By the way has anyone made a measurement on the CG at the wing root. When I set mine to the rear of the wing tube it was very tail heavy during the first flight. It measured 5 3/4 inches. The picture shows right side up for balance. I didn't try it inverted.

Yeah it would be good to know the correct c of g position for this aircraft, as I've got my 73" on the way soon and I don't want to end up with a badly tail heavy Sbach situation on its maiden flight!

Thanks again fellas!

at the wing tube is fine for starters, at the aft end of the wing tube is the recommended

I think the 2300 will hover it at least with the right prop the one I flew (from cheif not that it makes a diffrence) had a 160 fx and hovered at about 2/3 with strong pull out, not balistic but strong.

I received my kit from TBM today and all I can say is wow, wow, very nice and also received dle 30.

I have paid more money for planes and gotten a lot less. This is an impressive plane for the bucks$ Never have I gotten an ARF that came with servo horns. Even the wheels are high quality.Aluminum hubs with bronze bushings, who else does that. My so called premium Aeroworks Yak has plastic wheels. Once I got the balance in order the plane is a dream to fly. I ordered the 50 cc size from Cheif today. Now I can't wait for that one. This is quickly becoming the hottest plane out there.

RPool,
Would you mind showing a couple of pictures of how you mounted the Syssa engine?  I'm using the Syssa also and noticed the top engine mount just barely clears the top of the engine box.  What length standsoffs did you use?  I think I need around 1 5/8".  Does that sound about right?  One more thing.  My plane came with a couple of pieces of aluminum angle to reinforce the engine box.  Did you use them?
Thanks,
Doug
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Doug, I did not use them ORIGINALLY because of the existing triangle stock already in place. I believe the orginal prop to firewall distance was 5.2". The bad thing was getting to the needles on the carb...almost directly in the firewall. I have since moved the firewall back about an inch and now evrything clears the wall. Much simpler! I did a good job of notching, glueing, bracing, and screwing the modified box together, but I also ended up using angle stock to wrap around the outside of the firewall. I screwed the part attaching to the sides of the box, with the remainder wrapping around the front. That part was also screwed into place. That firewall will never pull out! You are right about the top standoff being a tight fit. I simply notched the original box so the base of the standoff could extend past the edge. It presented no problem.

Update...I've added pictures. You'll notice that I have used a metal plate intended to cover an open electrical box between the wooden firewall and my standoffs. (I painted it black.) It has a thin rubber material behind it against the firewall. I thought I could kill 2 birds with one stone by adding needed weight and stiffening my mounting surface with a vibration reducing subsurface at the same time. I have no idea how it will work yet...may go flying today. I did it because I came up a bit tail heavy; rolled inverted and she would climb. (dang ignition battery eliminating circuit! I love it / hate it. Love the ignition switch on transmitter, but need the battery weight to balance.)

RPool,
I'll go work on that engine box tonight after work. Thanks for the info.
Doug
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Thanks for the pictures. They help alot. I was going to call Todd at Syssa about a firewall back plate he makes to help reinforce the mounting of the engine. I just heard about this in the Syssa thread. I was wondering about being tail heavy. I took this engine out of an Aeroworks Yak 90-120that came out tail heavy also. I was hoping this one wouldn't be quite as bad. I've ben using the BEC also. Love it other than the weight thing that you mentioned. Thanks again for your help.
Doug

Did the same thing as you... got mine on Monday. I may start putting it together this sunday. What standoffs did you use for your DLE 30 (V2 I'm assuming). Any pictures of your engine mount... just trying to get an idea on how to mount mine since the plane was made for the original DLE 30.
Thanks!

I'm in the same position here Keemos, would be great to know how you mounted your DLE 30V2 Skysfallin! And of course any pictures would be great!

so how is the mounting of the dle going??? want to see this too as i am getting one soon

Guys, I mounted the V2 with the supplied standoffs and it ended up with a 1/16 gap at the cowl and looks great. Drill the premarked holes and bolt it on. Every one asks me how I got such a good mounting and gap. I tell them with a lot of patience. Just bolt it on and go. If you would like some pics I will take them.

I'm sure we would all be very appreciative of some pictures of your engine install Skysafallin I know I defiantly would, could you please tell me the length of the standoff's your using? Did you have to open up the hole on the firewall to clear the carb? If so did the needle's clear the firewall? And the last question is did you have to alter the cowl mounting position's as supplied from the Pilot RC factory to accommodate the DLE 30V2 in any way?

Many thanks again!

I'm not sure that the DLE30 v2 will fit without mod to the engine mount box...

I've got the original DLE 30 standoffs that came with the V1 (My 30 is a converted V1) And ill personally happily use these as long as the needle's don't end up inline with the firewall, Do you think they will Keemos, if the carb was to be moved back into the motor box?

Hopefully Skysafallin will put some pictures up to tell us how he got such a good fit.

i hear there is some aluminum angle and triangle ply and a couple larger pices of ply ? did you use this kemos, thanks Bob

Flyjunkie and Keemos I will take pics tonight and post. But Im telling you I had to make NO modifications to anything on the engine install. I used the supplied engine standoffs that come with the DLE V2. Drilled the premarked holes in the fire wall and bolted it on. You have to clearance the tri stock on the back side of the fire wall for the bolts and washers to fit. The only other thing I did, that I do to all planes, is add tri stock in any corner that I can put it. No other mods what soever. This is a well thought out plane. I can't wait now for the 50cc to get here.

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: 9pt">Bob... not sure how to use them yet. Don't want to hack away on the engine box blindly... I&rsquo;m sure someone here have done it before and can share there experience.</span></div>

my guess by looking at them they look like they may go in the holes of the box on the side? since ther eall triangle or maybe corners of the box?

Here are the pics of the engine install. Sorry for the crummy pics my camera is a POS.

Some more pics

Keemos, I now see the confusion. Your motor box is about 3/4 in longer than mine. Your pic shows approx 4 1/4" and mine is 3 1/2". I couldn't understand why you couldn't just bolt on your motor like I did. When did you get your plane. I think it must have been made for the version 1 of the DLE30. That engine is shorter with the side carb. You can move the firewall back 3/4". A pain in the butt but not terrible. If You do I would use aluminum angle on the front side since you will have to cut the tenons on the firewall ply. Don't forget to keep your right thrust angle thats made on the firewall. Or cut a hole and put the carb inside the motor box and use shorter standoffs. My personal choice. Needles will be inside the box but you should still be able to drill a hole in the cowl to adjust. I just lucked out and got a later version plane, I think.

Skysfallin… thanks for posting the pictures!<span>  </span>That cleared a lot of the confusion.<span>  </span>I didn’t know that there is a newer version from Pilot.<span>  </span>Make sense since the original DLE30 (side carb) was discontinued.<span>  </span>Looks like using shorter standoff is the way to go… downside is that the carb needles will be inline with the firewall.<span>  </span>I may go this route unless someone can show how to move the firewall.  Again... thanks! </p>