RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

I tried turning the rudder servo around and the linkages still hit. I just cut off some of the arm and I think I have enough for the high and low recommended throws but I'd have to do something completely different if i wanted 3D throws. I'll start off on low rates, progressivelly move to high rates and if I think the thing will 3D, then and only then will I do something to change the setup. Thanks for the suggestion.

RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

Funny, I'm using HITEC 5625's in mine. Set up per instructions and using the blue arms and mine do not touch. Plane has also been sitting on the garage floor and no problems with the wheels.

RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

Hey there,
I'm also using the blue anodized arms. I did move my servos though...
My wheels are holding mine up with no problems,the tailwheel get a little flat after a few days..
Later,
Frank

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

I just in the process of building one. I want to add smoke, going to use the Zenoah 62 with slimline muffler. Can this motor/muffler be hard or soft mounted. Any suggestions re placement of tank for smoke and suggestions appreciated.

art

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

Hey There,
Slimline recommends not to soft mount with their muffler. The motor shakes and the muffler does'nt keep up with it and the welds break. I think the plane shakes more with soft mounts anyway.
Put the smoke tank and the smoke pump as close to the CG as possible so the CG won't change as it emptys. Im putting mine in soon.
Hope it helps,
Frank:D

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

xtraflyr - I wasn't aware that Slimline discouraged this, but the reasons you state are the reasons why I don't use soft mounts. I'm still fairly new to gas engines, but it just made sense to me that mounting on soft mounts would only exaggerate vibration concerns. You would think this would dampen vibration, which seems sort of rational, but it doesn't seem to work out this way from what I have read about and observed. On my Pitts I mounted a 24 oz Dubro tank for smoke with 2/3 of the tank forward of the CG and 1/3 over and behind the CG.

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

irwina:

You do not want to soft mount any gas engine. In my many years of RC I have only seen one gas engine soft mounted and the only reason it worked was the soft mount was specially made for the engine and cost more than the engine itself! There are many reasons as to why you shouldn't soft mount a gasser, but the biggest is vibration.

RE: RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

Hi Irwana
you can buy a very good smooth System for your ZG 62.
I use it since 6 years and it will work very fine .
Look in Google for Practical Scale .
Greetings from Germany
Ulf

RE: RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

OK sorry if this has been answered already, but I have a NIB ZDZ 40 rotary valve engine I would like to use. Is this a good engine for this plane? I have the Pitts Muffler that is tapped for smoke oil so thats why I like this engine/muffler combo.

What if any standoffs and what else to mount this engine properly. Also, does anyone know how this muffler will fit properly with the cowl, etc.

thanks for any info on this particular set up. I still didn't receive the CEII yet but will be here soon. thanks!! The CEII is a beauty!!

RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

I turned my elevator servos around. I have just enough clearance for the medium size servo arms that come with the Hitec HS-5475s. It is also the same size as the heavy-duty arms you can get from Dubro.

RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

Jim, nice clean solid and secure set-up. Glad you got this one worked out. Did a nice job. Those socket head screws sure are nice to work with, aren't they.

RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

The only servo screw I use PERIOD!!!!

Know anyone who needs hundreds of OMP servo screws?

RE: GP <span class=
 

No, use the fuji on a warbird!

RE: GP <span class=
 

I changed my rudder to a pull pull setup and used springs for the tailwheel steering.Feels much more precise now in flight .

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

edgetorker,
Got any pics? of your pull-pull?

Dave

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

here's one pic.I used the sullivan super rudder horn,part number s568.I had some cable left over from another project .You could also use the dubro pull-pull setup which includes everything.Since there was no hardwood block where the rudder horn mounts,I took a piece of 3/8 dowel,cut it to the proper length,drilled a hole through the center and epoxied it in.Then I took the stock control horn and dremeled off the horn so I had the two mounting plates and then drilled through those.From there,just cut the rod to the same length on both sides that the stock horn was,used a couple pieces of lite ply for a servo tray and moutned the servo under the wing bolt plate.All told I think it took me less then one hour.

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

oh,and I used a couple of nuts to secure the rod in place.

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

I had the same problem with mine. When I contacted GP they sujested that I cut the wing in half and ship it back for a replacement.
I just went ahead and filled in thed gap,covered it over and vowed to check the fit on things before glueing. The fit on the ailerons was pretty bad also. When the trailing edge was alligned there was a 1/8 inch gap at the LE.

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

I expereinced the aileron misalign also...

These are the kind of things I would expect to show up in a real review

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

Roger on the "Real Review". I take it you saw the abridged manual instructions, called a review, that was in Model Airplane News.

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

Yup,
I guess my other problem is the wing servos aren't in a hatch. Not a clean install in my book. Phew! finally got that off my chest. Its an ok arf but hasn't been my favorite. Maybe I'll like it in the air better.

RE: RE: Elevator/Rudder Servo Arms
 

Im with you on that,RCJONES,
THe problems I had with it did'nt make it my favorite either....
It looks beautilful when it's finished. I flew mine and it needed almost full downtrim to fly.. I'll need to check my incidence again.. Should'nt have to, should be right,right out of the box.. Oh well it looks pretty and it's snaps are scary fun!!! With the DA 50 it ripps..
Later
Frank

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

I just finished my Eagle with a Zenoa G-62. I've ground tested it and other than at idle (when Zenoas shake like a beast) it seams to be a very sturdy birdie. As far as flying, haven't maidened yet. If anyone else is using this combo I'ld like to hear of any unfriendly characteristics i might encounter with the added weight and power. (Oh, and I'm going to cure the shakes with a C&H ignition very very soon).

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

swmoheli - On my Pitts it's a handful on takeoff to get it straight unless you have a good bit of experience with BIPES and short fuse airplanes. Will need good rudder and throttle control to avoid ground-looping. Takes off kind of like a Cub, but with much more power. Some will say it's nothing to be concerned about, just go fly the airplane. I think this trivializes a potential issue that you at least need to be aware of. Just be prepared. This is not a point and rip airplane on takeoff.

Watch for a DS, so go high until you have confidence in your engine. It's amazing how much power you have at idle vs. no engine at all. I have had one DS that I caused and was shocked at how the plane dropped like a rock. I was at 100' and had virtually no elevator response. I let the elevators go to neutral, which was hard to do and thought it was just going to go in. At the last second I pulled back just enough to get the nose up for a successful grass landing. This was downwind as well. No damage and very lucky.

Land with about 2 clicks throttle and then cut when inches above the runway, or you will get into bouncing dance. Here is a thread that may be helpful if you haven't read already.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Land...1854989/tm.htm

RE: GP CHRISTEN EAGLE
 

Just mounted my bottom wing to the fuse. The wing would not rotate down on to the saddle so I extended the dowel holes about a 1/4" toward the belly to allow the dowels to rotate. The wing sits in the saddle now but the belly pan is too tall. I assume the incidence is correct since the wing sits flush on the saddle but I haven't checked it with a meter yet. Has anyone else had this problem?

Chuck