How do I fuel-proof decals?
#1
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From: Jackson,
OH
My current plane is loosing it's decals on it's right side (exhaust side). It appears that the fuel gets under the decal and releases the adhesive that holds the decal on the plane. What can I use to cover or seal the decals to prevent the fuel from penetrating to the adhesive? Would it be a good idea to spray the fuselage with a clear polyurethane? Would the fuel react with the polyurethane and cause it to become discolored?
I am building a new plane and would appreciate some ideas or suggestions.
Mike Burgett
[link=http://users.adelphia.net/~mburgett/rcaces/index.htm]RC FLYING ACES[/link]
I am building a new plane and would appreciate some ideas or suggestions.
Mike Burgett
[link=http://users.adelphia.net/~mburgett/rcaces/index.htm]RC FLYING ACES[/link]
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From: chatsworth,
CA
pactra i think makes some fuel proof paint for models. i think they make it in clear, but i am not sure. if they do, spray it on and let it sit for a week beforey you try to use it
#3

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Probably nothing you can do about the existing decals, doubt you get the surface of the covering or the underside of the decal clean enough to re-adhere it.
On the new one, you could either use a fuel proof clear coat, like LusterCote, or try carefully going around the edge of the decal with thin CA. I've done the CA thing once or twice and it works okay, but not great.
Dennis-
On the new one, you could either use a fuel proof clear coat, like LusterCote, or try carefully going around the edge of the decal with thin CA. I've done the CA thing once or twice and it works okay, but not great.
Dennis-
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From: hollywood, MD
Mike, I've had some success with RC 56 canopy glue on old stuff after cleaning with alcohol as best I could. I've heard sealing the edges of new decals with clear nail polish is effective but that's got to be tedious. And I'm not sure how that looks either.
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From: Calabash, NC
Hi Ogriv,
I think every modeler has experienced this dilemma. Recently, I came up with the idea of cutting out a piece of Ultracoat Clear just big enough to cover the decal. Then I used isopropyl alcohol to really clean the area over and around where I was going to put it. This is especially important with trim or decals that comes to a point like stars because they all eventually lift, mostly due to wiping the plane down after flying. Then apply moderate heat and iron it right over your trim or decals. Avoid using too much heat or it could distort the decal underneath. Also avoid cutting the clear covering where you would have points. The rounder the better. I just did this with my U Can Do and so far it is working great. Even if the clear covering does start to lift, you can replace it without losing the original decal/trim. If you really want to get "anal" about it, you can get automotive clear coating and spray the entire plane. I have also done this and I can guarantee nothing will ever come off. Good luck
I think every modeler has experienced this dilemma. Recently, I came up with the idea of cutting out a piece of Ultracoat Clear just big enough to cover the decal. Then I used isopropyl alcohol to really clean the area over and around where I was going to put it. This is especially important with trim or decals that comes to a point like stars because they all eventually lift, mostly due to wiping the plane down after flying. Then apply moderate heat and iron it right over your trim or decals. Avoid using too much heat or it could distort the decal underneath. Also avoid cutting the clear covering where you would have points. The rounder the better. I just did this with my U Can Do and so far it is working great. Even if the clear covering does start to lift, you can replace it without losing the original decal/trim. If you really want to get "anal" about it, you can get automotive clear coating and spray the entire plane. I have also done this and I can guarantee nothing will ever come off. Good luck
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From: Appleton, WI
I have had good luck with fresh applications by first sealing the decal to the sheet with a good fuel proof paint. Then after it is completly dry, 24hrs, cut it to the shape you want and slide it to the CLEAN surface. Then seal it again with more clear fuel proof paint. Let the hole job cure for 24 hours. Take your time and things should be good.
I have even been able to apply decals to old surfaces by cleaning the covering with acetone, then alcohol. And then follow the above directions. I have been using my own inkjet printed waterslide decals with reasonable sucess.
Good luck,
Al
I have even been able to apply decals to old surfaces by cleaning the covering with acetone, then alcohol. And then follow the above directions. I have been using my own inkjet printed waterslide decals with reasonable sucess.
Good luck,
Al
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From: Murrysville,
PA
Hi all,
I've heard of spraying a clear coat over decals on a new model to fuel proof them but never tried it myself. Sounds like it should work well. How do you prepare the surface of the Monokote before applying the clear coat? Is cleaning it with acetone or alcohol sufficient or do you need to worry about roughing up the surface first?
Jason
I've heard of spraying a clear coat over decals on a new model to fuel proof them but never tried it myself. Sounds like it should work well. How do you prepare the surface of the Monokote before applying the clear coat? Is cleaning it with acetone or alcohol sufficient or do you need to worry about roughing up the surface first?
Jason
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From: Charlotte,
NC
well, I am having the same problem with the exaust side decals coming off. I really don't want the decals on my Superstar on that side, so how CAN I JUST TAKE THEM OFF?? I have tried just peeling them off, but those little suckers are tough.............some tind of debonder or something......................................... .



