My new Dave Patrcik Models Ultimate 40 ARF is not aligned correctly. I'm not really sure what the best way is to attack this problem.

The wings are off, the right wing tip is 1/2" lower than the left. To make matters worse the tail feathers are out the other way. The horizontal stab is low on thge left side by 1/4", and the vertical stab is leaning accordinagly.

I suspect the wing saddle is out a bit. Last night I proved that by slipping a piece of 1/16" balsa between the left wing saddle and wing and got the wings nearly level. I can't decide if I should just carve out the right wing saddle, pad the left wing saddle down a it or both.

I think the tail of the fuse is twisted though since the entire tail is out. The tail was not out like this when I assmbled it, 2 months ago. The plane is stored inside the house so weather conditions were not an issue.

As a teenager I flew planes that were like this, but nowadays I am trying to things the right way, and don't want to lose $800 due to foolishness. FWIW, this is the first plane I have built/assembled in almost 10 years.

Thanks in advance!

Can you send it back? You could probably fix all of those things, but I'm not sure it'd be worth your time.

Give DP a call and see what they recommend.

Mike

I can't send it back at this point, at least I doubt it. It's basically finished, and now I find the probs of course. I am going to call DP in the morning.

Thanks!

Sorry to hear of your problems. I too had problems with a DP model, not the same one but the 330L. I had a warped wing, and that same wing was somewhat thinner than the other one. Also the stab tubes were not aligned properly. I ended up just working through it, and fixing the problems. Now I have what looks to be a pretty rock solid, and very straight and true airplane. From what I hear, DP service is not that great you may as well try to fix the problems. When I called them about the wing warp, I had already started in on the problem, got frustrated and emailed them. After two weeks, and already fixing the wing problem, I received an email back. The response was to send my wing in for inspection if I have not already started on it, and if determined a problem, they would discount a new wing panel! Wow what service! I obviously wanted to displasure of fixing there problem, or I would have called them on it. All in all, it is a very nice airplane, and if you have any experience with building, you should be able to work through it. Good luck with your project! Overall DP models are very nicely done! Oh yeah, I have yet to own a "Perfect" arf! They do not exist, and I do not expect them to exist! It sure is nice though to open that huge box with a pretty already built and covered airplane! Isn't it? Even if you end up recovering half of it later due to all the mods that it needed ha! ha!

I can work through the issues and expect I will have to do so. The wing should be easy enough to correct. The tail though, I haven't decided if I want to try to gently twist it back or just try to get some flying wires to pull it back into shape.

I had an all balsa plane, Hobbico Viper, that after 8 years of sitting the tail had warped this way. I was able to spray the inside of the fuse with water and then support the tail and fuse very well to let it dry. It worked great but took 3 days. With the DP Ultimate being mostly light ply I am not sure this will work.

Your right ARF's are not perfect and they are beautiful to look at in the box. They have some issues here and there, but I will continue to buy them. I will say this is the best looking, best built, best covered and easiest to assemble ARF I have ever had. Course my last ARF was about 10 years ago. they have changed alot. Heck they use real covering now.

I have heard DPM's service is not great as well.

Thanks.

Yeah, Im bitten by the ARF bug! Its hard to beat. I will say this though, I probably could have built a "kit" in the time its taken me to straighten out this DP 330. Granted, some issues with the DP have been ones I created like hinging! I decided to rehinge with robart pinpoints, and I just hate the hinging process. Its that one area of building, that I just dread! (But most were mods that others had recommended here on RCU due to flutter problems). When you buy an ARF, you are immediately ready to hinge! I think the only ARF other than trainers, that I have owned and had to do absolutly no mods too was a Sig somethin extra. But you know what, Im very tempted to buy the new DP edge! Whats wrong with me....... I keep telling myself, next plane will be kit, not an ARF. Im addicted I guess! The main thing is too have fun with the hobby and not to let things get you down!

With your situation, you may be able to shim the wing, or use the wing seating tape. Just make it a little thicker on the side that needs shimmed. The sTab, if its already glued down, thats a tough one. After you had assembled it and the glue was dry, was everything straight? You know, I had Lanier Cap 232, that had sheeted foam wing cores. I sheeted the second wing and it was perfectly straight, and when I pulled it off the table to let it sit till I had time to work on it again, it had warped! No idea why this happend, but it threw me some major grief. My only guess on that one, I had not yet installed the leading edge??? That was my second foam wing airplane, my first turned perfectly. That was a kit plane not an arf.

I have been thinking of wing seat tape as well. I may just go that way, or at least try it first. It'll be quick and easy.

The tail was perfect when I got it all glued together. But it has been about 10-11 weeks since then. I think I may block it up for a few days and see if it'll warp back with everything sitting straight. If not maybe flying wires will pull it all around, at least close.

I love that new DP Edge. Maybe someday.

Just a question for the heck of it.
Is the wing seat off?
Or perhaps the wing itself of off?
Anyway the wing problem is an easy fix but before you do anything to the wing seat I would check the wing.
The other problem is more difficult but can be worked out.
Just my 2 cents

I have cheecked both the wing and seat very carefully now. the wing seat is the fault. The good news is by lipping a piece of 1/16" balsa between the wing and the seat it is nearly perfect. I am going to pad the left side wing seat down a strip of 1/16" balsa and patch the covering. I think that will fix the wing. At least it'll be out only about 1mm.

I think I have the tail worked out as well. I actually tried my old trick to untwist the fuse. I took the wings off, sprayed down the inside with water. Then I support the tail of the table with a block under the left side and a weight on the right side. After 14 hours it's nearly dry and it's out about 1.5mm-2mm. I still have to re-shrink the covering though to hold it there. If the tail doesn't hold I think I get some flying wires to pull back to were it should be.

I think I can live with that little bit og alignment flaw. 1/2" on the wing and 1/4" on the tail was too much though. Certainly since they were in opposite directions.

Well I did get the wings worked out. I just simply gut a strip of 1/16" balsa and wet it down. Slped it between the wing and the wing seat to warp it into shape. Just have to glue it on and cover it now.

The tail however did not hold. I was concerned that the lite ply might not warp like balsa will. It did warp, but didn't hold. I think the only other option is to use some flying wires on the tail to get it aligned properly.

Chris

Chris,
I read the other post.
You saturated the wood and left it for 14 hours.
I build canoes and Kayaks and many times I had to wet and reset the braces.
You can get that straight if you do the same thing again but wait untill in just slightly damp then heat it good with a blow dryer.
You need to stress the strands in the wood more then you need to get the thing straight.
(HOT WATER) is the key to a good reverse warp.
Then use the heat when it's damp to get it super BONE DRY.
Keep me posted

Thanks for your suggestion Vegas. It worked perfectly.

I have done this many times but never thought to use hot water and a hair dryer. Of course it worked much faster than just waiting for it to be dry. I also was not sure it could be done with plywood. In fact it didn't hold at all with cold water and just letting it dry. The tail is near perfect now after using your tips. Thank you!

Glad it worked out for you.
You wouldn't want me to build a house for you but I did spend years building wooden canoes and kayaks.
I learned real fast that very hot water allows the strands in the wood pull farther with no fractures.
Drying it bone dry will allow it to take a set.
Remember when your working with thin wood like this you can feel a lot of heat on the other side when using a heat gun but you can still have moisture in the pores of the wood so make sure it's *BONE* DRY*
Have fun flying the plane