Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Glad you like her, Beej.

I have several planes in this size range and I use the following combination with no problems: 2000 Hydrimax NiMh pack, Futaba S3305s (rudder/elevator/nose steer) and HiTec HS325s for ailerons/flaps.

Couple of caveats: I always charge the morning before flying and always check voltage before each flight.

Based on more than a few years experience, MHO is that many of the battery "problems" we hear about come from lack of proper maintenance.

"A battery is like a bank account. You gotta put back in what you take out." (My auto trade school electrical instructor) and "Recharge at every opportunity" (from a major battery manufacturer's website)

Here's mine with the Tru Turn Ultimate wide slot spinner. That plastic POS H9 included was the worst sort of joke. They're going to keep practicing that nonsense until a customer gets seriously injured or killed by their cost reduction measures. Maybe then they'll wise up.

drube

A friend of mine that I fly with crashed his 2nd xt 60 and gave both planes to me...lol One plane is a gonner while the otherisn't too bad. I was able to use parts from both to make a good one and just finished it last night. I read alot of the pages in this thread and learned some great info. I will be doing the Hatch mod with the rubber band when I get one. All I need is a new Cowl and a Hatch.
Anyone have a Hatch they could part with? I also put a wanted ad on the Market Place. I'll be running a 91 surpass or an Enya 60 lll.

Thanks

STOKEY

My Feedback: (1)

I am putting together a new H9 Pulse 60. I mounted my Saito 100 inverted, and having problems getting it to run well. It was mounted on my last plane upright and run like a swiss watch. So now going to change and mount either sideways or straight up. It doesnt like running "upsidedown". My question is. I have about 2" of prop clearance when level for lift off. I am using a 15-8 master airscrew prop which has worked very well and given great performance on my last planes the motor was in. I would like to try a 3 blade prop on the PULSE 60 to maybe get more ground clearance, but I do not what size 3 blade prop would be equivelant to my 15-8. Can someone help me with the conversion numbers??? Thanks much to any help and or advice.
STOKEY

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Stokey:

14x7 MAS 3 blade is almost identical in loading to a 15x8 two blade. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAA40&P=7

Before you swap your engine to upright, a couple of questions:

Where is the centerline of the tank in relation to the needle valve, and did you try adjusting the low speed needle?

SkidMan

My Feedback: (17)

I've got a Saito 100 in my Pulse and love it. Plenty of power and and great flying plane.

I'm currently flying it with a 15-8 and I've got to be careful about not mowing too much grass with the prop on take off. Ioriginally flew it with a 14-8 and it was just fine with that as well. Ihave a second Pulse that I put a NGHGT17 gas engine in and I put the 3-blade prop on it. Three blades are not as efficient as two blades but if you need ground clearance it is a great way to go.

OKon Saito 100 inverted or upright:My Pulse has that big 100 cylinder sticking straight up. My Miss America P51 has it inverted. I never had any problems with it inverted but I'm sure that having both the low and high needle valves properly set is critical.


Paul

Beej

RIP Pulse XT 60. Very sad to report that after 40 flights my pulse slammed into the ground nose in at significant speed - took a while to dig the engine out of the turf. Not pilot error but elevator flutter at 60% power (Saito 100) in level flight. Not certain of the sequence of events but my flight buddies claim they heard the flutter - certainly I saw the right side elevator detach and float down shortly before the death dive. Right side horizontal stab completely destroyed in the air - left side intact.

So, now I'm in two minds - I love the plane and my first reaction is to get another but I've lost confidence in the design - seems a few people here have had a similar experience and I'm beginning to wonder if there isnt a basic design flaw in the aircraft empennage. It's very flimsy, even compared to cheap ARFs (which this isnt!). Comments?

I wonder whether H9/Horizon people read these threads?

cheers,

Beej

SportsFans

Yup been there done that! Sorry you also lost a great airplane. Same with mine a few members stated they heard a flutter also, but they never said anything until the stab folded and ripped entirely away and came floating down 15sec after the impact The members must of been struck speechless bound by the beauty of flight and fashiions of this marvel...ya right! At any rate I was so devistated thought total lost I went home an ordered the 125 XT already had a NIB OS 120ax, but while waiting for that order to come in I started looking at the 60 XT all smashed to H_ll on my work bench and realized that the fus was still good, but the firewall needed rebuilding. I just had to purchase the stab and vertical (glad I didn't glue them on) and cowl (70 bucks shipped). Same engine and engine mount (tapped), and everyting lined up perfectly. I did seal the bottom (taped) of the elevators to the stab to elminate the flutter after re-CA-ing hinges. Everyone at the field can't beleive it's the same Pulse, you can't tell it ever nosed in even with the cowl off. What I'm trying to say here is it might not be a total loss. If it is a loss and you do go down this road again there is steps to take to make it not so flimsy. Oh my original stab was never really flat and the elevators weren't even either, and I stepped on it lightly accidently on my maiden so it was damned from the beginning. So you have to have a healthy Stab. I've been flying flawlessly since. Also the 125 XT comes now with the seales elevator and stab but not the 60 XT?? This airplne is a must for me. I would attach some pix but don't have my camera right here.....ok enough

Steve

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I think we're learning that this is not a high speed aircraft. I've got mine propped for less than 50 mph max with an unlimited vertical, and it is very happy.

SportsFans

What prop you using? And yes I try not to go to fast with it. Mines seems to be happy with a OS 65AX and a MS 13x6, but I here the best prop is the 13x5 I have yet to try.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I'm using a 15x5 Zinger wood, on an OS 75AX. It turns only about 8800 RPM, which works out to a little over 40 mph and gobs of thrust. On the down line at almost any throttle setting, it acts like an air brake and the speed increases very little.

Beej

Hi MF,

I understand what you're saying but let me then raise the possibility then that this is not an airworthy design - that is, it is not safe when operated within the recommended parameters. My Xt 60 was powered by a Saito 100 (a recommended engine), on 14 x 8 prop, 15% nitro pulling around 9200rpm. It was not a Rossi 60 on a pipe! There had been no hard landings, jamming the tail against a door carrying it through the house etc etc. The plane disintegrated (left H-stab) in level flight at around 70% throttle, downwind for landing. I am a careful flyer I always range check, battery check, test all of the linkages, hinges etc before and after each session. I have been using the XT 60 to practice a basic IMAC (2011) routine where the emphasis is to be smooth and graceful, not strenuous. Now, I know as much as every RC flyer that **** happens but there are a number of people here who tell a similar tale of destruction due to flutter, one post even recommended adding struts. It doesnt have to happen to everybody (or even more than 1 of 2%) for an airframe to be unsafe, just more than you might expect under normal operating circumstances.

If the XT 60 was a real aircraft would it be grounded pending modifications? If it were a car would it be recalled? My bet would be yes. I dont think you can really have an airplane that is "safe" only when you use a particular prop on a recommended engine. There has to be more safety envelope than that.

This isn't meant to be a rant - just hopefully a dispassionate review of the facts and trends in this forum. It may be just the grief talking! I may buy another one anyway (and put on some struts) - It sure is beautiful, and a dream to fly...

cheers,

Beej

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Oh, I agree with you, Beej. It's really, really light for it's size, and I don't think it can handle the stresses of going 70 mph, even for a short time period. That's what your 14x8 @ 9200 works out to.

This thing reminds me of my old 4*60. It didn't like going fast, either, but the tail feathers were a little stronger.

I thought about adding some struts to mine when I first got it, but the process would be very tedious- there's not a lot of places to put nuts and bolts on back there. I'll definitely keep and eye on it.

I have a friend who's been in this hobby for a very long time, and he puts wire tail struts on everything he flies.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I haven't been very impressed with this bird's rolling ability. At the rearmost recommended CG, 3-3/4", she's carrying a substantial amount of up elevator trim, and is very nose heavy in rolls.

Today I moved the CG back to 4", about 31% of MAC. Rolls are much nicer, tho I still have to give a touch of down elevator when inverted.

Has anyone else tried moving the CG any further back? I'm thinking about going another 1/4", which would be about 33%. I think it would be ok, as at the current CG there are no signs of tail heaviness and the pitch sensitivity has not changed.

MercerAUST

I don't think you will ever get perfect rolls even with the CoG way back - there is just too much wing. Having said this, you can induce a fast spinning roll with aerillon and rudder combo  (about 3 rolls per 2 seconds) where the rolls are very axial, but I think the stress on the airframe would be fairly high. I haven't got the nerve to go much beyond 10-15 rolls at this speed. This plane really loves the rudder - the more you use the rudder, the better your manouveres.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I've been thinking about this all summer. I had these Fly Baby floats (built from RCM plans) for a long time after the original plane was destroyed (4*60). They were easy to build, and very durable as I glassed them completely using epoxy. Heavy glass on the bottoms, and the lighter stuff everyplace else. I don't think they cost $25 to build, not counting the plans price. Much cheaper than the ARF stuff.

I had two unemployed, 60 size main landing struts on the shelf that were just about identical in layout. Voila. Floats on the Pulse, installed the same way as on the 25E version. (The front strut replaces the standard main one, and the rear strut is held on by the wing bolts.) Took most of the afternoon, working non stop, as I had to make some adapters out of 3/4 square aluminum tubing.

The ply ventral fin is glued to a piece of ply that is held on with the same nuts that hold the tail feathers on.

I don't have a water rudder at this point (my last floater didn't have one, either) and hope I don't need it. If I do, it won't be difficult to stick it on the back of the ventral fin and couple it to the air rudder.

The best part was that when I balanced the 4*60 with these floats, I put about 2 oz of lead in the bow of each one. It was still there, sealed in epoxy, and turned out to be perfect for this airplane- with the ventral fin in place, the CG is still right on 4" from the LE.

This setup adds exactly two pounds to the RTF weight. (9.8 vs 7.8 for the land version) That keeps the wing loading at just over 25 oz per square foot, very good for a converted land bird. The CG is just slightly ahead of the steps, perfect for a floater.

I'll post the test flight results ASAP. Won't be for awhile, tho, as the wind is going to blow all day and all night for at least the next three nights, so the lake will probably be too bouncy. I likely have to wait for the cooler fall weather before this infernal wind stops.

MercerAUST

That is a surprising good looking float build combination. I say surprising to me, because I would not have thought it a pretty picture.  I hope it performs at least as half as well as it looks!

Spoofer

Just throwing in my experience with the Pulse 60 XT.

I have been flying mine since May of 2008 (posted on page 5 of this thread). I have the Saito 100 and a 14 X 8 prop on it. I have had zero problems with it. The plane flies great and has never had a hick up. I use nylon bolts in the landing gear and have tore them off twice, but no damage. I run it wide open a good bit of the time. Its tacking in the 9K range. It has a lot of torque, but I wouldn't say its super fast. I have done full speed cuban eights, full speed loops, split S etc, but not dives, so I cant say on that....

Again, not discounting anyone's else's troubles, but I have been flying mine for a long while now with the Satio 100 and no failures.


Its a great plane, but not a speed demon. My pulse 40 flies fast/quick while the 60 is a more graceful and smooth flight.

Beej

yep - no doubt "most" people dont have a problem. In my first post ever on this form I noted that the elevator halves on mine were not flat - offset by a few degrees from each other. I note from the post of SportsFans that he also had a slightly misaligned elevator. Maybe the secret is that if the elevator/stab are not flat out of the box - dont fly it - return and get a new one!

Beej

Spoofer

You know Beej, you saying that reminded me that way back I did have a misalignment in my elevator. I even asked for advice in fixing it. (see above quote) Funny thing is, that I just ordered a replacement and never fixed the original. The original is on the top shelf in my garage still in plastic. That could have saved me, how ironic!

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I think mine was a bit twisted, too. I just untwisted it.

Anyway, on to the seaplane conversion test flight results: it flies as well off water as off land, and there was no need for a water rudder. This morning was windy and cold, but not much of a chop on the lake, so away I went. Quickest seaplane take off I've ever done, maybe 25 feet on the water before liftoff. The only trim change was elevator: from +36 to +48 on the 6EX screen.

Lots of punch left for playing: I did one great big loop from level flight, and then landed as a storm was moving in.

I highly recommend it to any of you seaplane guys, or anyone who's not flown seaplanes and wants to. There are some good ARF floats out there as well as kits and plans. Mine are probably smaller than what is recommended, but are more than adequate, and the smaller the better in this game. The dimensions are: 36" OAL; maximum beam (at the steps) 4"; maximum depth (at the steps) 4". There's not much float at all extending beyond the prop, but even in the chop this morning it was no problem. Full up elevator when taxiing or starting takeoff keeps the prop well out of the water. Tower's 40 size kit would work fine: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ928&P=7 I wouldn't use their 40-60 size ARF floats, though, too big and too heavy (over 3 pounds). A pair of these for the struts will work great: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ924&P=0 It is necessary to bend the aft strut in the middle so it will conform to the wing dihedral.

The closeup shows the mounting scheme using 3/4" square aluminum tubing: the Fly Baby design has a pair of 1/2' ply blocks epoxied into the top of each float, and I just screwed the aluminum onto those. Holes drilled through the sides of the aluminum accept the axles from the conventional landing gear struts.

I don't know if the extra fin area of the ventral is required or not, but don't want to take chances on that. The critical thing when installing floats is to check the CG, and put whatever lead is required on the bows of the floats to get it back where it belongs. That way, the CG stays cool when the floats are removed and the wheels put back on.

Also, the CG needs to be slightly behind the steps, up to about 1/4". You'll get lots of debate on that, but I've had eight sea planes, they were all set up like that, and they all handled great on the water.

Finally, with the tops of the floats leveled with a bubble gauge, don't drill the rear holes for the axles until the wing incidence (compared to the floats) is checked. It needs to be about 2 degrees positive wing compared to 0 degrees float. This makes takeoffs a non event. Anything else causes problems. (It's necessary to draw the wing chord line on the tip to measure this. On the Pulse, it goes from the forward most part of the LE to the center of the TE.)


I'll post this in the seaplane section, as well. Haven't checked to see if anyone else has tried it.

You're right, Spoofer, she's a smooth flier.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

This is by far one of the two best seaplanes I've ever had. The floats actually improve the aerobatic abilities, I aint lyin.

If you're thinking about one, don't hesitate.

airdave5

My Feedback: (5)

I lost my hatch too. put a hatch release back by the mag's it good to go. but i will tell you, if you break a wing on the pulse you will pay almost twice what it's cost for the 125 pulse wing ! hangar 9 sucks!!!!!! for pricing the parts for the pulse 60 and almost all of the parts are more then 125 size check it out!

SportsFans

I have both the 60 & the 125, and I can second your statement comments, and what's up with quality control on these replacement parts. It seems that these replacement parts are the parts that didn't make the cut for the full kit??

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Beej,

Were you using the CA hinges? Two things you should have on your Pulse 60, the first is pin hinges instead of the cursed CA hinges, which everybody knows I consider to be a built-in expiration date, and flying wires in the back. You don't need anything fancy to have flying wires, for something like this bird I just get the Kevlar wires and glue them in place with CA. Keeps the tail feathers where they belong, and the pin hinges keep the elevators where they belong. Also, you can use your judiciously applied flying wires to help straighten imperfect horizontal stabs to some degree. Flex - glue - kick it - viola!

It the important little details that keep a good plane flying well.

Jim

hidaven

Can you please explain a little further with regards to installing kevlar wires??
Where exactly do you install them and what do they do?

Thanks, Dave