So it has has been a couple of months since flying. 6-8 months. I went out yesterday with a BNF Spitfire from PZ just so I didn't have to spend too much time getting the plane setup to fly properly. And it worked, I was able to fly 3 batteries in 1 hr in 47 degree weather. Not much wind so 1 hr it was getting cold. Good thing was no crashes.
But this plane coast at zero throttle a liitle faster than I perfered yesterday. I will try moving the CG back a little as it was a little nose heavy BUT if I was looking at my next plane and wanted a plane that can fly a little slower what do I look for when buying?
Do I look at the wing loading? I am guessing that a lighter load on the wing would allow it to fly slower.
I was good with how the plane was flying but I want to stay in a smaller area. And for my comfoate level I need the plane to coast slower if that makes any sence.
It is hard to find a school yard to fly in and there isn't a flying field close to me. I normally try to keep my planes under a 48" wing span. Closer to 36" I like better.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Handi</p>

A nose heavy plane flys "heavier" than it really is. Once you set the CG where it belongs and set the controls for no more deflection than what is needed for normal flight you might find that the plane handles slow speed much better.

Obviously, wing loading is the most important factor for slow speed capability. It's easier to expand wing area in exchange for very little weight penalty than rely on gimmicks like mechanical flaps, wingtip plates, etc.
Your selection of onboard equipment can make a big difference in RTF weight. Think of those stick on chunks of lead that they sell to balance models as little, "Badges of Shame".
There's a big difference in weight handling ability with similarly equipped models if you compare a typical 3 foot span wing to a 4 footer. If you know what the model's true projected weight and wingloading are going to be, then you base your decisions on that. Find honest product reviews that you can trust. Avoid reviews that are done by guys who are "Shills", "Ringers", or "Sock Puppets", etc. for the hobby industry. Seek out reviews by guys who have no commercial interest in the products in question...like guys who spend time at these forums.

The spitfire gains speed fairly quickly when the nose is dropped. If you have it set up so that the prop stops when the throttle is off, you might try setting it up to allow the prop to freewheel when you close the throttle. This increases drag allowing a steeper descent without gaining excessive airspeed.

The T-28 is a slower flying plane, you might want to check that one out.

The plane is a little nose heavy. It balances about 1/4" forward of the manuals suggestion. I thought I would try it like that first. I had to add 160 grains in the tail to get it there. So I will add a little more and take some small weight to add at the field. Thanks for those suggestions combatpigg.
cfircav8r- it has more drag with the free wheeling? I would think with the prop stopped it would cause more drag. But the prop seemed to be slowly spinning but when it is on the ground I must give it about 10-15% throttle to start the prop. So I did expect the prop to be stopped. There isn't any brake in the speed controller.

Instead of adding MORE weight, it would serve your interests to figure out how to shift weight that the plane has to carry [to be functional] to the rear...then ditch the dead weight you are using for ballast altogether..
The options are pretty limited with some planes, but if there's a will, there's a way.

Lots of things contribute to good slow flying characteristics, but 90% of it is wing loading, airfoil, and frontal area. Good slow planes would include Cubs, trainers, and sticks. In particular, the GWS slowstick will fly at practically a walking pace.

The GWS slowstick is much slower than I am looking to go to. I will need something that I can fly in a little wind.
I don't want to slow down much more than the Spitfire. I was a little surprised that it didn't slow more with zero throttle.
So I want to keep that in mind when i buy my next plane.
Here is a question, 3D planes have a lot of wing area, would that be a air frame to look at the next time I go to purchase a plane?
I have a little cordination to fly. But a quick back ground. I have raced cars, trucks and 4wd since the late 80's and I look to flying as a relaxing hobby.
I am done with racing vechicles and I want to fly but I want it to be relaxing and not stressful. I haven't flown since the spring or early summer and this being the first flight in that time the plane was a little more than I wanted. Now that being said after I am back to flying once every other week this plane will be fine but I expect I will want to get a plane that is a little less in speed. I will more than likely get something that is faster to fly when I need it.
I apperciate all the feedback as flying is still new to me and I find it very enjoyable and I want to know more.
Thanks

Handiman   <div>Try setting up wind on a simulator. If you do not own one, find a hobby Shop that has one. than try a hand full of planes. And test drive. </div><div>This may give you a idea of what you need.</div>

One of the easiest planes to fly is a 3D plane set with conservative throws. The first one I tried was bought from Morris Hobbies I guess about 20 years ago..it is called the SuDoKoi and is powered by a Rossi .45. Capable of very slow landings and a flight envelope that you could spend hundreds of hours exploring. Since this plane came out, there has been an entire Universe of great 3D designs made available.
For beginners, seek out "profile" type planes.
If you are past the point of needing a plane with self correcting traits and just need a plane that is highly forgiving [stall proof].....then a 3D plane is a great way to go.

Combatpig, I just started flying the Morris Hobbies SuDoKoi... maidened last weekend.... my 1st glow powered 3D plane..
Just starting to explore its flight capabilities....


small world....

steve

Steve, hope you enjoy your's as much as I do mine. Mine has hundreds of flights on it...it has needed 2 covering jobs, has worn out a few servos and the original Rossi .45 was rebuilt after 100's of hours of hovering and nothing but rough use.
My only criticism of the plane is it turned out heavier than the best .45 sized 3D planes do, but it has proven to be a rugged 3D trainer.
There is a lot of wisdom in this design for building light that you won't see in your typical sport flyer kits....but there are still lighter kits available that I haven't been exposed to yet.
So, if you are interested in learning how to build light, a 3D kit will be a valuable teaching aid as well as a great way to go for a sport flyer.