When do you install the motor?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Being a college student on a limited budget, I am unable to buy all the components for my LT-40 right away. My plan is to start assembling the kit, then later down the road, the servos, then the motor, etc. This way, I can use a little chunk of each paycheck to buy the parts instead of doing it all now.
Can I assemble the kit now, then add the other parts later on, when the kit is almost completed? Or will I need to purchase the motor and servos during the construction process? I know the LT-40 comes in an ARF format...wait...so maybe I just answered my own question....
Since I typed it out already, any input?
Bryan
Can I assemble the kit now, then add the other parts later on, when the kit is almost completed? Or will I need to purchase the motor and servos during the construction process? I know the LT-40 comes in an ARF format...wait...so maybe I just answered my own question....
Since I typed it out already, any input?
Bryan
#3
Banned
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,923
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: gone,
when spltting the costs up... recommend gettig the RADIO first.
You can build some "entertaining" things that fly using anything from old refrigerator boxes to coroplast signboard. You can get a $5 foam glider from Wal-Mart or other discount toy places (sometimes theya re in the grocery store too...) and add controls for a decent 2 channel glider.
Then get the engine... and go with the "SPAD" type trainer. this is a model made of coroplast signboard and PVC downspout. (you even cut the control horns from the downspout material) Bicycle spokes from a scrapped wheel or coathangers to get wire for pushrods. You can even cut the wheels from coro signboard... so what if you have to replace the wheels every 4 or 5 flights? They're virtually free.
These tend to be a bit ugly... but you can make some beautiful coroplast models with research into the needed techniques.
Coroplast can be free... from the local "quickee-mart" old advertising signs fly well.
www.spadtothebone.com
THEN get the more fragile wood construction aircraft. The wood planes do tend to be lighter than the SPADs and thus fly a bit better. (but Ihave made some very light, high performance, SPAD's...)
*********
The purpose of this method... get in the air faster on a budget without buying JUNK. If you have the money to buy the ARF package deal... that is probably the best way to start now.
You can build some "entertaining" things that fly using anything from old refrigerator boxes to coroplast signboard. You can get a $5 foam glider from Wal-Mart or other discount toy places (sometimes theya re in the grocery store too...) and add controls for a decent 2 channel glider.
Then get the engine... and go with the "SPAD" type trainer. this is a model made of coroplast signboard and PVC downspout. (you even cut the control horns from the downspout material) Bicycle spokes from a scrapped wheel or coathangers to get wire for pushrods. You can even cut the wheels from coro signboard... so what if you have to replace the wheels every 4 or 5 flights? They're virtually free.
These tend to be a bit ugly... but you can make some beautiful coroplast models with research into the needed techniques.Coroplast can be free... from the local "quickee-mart" old advertising signs fly well.

www.spadtothebone.com
THEN get the more fragile wood construction aircraft. The wood planes do tend to be lighter than the SPADs and thus fly a bit better. (but Ihave made some very light, high performance, SPAD's...)
*********
The purpose of this method... get in the air faster on a budget without buying JUNK. If you have the money to buy the ARF package deal... that is probably the best way to start now.
#4
The servos, fuel tank, servos, and then the engine are usually the last things to go on the plane. Then the prop, spinner, receiver, and battery pack need to be installed so you can check the cg. Make sure the fuel tank is empty.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Cedar Rapids,
IA
You can start a kit right away, and next I would get the engine as sometimes you need that when setting up the firewall. The radio gear can be installed last either just before or after covering the plane. Installing the radio gear prior to covering allows you to get a rough idea of balance and make adjustments before sealing off parts of the plane with the covering. However, after the plane is finished, you will need to balance again as the covering does add some weight.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Lake County,
CA
Bryris,
I would wait until you have everything before starting construction.
The instructions always tell you to build the plane and then install all of the gear.
I strongly disagree with this sequence!!!
In trying to get your motor and servos mounted you are constantly moving the fuselage around. If the tail feathers are attached you have a high risk of damaging them! The risk is higher with a low wing since you have the fuse upside down on the bench, resting on the vertical stabilizer.
Yes, there are tricks and devices to help minimize the risk - why take it if you don't have to?
Good luck on the build!!!
KW_Counter
I would wait until you have everything before starting construction.
The instructions always tell you to build the plane and then install all of the gear.
I strongly disagree with this sequence!!!
In trying to get your motor and servos mounted you are constantly moving the fuselage around. If the tail feathers are attached you have a high risk of damaging them! The risk is higher with a low wing since you have the fuse upside down on the bench, resting on the vertical stabilizer.
Yes, there are tricks and devices to help minimize the risk - why take it if you don't have to?
Good luck on the build!!!
KW_Counter
#9
Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: right \'round here someplace
ORIGINAL: bryris
Since I typed it out already, any input?
Bryan
Since I typed it out already, any input?
Bryan
give the Hobbico Avistar select some consideration. It comes pretty much ready to fly...giving you more time to fly and is priced right IMO. The Avistar is a great trainer with a semi-symmetrical wing and will do more advanced flying as you progress. It seems from what I have observed that those that start with an Avistar fly it longer, since they do not get bored as fast with it and progress faster to the more advanced aircraft.
By the criteria I use the best trainer to date ever offered but of course there are others and their criteria
#10
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: bryris
Being a college student on a limited budget, I am unable to buy all the components for my LT-40 right away. My plan is to start assembling the kit, then later down the road, the servos, then the motor, etc. This way, I can use a little chunk of each paycheck to buy the parts instead of doing it all now.
Can I assemble the kit now, then add the other parts later on, when the kit is almost completed? Or will I need to purchase the motor and servos during the construction process? I know the LT-40 comes in an ARF format...wait...so maybe I just answered my own question....
Since I typed it out already, any input?
Bryan
Being a college student on a limited budget, I am unable to buy all the components for my LT-40 right away. My plan is to start assembling the kit, then later down the road, the servos, then the motor, etc. This way, I can use a little chunk of each paycheck to buy the parts instead of doing it all now.
Can I assemble the kit now, then add the other parts later on, when the kit is almost completed? Or will I need to purchase the motor and servos during the construction process? I know the LT-40 comes in an ARF format...wait...so maybe I just answered my own question....
Since I typed it out already, any input?
Bryan
The radio or the engine...An ARF......Hmmmm..... If you have to drill holes in the firewall to fasten the motor mount, I would say get the engine first. Many times access to the rear of the firewall for installation of the blind nuts is limited and you may need to adjust the width of the motor mount (depending on type of mount). If you don't have to drill any holes for the motor mount, the choice is up to you. If you get the engine first you can break it in. If you get the radio first you can read up on the instructions.
A suggestion: Get a computer radio, preferably a 6 channel. I know they are a little more than the 4 channel ones and you might say "I don't need all those fancy things", but you will grow into the radio. One BIG plus to a computer radio is that they have multiple model capability. You can store the settings for several different models instead of having to "retrim" every time you grab a different plane. I have a Futaba 6XAS. I wish I had bought that initially. 8 months after I started flying I went out and bought it - I could have saved over $200 by spending an additional $50 to begin with.
Just my $0.02 worth
#11
Most of what has been said is right on point. In my opinion, it depends on whether you are dealing with a kit or an ARF. On ARF's, the construction does not take very long, so you need the parts in pretty fast succession. In a kit, you can start building the wings before you build the fuse if it's possible. Then, the engine, then the servos. And it does also depend on your building speed as well. I am a slow builder and on my Somethin Extra, I had the kit as a gift, first thing got the engine, then later bought the flight pack/receiver. By the time I was finished, I had it all. Only thing to remember is if you start the fuse first, one of the steps will probably be installing the engine mount and setting in the blind nuts. You really need the engine for that.
#12

My Feedback: (3)
Campy,
Good advice. I'm building my first kit and having the servos, motor, and fuel tank is making it much easier to build right. I can get the full picture of the construction as I go along. I would have made some mistakes if I had not had the motor here. I'm putting a FS 56 Saito on a Sig Kavalier, and there are some issues with the motor being rather large for the cowling. I'm having to move the fuel tank some and maybe do some firewall cutting for the throttle linkage.
The only thing that I would add is to try and get the Futaba 7C over the 6XAS. The 6AXS is a fine radio, don't get me wrong. I think that is the radio of choice at my club. I read where the 7C is thought to be the successor to the 6XAS. The 7C has digital trims and stores 10 planes. Also, the 7C is far easier to program. I've seen my instructor program the 6XAS's we use, and the 7C is easier and more intuitive to set up, change rates, etc. If you only have the $$$ for the 6AXS, then don't worry. It is a great system.
Good luck and have fun putting your plane together.
Good advice. I'm building my first kit and having the servos, motor, and fuel tank is making it much easier to build right. I can get the full picture of the construction as I go along. I would have made some mistakes if I had not had the motor here. I'm putting a FS 56 Saito on a Sig Kavalier, and there are some issues with the motor being rather large for the cowling. I'm having to move the fuel tank some and maybe do some firewall cutting for the throttle linkage.
The only thing that I would add is to try and get the Futaba 7C over the 6XAS. The 6AXS is a fine radio, don't get me wrong. I think that is the radio of choice at my club. I read where the 7C is thought to be the successor to the 6XAS. The 7C has digital trims and stores 10 planes. Also, the 7C is far easier to program. I've seen my instructor program the 6XAS's we use, and the 7C is easier and more intuitive to set up, change rates, etc. If you only have the $$$ for the 6AXS, then don't worry. It is a great system.
Good luck and have fun putting your plane together.





