I just wanted to make sure I do this right. I have a Heli battery it is a 10 cell batt. On the battery is stamped
Fullymax fbc6a21
Ni-MH 44AAA 650mAH p 12.0v
On the ac/dc adaptor is
Output: DC15v 400mA

So on my display I have
NiMH 10cell 600mAH???? the battery said 650 so could I use 700 or is it safer to use 600 because you can not select 650.
chg current: 0.4A ?? I think this is right.
dchg current:???
peak sens: ???
dchg volt:???
trickle curr:???
cut-off temp: ???
no. of cycles: ???
cycle delay:???
cycle mode:???
max chg capa:???
peak delay:???
top-off chg:???

Thanks for any help on this. If you have any insight on how to best figure out these values please let me know.

The manual offers a detailed explanation of each setting and what it does. You have the first two correct.

dchg current:??? anything up to the max current capability of the battery.
peak sens: ??? 0 or 3 mv
dchg volt:??? 8-10 volts or even lower depending upon how equal the pack is.
trickle curr:??? 0
cut-off temp: ??? 100 or 30 over ambiant up to 130 max.
no. of cycles: ??? any
cycle delay:??? any
cycle mode:??? either mode
max chg capa:??? 100% (if you set capacity to 600 then set max to 110) using slow rate will require this to be higher
peak delay:??? any value up to the minimum time required for full charge (or set to 1-5 minutes)
top-off chg:??? 0

dchg volt:??? 8-10 volts or even lower depending upon how equal the pack is.
How can I tell if the pack is equal or not?

dchg current:??? anything up to the max current capability of the battery.
how do you find the max current capability of the battery?



Thanks

The pack equalisation can be checked by monitoring each individual cell, or a known matched pack that has been equalised will be quite equal. If it's a stick pack with loose cells then just use 8-10 volts.

The manufacturuer should list the max discharge current. Or have to be tested.

Ok I just do not get it. I do not mean to sound rude but I am just a precise type of person. I just want to make sure I do this right. The way the manual reads is like 5 is ok or you could use 157 just as well it works the same. It just seams sort of vague sometimes. Like on the discharge cutoff voltage the manual says you could us .8 or .9V or sometimes you could use 1.1V and if you want you could use any ware from .1 to 1.1V. That is eleven different choices to chose from. So do you just pick a # out of a hat and call that good or is there a rhyme or reason for picking a voltage. As I stated this is a 10 cell pack of AAA battery sealed with shrink wrap so I can not test each battery without cutting it up. the ICE manual refers to the battery ratings from the manufacturers I have no clue who makes the battery and it did not come with any data sheet with technical info. Sorry about being a pain in the *****. I am new to this and I just want to understand how to do this and not burn my house down. Thanks

The problem with these fancy chargers are to many options. First if this is the first time set charge at C/10 or in your case min 0.1 A set max capacity at 700mAH set delta max “peak sens� 15mV.This will formation charge your new batteries. If you bought a temp probe set at 120 deg F this lower than you need. Discharge at C/5 for first 2 cycles again min 0.1A per cell 0.9V discharge Volts. ,,Trickle OFF =0,, cycle 1 first until used for a while,, mode D to C,, delay 15 min is typ,, peak delay 5 minute.

Press button select cycle press again. Do this 2 to 3 cycles take of couple days write down the discharge cap. to save, at 80% cap. next year check if batteries are going bad. Now you can change to setting to fast peak charge. Current to 0.5 A and peak sens at 3 to 5mV and charge after using battery after 10 or so recharges you can just push cycle and to check pack out and keep in top condition.
Rich ……..hope that this helps some.

double post

I didn't take your questions as rude at all, I hoped I wasn't sounding rude or evasive giving vague answers when you wanted specifics. Being precise is good. I didn't have enough time to give long answers so if we take specific questions one at a time it'll be cool. Most of the answers (sounding smart alec) to most of the settings are "set them at whatever you want" depending upon what you want to accomplish.One thing is easy, you have 1 specific charger and 1 specific battery.

Good advise above.

I think that on the discharge cut-off voltage and the discharge current settings I'd like to ask what is the purpose of the discharge?

I know that AA batts vary a lot and most of them can handle a couple of amp discharge. Your AAA may be able to handle just 2 or 3 amps, but can be discharged at any rate up to that depending on why you want to discharge. On the cut-off voltage each cell can go down to 0 volts so if you were doing a single cell then .1 would be ok, but since they are all in series and there's 10 of them it is risky to pull them down to much lower than .8 per cell because the weakest cell or the cell that runs down first will be reversed voltaged because it is in series with all the rest of them (9 of them could be 1 volt and 1 could be negative voltage and you would not know it)

NiMH 10cell 600mAH???? the battery said 650 so could I use 700 or is it safer to use 600 because you can not select 650.
chg current: 0.4A ?? I think this is right.
dchg current:???
peak sens: ???
dchg volt:???
trickle curr:???
cut-off temp: ???
no. of cycles: ???
cycle delay:???
cycle mode:???
max chg capa:???
peak delay:???
top-off chg:???


I'll take another whack at it so that you can decide your own settings and why to set them

mah is used as a safety to prevent overcharged multiplied by the max charge % so if using a relatively efficient rate (1C) then the total can be right at 100 % of battery capacity. I like to start with a completely dead battery, set this value very high and then from then on you know what the max capacity actually is and can set the value to that figure. Your 650 may take anywhere from 600-800 when charged fast, but when charged slower (more loss) then it could read over 1000mah.

Charge current for nimh is usually 1C max for small batts, but not always some AA charge at 4C (go figure) I think for your application I would regularly charge at .6 amps and keep watch on batt temp. If it's getting over 120 then reduce rate, if it stays very cool then you can increase rate.

Peak sensitivity for tiny nimh batts is 3 mv and you should experiment with the zero peak setting (I wish there was 1 and 2 mv setting)

Cut-off temp can be 120 deg F in summer and 100 in winter.

Number of cycles is however many you want to examine and cycle delay is designed to allow the battery to cool down and stabilise voltage between cycles. On a very aggressive discharge and/or charge cycle a delay of over 10 minutes is in order, on a very gentle discharge and charge just a minute is enough.

Peak delay is a setting that "cancels" the peak detection for the beginning of the charge so the voltage will smooth out and 3-5 minutes is adequate in most all batts. New or very old or ones that sat a long time would need more delay.

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/

http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/

http://www.buchmann.ca/faq.asp

Three links with lots of info if you're a reader.

[/quote]

I think that on the discharge cut-off voltage and the discharge current settings I'd like to ask what is the purpose of the discharge?

I know that AA batts vary a lot and most of them can handle a couple of amp discharge. Your AAA may be able to handle just 2 or 3 amps, but can be discharged at any rate up to that depending on why you want to discharge. On the cut-off voltage each cell can go down to 0 volts so if you were doing a single cell then .1 would be ok, but since they are all in series and there's 10 of them it is risky to pull them down to much lower than .8 per cell because the weakest cell or the cell that runs down first will be reversed voltaged because it is in series with all the rest of them (9 of them could be 1 volt and 1 could be negative voltage and you would not know it)
[/quote]

You askin me ?

0.9 V is best to form an test capacityat C/5. Remember the ICE is per cell so .9 x 10 cells is 9V.........

Rich

Yes, I was asking why you would want to do a discharge. Sounds like you have your two settings.

9 volts or .9 rather and current setting of 130 ma. That sounds about right for a capacity test, and there's an industry standard, I do not know what it is. The batts can probably handle 1 amp or so. I'm also curiuos how long does the heli fly? This will give us the average current.

Hey thanks for all of the great info. No you where not rude at all I am just clueless on this type of stuff. I am a mechanic at a golf course and I can tune a 2 stroke trimmer like nobodys business but when it comes to eletric stuff I am just retarded. I have a walkera 35 heli and I have put about $50.00 into parts and I have still not gotten the stupid thing off the ground[] to a hover and I was just hoping I wont break the batterys also. on and on. Thanks anyway for the info.

Yea, it still seems kinda vague, I know but it is all dependant on all the other variables. I'm sure you will quickly become an expert.