Hi All,

I picked up a bottle of CA and when Itwisted the cap Ia nice amount on my bare hands. Does anyone know of a way to get off. Ihope I don't have to use anything like a razor? Is there any chemical that can dry it up? Please help

Thanks,

Will

acetone (fingernail polish remover) might do it.

Some day, you can rip it off along with the skin it is bonded to..

Honestly, you have been on RCU since October, 2010 and you havn't put a kit or an arf together... then gotten CA on your fingers? Well, that's part of the RC hazing!!! You HAVE to pry your fingers apart at least once to get past this step in the hazing. Next comes the paddles... oops... sorry, I broke the oath of silence...

I get that on my fingers all the time. After it sets up, I just peel most of it off. I would be carefull trying chemicals to get it off, though. Some chemicals that will work on CA are also somewhat toxic.

I had a tube that I didn't notice, had fallen over and started dripping on my coffee table. Well, the next morning, I had a glob of solid CA on my table that I needed a chisel to get off. So, wipe off as much as you can then, after a while, as I said, you can probably peel off what's left.



CGr.

Whats really cool is when you glue yourself to your airplane.

Jimmy

You can buy a CA remover with acetone and ether. It works.

Tom

As pretty well stated above, acetone, lacquer thinner, dope thinner, (all about same) will do so. Body oil will in due time do same if warm water and strong soap is applied well.

The biggest problem is getting it in an eye. I strongly suggest some kind of safety eye protrctor when using CA. An eye is a very important commodity in the aeromodeler's world. Be very careful.

A funny is when a good modeler does a good building job using CA then spends 2 months putting on a beautiful dope finish and then wonders why parts fall off when flying. Lots of dope thinner seeps in and destroys the building process. Don't ask me how I know that? [&o]

Hi!
The best solution is to use Nitro! Aceton will work too but not as good as nitro.

I use latex gloves when using CA. They are the surgical kind you can get at most Pharmacy's . They come in a box of about 100 ea. The ca will not stick to the gloves. Also you can use CA Debonder. The best I have found is "Build it" at Tower Hobbies for about 5 bucks.

CGRetired,

You forgot to mention the CA that get on your jeans from wiping fingers on them! I don't think I have a pair of jeans that doesn't have at least one CA glue spot...

Also, my wife ALWAYS knows when I've been building, because I end up with CA all over my fingers, and sometimes there are even traces of balsa still stuck as well!

I just consider it the 'brand' of a good day's building.

CGRetired,

You forgot to mention the CA that get on your jeans from wiping fingers on them! I don't think I have a pair of jeans that doesn't have at least one CA glue spot...

Also, my wife ALWAYS knows when I've been building, because I end up with CA all over my fingers, and sometimes there are even traces of balsa still stuck as well!

I just consider it the 'brand' of a good day's building.

Indeed!!!

Good to know I'm not the only one.

I bought a bottle of Mercury thin CA and there were no instructions on how to get the glue out. I butchered the top trying and it's a mess even since.

I use a shop apron when I'm working on my plane so Ihave a convenient place to wipe my fingers.

The brand I use has a nozzle that is very thin. But, there is a slide-over thingie, an applicator tip, that thins it out even more making it needle-like.

So, the thin-CA comes out in drops rather than in gushes. The very thin tube is about two inches long so you can put it in places to apply the CA in very small quantities.. great for CA hinges, in fact, and also for getting into tight places without making a mess.

But, I still manage to get it on my fingers..
CGr.

Acetone or alcohol, actone is quickest.Nitro?? I have never tried it, I almost never have any in my shop these days but I'm sure it would work pretty well.

Gene.. I could use one of my pills... [X(] just kidding.

CGr.

I got several bottles of PARFIX  CA glue and after many attempts to take the pointed cap off I had to use pliers and pull hard.  The next time I tried to open it, well, it's still closed. I think the CA glue now is holding the cap on forever. Pliers with the bottle in a vice wont open it.  ??? Have any others had the same experiance with this brand ?  I still have an unopends bottole I would like to use without getting a hacksaw glued to the bottle when I try that way ???

I tend to use CA Debonder when I get a lot on my fingers. However, a modeler without CA on their hands isn't building enough. It is a right of passage as far as I am concerned.

...and... Like Jimmyzep, I have also glued myself to the plane I was building. ....makes it hard to eat if you do...

if you never gotten ca on your fingers then your likely not building.whats worse is dripping it on a nice shirt and having your wife find it!and then theres bonding it to the wood itself and sometimes it burns likw hell.and the last incident happened so fast I wasnt thinking and grabbed it with my theeth ,talk about ca on your tongue .ugh.so debonder and nail polish remover are always handy. its just one of the prices you pay to enjoy the hobby.

I've always found it peels off of fingers easily by the end of the day.

keep building with ca on hands, after your done building soak hands in soapy water, ca usually peels off rather easily

I just came in from the shop with my nose still burning. {sheeting} I use the same tips that CG showed. I have a small bottle of acetone on the side of my bench and as the tips clog I just remove them and drop them in the acetone to soak. The small amount of CA on my fingers just peeled off using my mark one finger nails. I buy my thin CA in 8 ounce bottles and just keep refilling my two ounce bottle. Just the other day I had the main cap stick and couldn't remove the top. The problem is the CA just fills in the threads so the cap sticks. I used my heat gun on the bottle then strong armed the cap off, soaked the cap and bottle top in acetone and it's good as new. The CA brand makes no difference, they will all stick and clog.
Dick, I have some of those pills on hand too, never thought of using them to wash my hands but what the heck, it's worth a try!!

Well, I very rarely get CA on my finger any longer. Not because I'm not building, but more so because I use mainly wood glue when I build. I save the CA for things that I can't do with wood glue like hardening threads cut in wood and installing CA hinges.

Ken

To add to the posts that mentioned soap and water, it seems to help if I use very warm water, almost to point of being too warm for comfort. I think what is happening with that approach is you are forcing your hands to sweat and loosen the glue from the bottom out. Seems to work for me. +1 to having CA on your hands being a right of passage in model building.

HI
WHEN you get a cut-,apply CA to close and seal the cut ,the CA will fall off as the cut heals
CA is used in surgerys like the liver where stitches cannot be used
there is a VERY SHORT TIME FRAME but if you act fast enough you can whipe the liquid CA off with a paper towel before it has a chance to dry ,if some solidifys on you skin ,it seems to fall off in a short amount of time soap and water help
building for 26 years ,use CA for the majority of my building to make things move along QUICK
good to use TIGHTBOND on sheeting you know will require sanding- ,CA gets a bit difficult to sand out on seams or wood joints -when you want a very smooth balsa surface
years ago we only had slower drying glues-AMBROIDS,DUCO CEMENT ,SIGMENT- ,ELMERS ETC. ( showing my age here ) CA has improve my modeling world FOR SURE-but important to use it with CARE
ENJOY BEST REGARDS TONY

It comes off the fingers much easier than it comes out of your ear.....

Rick