bikerbc

I also have the hanger 9 floats but I have mine on my PA18 .. I like how they look but I find them quite fragile .. I added a layer of glass to the bottom of mine and it really helped to stiffen them up . They still leak a bit . You really need to watch the leaking and dry them out because if you don't they will mould and the plywood frame will disintegrate ..pull the servo hatch and the little round hatch on the front after every flying session and check for water ..They really are beautiful to look at but to be honest I would much sooner have the home made foam ones ., It is a LOT more work but they cant leak , they look just as good ( if you put the work in ) they are light , they work great and they are much stronger...

jmcowart

Got the firewall and forward fuselage well sealed with epoxy. Horozontal stabilizers installed. All control surfaces CA in place and well aligned and secured. Landing gear installed with Robart shock struts and 6" DuBro wheels (unfortunately no Cub-marked hubs.....). Started on the tail flying wires. I decided to not even try the stock setup and hardware as that seems to be possibly the most frequently seen problem people have encountered. So I won't even start down that street.

I used the familiar DuBro steel strip with three holes on the tailwheel strut as an attach point for the lower flying wires. The thin brass pieces do seem way to flimsy. I am using all DuBro heavy duty hardware and 4-40 pushrods. I am attaching the same DuBro steel strips to attach to on the verticle stabilizer and on the horozontal stabilizer top and bottom. Again, it is a matter of structural strength and security. I think the use of button head screws would look best and am in the middle of a local search for stainless 4-40 X 5/8" button head allen head bolts. I have ordered some from Zoro Tools on line with three day delivery, but would like to find some at Ace, Home Depot, or Graingers...... (A penalty of the confirmed OCD practioneer).

The top of the flying wire rod screws into the bracket which bolts to the steel strip while the bottom of the rod is silver soldered into the bottom bracket.

Today, I'm going to attach the tailwheel springs for steering. They will need to be bent and possibly twisted back through the attachment hole in order to be a sufficiently strong connection enough to prevent slop and slack. Then I think I will put a coat or two of Chrome Yellow on the inside panels for appearance sake. There are mighty thin coats of paint on them now.

This continues to be a fun ARF to assemble. Its easy to work on thanks to the great design and quality work on the parts and also due to the relatively large and easy to access nature of the 1/4 scale Cub. Already working on looking for the best way of attaching the wings inside in place of nylon bolts. Anyone got suggestions?

Thanks. MIke in Douglasville

HELI-MECH

Well, after the help I received on here and RCgroups, i have started my conversion. J3 to PA18. Since this plane was stepped on, firewall broken out, elevators crushed, and side of the fuse kicked... how ever this happened i am not sure, but i got it for a great price and i like projects and it is the perfect candidate for a conversion. I have so far, removed the old firewall, dash bulkhead, and fuel tank support, rebuilt the wider fuel tank support to accommodate a parallel fuselage forward of the window area. I have dummy fit some dummy firewalls and paper covering to achieve the look i am going for. The j3 portion forward of the window is very round, and the PA18 is much flatter. After awhile i was able to get the flatter look. Next I will be building the firewall, and start reassembly.

Still to come: flaps, pa18 elevators and rudder, larger skylight.

bikerbc

Great job Heli Mech .. You must been reaall pissed to kick the crap outa your plane like that though , stompin the firewall off and kickin the side in ..Did you stomp the wings too?? ..Im just kidding ..

bikerbc

I was just thinking , don't forget the down thrust and right side thrust ..

HELI-MECH

Biker, haha yes don't tell ajyone about my rage... I take out on my planes. I am lucky enough to have the sidewalls in oerfect shape and I believe the sidewalls keyway where the firewall inserts into will give me my stock settings.

jmcowart

Been away from the shop for a few days - wife had a scheduled surgery, but is now well on the road to recovery....

I installed the DuBro heavy duty tail flying wires on my Cub. Bad case of overkill I'm afraid. They look good, are very strong and easy to install, but - just way too heavy and out of scale by all reason. Also had a problem fitting the 4-40 Nyloc nuts on the bolts which attach the wires. All just too big and not able to fit without seriously pressing on covering.

So off came the BuBro to be saved for the 40% Hempel Cub and on went the Sullivan Flying Wire Bracing kit using the Kevlar threads. Great system and easy to put on using simple crimps and anchored with 4-40 bolts. I couldn't decide between the plated stainless braided wire or the Kevlar. I thought the braided wire looks much better, but finally chose the Kevlar specifically to avoid making a loop antenna out of the flying wire braces. It becomes an unbroken metal circle when installed and that is a loop antenna.

I really don't know if that would produce any negative results or interference with a 2.4 Meg transmitter and receiver, but the instructions with the bracing wire kit specifically mention that an antenna would be created by an unbroken metal to metal connection and I want to avoid that just in case.

Does anyone know for sure if that could be a problem? It is beyond my technical level and I would sure like to hear some facts about this subject if anyone could contribute them. Possibly it is simply a matter of the created loop antenna picking up electrical interference - static - from the gasoline engine system and radiating such static to other parts of the electronics in the plane? - and now I have just skated off the edge of my technical knowledge world. Help!
By the way, thats a good looking job on the Super Cub conversion Heli-Mech, and very interesting. Thanks you'all, Mike in Douglasville

[]TEX[]

I soldered the ends, loops are a bad idea.

jmcowart

I soldered the ends too. The rest of the loop is completed by metal to metal contact between brackets, bolts and 4-40 rods as flying wires. Solder was only required on the non-clevis end of each support wire (4-40 steel rod). Soldered one end, the other attaches with adjustable clevis. Point being that it is all metal to metal, creating a loop of metal, which constitutes a loop antenna.......

Am I missing a point here? Thanks. Mike

The RC Dude

My Feedback: (3)

Saw somewhere in this thread about a 40cc in this Cub. Has someone put this vvrc engine in one? I like the scale look but love 3d. This would be a fun combo.

HELI-MECH

Would also like to know this

HELI-MECH

Still plugging away, I have the elevators and rudder done, firewall done, left side of fuse recovered, and working on skylight and windscreen area at the moment.

Jb Stearman

My Feedback: (8)

Hello Cub guys, Great thread.

I also bashed my 1/4 J-3 into a PA-18 super cub.Used the new super cub cowl and cut it down to the right length to fit the G- 26. I cut the flaps into the J-3 wings and did the mods to the tail section.Ended up cutting and forming the front windshield to the super cub style which changes the whole look. I used the Dubro 1/3 scale wheels

HELI-MECH

That looks great, I'm envious that you have yours flying! I've still got an engine to put in and all of the electronics. I still have to cut flaps as well, here is my progress... slowed down by my kids again, not as much time as i used to have for building stuff

Jb Stearman

My Feedback: (8)

Heli-mech

Your rebuild is really looking good.Hang in there,it will get done.I see a set of H-9 floats on something above the cub.I have a set for mine still in the box and can't wait to build and install them this coming spring. For my flaps, I drew guide lines on both sides of the wing panel,taped along the lines and used a hacksaw blade by itself to cut the flap away from the wing.The "pucker factor" really goes up when you cut into a perfectly good wing!!
Jim

HELI-MECH

THat looks great! Did you widen the firewall as well? I did for the simple fact mine was broken and it was a good oppurtunity, as redoing the tail feathers s they were wrecked as well. I love your cub, it looks great! Yes, those are the H9 cub floats, i need to reglass the bottoms to make them a little stronger and i will go the scale rigging route instead of onboard float servos. I am in the works of making some skis for it as well, the tail ski is done and the main skis are getting made as well... havent figured it all out yet, but getting there. How did you hinge your flaps? and cut out the servo mount holes and cover plates?

Jb Stearman

My Feedback: (8)

Heli-Mech

My flaps are top hinged. When up, there is very little gap to disturb airflow over the wing. When deployed, there is still very little gap.I used large pinned hinges.on ALL my control surfaces, reslotted and epoxied in.Much more free and stronger.After cutting away the flap,smooth the edges. You will have to cut away about 1/2" to 5/8" of the bottom side of the flap.This will give you the angle clearence when the flaps come down. Cut away the small pieces of ribs at an angle to where you can insert flush, the face piece.Do not cut the WING trailing edge. Leave it square and just notch out the ribs to accept the cover face flush with the edges. All this work is going to keep the flap the same width so it will be in line with the wing trailing edge .DON'T FORGET to glue in the hinge blocks BEFORE you cover the faces !!!!!
While working, check to see that the flap edge and wing edge look straight.For hinge location;I made my slots start right under the sheeting and angle slightly downward into the block. finish sanding and test fit. Do one flap at a time.


For the servos, I used the aileron cover plates for a pattern and used aircraft plywood the same thickness as the sheeting on the inboard part of the wing. I kept the exact same distance from the LE as the aileron cut outs.Mount your servos on the cover plate the same as the aileron servos. I built a frame around the inside of the opening using pieces of aircraft plywood. I located the openings in the bay between the last two ribs under the sheeting before the open bay.The servo output shafts will have to be pointing the same way for the flaps to work right.Finish one mounting at a time. Study my pics above to get an idea of what all this rambling on means. Hope I haven't confused you too much.

Jim

Jb Stearman

My Feedback: (8)

I did not do anything to the firewall.I ordered the super cub cowl and the window set.I shortened the cowl to meet the 6" from firewall to engine drive washer requirement and handmade the attachment blocks to fit. The windshield was too short and flat,So I ended up cutting and fitting my own from clear plastic sheet. Like you did ,I modified the cabin top to accept the removable super cub skylite.This makes plugging in servo leads a whole lot easier!! I did the scale pull pull float rudder stearing on my Goldberg cub years ago.Simple,worked perfect and looked scale. I like your idea for the ski on the tail wheel gear.
Something else I did for ease was to mount the on/off switch on the removable floor board and right inside the door.

Jim

HELI-MECH

Thanks for all of the great info, flaps are next so I will tackle them as you described. I may shorten my firewall a bit as its 1/2 an inch too long but doesn't look too bad. The only reason the new 1/4 super cub window worked for me was because I flattened out the firewall. Kinda between scale and hangar 9 version of the pa18. Thanks for all the great info and pics!

Jb Stearman

My Feedback: (8)

Heli Mech, Just for grins-----Here are a couple pictures of the 40 size H-9 Piper J-3 that I restored to a super cub after it was badly wrecked. I recovered it with 21st.fabric and powered it with the OS 56fs. The flight envelope with flaps down is pretty awesome!! JIM

HELI-MECH

That one looks great as well! Got the super cub bug I see it's been snowing lots here so I will be flying my super cub 25 e soon.

krokko

Hi,
I started my H9 cub with a DL30, swapped to a ASP160 twin, converted to gas, I'm happy! The cub is happier! more scale look with the ASP, both sound and flight!

Mustang314

My Feedback: (1)

Looks good. Photo is mine using an OS 160 Twin. What are you using for fuel?
Fred

krokko

I'm using regular gas 95oct with 4% synth.oil.
/krokko

jmcowart

I'm putting a DLE 30 with JTEC Pitts Wrap Around Muffler in the ARF. I also added some heavy duty items instead of the stock items. I used Heavy Duty DuBro control horns that you can see on the rudder and elevator. I decided to use 5000 mAh LiFE battery pack for flight battery, as can be seen as a mound in the middle of the cabin. I ended up with the HD control horns because for the life of me I can get a 2-56 screw straight from the nylon control horn through the aileron, rudder, or elevator to the nylon base it is supposed to screw into. So instead of butchering some more control surfaces I used the HD horns. This added some problems, of course. It all clears without interference at the control surfaces but needed a 3" double servo arm for the rudder servo (to preserve the correct pull-pull geometry). This required the rudder servo to raised above the two elevator servo arms.

I am also using a 16 OZ Roto-Flow fuel tank instead of the standard tank. Since the JTEC Pitts style muffler exhaust pipes are right next to the firewall I can't put the ignition module on the firewall. What to do? What to do?

I plan to install the ignition module in the nose area where the stock tank is supposed to go along with the choke servo.
The Roto-Flow tank will go where the front seat was supposed to go in my plan. The throttle servo will mount on the cabin wall just about where the front throttle lever is supposed to go. I will use a removable tray with industrial Velcro for both ignition and fuel tank - with plenty of padding and vibration isolation material. The optical kill switch receiver will also go in the nose area.

Wow! A lot of trouble, specially when the stock recommended components go so well and a stock interior looks so good.
I had heavy duty (and slightly larger) servos on hand and wanted to use them. I explained the HD control horns. I also had on hand and wanted to try the Roto-Flow system, and the LiFE packs are lighter than other similar mAh NiMH packs, and I want to leave them in place and charge them only once a day. And finally, I am going to put a 40% Hempel Cub together next and wanted to practice with some of the components I will use there....

I would welcome advice or opinions. I particularly would like to hear if you'all think there is enough cut out of the bottom of the cowl for venting airflow. The DLE 30 cylinder is mostly exposed directly to airflow, so I am hoping it will cool OK with that setup. What do you think?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks guys.