Tips/Tricks for installing pushrods??
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Johns Creek,
GA
Umm...Building my first Plane
The might Kadet LT-40 ARF... really excited...
question.... are there any tricks to get the pushrod z-bend into the servo without breaking anything??
I'm having a heck of a time
the servo is installed...should I unscrew it, insert the pushrod and then reinstall the servo??
also
I have Futaba S3004 servos... they have a Wheel instead of an arm.....does it matter what hole I put the pushrod in as long as it is even??
Thanks in advance....
The might Kadet LT-40 ARF... really excited...
question.... are there any tricks to get the pushrod z-bend into the servo without breaking anything??
I'm having a heck of a time
the servo is installed...should I unscrew it, insert the pushrod and then reinstall the servo??
also
I have Futaba S3004 servos... they have a Wheel instead of an arm.....does it matter what hole I put the pushrod in as long as it is even??
Thanks in advance....
#2
ORIGINAL: exeter_acres
Umm...Building my first Plane
The might Kadet LT-40 ARF... really excited...
question.... are there any tricks to get the pushrod z-bend into the servo without breaking anything??
I'm having a heck of a time
the servo is installed...should I unscrew it, insert the pushrod and then reinstall the servo??
also
I have Futaba S3004 servos... they have a Wheel instead of an arm.....does it matter what hole I put the pushrod in as long as it is even??
Thanks in advance....
Umm...Building my first Plane
The might Kadet LT-40 ARF... really excited...
question.... are there any tricks to get the pushrod z-bend into the servo without breaking anything??
I'm having a heck of a time
the servo is installed...should I unscrew it, insert the pushrod and then reinstall the servo??
also
I have Futaba S3004 servos... they have a Wheel instead of an arm.....does it matter what hole I put the pushrod in as long as it is even??
Thanks in advance....
Remove the wheel from the servo to install the Z bend. (The wheel is held on with a small phillips head screw) Ensure that the servo is set to mid travel and reinstall the wheel with the z-bend in the mid-travel position.
Use the combination of servo wheel hole and control horn hole that gives you the control throw specified by the manufacturer I start with the middle hole in each, measure the throw, then move the z-bend into different holes (one at a time) until I get the throw I need. If you need more throw, move the z-bend toward the outside of the wheel or closer to the hinge line on the control horn. Vice versa for less throw.
HTH
Cheers!
Jim
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: West Chester,
PA
I've used Z-bends in the past but have found better/easier ways. I use either a 90 bend with an E/Z link or a clevis to attach to the servo for most applications.You can use the wheel servo but I prefer the star shaped servo arms. Moving the the pushrod further or closer to the center of the servo will change the throw and also is more work for the servo the farther from the center you get. I've still rather inexperienced in this hobby so I'm sure someone can clarify or correct my information. HTH
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Johns Creek,
GA
Thanks for the quick feedback!!
Yep.... sat and thought about for a while and I had removed the servo wheel and installed the z-bend... worked the charm...
Hmmmm
I guess the star would be more adjustable than the wheel.... any thoughts or plus/minus argument for the star vs. wheel??
Thanks again!!
Really having fun!!
Yep.... sat and thought about for a while and I had removed the servo wheel and installed the z-bend... worked the charm...
Hmmmm
I guess the star would be more adjustable than the wheel.... any thoughts or plus/minus argument for the star vs. wheel??
Thanks again!!
Really having fun!!
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: exeter_acres
Umm...Building my first Plane
The might Kadet LT-40 ARF... really excited...
question.... are there any tricks to get the pushrod z-bend into the servo without breaking anything??
>Take the screw holding the wheel/arm out of the servo and remove the
>wheel/arm. Now put the wheel/arm on the z bend. NOTE: You will in
>all probability have to enlarge the hole in the wheel/arm so the push
>rod wire will fit. Use a drill for this - you will probably need a 1/16",
>5/64" or 3/32" drill bit to get the proper size, depending on the size of
>the pushrod wire.
> At this point turn the transmitter and receiver on so the servo will
>center. Put the wheel/arm back on the servo so the z bend has
>equal movement forward and back when the servo is activated with
>the transmitter. Make any final adjustments to center the control
>surface with the clevis. (screw it in or out as needed to center the
>control surface - make sure you have AT LEAST 4 FULL THREADS
>remaining inside the clevis.)
I'm having a heck of a time
the servo is installed...should I unscrew it, insert the pushrod and then reinstall the servo??
also
I have Futaba S3004 servos... they have a Wheel instead of an arm.....does it matter what hole I put the pushrod in as long as it is even??
>Yes, it does make a difference. To reduce the amount of throw (movement )
>on a control surface move the pushrod wire in toward the center of the
>wheel/arm on the servo (use a hole closer to the screw holding the
>wheel/arm on ) and further out on the control horn attached to the control
>surface (use a hole closer to the end of the horn ). You would do the opposite
>to increase the throw. Be sure you re center the control surface afterwards.
>Some people prefer to use the wheels instead of the arm type. A lot
>will depend on your preference AND the amount of clearance you have
>available. Remember, each arm will center differently on the servo,
>just as each set of holes on a wheel will center differently (i.e. - the
>hole you want to use will be 90 degrees to the servo ) and you can
>always cut off the unused arms if needed for clearance.
Thanks in advance....
Umm...Building my first Plane
The might Kadet LT-40 ARF... really excited...
question.... are there any tricks to get the pushrod z-bend into the servo without breaking anything??
>Take the screw holding the wheel/arm out of the servo and remove the
>wheel/arm. Now put the wheel/arm on the z bend. NOTE: You will in
>all probability have to enlarge the hole in the wheel/arm so the push
>rod wire will fit. Use a drill for this - you will probably need a 1/16",
>5/64" or 3/32" drill bit to get the proper size, depending on the size of
>the pushrod wire.
> At this point turn the transmitter and receiver on so the servo will
>center. Put the wheel/arm back on the servo so the z bend has
>equal movement forward and back when the servo is activated with
>the transmitter. Make any final adjustments to center the control
>surface with the clevis. (screw it in or out as needed to center the
>control surface - make sure you have AT LEAST 4 FULL THREADS
>remaining inside the clevis.)
I'm having a heck of a time
the servo is installed...should I unscrew it, insert the pushrod and then reinstall the servo??
also
I have Futaba S3004 servos... they have a Wheel instead of an arm.....does it matter what hole I put the pushrod in as long as it is even??
>Yes, it does make a difference. To reduce the amount of throw (movement )
>on a control surface move the pushrod wire in toward the center of the
>wheel/arm on the servo (use a hole closer to the screw holding the
>wheel/arm on ) and further out on the control horn attached to the control
>surface (use a hole closer to the end of the horn ). You would do the opposite
>to increase the throw. Be sure you re center the control surface afterwards.
>Some people prefer to use the wheels instead of the arm type. A lot
>will depend on your preference AND the amount of clearance you have
>available. Remember, each arm will center differently on the servo,
>just as each set of holes on a wheel will center differently (i.e. - the
>hole you want to use will be 90 degrees to the servo ) and you can
>always cut off the unused arms if needed for clearance.
Thanks in advance....
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
Also keep in mind "Mechanical advantage" of your placement on
control horns.. On the control surface, the closer you move the
control rod towards the surface you "per say" get more travel..
but it also makes it "harder" to move that surface, and with
standard servos, you could end up with less deflection.. This
problem really won't show itself on a trainer.. But something
to keep in mind..
control horns.. On the control surface, the closer you move the
control rod towards the surface you "per say" get more travel..
but it also makes it "harder" to move that surface, and with
standard servos, you could end up with less deflection.. This
problem really won't show itself on a trainer.. But something
to keep in mind..



