ROD HELP
#1
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From: , NJ
Hey everyone, Well i'm up to the radio installation and ran into trouble. I have these 4 10inch rods that are suppose to control the rudder and elevator. The instructions tell me to use these rods for the rudder and elevator. How in the world will these rods reach from the servo's to the rudder and elevator? PLEASE HELP Here are pix.

#2

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They won't. Those rods are ends for balsa or hardwood pushrods. Looks to me like you're set up to run pushrods through guides directly to the control surfaces, so you should have gotten two very long rods, threaded on one end and smooth on the other. I'm suprised, being as you have a Sig airplane, that they weren't included. You could go to your Local Hobby Shop and get a pair of 36" long rods, threaded 2-56 on the end. They go directly from the servo to the control surface through the guides (the white plastic tubes). You'll have to cut them to the exact length you need, 36" is probablly way too much but better to have them too long. Or you could try to contact Sig and tell them you have missing parts, and they'll probablly send them to you.
I feel your pain as far as the missing parts..... but it happens.
Andy
I feel your pain as far as the missing parts..... but it happens.
Andy
#4

If you call the SIG people I'm sure they will be able to figure out/explain the situation. Their phone number should be in the instructions. Something definitely looks wrong. Was this a kit or ARF? Looks like ARF. Carefully re-read instructions and see if you have missed something. Doesn't look like a "dowel" type installation to me either, just a long wire. Could use 90 bend with quick link at servo or (and many don't like these but I do) ez connector after purchasing 36" wire rod a LHS. If you get rod at LHS you may also need new clevis if EXISTING clevis are metric. Was kit made in USA or Asia/China where metric stuff is used? Make sure parts are compatible and hook em up. You can still fly this weekend. Charge batteries.
Bruce
Bruce
#5
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You should have two thin plastic tubes. One rod goes into one end of each tube. The tubes are treaded through the larger tubes that are already inside the fuse, and attached to the servos. The inner tubes are then cut to length and rods inserted into the other end for connection to the control surface
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From: , NJ
Hey, Yes there were 2 thin plastic tubes that I left out, MinnFlyer post on top was how they wanted me to do it Thank you guys! It just dident make sence, as a beginner i was looking for a long rod like the throttle method. Should I go with this method or get a long rod?
#9
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From: Tacoma,
WA
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
You should have two thin plastic tubes. One rod goes into one end of each tube. The tubes are treaded through the larger tubes that are already inside the fuse, and attached to the servos. The inner tubes are then cut to length and rods inserted into the other end for connection to the control surface
You should have two thin plastic tubes. One rod goes into one end of each tube. The tubes are treaded through the larger tubes that are already inside the fuse, and attached to the servos. The inner tubes are then cut to length and rods inserted into the other end for connection to the control surface
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From: Tacoma,
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ORIGINAL: bruce88123
Step 193? Are those KIT or ARF instructions you are referring to? Pretty sure you wouldn't have 193 steps in an ARF which I believe he has.
Bruce [sm=confused.gif]
Step 193? Are those KIT or ARF instructions you are referring to? Pretty sure you wouldn't have 193 steps in an ARF which I believe he has.
Bruce [sm=confused.gif]
Ya, after looking again at the pictures, he may have the ARF version. It looks like to wing is held down with bolts not bands, but the main gear is of the wire variety. I thought that the ARF had bolts and the aluminum spring gear? If it is the ARF, the page and step numbers will definitely be different. Bob
#13
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On plenty of recommedations, I decided to scrap the stock pushrods and get sullivan gold-n-rods instead. Apparently, the LT-40 has an elevator flutter problem from time to time.
However, since you have an ARF and a kit.....perhaps you should stick with the stock on the ARF and try the sullivan rods on the Kit. Maybe, you'll see a difference.
However, since you have an ARF and a kit.....perhaps you should stick with the stock on the ARF and try the sullivan rods on the Kit. Maybe, you'll see a difference.



