aramsdell

Eclipse3g[/b], Look on the bottom of your wing panel, in-line with the wing-tube and 277mm out from the inner end of the wing. You will most likely find a tiny hole in the covering. That is the pilot-hole for drilling through the wing-tube and top side of wing. I foolishly pushed a piece of wire up through it. I am going to cover the tiny hole on top and maybe add another thumbscrew inside up near the wing tube or some other way to assure a real secure install.

alan

SJNason

Here is the link to the manual on Horizons site


[link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Files/SEA2125-Manual.pdf[/link]

Page 20 shows drilling a 5 mm diameter hole down thru the wing and using either a 3x50mm or an M4x60mm bolt down thru the wing the directions show different size bolts in the graphics the acutal size bolt that came with my kit is the 60mm


Ground handling was very good (I have flown cubs a bit so I am used to short wheel base planes with large wing spans) Take offs were uneventful I rolled on the power evenly and let it build speed before pulling back on the elevator. It tracked straight and showed no tendency to torque roll on take off

aramsdell

One of my clubmates was having difficulty taking off with his large Cub last summer. He let me fly it and ...hey. No ground-loop. My solution has always been to accelerate for a short distance with full up elev. holding the tailwheel down to maintain straight ahead. Let off the elev and let the tailrise and finish building up speed to takeoff. Gotta watchout you don't just takeoff early and tip-stall it in though. I think the problem is partially that with the long wide wings and short coupled tail, any yaw is not easily overcome and we use lots of counter rudder . That gets it yawing the other way... The weather-vane action of actual airspeed vs. prop-wash (which is always pointing straight back) begins to hold the plane straight as it accelerates.

Got my motor back today. I'll let you all know how it flies on an RCGF 15CC. Cute little bugger. I'm thinking scale aerobatics here.

eclipse3g

My Feedback: (5)

Thx to everyone for
info about wing-tube bolts, Decathlon manual link and takeoff tips. I think those M4 bolts are kind of stoppers which don’t allow to push a main aluminum joint too dip into the tube and break a wing structure. I decided not to use those bolts which I’ve never seen on any other ARFs

SJNason

the pilot holes for the M4 bolts are inboard of the end of the wing tube so they don't appear to be intended as a stop for the wing tubes.
the only purpose I could see for them was too keep the wing from sliding out off the wing tube in the event of a failure of the 1/4 by 20 nylon bolts.
If there is an other purpose I would love to know.
As an added thought the wing struts would also aid in retaining a wing in case of a failure of the nylon bolts truly seams overkill to put in those ugly bolts down threw the wing.

aramsdell

I'm mounting my engine now. Those of you who are already flying, what amount of right and down thrust did you use relative to the firewall??

SJNason

I just bolted to the firewall with no adjustment for right thrust or down thrust. When I flew it last thursday it was spot on for downthrust but I didnt get to flight test for right thrust as there was an error in my elevator setup that needed to be corrected first.
I was hoping to get in some flights on Saturday to test if we need a washer or 2 for right thrust but unfortunatly the clear area for takeoff that I thought I saw was not so clear and I managed to clip a 4 inch chunk of ice on take off and removed the landing gear, so I will be anouther week before I can get in some flights to check for right thrust.

The only damage was to the landing gear block itself and I just need to build a new one. I got all the pieces cut out and holes for the blind nuts done but I was out of 30 min epoxy so another trip to the LHS is in order. Next time I am going to take the time to walk the entire take off\landing zone, its to easy to miss some thing left behind by the Ice fisherman.

aramsdell

Thanks SJNason, I think , unless someone else chimes in here, that I will go with a couple degrees right and I'll go with the firewall on the downthrust.

SJNason

aramsdell, I am currious how well that 15cc will haul this baby around. please be sure to post how it works out. I have an "In the bones" Stinson Reliant SR5 that needs a motor and I want to go gas and get away from glow fuels. That engine is the one i think I may go with. The bird was designed for a 60 to 90 2 stroke glow.

AJsToyz

I just bolted my engine to fire wall and went for it, it flew fine. The 30cc on this bird is a bonus.

Andy

aramsdell

Thanks for the reply AJs. I have already put in about 2 and 2 for right and down. We'll see. Regarding your signature line 'Got Electric?' This will be electric for the NEAT Fair in September in New York. The Swap should be relatively painless. I mad a 1/4" birch-ply plate that the motor standoffs bolt to. That in turn is bolted to the firewall with 8-32 threaded rod with Nylon spacers.

Has anyone found the plane to be weak structurally with a gasser onboard? This is my first so I don't know if it will shake anything like my Magnum .91 4S. I don't think anything could shake like that! I will go over the glue joints I can see with either CA or thinned epoxy.

I spent a couple hours on the Cowl last night. Getting closer to that day. SLow going but I will post about the 15CC'c grunt or lack thereof.

SkyPilot101

I had a RCGF-20 in mine and it was marginal!

aramsdell

What prop did you use? I bought an RCGF 15X7 with the motor. I don't imagine getting much performance out of it. It looks like it was carved with a spoke-shave. It's thick and wide and HEAVY. Something with a nice airfoil would probably do well for me. The RCGF really looks like a couple of sanded,thick, boards.

SkyPilot101

Zinger 16/6 prop, there are better choices! Mine was in a 120 size also, I'm in the process of changing it out to a dle-20 hoping for a little more zip! I think you have the 90 size, the 15cc engine should do pretty good on that size, around 1 to 1 power to weight for the rcgf 15 on the 90 and 20 on the 120 size. Balance your prop, the blades & hub, to help eliminate vibration.

AJsToyz

I like the plug it in and fly it of electric, can't beat it. I still like gas engines for larger planes. Matbe I'll try a large electric one time to see how it goes.

Andy

aramsdell

I have the 1.20 size. 78.7" Super D. The 15 or a 16" prop looks good on it. I'm definately not expecting a hot rod.

AJsToyz. You'll like large electrics. I have a Yak 54 on 10S 4000 and 5000 packs. Hobbypartz Monster 1.60 and it'll spin a 21" prop if I want. 20 x 8 for good performance. 20X10 and it's a rocket. Heavy though. It's a Nitroplanes and was meant for gas. The power system wieghs around 4 .5 lbs. On the 20 x 10 it pushes over 3000 watts. 2650 on the 20 x 8.

aramsdell

This plane has been reviewed with a G20 in it and performed quite well.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...0EI#quickSpecs
The RCGF 15CC here http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...7&pid=E1624721
The G20 spins a 15 x 6 @ 9500.
The 15cc 15 x 8 @ 8000 rpm .
The RCGF actually has a higher pitch speed. the G20 only has 89% of the RCGF's 64000 inches per minute vs. 57000 for the G20.

I know the efficiency of the slower prop might be lower, or not.


I am thinking I'll at least get the same performance as the G20.

Time will tell.

I am getting closer each evening. Last night I did a bang-up job on the cowl. One of my finer jobs. I have to tighten the muffler screw after it's on but no problem. Tonight I made a choke linkage coming straight forward so I can reach in the cooling hole and open/close it. The throttle I finished too.

Next up: kill switch and external on/off for ignition.

ec121

My Feedback: (2)

I used a CRRC26V2 on mine. Power is great. Fit the cowl with only the VVRC pitts muffler pipes showing plus a hole for the velocity stack and spark plug. Engine isn't terribly obvious. Not unlimited but plenty of power for a very tall hammerhead, large loops, and good takeoff climbout. Don't really need more. Motor isn't totaly broken in, and I haven't played with the props yet. Should get better. 16x8 Zinger for now until the weather warms some.

aramsdell

A quick trip across the scales is looking like 11.7 lbs wtih 10 oz. fuel. 25.7 oz/sq ft . I don't know how the watts / lb formula works in relation to gas engines but..... 1.54 kw and 11.7 lbs = 131 w/lb. In electric terms pretty good sport performance. Not 3D by any means.
My 72" Yak 54 is about 232 w/lb......10S 5000pack,3200Watts.


Guys, What are your all-up weights and engines used??



Me 15CC RCGF and 11.7lbs(ish) Not flown yet. Motor will get started soon.

CAT POwer

My Feedback: (61)

lrglnman, 

lrglnman

Hey, sry i havent posted lately, father is in real bad shape and i have not got to work on the plane in 2 months. I got just about 2 or 3 hours worth or work left to go and ill pretty much have the plane ready to test. But until things with dad gets resolved., the plane has been placed on the back burner.

aramsdell

SkyPilot, You had an RCGF 20 in your? Was that the earlier version? I was at an auction today in New Hampshire and there was an RCGF 20 CC used. It went for over a 100 bucks. It was HEAVY. Looked to be an earlier version. Lots of aluminum, Big plug. I bet it weighed like a 50 cc. I wouldn't bid on it because of that.

SkyPilot101

It's about a year old, rear carb, the plug is bushed to take the smaller CM-6 type plug. The engine, ignition, & muffler goes 39 oz.

CAT POwer

My Feedback: (61)

James ,

aramsdell

This is the one I saw. It's discontinued. Note the angled plug. http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...9&pid=D2418806