 mAh LiFE for ignition with SmartFly regulated Opti-Kill switch. Planning heavy-ish servos for the throttle and choke slots. If I need the extra weight I hope it won't be too much of a problem with the DLE 30 and the big Cub wing area.

I'll try to locate some shock cord as you suggest and take a look at that option. It would be nice to have a set up that lasts.

Thanks again. How's the weather holding up in BC? You'all aren't into snow yet, are you?
Best Regards, Mike in Douglasville.
Old 10-16-2013, 08:01 AM
  #1450  
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I have the same Cub, but added the H-9 floats to it. Extremely realistic and easy to fly.


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