Hey I'm just starting to do my own soldering and I'm having a problem tinning the deans connector. I'm using the 60/40 rosin core solder but it is just beading up on the deans connector and not sticking. I'm not sure what the issue is. I've watched the youtube videos and this does not happen in the video of course. Any suggestions would be helpful.
thanks

try putting some rosin flux on the connector this will let the solder flow better, Myself I heat the opposite side of the connector then touch the other side with solder being careful not to over heat the connector.

You need to use soldering flux as well. Even though you may be using a flux cored solder, it just isn't enough. You can get it at Radio Shack or any store that sells soldering tools.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

What are you using for a soldering iron??

Gord.

Another issue is the size of your soldering iron.... If you are using an old 'woodburner' type iron at 20W, it can't heat up the joint fast enough. The heat migrates down the contact and into the wire. Hotter is better (not too hot though).

Here are a couple of other tips....

1. Everything must be absolutely clean, including the tip of the iron. Anything less is just wishful thinking. Keep a slightly damp (not wet) sponge or paper towel nearby to wipe the tip on. It should always be shiny. If the tin plate on the connectors is dull, hit it with a clean eraser (and also use a little bit of flux, as was recommended by Hemikiller. But go easy on it. If the wire is not shiny, scrape it down with the blade of a knife (but be careful).
2. Put a tiny blob of solder on the tip of your iron, then put your tip on the junction of the contact and wire ONLY to transfer the heat faster. Then, solder as usual.
3. If you have a mating connector, put it on. The reason is that if you are new to soldering, you may apply heat for too long (until you get the hang of things). Too much heat might soften the insulator and the contacts might drift. The mating connector will keep them in line.

I've laid a fair amount of lead in my day. Just my $.02

Bob

Hey Guys thanks for the suggestions I went all out and bought a circuitspdigital display soldering station http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7508 and a soldering jig http://www.stlcustomhobbies.com/Products.html so I'm ready to do some aggressive soldering I did get the flux when I picked up the solder at Radio shack. I'm gonna try it again.

The right equipment always makes all the difference. It wasn't you as much as the equipment. Also one of those "third hands" with the magnifying glass really helps a lot too. But, you may not be as old as I am either.

Would I be correct in presuming that the digital readout on that iron is in Celsius? If so, try soldering at 400 - 425C. Or, if it's in Farenheit, try using between 750 and 800F.

Use a broad, flat tip and resist the urge to 'jiggle the wires' until you are absolutely sure that the joint has cooled down to where the solder has solidified.

Just another $.02.

Bob

One other important hint... get a power strip and plug the iron and your work lamp into it. Always shut your work lamp off with the power strip switch... that way you know that the soldering iron is off too.

Please don't ask how I came up with this tip.....

Bob

Use a dab of Oatey 30374 No. 95 Tinning Flux on the Deans connector prior to heating. You will find it at the hardware store.


Stan

Never, ever use acid flux for plumbing on electrical work
I use Oatey #95 for all my plumbing work, but never on electrical work.
Pete

'Never, ever' had any trouble with it in 30+ years of use. We are not talking about a circuit board here.

Stan

No flux is needed, at least, I have never had the need of it. Just get the iron at a high temperature and heat up the deans connector. One of the replies said to heat up the bottom side first, that could help. Then add solder and let it flow, then make a blob. After that fill up the wire with lot's of solder and then connect the two.

Thats how I do it, A good iron really helps.

But we were talking about soldering electrical connections. Without qualifying your suggestion, a newcomer to soldering could easily interpret it to mean that acid paste is OK for soldering electrical connections, which it absolutely is not. Try using acid flux to solder 26g servo leads and see how long it takes for the wire to corrode away. A couple of months at most.
Pete

I use the trusty old Weller soldering gun for the Deans. Just heat it up till the flux starts smoking and it's good to go.

Gord.

Even better... ditch Deans and go with Anderson PowerPoles... can be wired up in the time it takes the solder gun to heat up. Have standardized all my connectors with powerpoles and have never looked back... so much easier... a good solid connection to boot..

Hey Guys,
I'm very thankful for all the useful tips and I think we sparked a interesting discussion. I think the problem I was having was 2 fold. Iron not hot enough and also the connector was not hot so it when the hot solder was contacting the connector it was not flowing. I just completed a new deans connectorfor a peak charger so I'm about to shrink wrap and charge a batt.
For a newbie R/C'er like myself tips like this are most welcome.
thanks again,
daniel</p>

never solder servo,battery wires always crimp them.

When using solder and flux you need to clean the flux off the joint or it will corrode and break. there are chemical sprays and brushes for this.

Good luck crimping a Deans connector
Use rosin core solder and corrosion will nor be a problem. If you want to clean up the flux, just brush off with alcohol.
I first flew an E-powered sailplane back in '88, started using power poles at that time, always soldered, never crimped. The battery will be toast before the solder joint will ever fail
Pete

I have been soldering battery and sevo connectors for over 30 years with a little 15 watt "pencil" iron and small aircraft grade solder. Not one problem with hundreds of soldered connections ever.

What are anderson power poles? and what do they look like?

The Anderson Power Poles are also known as Sermos connectors. They can carry more current than a Deans but they are longer and a bit bulkier.

To get the best out of them, it's best to crimp the ends with a good crimper instead of mashing them with pliers.

Bob

Here is a jig that I make at home on my Cnc. It is made from t6 so it pulls the heat out of the dean's keeping it from melting.

OOOh, I like that... ingenious. What size pins do you have it sized for???

Bob