Hi, I need some direction on where to buy drill bits so that I can mount my OS .46 in my Super Sportster. This has been a frustrating build...The servos screws didnt screw in flush...they cracked the wood...the monocote bubbles didnt go away with iron...just wow...so anyways i have gotten this far, and have everything in place except the throttle, and engine mounting...Does anyone have any tips or advice on this?? Where can i get drill bits to drill, and what screws...and just like i need a walk through...anyone care to help??

THANKS!!!!

P.S. im not totally stupid...not even Hobbytown USA has drill bits i can buy. they just say they dont have any and dont know where to get them from, every other store i have gone to has had a guy who "used to fly these things" but always says they dont have anything and reccomends hobby stores (dont have any drill bits or taps or whatever) ...so im just stuck...and incredibly frustrated and dont wanna end up just giving up on it all... so any help, thank you.

P.S. what size and the procedure for doing this would be great, thank you.

4-40's will work for up to a 40 size, use 6-32 for mounting a 40 to 90. as for where to get bits... Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware any other place like that should have them. The should also have tap and die sets and the like. Make sure you use T nuts on the back end. Also make sure you use locktite on the screws.

Probably a dumb question here but, why tap and thread these holes if you're just going to loctite them anyway? I was under the impression that, if you don't plan to remove the engine from the mount, self tapping screws are the way to go. On the other hand if eventually want to remove the engine, the tap and thread method is the way to go.

Hi Jason, sounds like you're learning, which is what a first model is all about, so while you want to do meticulous, detailed preparation, don't sweat the minor imperfections. All of us have learned the tricks as we go. Each model you build will turn out better than the last, you'll find your own favorite methods of doing all this stuff. For instance, you'll learn to glue some 1/16 plywood scrap to hardwood servo rails to prevent splitting. Each covering job you do will go better than the last. etc. etc.

A standard drill index from a hardware store will do all you need. They start at 1/16-inch and go up in 1/64 intervals, then 1/32 intervals above 3/16 or so.

You'll also learn that vibration can and will loosen everything! Loctite is a great way to prevent losing parts in the air, we've all seen engines fall off 100 feet up, dangling by the throttle cable! These practices seem redundant because they are. Redundancy is a great airplane saver.

For mounting a .46 to a nylon engine mount, I like to use 6-32 cap screws and nylock nuts. The cap screw are hardened and won't break off later. They're also often easier to access in the finished model, as they accept an Allen wrench. Yes, thread the engine mount, and use a long enough bolt to pass through, then add the locknut on the bottom...with Loctite
I've also flown plenty of .46's with the cap screw simply Loctited into the threaded nylon, never a problem.

best wishes!

Hey thanks a lot for that advice. Now I was wondering...do you have any techniques on installing / screwing down the servos and doing the throttle...(besides the scrap ply-wood which is a great idea, thanks) ?? for some reason im just not happy with the plane because it dosent seem to fit together well...although it feels very solid...i guess nothing is gonna work perfectly!

THANKS

Hi,

The GP SS is a great plane....... i hope this isnt your first plane............. mine went together fine it just needs some basic building skills as with all ART'Fs.......... remember to fuel proof the firewall and fuel tank bay before you install the engine...... as to screwing servo's down...... you are using the rubber grommets arnt you ???........ should be fine just dont screw them up too tight they dont need very very tight...... as if the wood is splitting it sounds like ur either not using the grommets or screwing up far too tight... as in the throttle what do you need to know ?

Pic of mines below....... althou ive now changed the landing gear onto the fuse as it didnt hold up too well on the wings

Not quite sure what you mean by "Doing the throttle" Do you need help with the cable, servo throw, or what exactly. As far as mounting I guess I am with everyone else, I have never had an issue with the supplied servo hardware. I would just recommended that you mount the servos as per the radio manufacturer's instructions.

Might I recommend that you get the plane looked at by an experienced builder in your area to check it over. I did this when I was starting out and it was well worth it.

Use a Sullivan flexible nyrod to hook up the throttle. A couple of clevises and some all thread is all you need. You put the outer casing in and epoxy it in. Then just fit the inner so you have some allthread (2-56 size by the way available from dubro at most hobby shops) in the ends to screw the clevises onto and you are done. Good luck with it.

Mark Shuman

If your mounting engine to mount, I never use self threading screws. You invite disaster that way. I use screws and nylon nuts and
lock washers. Never had one get loose yet. I also use this setup to mount the engine mount to the firewall. I don't believe in blind nuts.

Dave...

You know what they say...

"Use Loc-Tite, or your nuts will fall off!"

I always PRE DRILL the holes for the servo mounting screws with a 1/16" or 1/32" drill bit. Physically check the drill bit against the screw for size. You want the bit to be the same size, or slightly smaller, than the shank of the screw. The shank is the metal part MINUS the threads. This will keep the servo rails from splitting. I then harden the holes with A SMALL DROP of thin CA.

For blind nuts (T nuts ) I match the drill bit to the part that will be inserted in the wood. I like the bit to be slightly smaller than the insert. After the blind nut is in place, I CAREFULLY put a drop or 2 of thin CA on the outside of the flange. Be careful not to get it the threads.

There have been several good ways to do the throttle cable described here by other members. Just remember, If you use a metal rod use nylon clevises on BOTH ENDS. If you use nyrod, either metal or nylon clevises are OK. The reason for this is the metal to metal contact frequently generates rf which may transfer to the servo and interfere with the receiver. The nylon rod/clevises minimize/eliminate this potential problem.

What do u mean by putting lochite on the screws. I am learning too. Where all do u put it on the plane, so the vibrations do not loosen stuff in mid air??
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Flyn' High, Real High

Loc-tite is a liquid brush-on. There are different types (colors). Get the version that is not a permanent attachment (I believe it is blue). You want to put loc-tite on all the screws that you worry about vibrating loose. Like the screws that hold the motor mount to the firewall. Don't use it on the servo screws though. If your landing gear use machine screws, put it on them also.

For attaching the servo, you want to predrill the holes. I use a pin vise that I picked up at the hobby shop. A pin vise is just a handheld drill for really small drill bits. The drill bit clamps in the end, then you drill it by hand. The hole does not need to be that big. I usually use the smallest drill bit that came with the pin vise. The predrilling just helps the servo screws to start in the wood without "walking".

Don't use loctite in plastic mounts. The bottle specifically states that loctite can melt plastic.

Buy a tap and drill set from Sears or someplace. Get a set that has sizes from 4-40 to 1/4-20. It comes with the right bits and a tap handle.

Engine Mounting