Is it okay to use another motor mount?
It's a O.S. .40 engine as the instructions call for.
But the Mounting holes just dont line up... :\

Happens all the time so yes, it's OK. I would try one of the GP adjustable mounts.

You just made my day with that bit of news.
I thought my very first REAL paycheck would have to go towards another engine. :P
So thank you.
I appreciate it!

The engine mount on the avistar uses two plates toclamp the engine in place. The holes in the motor mount align with the holes in clamping plates.

Jim

It's a great plane. I learned on an Avistar and just set up my 4th one. It's a great one for a relaxing flight or for shooting touch and go's. You'll love it. Let me know if you have any questions about the plane setup.

Uhmmm.....<div>Clamping plates...</div><div>I cant find those....</div><div>That cant be good. :\</div><div>I may just have to go with another mount...</div><div>I'll look again though.</div>

Okay, I really dont want to go with a different mount.<div>I'm sure the parts are around somewhere.</div><div>If not can I buy the plates and screws and bolts at a hardware store?</div>

G'day

I had one of those clamp mounts some years ago and somehow I lost the clamp plates and nuts and bolts so I just drilled some new holes to match the engine mount holes and bolted the engine to the mount in the more conventional way. Is there anything that stops you doing this? It worked for me.

Replacing the mount with a different one will be a bigger job. It is highly unlikely that the new mount will match the holes already in the firewall and you will have to drill new holes in the firewall at the very least. Then there is the fun of getting the new captive nuts inside the firewall.

If it were me, I would just drill the existing mount so long as the spacing between the arms of the mount are suitable for your engine. Then use some 4-40 or 6-36 bolts with some nylock nuts and some flat washers (under the mount and on top of the engine's mounting lugs.

You can get a replacement for the clamp on original easy enough and then you wont have to worry about the blind nuts on the firewall lining up with the new mount.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL208&P=FR

I'd go with Mike's suggestion if you can't find the plates. That's the way we always did it in the past , and in most cases I still do. Enjoy !!! RED

I just finished my Avistar this week. I was confused too but I found out all I had to do was to lay the engine over the metal mount installed and place the 2 bars of metal on top and screw.

I loved it. No need to drill holes or go wrong.

My OS 46LA is the model in the Avistar manual.

If you can't find the plates, you will only need to drill two holes. Bolt the motor down with the front holes and mark then drill the back holes.

I know it's a few extra bucks, but I have to get some stuff off of Tower Hobbies anyways.<div>I'll just get the new motor mount and use the pieces.</div><div>I dont really have much experience with thins kind of stuff.</div><div>I'll take a few more looks around before ordering.</div><div>Thanks for the help.</div><div>
</div><div>Chris</div>

If the parts were missing when you bought the model, Hobbico will probably send them to you for free.
http://www.hobbico.com/contact.html

The 2 little metal plates are inside the small plastic bag that comes with all the other screws.
It's quite possible that you have it and not sure what they are.
It took me a while to understand it too; because I would not think that placing the metal over another metal would be good and stay in place in spite of the constant vibration.

If the holes in the mount align with the holes in the engine tabs why would he need the plates?

Just curious,

Clay

From the original post:
The holes in the metal mount are too far apart to line up with the holes in the engine.

The holes in the metal mount are far apart to line up with the holes in the engine.
So you place the engine in between the holes where the metal is not smooth.
And place the 2 plates that will align with the holes.
I find it unconventional but it works and it's simple.

Carrel, Harry,

My bad. I knew that but for some doggone reason I misrememberd an earlier post and forgot the OP already explained that they did NOT align.

Think I'd get some scrap metal and make my own straps if I couldn't locate the orignals.

Clay

I definately dont have them.<div>I looked up and down.</div><div>But since I've moved twice due to my dads job, I probably lost them.</div><div>I dont feel comfortable modifying the mount when this is my first time building a kit.</div><div>Like I said, I'll probably just order the replacement online.</div><div>Thanks everyone!
</div><div>
</div><div>Chris</div>

I've recently read alot of bad things about the MDS 40 I was going to put on my Avistar.<div>Like the break in period, too high of idle RPM's and too low of Max RPM's.</div><div>Could I put an Enya 45 I have on it?</div><div>If so, how do I clean old engines??</div><div>The throttle wont even move. :P</div>

Suggest you remove the plug & exhaust and needle valve and submerge the engine in a wide-mouth glass jar of model engine fuel or kerosene. I recently did this on an Enya 90-4C with 50/50 kerosene/ATF and let it set for a couple of days. Just jiggle it around a bit to work air out of the case and let'r soak.

When I took it out of the bath the engine turned easily in short order but the throttle barrel was still stuck. I took a screwdriver to the throttle arm retaining screw and to my surprise it turned the barrel before the screw broke loose. Worked it back and forth a bit and it loosened right up.

Shook it out real good, mounted prop, plug, exhaust and mounted it on my test stand. Fueled it, attached glow ignitor and it fired right up and ran just like it was never stuck in the first place. Ran it dry after a couple of tanks, soaked in after-run oil, and wipe'd it down before storing. If this had been done in the first place it probably wouldn't have froze up.

May I also suggest you check out the ASP engines at Hobbyking.com for a reasonable cost alternative.

Regards,

Clay

It can't hurt to give the MDS a chance. Some of them work fine, and some won't run for anything. What happened to the OS you were going to put on?

BTW on the engine mount thing- If there is enough material under the mounting holes you won't hurt anything by drilling holes and mounting the engine directly to the mount. Truthfully, I like that method better. I had one of those strap type mounts on my first trainer and had to tighten it after nearly every outing. The only time I have to put a screwdriver on a normally mounted engine is if I want to take it off.