PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

No problem, Dave.

I'm sure you can find the locations shown somewhere around here. Tail feather wires typically consist of two diamonds when viewed from the front or rear. The 'front' diamond starts at a 'common hole' just in front of the very bottom and rear of the fin, say 1/4-inch up and 1/4-inch in.. Then you run it out to the front of the horizontal stab, usually from a 1/3 to a 1/2 of the way out, then up to about a 1/4-inch inside the top front of the fin, and then down to the other side of the horizontal stab, and then run it down to the 'common hole' again. The reason I say 'common hole' is because from there you continue out and up and around again, only this time making a diamond going up and around the REAR of the horizontal stab and fin, finishing at the same 'common hole' again. Now, the common hole needs to be a bit larger because of all the lines going through it. The rest of the holes, just having one wire run through each, can use a very small hole, probably no larger than 1/16".

Make sure they're good and taut. The best way to do this is to start by gluing the first starter in to the common hole, but make sure you don't plug the hole, you'll need it! The go out, up and around, making sure they all have some tension on them, but not real tight. Once you get all the way around twice and make sure both diamonds are taut, then glue the end of the wire into the common hole.

Once that is good and dry, look at your horizontal stabs and fin. if one of them needs a little "convincing," you can flex it one way and then place a few drops in the wire hole and kick it. That can help straighten a surface out some. Now, Kevlar will stretch over time, so once you've gotten things where you want them, soak some thin CA into the kevlar wire. You'll see it relax a little just from the CA, but that'll be the last time it moves.

Remember, flying wires don't necessarily have to be screaming tight. Their job is to hold the surfaces in their approximate positions, where flutter and other forces can't get them moving and shear them off. Even a loose flying wire is way better than no flying wire.

It's simple. The top of the diamond-loop holds the surfaces in their relative positions. The bottom of the loop holds the surfaces down onto the airframe, so they can't pull off. I know a few guys who just added the wires on top. When the tail separated, the whole assembly was nice and square as it fluttered separately to earth. Ouch.

hidaven

Oh Ok, tail stabilizer wires....lol I have them on my H9 1/4 scale cub. Honestly, i thought they were for looks....lol
-Dave

PS, now im re thinking of adding them to the pulse 60 as I have a electric setup on 6s that is 92 amps 2170 watts. 94mph in a slight dive then straight. Plane moves for such a draggy wing.
Easiest gentle plane i have flown to date. VERY predictable and lands better than my simulator. A GREAT forst bigger plane.

energyman

My Feedback: (2)

Ihad a similiar event, but I was luckier in thatI was able to maintain control and land. I was overpowered using a Saito 115 and APC 15x8. Full power was used only for verticals in recognition of the light nature of the plane and power available. The elevator failed during the snap roll portion of an avalanche. When new, the elevator joiner was loose in one of the elevator halves and I did add epoxy for reinforcement.

After the failure, I installed flying wires and 1/32ply plates for backing the area on both elevator halves where the horn attaches and the wire joiner is located,which solved the problem. However, it did not solve the problem of the AR500 receiverfailing to listen to the transmitter. It did more damage than I cared to repair again. I called Horizon, andwas toldthat if I would return the plane and receiver they would examine and consider replacement, but I had alreadygiven the plane to a friend who is now flying it. He poweredit with an Evo 61, JettStream muffler, and APC 11x7, so far with no problems, and he flys a lot at full throttle. He did not re-install the flying wires but did reinforce the elevator and stab. Sorry, I don't have any pictures of the wires. Enclosed are pictures of the elevator failure.

Danny

Homer712

My Feedback: (17)

What a GREAT hobby! I've read all 34 pages on the Pulse XT 60 and I must say I picked up at least one good suggestion per page. Just picked up my Pulse a couple of weeks ago but sadly, flying season is pretty much over here on the East Coast so I won't get to put her in the air for a few months. Some of the posts that caught my attention were the ones regarding the hatch cover flying off. While there were a number of simple solutions I was not completely convinced they addressed the problem. Seemed to me that the hatch flying off was not the problem but a result of the fuel tank sliding back. Stop the fuel tank from sliding back and the hatch issue goes away. The way the fuel tank positions makes the solution fairly simple. Slide a thin strip of ply (I actually used a Popsicle stick) between the two formers that are just a hair behind the back end of the fuel tank, a drop of CA at both ends, and presto, no tank movement. I actually used a couple of small screws at each end so that I could remove the tank if needed. Maybe an over-engineered solution, but it worked for me and I thought maybe others would like it as well.

Again, thanks to all who posted here. I'm always learning, which for me, is part of the hobby.

Henry

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Henry:

You're absolutely right about the hatch issue. My tank is in the bottom of the fuse (because I inverted the engine) and I have had no problem at all with the hatch coming off.

The other thing to be careful of is that you don't inadvertently slide the hatch forward, out of the magnet sockets, while starting the engine. Easy to do, as it's the natural place to hold onto the airplane while pushing to the rear with the starter.

MercerAUST

I just reread these posts. I've been on holidays for a month and had some good flights on my Pulse, but it was windy (no one else was flying) and fell short of the runway when I dead sticked after deliberately running it out of fuel (to stop having to run the engine on the ground to empty - it takes about 10 minutes with the FG-14). Anyway, I ripped off the undercarraige.

I think I will look at strengthening the elevator while the plane has some down time. Like many, my elevator stabs are not perfectly matched as a result from me dropping the plane when I was building it (yes, I was pretty pissed off at my own clumsiness). No problems so far, but my plane is propped for torque to pull it around manouveres and probably maxes out at about 40mph. Nevertheless, at a very minimum, I think I will tape both sides off the elevator join to the stab to minimise flutter risks (although there are the end bits that don't line up with the stab and probably contribute to the flutter tendancy - perhaps the design here should be reviewed as suggested in an earlier post).

Homer712

My Feedback: (17)

I'd like to know if others have run into this issue. I purchased a "lightly used" Magnum 91 4-stroke here at RCU (great engine/great transaction by the way) to put into my Pulse 60. Also spent $60+ at Tru-Turn (great folks) for a spinner (anyone know where this is heading?). Well, it turns out that the Magnum seems to have a pretty short shaft, and by the time you put the Tru-Turn spinner back plate on the shaft, an APC 14x6 prop, the original Magnum prop washer and nut, there's no shaft left for the jam nut adapter that holds the spinner cone in place. Tru-Turn seems to have a solution, which they are shipping me, but it involves modifying the APC prop in some way. Wondering if I should just do away with the spinner and fly without it.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, the Maggie's have short shafts. I had an aluminum spinner on a Sig 4*60 with my Mag 91 FS, and ended up doing away with the inner nut, and using only the spinner cone nut. It was fine as long as I periodically checked it for tightness. The one time when I let it go, it kicked the whole mess off in the grass. NBD.

That shaft is so short, I don't think there's any modification that will give you enough threads on the end of it to get both nuts on there.

I just now dragged my ancient Mag 91 4S off the shelf and tried it with different spinner backplates. Doesn't matter if it's Tru Turn with their really thick plate, or the Dave Brown. Shaft isn't long enough. One of the reasons I buy only OS engines now

Just tighten that sucker real good.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Tru-Turn has a short lock-nut setup, I've used them a number of times. I don't use the original nut that comes with the engine at all. Call Tru-Turn and they can usually solve anything that comes up.

Jim

Reson7

My Feedback: (4)

Need some help, I have the TRU2502B120 spinner, and the TRU0823 adapter kit, Im not sure where to put the silver piece that is in the adapter kit photo, and Im wondering If I need to use any of the other pieces that came with just the spinner, other than the spinner, backplate and screw, my understanding is to use the 4 items included in the adapter kit along with the backplate, spinner and screw, and discard any other pieces that came with just the spinner, please correct me if Im wrong, Im also using an APC 14x8 prop
Also, I need some tips as to how to cut the cowl properly, Im using a Saito 100GK , Ive never cut a cowl before, I do have a Dremel, but there are no templates with the Pulse as to how to cut the cowl, any tips on this would also be highly appreciated, thanks

Homer712

My Feedback: (17)

Swagg, if the large round washer that goes up against the prop fits your engine's shaft "as is" you can disregard the silver insert. If your engine shaft is smaller than the hole in the large round washer and it fits but can be moved from side to side, push the insert into the washer and then mount the pair up against the prop.

As for cutting out the cowl, we've all ruined a few, but you get better at it with time. What I do is get some thin cardboard (like the back of a pad of paper), tape it to the plane fuselage and take an educated guess on where to start with the large opening for the engine body (this is just a starting point). Leave this in place and then mount the engine. Expand the cutout in the cardboard to better fit around the engine body, also expand the cutout to include the high speed needle, access to the fuel line, etc. At this point the cutouts in the cardboard will be pretty ragged, but like I said, it's just a starting point. Leave the cardboard in place, remove the engine and slide the cowl in place. Transfer the cutout to the cowl with a marker and cut the opening out with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Once that's done, you can start "rounding out" and expanding the cutout with a Dremel sanding drum and it'll really start looking professional pretty quickly Good luck.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Jeez, guys.

The silver (aluminum) piece is the adaptor bushing that goes inside the spinner back plate so that it will fit the engine crankshaft. All Tru Turn backplates have the same size hole bored in them, so different bushings are used to make them fit the crankshaft. (8mm in this case)

There's a shoulder on the back of the small nut that fits inside the washer to center it as you tighten everything down.

Tru Turn's specs on that kit for the 150/180 Saitos also says you MUST have the back plate bored to fit the engine's drive hub.

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...adaptprecision

Are you putting a Saito 1.50 on a Pulse 60? If so, I don't think it's gonna work. It's way too heavy for one thing, and these airplanes are notoriously nose heavy as it is. For another, that engine turns a 16x8 prop at 8,800 RPM. I'm using a 15x5 on mine with a 75AX, and anything larger than that would be scraping the ground at liftoff. You could go with a smaller diameter prop, but then you'd have to crank up the pitch to keep the engine from overevving, and that means you'll be getting into the "do not exceed" speed range of the Pulse, which appears to be around 40 mph. Anything faster than that and you risk tearing the tail off in manuevers. The 1.50 would be a good engine for the Pulse 125, not the 60. IMHO

Reson7

My Feedback: (4)

Im using the 100GK not 150

Homer712

My Feedback: (17)

I'm flying my Pulse 60 with a Magnum 91, 4-cycle. Takes off beautifully at 2/3 throttle, then I throttle back to 1/2 throttle and just cruise (I guess I'm what they call an "intermediate" pilot) slowly around the perimeter of the field. You're going to love it. Great plane!

STOKEY

My Feedback: (1)

I am finishing putting together a pulse 60 and almost ready to test fly. I mounted a Saito 100 with a non stock tuned muffler. I had to add 1 oz. of weight to the front screwed to the firewall just under the motor mount. Was necessary to get the plane to be just a touch nose heavy. I too used used a cardboard for template. I mounted the top hatch, and the cowel without a motor to establish a center line and the back line of the cowel. then removed the cowel and taped it to the plane on the center line and the back line of the cowel. I did however, use a cut-off bit shaped like a drill bit for dremel tool, but mounted it in my drill press. then finished up with small dia. sanding drum either on the drill press or a dremel tool. came out really good but was a long very slooowww process so as not to make a mistake. Only cutting a little at a time until it would fit. I have destroyed more than one cowel trying to get them to fit a motor. take your time and you will do fine.
stokey

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Swagg:

I didn't realize the 100 had an 8mm shaft. The 100 should be ideal. If you can run a 15x5 or 15x6 prop on that, you'll love the performance. The Pulse flies slow and with lots of thrust will do just about anything you ask of it. The 15x5 is best, unfortunately the only ones available are wood, but that's what I've been using and it's great.

I found out through lots of experimenting that the CG needs to be about 1/4" to the rear of the rearmost recommended point. Otherwise, the plane is nose heavy to the point of being unflyable. Even with the CG way back, it still carries about 3/16" up elevator trim for level flight. I had to cut a hole in the covering back by the tail and put my 2000 pack in there to get it to balance. (With a 75AX) It still wants to drop the nose so quickly during aileron rolls that I'm thinking of putting some more weight in the tail.

Good flyer, land or sea.

Reson7

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the tips guys, I got the plane in september 2010, I had everything I needed to get it ready to fly, just never got around to it, finally all thats left is to cut the cowl, put on the prop and spinner, and break-in the engine, hopefully by next weekend it'll be in the air

airborne14830

I am putting together a pulse XT60 with a Satio 100 turning a 14x8 prop. After installing the engine i see that i have misaligned the engine and it is cocked to the right adding more right thrust. Would this be a problem during flight or should i buy a new mount and redo? Also, during the break-in period i am only turning 8200 rpms at full throttle, and I am using OMEGA 15% fuel and on the low end she idles nicely at 2800- 29000 rpms, should I be concern about the high end rpms?

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

airborne:

8200 with that prop is kinda fast, about 62mph, and not a whole lot of thrust. (only around 8 pounds). I'd use a 15x6. It is almost the identical loading to the 14x8, and will give you a much more comfortable 47 mph and over 10 pounds.

I'm turning a 15x5 @ 8700 on mine, with a .75AX, and that produces almost identical speed/thrust numbers to your 4S @ 8200 with a 15x6. More than enough speed and a great vertical.

BTW: I set my CG at 1/4" aft of the recommended rearmost point, and ground handling is impeccable, with no noseover tendencies. Contrary to what you may have read here, there is no need to alter the landing gear to get good ground handling. H9 was WAY conservative on their CG recommendations, and even at the one I'm using, I still have to carry significant up elevator trim for level flight. The bird is as stable as they get, and will recover from a spin by just relaxing the controls.

I did end up sticking the battery pack way back near the tailwheel, as this model tends to come out noseheavy.

airborne14830

mustang,

I did balalnce my plane at 4 inches with it being slightly tail heavy. one of my other concerns is the engine is slightly pointing to the right and i was wondering if it would fly alright or would i need to redo this and to straighten out the engine?

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I just looked at mine, and there is a fair amount of right thrust built into the firewall. I guess if you can get the cowl to line up with the spinner OK, it shouldn't be too much.

I didn't use the cheap plastic spinner that came with it, as after I cut it enough to fit my prop, there wasn't much left. Ended up with an aluminum one.

drube

Anyone have a hatch laying around?

SkidMan

My Feedback: (17)

I'm actually surprised we don't hear from more people looking for those hatches.

paof

Hi please help: how instalo rcgf 15cc engine información my pulse 60.
Thanks

8.point.roll

Hi everyone!  I am new to this thread.  I am wondering if some people can relate to me some Do's & Don'ts for the build w/ a Saito 100 GK.