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Satio Question

Old 01-07-2012, 06:04 PM
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mrcoolpop
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Default Satio Question

I just built the You Can Do ARF plane and I put the Satio 100 engine on it. It appears that the fuel tank is too high and the carb is too low. This causes the fuel to constant flow causing it to flood. Other than turning the engine to lift the carb higher is there any other fixes that I can do?

Thanks,
Old 01-07-2012, 07:38 PM
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daveopam
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Default RE: Satio Question

Cline Regulator will fix it, but it's $60.

David
Old 01-07-2012, 08:18 PM
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Gray Beard
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Default RE: Satio Question

It's one of the problems about ARFs. When you ASSEMBEL it your stuck with where they had room or just figured this is a good place for the fuel tank. Not sure how you have the engine mounted but it's one of those things you have to think about when ASSEMBLING. I have been able to get inside the tank area on some ARFs and remove the wood area the tank mounts onto and remove it to lower the tank. Other then that flipping the engine may be your only way.
Old 01-07-2012, 09:04 PM
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mrcoolpop
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Default RE: Satio Question

Where can I get this Cline regulator from? Looked online but nothing is coming up.
Old 01-08-2012, 03:46 AM
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Default RE: Satio Question

http://saito-engines.info/pumps.html

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDG59&P=ML

A Saito engines website with some good information

Tower's website with a regulator available for sale.
Old 01-08-2012, 03:53 AM
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Rudolph Hart
 
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Default RE: Satio Question

GB is on the money.I usually put a rape and pillage carbon steel bit into the dremel and hack out the braces in the middle so you can get your fingers in there and hold the engine mount nuts while you try to line them up and get them threaded.Plus it gives you room to fit whatever tank you like there,no fiddling with fuel lines either.After that i run a light bit glass round the forward bulkheads where i removed the cross bracing on the front formers,sweet as
Old 01-08-2012, 05:27 PM
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Default RE: Satio Question


ORIGINAL: Old Fart

GB is on the money.I usually put a rape and pillage carbon steel bit into the dremel and hack out the braces in the middle so you can get your fingers in there and hold the engine mount nuts while you try to line them up and get them threaded.Plus it gives you room to fit whatever tank you like there,no fiddling with fuel lines either.After that i run a light bit glass round the forward bulkheads where i removed the cross bracing on the front formers,sweet as
That's the first time I have seen it called that. It fits but that's a first. Once the area is opened there are a lot of things you can do in there like angle stock behind the fire wall. I just use foam to get the tank positioned where I want it then pack in more foam to hold it in place. A regulator will work but why not just put the tank where it belongs? It's easy and a bunch cheaper. Kinda one of those no gimmick set ups.
For those of us that still build our planes tank location is one of those considerations we think about before the glue bottle is even opened up. For those that ASSEMBLE an ARF the Rape and Pillage is often the best way to do something.
Another way of doing it is getting a pumped engine. They don't care where you place the tank. The Saitos are great engines but they still don't have a pumper in the line up that I have seen.
Old 01-08-2012, 06:13 PM
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daveopam
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Default RE: Satio Question

I bought my Cline from www.billsroom.com

David
Old 01-08-2012, 08:56 PM
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Default RE: Satio Question

Fuel pinch clips are only four bucks: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNSD1&P=7

K & S clips are good too. 

I agree that getting the carb and tank centerlines sorted should be done first tho.


Old 01-09-2012, 05:39 AM
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mrcoolpop
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Default RE: Satio Question


Not familiar with the clips so couple of question. How exactly are the use and can they be use with the cowl on the airplane?
Old 01-10-2012, 12:50 AM
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Default RE: Satio Question



The fuel line to the carb needs to be exposed for the clips to be easily used. The K & S I use on my helis are a simple, narrow 'V' shape that get pushed on/off, they stay trapped when not in use. No moving parts.

That tank must be pretty high if you're having siphoning problems with a taildragger. Are you gonna fix it? I would.

Oh, if you can, would you correct the subject to 'Saito'?

Old 01-10-2012, 09:33 AM
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daveopam
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Default RE: Satio Question

For those who have never had the UCD. The tank is going to be high no matter. Even with the floor hacked/removed it's just the way it's built.
Old 01-10-2012, 10:43 AM
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Default RE: Satio Question


ORIGINAL: daveopam

For those who have never had the UCD. The tank is going to be high no matter. Even with the floor hacked/removed it's just the way it's built.
This is very true but I have found some of the Sullivan tanks will work. They have some great odd ball shapes and designs. Think of the flat wing tank mounted low and inverted. The UCD is a perfect plane for using the YS or OS pumper engines. The cline regulator works but it's another added cost to the model.
Just food for thought.
Old 01-10-2012, 03:19 PM
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delman
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Default RE: Satio Question

When I had my u-can-do, I looped my carb fuel tubing up and over the engine mount beam then to the carb. The loop is near the top of the fuel level and stopped the siphoning.
Old 01-11-2012, 12:48 PM
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Default RE: Satio Question

Yup.

I have a couple of UCD's ( including the old discontinued Giant Scale one ) that I run with inverted glow.

One runs with a Saito 1.00 with no modifications what-so-ever, including no loop ( which is not a bad idea ).

The Saito comes set up with an almost ridiculously rich low speed setting ( and the engine still runs fine this way! ). This cause fuel to siphon either out or back into the tank fairly quickly.

However once I had the LS properly set siphoning slowed down to a managable slow drip.

All I have to do is keep the throttle fully closed while filling the plane or while it is sitting in the pits.

Once I am ready to start it, I'll open the throttle up and crank the engine over to start WITHOUT priming.

That's it.

The engine runs just fine this way and siphoning is not a major issue.

If anything because you are forced to get the tuning "right" to prevent siphoning, the plane tends to be very reliable and never deadstick.

Check your LS tuning. Do a pinch test.... set the LS needle so that removing the glow driver causes no perceptable change in RPM's, and you'll be in the ball park.




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