help removing engine
#1
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I have a Hangar 9 p-51 PTS mkII with a the evolution trainer power system and need help with removing the bolts that hold the engine on. im not sure if i have right tool for the job, they are phillip head bolts but there doesnt seem to be enough room to put a socket wrench or a screw driving in there to unscrew the bolts, do i have to take other parts off to get to the bolts????help much appritiated
#3

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In this order remove the following: 1) spinner and prop, 2) unplug fuel and pressure lines, 3) muffler, 4) needle valve, 5) cowl and simulated exhaust stacks, 6) disconnect the throttle linkage, 7) remove the 4 phillips head motor mounting screws. Reverse order to reinstall engine.
#4
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obviously i have the prop spinner and cowl off if i can see the mount bolts,
thanks 52larry52, thats what i was looking for i didnt know if i had to remove the needle valve. i see that the high speed needled valve shares 2 bolts with the backplate to the crack case. it will be okay if i remove these 2 screws without messing things up in the crankcase?
thanks 52larry52, thats what i was looking for i didnt know if i had to remove the needle valve. i see that the high speed needled valve shares 2 bolts with the backplate to the crack case. it will be okay if i remove these 2 screws without messing things up in the crankcase?
#5

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My backplate and needle valve assy are held in with 4 screws, not 2. How are you going to get to them with the engine and cowl in place??? Just take out the needle valve. Gently turn the needle valve all the way in untill it bottoms and count the number of turns so you can reset it right where it is when you reassemble everything. Move the little spring clip out of the way of the small pin on the needle shaft so you can turn it with out the "stop" interfearing. This will keep the "tune" just as it is now. Use a drop of blue Loctite on the engine mounting screws and the muffler bolts when you put it back together. Degrease the oil off the threads before using the Loctite. I would also use blue Loctite on the prop nut.
#7
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the needle valve bracket is attached to the top 2 bolts on the backplate, would i be able to just remove the bracket so the whole needle valve is detatched?
#8
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yes the cowl is off, i removed the muffler and moved the cowl over the carb and played with it until i got it over the needle valve, i may have messed it up a little but i wasnt concerned
i crashed my plane the other day so i have to get a new fuselage and new wings for my p51 : (, might as well through a new cowl on
the field i was flying in was a little small and i missjudged the distance to the far corner and hit the trunk of a large oak tree
i crashed my plane the other day so i have to get a new fuselage and new wings for my p51 : (, might as well through a new cowl on
the field i was flying in was a little small and i missjudged the distance to the far corner and hit the trunk of a large oak tree
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the needle valve on my engine is about half an inch above the needle valve on the screw thats closest to the fuselage on the right if you are looking at the engine from the front
#10
The PTS mount uses a friction plate to hold the engine in place.
Unlike other mounts, the engine is NOT screwed down.
Normally loosening two of the screws on opposite sides of the engine is enough to free the friction plates.
You should not need to remove the remote needle valve assembly at all. At worst merely unscrew the nipple closest to the rear left ( as viewed from the top ) screw.
The muffler however does have to be removed.
Unlike other mounts, the engine is NOT screwed down.
Normally loosening two of the screws on opposite sides of the engine is enough to free the friction plates.
You should not need to remove the remote needle valve assembly at all. At worst merely unscrew the nipple closest to the rear left ( as viewed from the top ) screw.
The muffler however does have to be removed.




