decided on the Twist.
#1
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The hangar 9 twist 60. Just took it out of the box. Man I should have this thing ready to fly in about three hours! all the control surfaces are pre hinged, control rods are pre-bent, hardest part will be drilling the holes in the engine mount for the engine. The controls horns are even pre-mounted! It's like to snap tight models I had when I was a kid. I'm dropping in a supre tigre 90. Thing should really punch holes in the sky. Oh yeah and even the fuel tank is completely set up, clunk line, vent tube, fuel lines attached. All I really have to do is install the servos! Too simple!! covering is decent, but alot of wrinkles.
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From: Nottingham,
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ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
Bill, even thought the tank is assembled, give it a good going-over. I've had a few where the internal lines were screwed up
Bill, even thought the tank is assembled, give it a good going-over. I've had a few where the internal lines were screwed up
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ORIGINAL: goirish
Hummmmmm!!!!! I don't think Bill wants me to try it for him. [&o][&o][&o]
Hummmmmm!!!!! I don't think Bill wants me to try it for him. [&o][&o][&o]
to maiden my planes! But you're welcome to visit and fly anything you want to fly. I'm selling the cub and the tuncano. I hate to do it, but need the room in the hangar! See RCU ads
#9
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Take some time looking things over. I have a Twist 150 that the hinges were not glued in well and were working out of the slots in the wing. I got the plane second hand and it had never flown, but it took a bit of work to get it ready. I ended up pinning all of the hinges but the ailerons and those I replaced with Robart Hinge points. It required removing some covering and gluing in some backup balsa for the hinge locations.
The other thing I found was that some of the ply formers were delaminating, espically the one the wing plugs into.
Spend some time to tgive it a close inspection before putting it in the air. It is a fun plane to fly though.
Don
The other thing I found was that some of the ply formers were delaminating, espically the one the wing plugs into.
Spend some time to tgive it a close inspection before putting it in the air. It is a fun plane to fly though.
Don
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From: BONAIRE,
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By all means, pull, twist, turn, stretch, look over completely and don't be shy about adding gussets, and/or triangle stock to beef up engine firewall, or landing gear mounts. When it comes to quickly assemblied ARF's, I don't trust the non-flier who assembles these things for .50 cents/hr.
I do like to keep this saying in mind, "When everything seems to be coming your waychances are you're in the wrong lane."
Best of luck with your Twist!!
I do like to keep this saying in mind, "When everything seems to be coming your waychances are you're in the wrong lane."

Best of luck with your Twist!!
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Yeah, I'm a little dissapointed with the quality of this ARF. I have phoenix and great planes ARF's that are leaps and bounds better. Knew I should've bought the Seagull Yak!!
#14
ORIGINAL: billd76
Yeah, I'm a little dissapointed with the quality of this ARF. I have phoenix and great planes ARF's that are leaps and bounds better. Knew I should've bought the Seagull Yak!!
Yeah, I'm a little dissapointed with the quality of this ARF. I have phoenix and great planes ARF's that are leaps and bounds better. Knew I should've bought the Seagull Yak!!
#15
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Well, got to doing some research and found that it likes to balloon nose up when landing, I found through research that there is no built in down or right thrust. Everyone claims that correcting the thrust took care of the ballooning when landing. I took care of this by swapping out the stock engine mount with a GP mount and adding some washers to give me correct right and down thrust. Mannual makes no mention of this.
Fuse is weak behind the cockpit. everyone recommends beafing that area up with light ply. Recommendations were also made to CA every joint that you can reach.
Also the fire wall, couple of guys had the fire wall come apart in flight.
The tail wheel is not the best either, it can snag and rip off the rudder, recommendations are to replace it with a Dubro tail wheel.
Other than that I think it is not too bad of a plane. I guess I just expected better from hangar nine.
With the ST90 swinging a 14 X4 prop, it will be fun and interesting to fly.
I may have to Kill the engine just to land!!
I'm about 25% over powered.
I have attached a couple of pics that show the engine mounted and the wrinkles/folds in the aileron covering.
Fuse is weak behind the cockpit. everyone recommends beafing that area up with light ply. Recommendations were also made to CA every joint that you can reach.
Also the fire wall, couple of guys had the fire wall come apart in flight.
The tail wheel is not the best either, it can snag and rip off the rudder, recommendations are to replace it with a Dubro tail wheel.
Other than that I think it is not too bad of a plane. I guess I just expected better from hangar nine.
With the ST90 swinging a 14 X4 prop, it will be fun and interesting to fly.
I may have to Kill the engine just to land!!
I'm about 25% over powered. I have attached a couple of pics that show the engine mounted and the wrinkles/folds in the aileron covering.
#16
Most of my 3D'rs tend to balloon up in landings. I don't see that as a problem, just something to get used to.
The more aft C.G. lends itself to this when coupled with the thicker wing airfoils.
I introduced no down or right thrust on mine. I find it doesn't need it, especially if you stand the tail gear a bit more upright.
I did re-inforce the firewall and gear area on mine, as I would do with any ARF.
I also tend to drop about 2-3oz of thin CA into my planes to harden/reinforce areas that I can reach... this helps IMHO.
My Twist's covering was also a bit wrinkled, but that was cured by 15 minutes with a heat gun and covering mitt.
I can't say that the Twist was any worst or better than other Seagull or Great Plane ARF's I've put together. All of this seems usual for most ARFs.
Gorish: Don't be put off by this, it's what you are already used to!
The more aft C.G. lends itself to this when coupled with the thicker wing airfoils.
I introduced no down or right thrust on mine. I find it doesn't need it, especially if you stand the tail gear a bit more upright.
I did re-inforce the firewall and gear area on mine, as I would do with any ARF.
I also tend to drop about 2-3oz of thin CA into my planes to harden/reinforce areas that I can reach... this helps IMHO.
My Twist's covering was also a bit wrinkled, but that was cured by 15 minutes with a heat gun and covering mitt.
I can't say that the Twist was any worst or better than other Seagull or Great Plane ARF's I've put together. All of this seems usual for most ARFs.
Gorish: Don't be put off by this, it's what you are already used to!
#17
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The twist 150 flys about the same as the Pheonix Fun Star, only bigger. A gust of wind can send it airborne in a heart beat. That is just the nature of the beast. It flys great and does what you ask, even if you ask way to much. I about lost it on it's maiden flight because I had the upper limits of Aileron throw set. Your first flights should be with minimum throws and some, maybe a lot of expo. It is very responsive.
My chief complaint is that the wood seems to have a waxy feel. Iwas unable to glue back the delamination on the bulkhead. The glue used seems like a hot glue, very stringy and flexable. I had the lower covering off the wing to re-inforce the TE for the Robart hinges and I found a few loose pieces in the process.The last day I had it out resulted in one of the wing locating dowels pushing back into the wing. Not just the dowl but the ply donut doublers. I'll get a closer look today and send some photos.
A friend has the 150 and he flys the covering off it. He is in the process of putting a gas engine in it now. He hasn't had any of the issues I've run across, so my problems may not be what you should expect.
Don
My chief complaint is that the wood seems to have a waxy feel. Iwas unable to glue back the delamination on the bulkhead. The glue used seems like a hot glue, very stringy and flexable. I had the lower covering off the wing to re-inforce the TE for the Robart hinges and I found a few loose pieces in the process.The last day I had it out resulted in one of the wing locating dowels pushing back into the wing. Not just the dowl but the ply donut doublers. I'll get a closer look today and send some photos.
A friend has the 150 and he flys the covering off it. He is in the process of putting a gas engine in it now. He hasn't had any of the issues I've run across, so my problems may not be what you should expect.
Don
#18
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From: Nottingham,
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ORIGINAL: opjose
Most of my 3D'rs tend to balloon up in landings. I don't see that as a problem, just something to get used to.
The more aft C.G. lends itself to this when coupled with the thicker wing airfoils.
I introduced no down or right thrust on mine. I find it doesn't need it, especially if you stand the tail gear a bit more upright.
I did re-inforce the firewall and gear area on mine, as I would do with any ARF.
I also tend to drop about 2-3oz of thin CA into my planes to harden/reinforce areas that I can reach... this helps IMHO.
My Twist's covering was also a bit wrinkled, but that was cured by 15 minutes with a heat gun and covering mitt.
I can't say that the Twist was any worst or better than other Seagull or Great Plane ARF's I've put together. All of this seems usual for most ARFs.
Gorish: Don't be put off by this, it's what you are already used to!
Most of my 3D'rs tend to balloon up in landings. I don't see that as a problem, just something to get used to.
The more aft C.G. lends itself to this when coupled with the thicker wing airfoils.
I introduced no down or right thrust on mine. I find it doesn't need it, especially if you stand the tail gear a bit more upright.
I did re-inforce the firewall and gear area on mine, as I would do with any ARF.
I also tend to drop about 2-3oz of thin CA into my planes to harden/reinforce areas that I can reach... this helps IMHO.
My Twist's covering was also a bit wrinkled, but that was cured by 15 minutes with a heat gun and covering mitt.
I can't say that the Twist was any worst or better than other Seagull or Great Plane ARF's I've put together. All of this seems usual for most ARFs.
Gorish: Don't be put off by this, it's what you are already used to!
#19

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I had a Goldberg Wildstick 40 back several years ago. It too had a "thick" wing with a short moment between the wing and the horizontal stab.
This thing had flaps, ailerons, elevator, rudder.. the whole works. I had an OS 50 SX that was sitting around gathering dust, so it went on the Wildstick.
It was a blast to fly.. but when coming in for a landing, if I wasn't careful, as soon as I would pull elevator to flare, well, up it would go.. not just bumping up, but climbing for 20 - 30 feet, so I would add power and go around. I finally learned how to bring it in without the ballooning. The flaps were useful only for some pretty wierd "aerobatics" (full flaps and full up elevator and it would loop in pretty much it's own length).
It was indeed wild!!
If the Twist is anything like it, well, it ought to be fun to fly.
This thing had flaps, ailerons, elevator, rudder.. the whole works. I had an OS 50 SX that was sitting around gathering dust, so it went on the Wildstick.
It was a blast to fly.. but when coming in for a landing, if I wasn't careful, as soon as I would pull elevator to flare, well, up it would go.. not just bumping up, but climbing for 20 - 30 feet, so I would add power and go around. I finally learned how to bring it in without the ballooning. The flaps were useful only for some pretty wierd "aerobatics" (full flaps and full up elevator and it would loop in pretty much it's own length).
It was indeed wild!!
If the Twist is anything like it, well, it ought to be fun to fly.
#20
ORIGINAL: billd76
What do think then, should I remove that washers? I love the looks of that plane and think it will be a blast to fly! Gorish go ahead BUY IT!! Come visit, bring it with you and we'll fly the wings off of them. Really can't wait to fly it!!
What do think then, should I remove that washers? I love the looks of that plane and think it will be a blast to fly! Gorish go ahead BUY IT!! Come visit, bring it with you and we'll fly the wings off of them. Really can't wait to fly it!!
I did not add washers nor right thrust.
I bent the tail wheel wire out, so the plane stands more upright on the runway, and added a bit of leftward canter to the wheel so the plane rolls very slightly to the right.
I put each aileron servo on a separate channel and used flaperon mixing.
I set the flaperons to be activated on a TX switch, but I reversed the flaperon direction (not the aileron function though ).
I set the inverted "flap" amount to about 15-20%. This gives me a bit of reflex when I pop the switch. The reflex kills the ballooning tendancy.
But the best part is that I added two other mixes from elevator to flaps, also activated on a three position switch.
When I have the switch at center. I get normal operation.
With the switch down, I get elevator to flap mixing... Up elevator produces up to 80% down flaps. In this position, the plane practically loops in it's own length on a hard pull!
With the switch up, I get elevator to reflex mixing... Up elevator produces up to 80% up flaps. In this position the plane performs fantastic "elevators" in a light breeze or wind.
I also find that reflex mixing seems to help torque rolls and hovering a lot too.
#21
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ORIGINAL: opjose
Here's what I did....
I did not add washers nor right thrust.
I bent the tail wheel wire out, so the plane stands more upright on the runway, and added a bit of leftward canter to the wheel so the plane rolls very slightly to the right.
I put each aileron servo on a separate channel and used flaperon mixing.
I set the flaperons to be activated on a TX switch, but I reversed the flaperon direction (not the aileron function though ).
I set the inverted ''flap'' amount to about 15-20%. This gives me a bit of reflex when I pop the switch. The reflex kills the ballooning tendancy.
But the best part is that I added two other mixes from elevator to flaps, also activated on a three position switch.
When I have the switch at center. I get normal operation.
With the switch down, I get elevator to flap mixing... Up elevator produces up to 80% down flaps. In this position, the plane practically loops in it's own length on a hard pull!
With the switch up, I get elevator to reflex mixing... Up elevator produces up to 80% up flaps. In this position the plane performs fantastic ''elevators'' in a light breeze or wind.
I also find that reflex mixing seems to help torque rolls and hovering a lot too.
ORIGINAL: billd76
What do think then, should I remove that washers? I love the looks of that plane and think it will be a blast to fly! Gorish go ahead BUY IT!! Come visit, bring it with you and we'll fly the wings off of them. Really can't wait to fly it!!
What do think then, should I remove that washers? I love the looks of that plane and think it will be a blast to fly! Gorish go ahead BUY IT!! Come visit, bring it with you and we'll fly the wings off of them. Really can't wait to fly it!!
I did not add washers nor right thrust.
I bent the tail wheel wire out, so the plane stands more upright on the runway, and added a bit of leftward canter to the wheel so the plane rolls very slightly to the right.
I put each aileron servo on a separate channel and used flaperon mixing.
I set the flaperons to be activated on a TX switch, but I reversed the flaperon direction (not the aileron function though ).
I set the inverted ''flap'' amount to about 15-20%. This gives me a bit of reflex when I pop the switch. The reflex kills the ballooning tendancy.
But the best part is that I added two other mixes from elevator to flaps, also activated on a three position switch.
When I have the switch at center. I get normal operation.
With the switch down, I get elevator to flap mixing... Up elevator produces up to 80% down flaps. In this position, the plane practically loops in it's own length on a hard pull!
With the switch up, I get elevator to reflex mixing... Up elevator produces up to 80% up flaps. In this position the plane performs fantastic ''elevators'' in a light breeze or wind.
I also find that reflex mixing seems to help torque rolls and hovering a lot too.
Reversed the direction? So this means that you acutally have spoilerons? Sounds like you leave them activated for the entire flight?
#22
Reflex or Spoilerons... somewhat the same thing.
The "flap" button activates the spoilerons.
The three position switch gives me either the spoilerons (up) or flaperons (down) driven by the elevator, or neither (in the middle position).
I take off with normal operation... flap switch up, three way in normal position...
To perform a super tight loop, I'll flip the three way down, then return it to middle when I am done.
To perform an elevator, I'll flip the three way up, then return it to middle when done.
Just prior to landing, I'll flip the flap switch down, to activate spoilerons.
So most of the time I'm flying with the plane set up normally. The three way is used for tighter stunts... and the flap switch is used for landings with spoilerons.
The "flap" button activates the spoilerons.
The three position switch gives me either the spoilerons (up) or flaperons (down) driven by the elevator, or neither (in the middle position).
I take off with normal operation... flap switch up, three way in normal position...
To perform a super tight loop, I'll flip the three way down, then return it to middle when I am done.
To perform an elevator, I'll flip the three way up, then return it to middle when done.
Just prior to landing, I'll flip the flap switch down, to activate spoilerons.
So most of the time I'm flying with the plane set up normally. The three way is used for tighter stunts... and the flap switch is used for landings with spoilerons.
#23
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ORIGINAL: opjose
Reflex or Spoilerons... somewhat the same thing.
The ''flap'' button activates the spoilerons.
The three position switch gives me either the spoilerons (up) or flaperons (down) driven by the elevator, or neither (in the middle position).
I take off with normal operation... flap switch up, three way in normal position...
To perform a super tight loop, I'll flip the three way down, then return it to middle when I am done.
To perform an elevator, I'll flip the three way up, then return it to middle when done.
Just prior to landing, I'll flip the flap switch down, to activate spoilerons.
So most of the time I'm flying with the plane set up normally. The three way is used for tighter stunts... and the flap switch is used for landings with spoilerons.
Reflex or Spoilerons... somewhat the same thing.
The ''flap'' button activates the spoilerons.
The three position switch gives me either the spoilerons (up) or flaperons (down) driven by the elevator, or neither (in the middle position).
I take off with normal operation... flap switch up, three way in normal position...
To perform a super tight loop, I'll flip the three way down, then return it to middle when I am done.
To perform an elevator, I'll flip the three way up, then return it to middle when done.
Just prior to landing, I'll flip the flap switch down, to activate spoilerons.
So most of the time I'm flying with the plane set up normally. The three way is used for tighter stunts... and the flap switch is used for landings with spoilerons.



